DROPS / 169 / 33

Sweet Mint by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jumper with lace pattern and round yoke in ”Safran”. The piece is worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no e-240
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
500-550-600-650-700-750 g color no 50, ice blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 21 dc x 12 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 2.35 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 2.35 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. A.2 shows how round beg and ends when working A.1.

CROCHET INFO:
Beg every round with dc with 3 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round (does not replace first dc).
Beg every round with sc with 1 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in 1st ch at beg of round (does not replace first sc).
2nd and 5th round in A.3 begins with 3 chain stitches, finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in same st.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Work until 2 dc/ch remain before marker, work 2 dc in/around next dc/ch (= 1 dc inc), work 1 dc in/around each of the next 2 dc/ch, markers is in the middle of these dc/ch, work 2 dc in/around next dc/ch (= 1 dc inc). Repeat inc at every marker.

PATTERN-1 (applies to body):
Work 1 dc in every dc until 6-8-10-10-10-10 round with dc have been worked in total, * work A.3. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, work 6-8-10-10-10-10 rounds with 1 dc in every dc *, repeat pattern from *-* until finished measurements.

PATTERN-2 (applies to sleeves):
* Work A.3 over all dc. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue as follows: Work 6-8-10-10-10-10 rounds with 1 dc in every dc *, repeat from *-* until finished measurements.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 dc by working the next 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
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YOKE:
The piece is worked top down. Worked from mid back. Work 145-145-154-154-162-162 ch on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Safran and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Work next round as follows: Work 3 ch (= 1 dc) - READ CROCHET INFO, 1 dc in each of the next 5-5-0-0-1-1 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 126-126-133-133-140-140 dc. Repeat A.1 18-18-19-19-20-20 times in total in width. A.2 shows how every round in A.1 beg and ends. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! On last round in A.1 insert 8 markers and work and inc as follows: AT THE SAME TIME inc in addition 0-2-2-8-2-2 dc evenly on the entire round – READ INCREASE TIP-1: Work 29-29-31-31-33-33 dc, insert 1 marker in piece, work 4 dc and inc 2-4-4-4-4-4 dc evenly (= half back piece), insert 1 marker, work 42-42-44-44-46-46 dc, insert 1 marker, work 4 dc and inc 2-4-4-4-4-4 dc evenly, insert 1 marker (= sleeve), work 58-58-62-62-66-66 dc, insert 1 marker, work 4 dc and inc 1-4-4-4-4-4 dc evenly, insert 1 marker (= front piece), work 42-42-44-44-46-46 dc, insert 1 marker, work 4 dc and inc 1-4-4-4-4-4 dc evenly, insert 1 marker (= sleeve), work 29-29-31-31-33-33 dc (= half back piece) = 222-234-246-252-258-258 dc on round. Piece measures approx. 9 cm / 3½''.

Work 0-0-0-0-2-2 rounds with 1 dc in every dc and inc 0-0-0-0-12-15 dc evenly on every round (= 0-0-0-0-24-30 dc in total) = 222-234-246-252-282-288 dc. Move the markers upwards when working. Repeat A.3 37-39-41-42-47-48 times in total in width. On 2nd round (i.e. dc round) inc at every marker – READ INCREASE TIP-2 and inc 2-8-8-8-8-8 dc evenly on round (= 2 dc in at every marker and 2-8-8-8-8-8 dc inc evenly = 18-24-24-24-24-24 dc inc in total on round) = 240-258-270-276-306-312 dc. Now repeat A.3 40-43-45-46-51-52 times in width. Repeat inc (i.e. 2 dc inc at every marker and 2-8-8-8-8-8 dc inc evenly = 18-24-24-24-24-24 dc inc in total on round) on last round in A.3 = 258-282-294-300-330-336 dc. * Work 1 round with 1 dc in every dc. Work 1 round with dc and inc 18-18-16-17-24-26 dc evenly *, repeat from *-* 1-1-2-3-2-3 times in total = 276-300-326-351-378-414 dc. Work 0-1-1-0-1-0 rounds with 1 dc in every dc. Piece measures approx. 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm / 6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''. On next round work as follows: Work 1 dc in each of the first 39-43-47-51-57-64 dc (= half back piece), work 8 ch, skip 60-64-69-73-75-79 dc from previous round (= sleeve), 1 dc in each of the next 78-86-94-103-114-128 dc (= front piece), 8 ch, skip 60-64-69-73-75-79 dc from previous round (= sleeve), 1 dc in each of the last 39-43-47-51-57-64 dc (= half back piece) = 172-188-204-221-244-272 dc/ch on round.

Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Work 1 round with 1 dc in every dc/ch. On next round, dec 4-2-0-5-4-2 dc evenly - READ DECREASE TIP = 168-186-204-216-240-270 dc.

Then work PATTERN-1 – see explanation above. When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'', adjust so that next round is a round with dc, dec 6-12-12-6-6-6 dc evenly = 162-174-192-210-234-264 dc. Continue with pattern as before. When piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm / 7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½'' – adjust so that next round is a round with dc, inc 12 dc evenly. Repeat inc every 3 cm / 1'' 5-5-5-5-6-6 more times = 234-246-264-282-318-348 dc. Work pattern as before until piece measures 44-45-46-47-48-49 cm / 17 1/4''-17 3/4''-18''-18½''-19''-19 1/4'' from marker. Fasten off.

SLEEVE:
Sleeve is worked in the round, top down. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 sc in 5th ch of the 8 ch work in armhole on body, 3 ch (= 1 dc), work 1 dc in each of the next ch 3, work 1 dc in every dc over sleeve, work 1 dc in each of the remaining 4 ch under sleeve = 68-72-77-81-83-87 dc. Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Leave marker in piece, move marker thread when working.

SIZE S-M:
Work 1 dc in every dc and dec 2-0 dc evenly = 66-72 dc.

SIZE L-XL-XXL-XXXL:
Work 1 dc in every dc and inc 1-3-1-3 dc evenly = 78-84-84-90 dc.

ALL SIZES:
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! WORK PATTERN AND DEC AT THE SAME TIME:
PATTERN:
Work 1 dc in every dc until 5-7-9-9-9-9 round with dc have been worked in total.
Work PATTERN-2 - see explanation above.
DECREASE:
When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', adjust so that next round is 1 round with dc, dec 6 dc evenly, repeat dec every 15-10-8-8-8-6 cm / 6"-4"-3"-3"-3"-2½" 2-3-4-4-4-5 more times = 48-48-48-54-54-54 dc. Fasten off when sleeve measures 46-45-45-44-44-43 cm / 18"-17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17". Work the other sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Worked back and forth from mid back. Work in ch where the dc were worked (i.e. do not work over the ch skipped = 126-126-133-133-140-140 dc). Work 1 sc in each of the first 16-16-18-18-20-20 dc, * 1 hdc in each of the next ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next ch 3, 1 tr in each of the next 19 ch, 1 dc in each of the next ch 3, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 ch *, 1 sc in each of the next 32-32-35-35-38-38 ch, repeat from *-* 1 time, 1 sc in each of the last 16-16-18-18-20-20 ch. Work next round as follows: Work 1 sc in each of the first 20-20-22-22-24-24 sts, ** 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, * work the next 2 tr tog *, repeat from *-* 5 more times, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts **, 1 sc in each of the next 38-38-41-41-44-44 sts, repeat from **-** 1 more time, finish with 1 sc in each of the last 20-20-22-22-24-24 sts = 114-114-121-121-128-128 sts. Work 1 round with 1 sc in every st. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 16.05.2017
Added more text under CROCHET INFO: 2nd and 5th round in A.3 begins with 3 chain stitches, finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= ch
= sc in st
= sc around ch-space
= dc in st
= dc around ch-space
= Bobble: Work ch 3, 1 dc around ch-ring, ch 3, 1 sl st around same ch-ring.
= work ch 6, 1 sl st in 4th ch from hook, turn ch-ring (i.e. continue to work in the same direction), then continue to work bobble.
= work 1 dc in dc but wait with last pull through, work 1 dc in the same dc, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook
= work 1 dc around ch-space but wait with last pull through, work 1 dc around same ch-space, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook
= inc round - see explanation in pattern
= first round is not worked, it has already been worked, it only shows how next round should be worked in dc
= sl st


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 169-33) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

Dee 26.07.2019 - 13:51:

I have not tried this pattern and I don’t think I will. The pattern around the neck looks like a bunch of evil clowns. I would never be able to not see them lol.

Laura Rossi 04.06.2019 - 12:21:

Ho eseguito lo sprone per la taglia xxl con uncinetto 3.5 mm e alla fine era lungo 30cm circa. Ho disfatto tutto e ricominciato con uncinetto 3 mm e taglia xl alla fine era di 27cm. In entrambi i casi molto piu' lungo di 20/22 cm. cosa sbaglio? nella foto noto un solo giro di A3 mentre nelle istruzioni dice di ripetere A3 una seconda volta. Porto una taglia 52/54. Sono bloccata attendo sollecita risposta.

DROPS Design 04.06.2019 kl. 12:45:

Buongiorno Laura. Provi a verificare che il suo lavoro misuri 9 cm, nel punto in cui è indicato, quindi prima del diagramma A.3, per essere sicuri che la tensione in verticale sia corretta. Il diagramma A.3 viene lavorato 1 sola volta, come nella fotografia. Alterna poi alcuni giri a maglie alte con il diagramma A.3, fino alla fine del lavoro. Buon lavoro!

Jean Claude 12.11.2018 - 14:16:

J'aimerais savoir que veut dire ces chiffre dans le patron. 1 B dans chacune des (5-5-0-0-1-1) ml suivantes, *sauter 1 ml, 1 B dans chacune des 6 ml suivantes*, répéter de *-* Ceux qui sont en parathèse. Merci de votre réponse.

DROPS Design 12.11.2018 kl. 14:54:

Bonjour Jen Claude, les chiffres entre parantheses se referent aux tailles respectives, donc vous devez choisir un seul chiffre: p.ex. dans la taille S vous choississez 5 ml suivantes (le premier chiffre entre parantheses). Bon travail!

Els Van Den Brink 25.08.2017 - 21:16:

Ik heb deze trui gehaakt maar nu lopen de naden van de mouwen en achter helemaal schuin naar beneden . Wat heb ik verkeerd gedaan?

DROPS Design 28.08.2017 kl. 12:35:

Hallo Els, De trui wordt uit een stuk gehaakt en er zitten daardoor geen naden achter of in de mouw. Kun je aangeven wat je precies bedoelt met die naden? Of loopt het patroon op een of andere manier schuin?

Anna De La Motte 24.01.2017 - 12:06:

Hej Jag skall virka sista omgången på a1 och här skall jag öka och sättas markör men jag får det inte och stämma det står att det ska ökas jämt fördelat men också som man ska göra det när man har virkat 4s efter markören som jag har satt efter 29 st. Jag undrar hur jag ska göra?

DROPS Design 26.01.2017 kl. 11:50:

Hej Anna. Du skal göre bogstaveligt som der staar. Nu ved jeg ikke hvilken str du laver, men f.eks. str M, saa haekler du: 29 st, sett 1 merke, hekle 4 st og ök 4 st jaevnt fordelt (dvs, 2 i hver st), saa du har her heklet 4 st, men du har 8 st efter sidste m, saa saetter du et merke til, saa hekler du 42 st og jeg ville her öke de 2 st jaevnt fordelt. Samme som för, du har heklet 42 st men har 44 efter sidste merke, set et nyt merke. Osv.

PRAT Prat 07.12.2016 - 20:21:

Bonjour, Je commence ce beau pull mais dès le départ j'ai un problème (empiècement). Vous nous dites de monter 154 mailles et ensuite pour le tour suivant il faut faire 19 fois (taille L) le diagramme A1 donc 19 * 6 + 1 maille sauté : 133 mailles mais non 133 brides. Que faire des 21 mailles restantes. J'ai un soucis de compte là, merci beaucoup de m'aider.

DROPS Design 08.12.2016 kl. 08:48:

Bonjour Mme Prat, on monte une chaînette de 154 ml mais dès le 1er tour, on doit avoir 133 B (= 3 ml (= 1 B), *sauter 1 ml, 1 B dans chacune des 6 ml suivantes*, répéter de *-* tout le rang). Puis on peut répéter 19 fois les 7 m de A.1 = 133 B. Bon crochet!

Louise 13.10.2016 - 10:18:

Hej. Jeg skal til sidste omgang i a1 og herfra skal der tages ud og sættes mærketråde. Men kan slet ikke få det til at give mening hvornår og hvordan der skal tages ud. For der står man skal tage ud jævnt fordelt, men det bliver også skrevet som om man skal tage ud 4 gange efter hinanden? Kan i prøve at forklare det på en anden måde? Eller skrive hvor henne mærketråde skal sidde når man har taget alt ud? Håber i kan hjælpe da jeg ikke kan komme videre

DROPS Design 13.10.2016 kl. 12:22:

Hej Louise. Du tager ud som beskrevet i teksten OG samtidig med du tager de fire steder. Dvs, du tager de 2-4-4-4-4-4 st og 1-4-4-4-4-4 ud i de 4 st angivet i beskrivelsen OG du tager 0-2-2-8-2-2 st jaevnt fordelt paa omg - du tager disse ud i st andre steder paa omg, men jaevnt fordelt, saa jeg ville tage f.eks 1 paa hvert forstk (2 st i alt) eller 2 paa hvert forskt og 4 paa rygstk (8 st i alt)

Cath 31.08.2016 - 18:26:

Thank you so much. I've finally got my brain in gear with your help (and some unpicking) so I can re-do the original inserting marker row and know what I've got to do now after that regarding the increases.

Cath 30.08.2016 - 18:46:

Thank you but I'm still unclear of how to move a marker vertically when there isn't an obvious stitch above it in the next row, e.g a ch1 space or a "trebled fan". Is it done by line of sight? I still think my beginning and end markers in each set have wandered off the path. Kind regards, Cath

DROPS Design 31.08.2016 kl. 09:15:

Dear Cath, when you inc at markers, inc in the tr or in the ch before marker and in the tr or in the ch after marker (see Increase tip 2), let the marker follow (use a marking thread if it is easier to move it forwards) - This is not a real raglan yoke rather rounded yoke where you inc at markers and evenly at the same time. When dividing piece for sleeves, you will then distribute number of sts for each piece. Happy crocheting!

Cath 30.08.2016 - 14:53:

Size XXL. Before starting A3 I had correct number of stitches but because of patterning and increases I've lost my way with moving the markers correctly. When final increase round of A3 is completed which numbered stitches along the row should each of the 8 markers be in, counting from the turning chain(s)? I hope this makes sense and thanks for your help. Cath.

DROPS Design 30.08.2016 kl. 15:49:

Dear Cath, you have to inc evenly on rounds and inc at markers at the same time, ie you will have a round yoke, the number of sts between markers is not that important if they have been worked as stated (= at markers + evenly). After A.3 you should have a total of 330 sts on round. Then work some more inc round and you will have the number of sts for each piece (and a total of 378 sts). Happy crocheting!

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