DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.80 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Aphrodite

Crochet DROPS top with fans and star pattern in ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 162-1
DROPS design: Pattern no cl-038
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 72-80-88-98-110-122 cm / 28½"-31½"-34½"-38½"-43½"-48"
Full length: 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm / 24¾"-25½"-26⅜"-27⅛"-28"-28¾"

Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-450-500 g color no 01, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 20 dc x 10 rows = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 1 piece

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.80 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row/round with 3 ch. Finish a round with dc with 1 sl st in 3rd ch.

Replace first sc at beg of every sc row/round with 1 ch. Finish a round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 dc by working 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.
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TOP:
Worked in several parts. First work front piece, then 2 triangles that are put tog for back piece, then work the body downwards.

FRONT PIECE:
Work 175-194-213-237-266-295 ch on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Cotton Light. Turn and work 1 dc in fourth ch from hook (= 2 dc), * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish by skipping ch 1, 1 dc in each of the last 2-3-4-4-3-2 ch = 144-160-176-196-220-244 dc. Turn piece. Front piece is now worked back and forth over the first 72-80-88-98-110-122 dc on row. READ CROCHET INFO! Work 1 dc in every dc AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 dc in each side on every row - READ DECREASE TIP. Dec 16-18-19-21-22-24 times in total in each side = 40-44-50-56-66-74 dc, piece now measures approx. 17-19-20-22-23-25 cm / 6¾"-7½"-8"-8¾"-9"-9¾". Now work only over the first 10-11-13-15-19-22 dc on row (= from RS) as follows: Work 1 dc in every dc while AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 dc in each side of piece = 8-9-11-13-17-20 dc. Work 1 row more the same way = 6-7-9-11-15-18 dc. Then work 1 dc in every dc, the dec towards mid front is now done, but continue to dec 1 st in the side (towards armhole) on every row 2-3-5-7-11-14 more times = 4 dc remain on strap in all sizes. Continue with 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 40-44-48-52-56-60 cm / 15¾"-17¼"-19"-20½"-22"-23½" from ch-row. Fasten off. Repeat in the opposite side but now work over the last 10-11-13-15-19-22 dc on row. The 20-22-24-26-28-30 dc in the middle of piece not worked = neck.

BACK PIECE:
Back piece consists of two triangles that are sewn tog.
TRIANGLE 1 (top part of back): Work 33 ch on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Cotton Light. Turn and work 1 sc in second ch from hook (= 2 sc), work 1 sc in each of the next ch 3, * skip ch 1, 1 sc in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish by skipping ch 1, 1 sc in each of the last 3 ch = 28 sc. Turn and work according to A.1. Cut the yarn when triangle is done and put it aside.

TRIANGLE 2: This is worked in the same dc-row as front piece. Skip 22-26-30-35-41-47 dc (= armhole) after last dc on front piece. Work 1 sc in each of the next 28 dc, turn and work back and forth according to A.1 (22-26-30-35-41-47 dc remain on row after A.1 = armhole). When this triangle is done, sew them tog in the tip.

BODY:
Worked top down, on underside of ch-row from front and back piece. First work back and forth, then work in the round.

From RS: Beg in first ch, work 3 ch (= 1 dc), then work 1 dc in bottom edge of every dc from dc-row = 144-160-176-196-220-244 dc.
ROW 1 (WS):
Work 1 sc in every dc, AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 144-168-180-192-216-240 sc.
ROW 2 (RS): Work A.2 A (= 6 sts), work A.2 B over the next 132-156-168-180-204-228 sts, work A.2 C (= 6 sts). Work A.2 back and forth one time vertically. On last row in A.2 work 1 sl st at beg of round, now work piece in the round.

ROUND 1:
Work sl st until 1st ch-loop and now work after A.3 A: Work as follows in every ch-space: 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc + 2 ch. In every dc-group work as follows: 1 dc in second dc, ch 2, 1 dc in 4th dc, ch 2, 1 dc in 6th dc, ch 2, BUT 4-2-5-8-6-12 times evenly on round work according to A.3 B: Work as follows in every ch-space: 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc + 2 ch. In every dc-group work as follows: 1 dc in 2nd dc, ch 2, 1 dc in 3rd dc, ch 2, 1 dc in 5th dc, ch 2, 1 dc in 6th dc, 2 ch (work 4 dc in fan instead of 3) = 64-72-80-88-96-112 dc with 2 sts between every dc. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

Then work according to A.4 (8-9-10-11-12-14 repetitions in width).

Work A.4 1 time vertically, there are now 72-81-90-99-108-126 dc with 2 ch between every dc on round. Work a round with 1 dc + 2 ch in every dc, AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-3-0-3-0-0 dc evenly, inc by working 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc + 2 ch in a dc = 72-84-90-102-108-126 dc. Then work according to diagram A.5 (12-14-15-17-18-21 repetitions in width). Work diagram A.5 one time vertically. Fasten off. Piece now measures approx. 31 cm / 12¼" in all sizes from ch-row in waist and 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm / 24¾"-25½"-26⅜"-27⅛"-28"-28¾" in total.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder straps in each side on the top triangle on back piece (sew the 4 dc from shoulder strap against the 4 outermost sc in each side on triangle – NOTE! Try the top first and adjust length of straps if needed).

CROCHET EDGE:
Work an edge around the neck as follows:
ROUND 1: Ch 1, 1 sc, * ch 1, skip approx. 1 cm / ⅜", 1 sc *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in ch at beg of round – make sure to work a no of sc/ch that is divisible by 4.
ROUND 2: Work ch 1, * 1 sc in first sc, ch 3, 1 sl st in same sc, work 1 sc in next ch, 1 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next ch *, repeat *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first ch on round. Fasten off.

Work as follows around the armholes (make sure not to work the edge too loose):
ARMHOLE WITHOUT VENT:
ROUND 1: Work ch 1, 1 sc, * ch 1, skip approx. 1 cm / ⅜", 1 sc *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in ch at beg of round – make sure to work a no of sc/ch that is divisible by 4.
ROUND 2: 3 ch ( = 1 dc), 1 dc in next sc, * ch 2, skip 1 ch and 1 sc, 1 dc in next ch, 1 dc in next sc *, repeat from *-*, finish with 2 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 3: ch 1, work 1 sc in every dc and 2 sc in every ch-space, finish with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 4: Work ch 1, * 1 sc in first sc, ch 3, 1 sl st in same sc, work 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first ch on round. Fasten off.

ARMHOLE WITH VENT:
ROW 1 (= from WS): Work ch 1, 1 sc, * ch 1, skip approx. 1 cm / ⅜", 1 sc *, repeat from *-* – make sure to work a no of sc/ch that is divisible by 4 + 2. Turn.
ROW 2: 3 ch ( = 1 dc), 1 dc in next sc, * ch 2, skip 1 ch and 1 sc, 1 dc in next ch, 1 dc in next sc *, repeat from *-*. Turn.
ROW 3: ch 1, work 1 sc in every dc and 2 sc in every ch-space. Turn.
ROW 4: Work ch 1, * 1 sc in next sc, ch 3, 1 sl st in same sc, work 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc *, repeat from *-* 1 sc in next sc, ch 3, 1 sl st in same sc, 1 sc in next sc. Fasten off.
Sew a button at the top of vent, button through first dc in opposite side.

TIES:
Cut 2 lengths of 3 metres/3.2 yds each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Thread tie up and down in row with dc in waist.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 22.05.2015
The icons in the 1st row in A.1 is change into:
= sc in st below (not sc around st below)
Updated online: 25.06.2015
ROUND 1:
Work sl st until 1st ch-loop and now work after A.3 A:...
Updated online: 02.07.2015
Extra text under CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dtr at beg on round with 5 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 5th ch.
+
New chart A.5 (many dc in st is replaced with dc around st).
Updated online: 05.04.2019
Correction - BODY ROUND 1: BUT 4-2-5-8-6-12 times evenly on round work according to A.3B

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = ch
symbols = ch
symbols = sc in st below
symbols = sc around st below
symbols = dc in st
symbols = dc around st
symbols = tr in st
symbols = dtr in st
symbols = quintuple dc in st
symbols = 8 ch
symbols = Work 1 dc in next dc - but wait with
last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc the same way, pull yarn through all 4 sts on hook
symbols = Work 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc – but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 dc in the same st, pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.
symbols = Shows last round from previous diagram
symbols = Crochet direction
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 162-1

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Comments / Questions (347)

country flag Darlene Paisley wrote:

Where are the instructions for the center flower pattern between the mesh pattern ?

22.06.2024 - 14:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Darlene, I think you refer to the A.4 pattern, which you should do following the diagram (no written out instructions, but follow the diagram). Happy Stitching!

23.06.2024 - 00:59

country flag Mareike Rau wrote:

Wird die lufmaschen Kette zu Beginn zu einer Runde durch eine kettmasche verbunden, oder wird zu Beginn nur in Reihe gehäkelt, wenn es um die start geht?

29.05.2024 - 10:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Rau, ja genau, siehe auch HÄKELINFO am Anfang der Anleitung. Viel Spaß beim Häkeln!

29.05.2024 - 17:19

country flag Lilian wrote:

Thanks for explaining,wish the pattern was more clearer.

24.05.2024 - 11:03

country flag Lilian wrote:

I am trying to make this top,got it wrong now am trying again am making the X2 size the front is 110sts then it says „Repeat in the opposite side but now work over the last 10-11-13-15-19-22 dc on row. The 20-22-24-26-28-30 dc in the middle of piece not worked = neck.“Does that mean, the only part left is the strap.?

23.05.2024 - 22:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lilian, piece is started by working the chain stitch for whole circumference ie front + back piece but after the first row you work only the first 110 sts for front piece; back piece will be worked later over all 220 sts worked on very first row (= 110 for both front and back piece); so that when you work front piece, the middle 28 sts are for neck on front piece, and the 19 sts on each side are for shoulder/strap, when first strap is done, you just cut the yarn and work 2nd strap the same way over the 19 sts on the other side of neck. Happy crocheting!

24.05.2024 - 07:52

country flag Lena wrote:

Hallo! Die Anleitung für das Rückenteil sagt, dass man 28 feste Machen haben soll und dann nach dem Diagramm A.1 häkeln soll. Das Diagramm hat allerdings 29 feste Maschen in der ersten Reihe. Ich habe jetzt die letzte übersprungene Luftmasche der Vorreihe ebenfalls als feste Masche gehäkelt. Habe ich etwas in der Anleitung übersehen? Liebe Dank!

24.04.2024 - 17:44

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Lena, bei der 1. Reihe A.1 hat man 28 feste Maschen + 1 Luftmasche, so insgesamt 29 Maschen aber nur 28 feste Maschen. Viel Spaß beim Häkeln!

25.04.2024 - 07:49

country flag Cat wrote:

Sorry, nevermind, I figured it out.

23.04.2024 - 19:25

country flag Cat wrote:

What does BUT mean here: after A.3 A: Work as follows in every ch-space: 1 tr + 2 ch + 1 tr + 2 ch. In every tr-group work as follows: 1 tr in second tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in 4th tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in 6th tr, 2 ch, BUT 4-2-5-8-6-12 times evenly on round work according to A.3 B:

23.04.2024 - 16:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cat, you work now following diagram A.3, ie (1 tr + 2 ch + 1 tr + 2 ch in every ch-space and 1 tr in second tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in 4th tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in 6th tr, 2 ch in every tr-group), but you have to increase 4-2-5-8-6-12 times on the round, this means instead of working A.3A as described above, you will work 4-2-5-8-6-12 times as shown in A.3B instead, ie (1 tr + 2 ch + 1 tr + 2 ch in every chain but 1 tr in 2nd tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in 3rd tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in 5th tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in 6th tr, 2 ch in every tr-group) so that you will get 4-2-5-8-6-12 times evenly fans with 4 tr instead of fans with 3 tr. Happy crocheting!

24.04.2024 - 08:10

country flag Cat wrote:

What does BUT mean?

23.04.2024 - 01:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cat, we use "but" several times in this pattern, can you please tell us which "but" you have worries with? Thanks for your comprehension.

23.04.2024 - 08:13

country flag Liv Lindtvedt Søfteland wrote:

I diagram A.5 omgang 9 (3. siste runde) så er det en lang hake/v i mønsteret jeg ikke får til å stemme hva er for noe. Håper dere kan hjelpe så jeg får gjort toppen ferdig.

03.04.2024 - 10:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Liv. Det er en stav om maske (ikonet er gjort lengre slik at man bedre ser hvilken maske staven(e) skal hekles i). Se evnt hjelpe videoene til denne toppen. mvh DROPS Design

08.04.2024 - 11:58

country flag Wendy wrote:

* skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish by skipping ch 1, 1 dc in each of the last 2-3-4-4-3-2 ch = 144-160-176-196-220-244 dc. : Ik heb mijn opgezette lossen tig keer nageteld, ze kloppen. Ik heb de herhaling aangehouden, en bij het laatste stukje houd ik nog 5 lossen over. Maar ik begrijp niet hoe ik dan 1 losse moet overslaan, dan 1stokje in de laatste 3 moet haken. Dan houd ik uiteindelijk 1 losse over. Hopelijk kan iemand me helpen :(

28.05.2023 - 20:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Wendy,

Helaas kan ik niet met je meekijken, maar als het verder allemaal klopt en je kunt hierop verder haken met de volgende toer, dan lijkt mij die ene steek niet zo'n punt. Deze kun je eventueel nog uithalen op het het eind.

29.05.2023 - 15:44