Just Me by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jumper with lace pattern in ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 162-3
DROPS design: Pattern no cl-042
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 100-108-116-130-138-152 cm / 39½"-42½"-45 3/4"-51½"-54"-59 3/4"
Full length: 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''

Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
500-550-650-700-750-850 g color no 08, ice blue

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 – or size needed to get 16 dc x 8 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.80 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Light uni colour DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 1.80 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.2.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row with 3 ch.

3 DC TOG:
Work 3 dc into 1 dc as follows: * Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 strands on hook) *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook.
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BACK PIECE:
Work back and forth. Work 94-101-108-122-129-143 ch on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 with Cotton Light. Work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (= 2 dc), 1 dc in each of the next ch 5, * 1 dc in each of the next ch 6, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-* until 1 ch remains, 1 dc in last ch = 80-86-92-104-110-122 dc. Then work as follows: 3 ch - READ CROCHET INFO, skip 1 dc (replaced by the 3 ch), A.1 (= 6 sts) 13-14-15-17-18-20 times in total, finish with 1 dc in last dc. Continue pattern like this. Eyelet holes in A.1 goes diagonally towards the left 2 sts on every row (seen from RS) until hole meets the one dc in left side of piece. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.z until finished measurements. Fasten off when piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm / 15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼''-17¾''. Now work pattern as before over the middle 68-74-80-80-86-98 sts (= 6-6-6-12-12-12 sts in each side for armhole). When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'', adjust so that next row is from RS. Work over the first 20-23-24-24-24-31 sts (= shoulder) as follows: Work 1 dc in every dc and 2 dc in every ch-space = 20-23-24-24-24-31 dc. Work 2 rows with 1 dc in every dc.
Fasten off. Do the same on the other shoulder

FRONT PIECE:
Work as back piece but work A.2 instead of A.1, i.e. eyelet holes goes diagonally towards the right (seen from RS). Repeat A.x until finished measurements. When piece measures 45-47-48-50-51-53 cm / 17 3/4"-18½"-19"-19 3/4"-20"-21", adjust after a whole repetition of A.x dec for neck (next row is from WS) as follows: Work as before over the first 31-34-37-37-40-46 dc, work 3 dc TOG - see explanation above. Turn piece. Repeat this dec on every row toward mid-front 7-7-8-8-9-9 times in total = 20-23-24-24-25-31 sts remain for shoulder.
Then work 1 row with 1 dc in every dc and 2 dc in every ch-space. Work 2 rows with 1 dc in every dc. Fasten off. Do the same on the other shoulder

SLEEVE:
Work back and forth. Work 45-45-49-49-52-52 ch on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 with Cotton Light. Work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (= 2 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 5-5-7-7-5-5 ch, * 1 dc in each of the next ch 6, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-* until 1-1-3-3-1-1 ch remains, 1 dc in the last 1-1-3-3-1-1 ch = 38-38-42-42-44-44 dc. Work 1 dc in each of the first 1-1-3-3-1-1 dc, A.2 until 1-1-3-3-1-1 dc remain, (= 6-6-6-6-7-7 times in width), 1 dc in each of the last 1-1-3-3-1-1 dc. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.x until finished measurements. When piece measures 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm / 4'', inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in first and last dc on row (= 2 dc inc). Repeat inc every 4½-4-4-3-3-2½ cm / 1 3/4"-1½"-1½"-1"-1"-7/8" 9-10-10-12-12-14 more times = 58-60-64-68-70-74 sts. Work the inc sts in pattern. NOTE: There is always 1 dc (or 3 ch = 1 dc) in each side of piece. Fasten off when piece measures 52-52-51-51-51-48 cm / 20½"-20½"-20"-20"-20"-19" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Work the shoulder seams tog from WS as follows through both layers: 1 sc in first dc, * ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-*. Sew in sleeves. Work the under arm seams and side seams tog from WS as follows through both layers: * 1 sc in outer loop, ch 3, skip 1 row *, repeat from *-* until approx. 10 cm / 4'' remain on body for vent in each side. Fasten off.

NECK EDGE:
Work an edge around the neck as follows from mid on top of shoulder: 1 sc, * ch 3, skip approx. 1 cm / ½'', 1 sc *, repeat from *-* around the entire neck and finish with 1 sl st in first sc on round. Fasten off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = ch
symbols = dc in dc
symbols = dc in ch-space
symbols = first row is explained in pattern
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 162-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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5) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

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8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (170)

country flag Dorthea Falck wrote:

Hej. Jeg forstår ikke hvad stjernenerne * betyder i just me opskriften og hvornår skal man bruge afsnittet 3 st sammen. Håber i kan hjælpe Hilsen Dorthea.

18.09.2023 - 20:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Dorthea Om du ser på diagramteksten så står betydningen av stjernen (* = første række er forklaret i opskriften). Se midt i avsnittet til FORSTK, der brukes 3 st sammen (...således: Hækl som før over de første 31-34-37-37-40-46 st, hækl 3 ST SAMMEN – se forkl over. Vend arb. Gentag denne ...). mvh DROPS Design

26.09.2023 - 13:59

country flag Šárka wrote:

Dobrý den. Mám dotaz k přednímu dílu. Uvádíte v návodu toto:ujímáme pro průkrčník, takto – začínáme rubovou řadou: nad následujícími 31-34-37-37-40-46 DS háčkujeme stejně jako dosud, pak 3 DS sháčkujeme dohromady. To ale nevychází na střed řady a jelikož je na fotce véčkový výstřih, tak mi přijde, že je chyba v návodu. Prosím o radu jak to udělat. Děkuji Šárka

22.08.2023 - 15:24

country flag Saga wrote:

Liten fråga.... "Sedan virkas det så här: 3 lm – LÄS VIRKINFO, hoppa över 1 st (ersätts av de 3 lm), A.1 (= 6 m) totalt 13-14-15-17-18-20 ggr, avsluta med 1 st i sista st. " Skall det vara en stolpe i början och slutet på varje varv och däremellan virkas efter A.1? Har tagit mig ett tag att komma fram till detta men får inte diagrammet att gå jämnt ut annars. Hade sparat mig några timmar om man förklarat det istället för att hänvisa till virkinfo.

09.08.2023 - 11:41

country flag Wolfi wrote:

"Wie zuvor über die ersten 40 Stb (XL), dann 3 stab zusammenhäkeln" - wie ist das zu verstehen? Wenn ich nur die stb zähle, bin ich über der mitte bevor ich was zusammenhäkeln kann. Wenn ich alle maschen zähle, kommen nach 40 maschen 2 luftmaschen, die ich so nicht zusammenhäkeln kann. Mein gesamtmaß (110 maschen) müsste aber korrekt sein, hab ich da irgendwo einen denkfehler?

23.06.2023 - 18:43

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Wolfi, zählen Sie hier alle Maschen (Luftmaschen sowie Stäbchen),diese Reihe muss die 1. Reihe vom Diagram sein, dann häkeln Sie einfach die ersten 40 Maschen und dann häkeln Sie 3 Stäbchen zusammen. Es waren keine 110 Maschen mehr aber nur 86 nach Armlöcher-Abnahmen, so häkeln Sie genau die Hälfte der Maschen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

26.06.2023 - 08:22

country flag Ana wrote:

No entiendo muy bien por qué al trabajar A.z el tejido me va aumentando y aumentando

27.08.2022 - 11:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ana, debe de tratarse de un error en la tensión del tejido, ya que no debería de aumentar según los puntos trabajados. Revisa que estés manteniendo la tensión del tejido inicial.

27.08.2022 - 20:04

country flag Gemma wrote:

Hola! Cuantas cadenetas lleva el delantero? ¿Las mismas que la espalda?\r\nMuchas gracias

05.08.2022 - 14:50

country flag Gemma wrote:

¿Cómo diferenció el lado del derecho del revés?Gracias

21.07.2022 - 07:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Gemma, la primera fila trabajada es por el lado derecho. Puedes marcarla con un marcapuntos para que, cuando tengas el marcapuntos hacia tí, sepas que estás trabajando el lado derecho, mientras que cuando lo tienes hacia fuera estás trabajando por el lado revés.

24.07.2022 - 17:37

country flag Tarja Magnusson wrote:

Önskar virka tröjan ”Just me” 162-3 (eller nr cl-042) isblå med hålmönster, hos er virkad i Cotton light istället i garnet Blend Bamboo (har flera nystan över från ett annat arbete). Skulle det fungera? Tacksam för svar!

21.04.2022 - 11:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Tarja. Jag känner dessvärre inte till det garnet du vill använda men om du får virkfastheten att stämma (16 st x 8 v på 10 x 10 cm) så kan du använda det. Mvh DROPS Design

21.04.2022 - 12:28

country flag Rima wrote:

I love drops pattern. I am doing the back and time to make the arm holes, size S, I have 13 sets of 4tr+2ch. I do not understand how to continue working the pattern over the middle.....? RS facing, should I start from the edge upto 68sts?.... Pretty confused

14.11.2021 - 14:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rima, when the piece measures 40 cm, you cut the yarn and, then, you work over the middle 68 sts. The sts remaining unworked on each side (6) form the armholes. To easily count the middle sts, you could put a marker stitch in the center and count half of the middle stitches to work over (68) at each side of this marker stitch (68/2 =34 on each side). Happy crocheting!

14.11.2021 - 18:47

country flag Ada wrote:

No entiendo cómo hacer después de las 13 veces de hacer el patrón a-1 para la talla chica, dice que teja horizontal, hasta finalizar las medidas, no entiendo como

09.09.2021 - 22:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ada, tienes que trabajar según el patrón A.1. En el patrón escrito solo se explica la primera fila, el resto tienes que trabajarlas a partir del diagrama, trabajando el patrón A.1 hasta finalizar las medidas.

26.09.2021 - 20:23

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