DROPS / 160 / 20

Savannah Stroll by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS shawl with lace pattern in "Lace" or "BabyAlpaca Silk".

Tags: lace, scarves, shawls, stole,
  • Savannah Stroll / DROPS 160-20 - Knitted DROPS shawl with lace pattern in Lace or BabyAlpaca Silk.
  • Savannah Stroll / DROPS 160-20 - Knitted DROPS shawl with lace pattern in Lace or BabyAlpaca Silk.
DROPS design: Pattern no la-022
Yarn group A
Measurements: Width: approx. 30 cm / 11 3/4'' when blocked Length: approx. 150 cm / 59'' when blocked

DROPS LACE from Garnstudio
100 g color no 3112, powder pink
Or use:
200 g color no 3125, light pink

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – NOTE! Read about the knitting gauge below.

This garment is to be soaked and blocked/stretched to size afterwards so the knitting gauge is not that important. But to get a sense of whether you are working too loose/tight, work a test on needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 in stockinette st and get approx. 24 sts x 32 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

See diagrams A.1 - A.5. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. NOTE! Double YO in diagram.

When using another yarn from yarn group A, there is no need to stretch to measurements, but place it gently out in shape. Leave to dry. Repeat the process when the garment has been washed.

Worked back and forth in 2 parts - from the side and in towards the middle, and sewn tog when finished.

Place circular needle double (or use another needle in approx. the same size in addition to the needle you are working on) and cast on 79 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Lace or BabyAlpaca Silk to avoid a tight edge, pull out one needle. K 1 row from WS.
Work next row as follows from RS: 3 sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, A.1A (= 7 sts), A.1B over the next 60 sts (= 5 times in width), A.1C (= 6 sts), finish with 3 sts in garter st. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work as follows: 3 sts in garter st, A.2A (= 7 sts) over A.1A, A.2B over A.1B, A.2C over A.1C, finish with 3 sts in garter st. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work as follows: 3 sts in garter st, A.1A (= 7 sts) over A.2A, A.1B over A.2B, A.1C over A.2C, finish with 3 sts in garter st. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work as follows: 3 sts in garter st, A.3A (= 7 sts) over A.1A, A.3B over A.1B, A.3C over A.1C, finish with 3 sts in garter st. Work A.3 2 times in total vertically.
Now work as follows: 3 sts in garter st, A.1A (= 7 sts) over A.3A, A.1B over A.3B, A.1C over A.3C, finish with 3 sts in garter st. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work as follows: 3 sts in garter st, A.4A (= 13 sts), A.4B over the next 60 sts (= 5 times), finish with 3 sts in garter st Work A.4 6 times in total vertically, loosely bind off. Piece measures approx. 74 cm / 29'' vertically.

Work second half the same way as first half but replace A.4 with A.5.

Graft/sew the 2 parts tog at the bind-off edge st by st.

Place the shawl in lukewarm water until it is soaking wet. Carefully squeeze the water out of the shawl - do not twist the shawl - then roll the shawl in a towel and squeeze to remove more water - the shawl will now only be moist. When using BabyAlpaca Silk – READ SHAPING!
Place the shawl on a carpet or mattress - carefully stretch it out to size and fasten it with pins. Leave to dry. Repeat the process when the garment has been washed.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K from WS
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = 2 YO between 2 sts, on next row work first YO, slip second YO off the needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 160-20) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (29)

country flag ENZA 17.01.2020 - 11:12:

Buongiorno ma solo con i ferri circolari ? una spiegazione e schema con i ferri normali ? i ferri circolari non li so usare e come me tante altre persone grazie

user icon DROPS Design 17.01.2020 kl. 12:50:

Buongiorno Enza. Quando la lavorazione è in ferri di andata e ritorno (come nel caso di questa sciarpa), può sostituire i ferri circolari con quelli dritti. Buon lavoro!

country flag Britt Tauson 10.11.2019 - 16:06:

Tycker diagrammet är lite svårt att följa, för färgen är så bländande svart,svårt för det går ihop. Kan man få det i Text?

country flag Lyne Barbeau 17.07.2019 - 21:49:

J’ai besoin d’une info ont assemblés les deux côtés en grafting mais sur la photo il me semble avant d’assemblée le patron A1 est présent avant de faire du grafting mais ce n’est pas mentionné dans le patron par contre si je le fais je le fait seulement sur un côté et après le grafting pour l’assemble sera là meilleur façon de le faire Merci de votre aide

user icon DROPS Design 18.07.2019 kl. 10:25:

Bonjour Mme Barbeau, on tricote l'écharpe en deux parties en les commençant toutes les 2 par l'extrémité, puis on va les assembler au milieu (non visible sur la photo). Vous pouvez mettre les mailles en attente à la fin de chaque partie au lieu de rabattre pour les assembler en grafting. Bon tricot!

country flag Lyne Barbeau 14.07.2019 - 17:09:

J’aimerais votre aide pour la deuxième partie A5 j’ai sûrement fait une erreur d’interprétation du patron comment le lire la première ligne du A5 Merci de votre aide

user icon DROPS Design 15.07.2019 kl. 10:43:

Bonjour Mme Barbeau, tricotez A.5A comme le montre le diagramme, puis A.5B, et, quand il reste 1 maille de A.5B, faites 1 jeté, tricotez les 2 m ens à l'end (= la dernière m du 1er A.5B avec la 1ère m du A.5B suivant), et continuez ainsi, pensez à toujours bien vérifier le nombre de mailles jersey entre les diminutions et les jetés. Bon tricot!

country flag Birgit Sørensen 19.01.2019 - 18:25:

Diagram A2, række 9, hvordan strikker man 12x5 mømstrer, når maskerne er både i A og B

user icon DROPS Design 28.01.2019 kl. 12:21:

Hei Birgit. Det gjør ikke noe at dette symbolet strekker seg over 2 diagrammer. Du strikker altså 1 rapport av A.2a, og når du kommer til slutten strikker du fellingen over 3 masker (2 fra A.2a og 1 fra A.2b) og så fortsetter du med 2 maske i A.2b. Når du kommer til slutten av første rapport med A.2b, strikker du igjen de 3 maskene i samme felling, og fortsetter med 2. maske i neste rapport av A.2b. God fornøyelse.

country flag Annalisa 16.10.2018 - 11:09:

Ciao, Bellissimo progetto. Sono una principiante, quindi scusate a priori la domanda, forse banale. Ho iniziato il lavoro ma mi é venuto un dubbio… È la mia impressione o si inizia direttamente il lavoro dalle due righe di traforato (lineare) per passare poi direttamente ai rombi, saltando la fascia tutta traforata? ( per meglio intenderci, quella parte All’altezza della mano della modella in cui i trafori sembrano formare dei ventagli?

user icon DROPS Design 16.10.2018 kl. 11:29:

Buongiorno Annalisa. La parte da lei indicata, quella a ventagli, è il diagramma A.2. Buon lavoro!

country flag Flo 04.05.2017 - 07:22:

Bonjour j'ai une petite question, ne manque t-il pas un diagramme au départ ? Sur la photo on voit bien le motif A1 et A2 mais avant le point ajouré en bas n'est pas décrit ?

user icon DROPS Design 04.05.2017 kl. 09:08:

Bonjour Flo, tous les diagrammes sont bien indiqués, dans le bon ordre. Bon tricot!

country flag Hansi Koekkoek 21.04.2017 - 15:47:

Moeten alle omslagen als dubbele omslag gebreid worden? Ik zie geen verschil in het patroon tussen een omslag en een dubbele omslag.,Dank voor uw antwoord. Groet Hansi.

user icon DROPS Design 26.04.2017 kl. 12:09:

Hallo Hansi, Ja, dat klopt inderdaad; je maakt alle omslagen dubbel.

country flag Claudia Schwarz 07.06.2016 - 07:55:

Hallo, das ist mein erster Versuch und bekomme das Muster nicht hin. Wie strickt man die Muster (A2) von links nach rechts ? von unten nach oben?

user icon DROPS Design 08.06.2016 kl. 07:13:

Liebe Claudia, das Muster strickt man von unten nach oben, beginnend in der rechten unteren Ecke. Gutes Gelingen!

country flag Liette Courchesne 12.04.2016 - 14:59:

Est-il possible de laisser les mailles sur un arrêt de mailles au lieu de les rabattre et ceci afin de faire un grafting comme le modèle 146-24? Merci Liette Courchesne

user icon DROPS Design 12.04.2016 kl. 16:23:

Bonjour Mme Courchesne, tout à fait, vous pouvez laisser les mailles en attente et assembler ensuite les 2 pièces entre elles en grafting. Bon tricot!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 160-20

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.