Aphrodite by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS top with fans and star pattern in ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.

Keywords: fan pattern, halter neck, lace, round neck, top, top down

DROPS 162-1
DROPS design: Pattern no cl-038
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 72-80-88-98-110-122 cm / 28½"-31½"-34½"-38½"-43½"-48"
Full length: 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm / 24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾''

Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-450-500 g color no 01, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 20 dc x 10 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 1 piece

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester

from 1.40 $ /50g

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	DROPS Cotton Light uni colour	1.40 $ /50g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row/round with 3 ch. Finish a round with dc with 1 sl st in 3rd ch.

Replace first sc at beg of every sc row/round with 1 ch. Finish a round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 dc by working 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.
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TOP:
Worked in several parts. First work front piece, then 2 triangles that are put tog for back piece, then work the body downwards.

FRONT PIECE:
Work 175-194-213-237-266-295 ch on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Cotton Light. Turn and work 1 dc in fourth ch from hook (= 2 dc), * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish by skipping ch 1, 1 dc in each of the last 2-3-4-4-3-2 ch = 144-160-176-196-220-244 dc. Turn piece. Front piece is now worked back and forth over the first 72-80-88-98-110-122 dc on row. READ CROCHET INFO! Work 1 dc in every dc AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 dc in each side on every row - READ DECREASE TIP. Dec 16-18-19-21-22-24 times in total in each side = 40-44-50-56-66-74 dc, piece now measures approx. 17-19-20-22-23-25 cm / 6 3/4"-7½"-8"-8 3/4"-9"-9 3/4". Now work only over the first 10-11-13-15-19-22 dc on row (= from RS) as follows: Work 1 dc in every dc while AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 dc in each side of piece = 8-9-11-13-17-20 dc. Work 1 row more the same way = 6-7-9-11-15-18 dc. Then work 1 dc in every dc, the dec towards mid front is now done, but continue to dec 1 st in the side (towards armhole) on every row 2-3-5-7-11-14 more times = 4 dc remain on strap in all sizes. Continue with 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 40-44-48-52-56-60 cm / 15 3/4"-17 1/4"-19"-20½"-22"-23½" from ch-row. Fasten off. Repeat in the opposite side but now work over the last 10-11-13-15-19-22 dc on row. The 20-22-24-26-28-30 dc in the middle of piece not worked = neck.

BACK PIECE:
Back piece consists of two triangles that are sewn tog.
TRIANGLE 1 (top part of back): Work 33 ch on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Cotton Light. Turn and work 1 sc in second ch from hook (= 2 sc), work 1 sc in each of the next ch 3, * skip ch 1, 1 sc in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish by skipping ch 1, 1 sc in each of the last 3 ch = 28 sc. Turn and work according to A.1. Cut the yarn when triangle is done and put it aside.

TRIANGLE 2: This is worked in the same dc-row as front piece. Skip 22-26-30-35-41-47 dc (= armhole) after last dc on front piece. Work 1 sc in each of the next 28 dc, turn and work back and forth according to A.1 (22-26-30-35-41-47 dc remain on row after A.1 = armhole). When this triangle is done, sew them tog in the tip.

BODY:
Worked top down, on underside of ch-row from front and back piece. First work back and forth, then work in the round.

From RS: Beg in first ch, work 3 ch (= 1 dc), then work 1 dc in bottom edge of every dc from dc-row = 144-160-176-196-220-244 dc.
ROW 1 (WS):
Work 1 sc in every dc, AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 144-168-180-192-216-240 sc.
ROW 2 (RS): Work A.2 A (= 6 sts), work A.2 B over the next 132-156-168-180-204-228 sts, work A.2 C (= 6 sts). Work A.2 back and forth one time vertically. On last row in A.2 work 1 sl st at beg of round, now work piece in the round.

ROUND 1:
Work sl st until 1st ch-loop and now work after A.3 A: Work as follows in every ch-space: 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc + 2 ch. In every dc-group work as follows: 1 dc in second dc, ch 2, 1 dc in 4th dc, ch 2, 1 dc in 6th dc, ch 2, BUT 4-2-5-8-6-12 times evenly on round work according to A.3 B: Work as follows in every ch-space: 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc + 2 ch. In every dc-group work as follows: 1 dc in 2nd dc, ch 2, 1 dc in 3rd dc, ch 2, 1 dc in 5th dc, ch 2, 1 dc in 6th dc, 2 ch (work 4 dc in fan instead of 3) = 64-72-80-88-96-112 dc with 2 sts between every dc. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

Then work according to A.4 (8-9-10-11-12-14 repetitions in width).

Work A.4 1 time vertically, there are now 72-81-90-99-108-126 dc with 2 ch between every dc on round. Work a round with 1 dc + 2 ch in every dc, AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-3-0-3-0-0 dc evenly, inc by working 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc + 2 ch in a dc = 72-84-90-102-108-126 dc. Then work according to diagram A.5 (12-14-15-17-18-21 repetitions in width). Work diagram A.5 one time vertically. Fasten off. Piece now measures approx. 31 cm / 12 1/4'' in all sizes from ch-row in waist and 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm / 24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾'' in total.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder straps in each side on the top triangle on back piece (sew the 4 dc from shoulder strap against the 4 outermost sc in each side on triangle – NOTE! Try the top first and adjust length of straps if needed).

CROCHET EDGE:
Work an edge around the neck as follows:
ROUND 1: Ch 1, 1 sc, * ch 1, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'', 1 sc *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in ch at beg of round – make sure to work a no of sc/ch that is divisible by 4.
ROUND 2: Work ch 1, * 1 sc in first sc, ch 3, 1 sl st in same sc, work 1 sc in next ch, 1 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next ch *, repeat *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first ch on round. Fasten off.

Work as follows around the armholes (make sure not to work the edge too loose):
ARMHOLE WITHOUT VENT:
ROUND 1: Work ch 1, 1 sc, * ch 1, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'', 1 sc *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in ch at beg of round – make sure to work a no of sc/ch that is divisible by 4.
ROUND 2: 3 ch ( = 1 dc), 1 dc in next sc, * ch 2, skip 1 ch and 1 sc, 1 dc in next ch, 1 dc in next sc *, repeat from *-*, finish with 2 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 3: ch 1, work 1 sc in every dc and 2 sc in every ch-space, finish with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 4: Work ch 1, * 1 sc in first sc, ch 3, 1 sl st in same sc, work 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first ch on round. Fasten off.

ARMHOLE WITH VENT:
ROW 1 (= from WS): Work ch 1, 1 sc, * ch 1, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'', 1 sc *, repeat from *-* – make sure to work a no of sc/ch that is divisible by 4 + 2. Turn.
ROW 2: 3 ch ( = 1 dc), 1 dc in next sc, * ch 2, skip 1 ch and 1 sc, 1 dc in next ch, 1 dc in next sc *, repeat from *-*. Turn.
ROW 3: ch 1, work 1 sc in every dc and 2 sc in every ch-space. Turn.
ROW 4: Work ch 1, * 1 sc in next sc, ch 3, 1 sl st in same sc, work 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc *, repeat from *-* 1 sc in next sc, ch 3, 1 sl st in same sc, 1 sc in next sc. Fasten off.
Sew a button at the top of vent, button through first dc in opposite side.

TIES:
Cut 2 lengths of 3 metres/3.2 yds each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Thread tie up and down in row with dc in waist.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..

Updated online: 22.05.2015
The icons in the 1st row in A.1 is change into:
= sc in st below (not sc around st below)

Updated online: 25.06.2015
ROUND 1:
Work sl st until 1st ch-loop and now work after A.3 A:...

Updated online: 02.07.2015
Extra text under CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dtr at beg on round with 5 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 5th ch.
+
New chart A.5 (many dc in st is replaced with dc around st).

Updated online: 05.04.2019
Correction - BODY ROUND 1: BUT 4-2-5-8-6-12 times evenly on round work according to A.3B

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= ch
	= ch
	= sc in st below
	= sc around st below
	= dc in st
	= dc around st
	= tr in st
	= dtr in st
	= quintuple dc in st
	= 8 ch
	= Work 1 dc in next dc - but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc the same way, pull yarn through all 4 sts on hook
	= Work 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc – but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 dc in the same st, pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.
	= Shows last round from previous diagram
	= Crochet direction

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 162-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ).

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

2) What are the yarn groups?

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

8) What is a repeat?

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

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