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  1. Free patterns
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  4. DROPS
  5. 160
  6. 18

Ayla by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS tunic in garter st with lace pattern in ”Muskat”. Size: S - XXXL.

Keywords: a-shape, bottom up, lace, round neck, sleeveless, square neck, top, waist shaping

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DROPS 160-18
DROPS design: Pattern no r-672
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 78-86-94-102-112-122 cm / 30 3/4"-34"-37"-40"-44"-48"
Full length: 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''

Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
350-400-450-500-550-600 g color no 05, light purple

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – or size needed to get 22 sts x 44 rows in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton 		from 2.80 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 2.80 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.60$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec as follows when 2 sts remain before marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: K 2 twisted tog (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front).

INCREASE TIP (applies to side inc):
Work until 1 st remains before marker, make 1 YO, K 2 sts (marker is between these sts), make 1 YO. On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front).
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TUNIC:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
The garment is the same depth around the neck both on back and front piece.
Cast on 288-304-336-368-400-448 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Muskat. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work A.1 (= 16 sts) 18-19-21-23-25-28 times in total in width. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 216-228-252-276-300-336 sts on needle. Piece now measures approx. 10 cm / 4''. Then work piece in stockinette st. Insert a marker in each side (= 108-114-126-138-150-168 sts between each marker). When piece measures 11-14-13-11-16-13 cm / 4½"-5½"-5"-4½"-6 1/4"-5", dec 1 st on each side of each marker (= 4 sts dec) – see DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 2-2-2-2-1½-1½ cm / 3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-½"-½" 12-11-12-14-15-18 more times = 164-180-200-216-236-260 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm / 14½''-15''-15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½'', switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and continue in garter st. Continue with garter st in the round - AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm / 15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼''-17¾'', inc 1 st on each side of markers (= 4 sts inc) – see INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc when piece measures 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm / 17¾''-18''-18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾'' = 172-188-208-224-244-268 sts. Work next round as follows: bind off the first 7-10-12-15-19-22 sts, (= after marker = armhole), K 72-74-80-82-84-90, bind off the next 14-20-24-30-38-44 sts, marker is in the middle of these sts (= under second armhole) and K 72-74-80-82-84-90, bind off the last 7-10-12-15-19-22 sts = 144-148-160-164-168-180 sts. Fasten off.

Work next round as follows: Cast on 75-79-84-88-93-97 sts for shoulder strap (over the bind off sts), P the next 72-74-80-82-84-90 (= front piece), cast on 75-79-84-88-93-97 sts for shoulder strap and P the last 72-74-80-82-84-90 (= back piece) = 294-306-328-340-354-374 sts. K 1 round - AT THE SAME TIME insert 4 markers in the piece as follows: K 75-79-84-88-93-97 (= shoulder strap), insert 1 marker in next st, K 70-72-78-80-82-88, insert 1 marker in next st (= front piece), K 75-79-84-88-93-97 (= shoulder strap), insert 1 marker in next st, K 70-72-78-80-82-88, insert 1 marker in last st (= back piece). P 1 round. On next round dec 1 st on each side of each marker (= 8 sts dec) - see DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec on every other round 18-18-20-20-20-22 times in total = 150-162-168-180-194-198 sts. Bind off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 160-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Carmen-Gabriela wrote:

Hallo:) Wie strickt man den Zier-Lochstreifen Raglan von unten nach oben beim Träger zum VT/RT? Ich lese leider nichts von Umschlägen bei den Abnahmen. (Evtl. doppelte Abn + 1 Umschl.?) Es sieht so klasse zu den Rippen aus:)

01.04.2020 - 17:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Carmen-Gabriela, es sind keine Löcher bei den Trägern/bei der Passe, es wird beidseitig von jeder Markierung wie unter ABNAHMETIPP abgenommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.04.2020 kl. 07:45

country flag Melanie Visser wrote:

Having difficulty reading the graph. The O is on a line should it be in the box. Does that O mean you work the yo using the 2 stitches and then move to knitting 4 stitches the triangle configuration. Then 4 knit 4 stitches then yo then knit 1 stitch the yo again then Knit 4 stitches then triangle etc. The end of row of knit this way didn’t work out. Is this the way it should be read.

14.03.2020 - 22:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Melanie, the first row of the pattern is K6, *K2TOG PSSO, K7* and repeat *-*. In the third row: *YO, K5, SKIP 1, K2TOG, PSSO, K5, YO, K1.* And repeat *-*. And so forth. Thus, the "O" means you have to do a yarn over between 2 stitches. and the triangle means you have to slip 1 stitch, knit 2 stitch together and then pass teh slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

15.03.2020 kl. 14:55

country flag Marzhina wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne parle pas de A1 mais du haut de la tunique, une fois 4 marqueurs places, je dois diminuer une m. de chaque cote des marqueurs (diminution des bretelles). Je dois sur les rg end. du point mousse diminuer en faisant: avant le marqueur 2 m. ens. et apres le marqueur 2 m. torse ens. Cependant, je n'obtiens pas la jolie finition de la photo (a savoir une diagonale formee par les diminutions). Dois je apres la formation des bretelles reprendre le travail en jersey? Merci

11.06.2019 - 12:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marzhina et merci pour ces précisions. Pour diminuer pour les bretelles, tricotez jusqu'au marqueur, tricotez 2 m ens à l'end, glissez le marqueur et tricotez 2 m ens torse à l'endroit. Au tour suivant, tricotez ces mailles à l'envers (= point mousse) et répétez ces diminutions tous les 2 tours (= tous les tours en mailles endroit du point mousse tricoté en rond), la petite diagonale va se former d'elle même. Bon tricot!

11.06.2019 kl. 13:04

country flag Marzhina wrote:

Tres joli modele. Je suis malheureusement bloquee au niveau des diminutions apres les bretelles. Meme en suivant les indications, cela ne donne pas le joli motif du modele. Quelqu un pourrait-il m expliquer comment obtenir le motif du modele?

10.06.2019 - 17:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marzhina, parlez-vous du diagramme A.1? Les diminutions sont incluses dans A.1, vous diminuez par ex 2 m au 1er rang de A.1 (= 2 m diminuées non compensées par des jetés), puis vous tricotez le point ajouré et répétez la diminution au 15ème rang de A.1. Bon tricot!

11.06.2019 kl. 11:54

country flag Danielle RODIER wrote:

à propos de la tunique du n°160-18 j'arrive en haut de la tunique au niveau des bretelles l'explication me semble erronée, pourriez vous m'aider à terminer cette superbe tunique? Merci

14.02.2019 - 15:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rodier, pour le haut de la tunique, vous montez les mailles des bretelles, et placez 4 marqueurs (à la transition des bretelles et du dos/devant). Continuez au point mousse en diminuant 1 m de chaque côté de chaque marqueur tous les 2 tours (= tous les tours en mailles endroit), comme pour un raglan., et rabattrez ensuite toutes les mailles. Bon tricot!

15.02.2019 kl. 08:34

country flag Gitte Hansson Jensen wrote:

Hej...jeg er i tvivl om ærmekanten...skal der slet ikke gøres mere ved den, enten strik/hækle en kant..? Hilsen Gitte Hansson Jensen

30.04.2018 - 23:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gitte, nej det er ikke meningen. Men du må selvfølgelig gerne :)

04.05.2018 kl. 12:11

BZ wrote:

I believe there is a mistake in the very last section of instructions. After the cast on for the straps, the placement of the marker numbers are not correct. They should be exactly the same as the cast on numbers but they are not. (ie. you cast on 74 but the marker placement says 72 and you haven't done anything yet). thank you

07.03.2017 - 14:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Bz, pattern is fine, you are inserting a marker in the 1st of the sts on front/back piece + another marker in the last st on front/back piece, so that you will have: K75, K1 adding a marker in this st, K 70, K1 adding a marker in this st, K75, K1 adding a marker in this st, K70, K1 adding a marker in this st. Happy knitting!

07.03.2017 kl. 15:59

country flag Gro wrote:

Hva er det jeg ikke skjønner med diagram a når det står totalt 16 masker? Jeg får det kun til å være 15 masker...?

27.07.2015 - 10:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gro. Förste raekke er 16 masker. Trekanten i midten gaar over 3 masker og du har 6 masker til höjre og 7 til venstre = 16.

27.07.2015 kl. 15:32

country flag Gro Cathrine Aasgrav wrote:

Hva er det jeg ikke skjønner med diagram a når det står totalt 16 masker? Jeg kan kun få det til å være 15 masker...?

27.07.2015 - 10:32

country flag Mita wrote:

Ideale zomertuniek

31.12.2014 - 12:17

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