DROPS design: Pattern no ee-524
Yarn group E or C+C
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Sizes:
US: 5/6½ - 7½/8½ - 9/10 – 10½/12
EU: 35/37 - 38/39 – 40/42 – 43/44
Slipper length: 24 - 27- 29 - 32 cm / 9½"-10½"-11½"-12½"

Materials: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
100-150-150-150 g colour no 31, pastel blue
100-100-100-150 g color no 47, light beige

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 8 mm / US 11 - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st with Snow = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm) before felting.
After felting 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm) = 13.5 sts x 28 rows
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Arched (white), NO 540: 2 pieces in all sizes

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
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DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
1 ridge = K 2 rows
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SLIPPER:
The slipper is worked in one and sewn tog mid front and mid back, beg at the top of instep - SEE CHART.
First work the flap, work it tog with slipper bit by bit. READ THE ENTIRE PATTERN BEFORE WORKING THE SLIPPER!

FLAP:
Cast on 10 sts on needle size 8 mm / US 11 with pastel blue. Work in GARTER ST - see explanation above until piece measures 17-17-18-18 cm / 6 3/4"-6 3/4"-7"-7". Slip sts on a spare needle or on a thread.

Cast on 3-3-5-5 sts on needle size 8 mm / US 11 with pastel blue. Work in stockinette st AT THE SAME TIME cast on at the end of every row from RS as follows: 3 sts 2 times and 1 st 3 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3 cm / 1'', cast on 21-25-25-29 sts at the end of a row from WS. After all inc are done there are 33-37-39-43 sts on needle. REMEMBER THE TENSION/GAUGE! When piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'', work a short row as follows: K the first 21-25-25-29 sts, turn and work back.
When piece measures 10-11-11-11½ cm/4"-4 3/8"-4 3/8"-4½", work next row as follows: Work 18-22-22-26 sts, place needle with sts from flap in front of piece and work flap tog with the next 10 sts (K 1 st from flap tog with 1 st from slipper), work the last 5-5-7-7 sts from slipper. When piece measures 10½-11½-11½-12 ½ cm/4 1/4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4 7/8", switch to light beige. Work a short row the same way when slipper measures 14-15-15-17 cm/5½"-6"-6"-6 3/4", 22-23-23-27 cm/8 3/4"-9"-9"-10½" and 30-32-32-38 cm / 11 3/4"-12½"-12½"-15". AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 18-20-20-22 cm/ 7"-8"-8"-8 3/4", insert a marker = mid under foot.

When the same length has been worked as before marker with light beige, switch to pastel blue. Now work the other side of slipper with dec instead of inc. Beg dec when as many cm / inches have been worked from marker as from last inc and until marker.
Dec at the beg of every row from WS as follows: 1 st 3 times and 3 sts 2 times.
Dec at beg of a row from RS as follows (after 3 dec have been done from WS): 21-25-25-29 sts 1 time = 3-3-5-5 sts remain. Cast/bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the slipper mid under foot and sew tog mid front on toe and over the bottom 12-12-14-14 sts that are cast on. Pick up approx. 60 sts around the opening at the top with pastel blue, it is important to pick up enough sts to avoid a tight edge. K 2 rows back and forth. Cast/bind off. Sew seam mid back (A + B) in outer loop of edge sts. Knit one more slipper the same way, BUT this time fasten the flap when 10-11-11-11 ½ cm / 4"-4 3/8"-4 3/8"-4½" remain on slipper, i.e. after marker and directly after switch to pastel blue (adjust according to slipper already worked).

FELTING:
Place the slippers in the washing machine with a detergent without enzymes and optical bleach. Wash hot at 40 degrees C/104F with normal spin but no pre-wash. Put on the slipper and shape it to the correct size while it is still wet. At subsequent wash, wash the slipper at regular wool programme.

Sew a button through the flap and slipper - see picture.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 20.08.2015
New yarn amount under size 38/39 - 40/42, pastel blue. Materials: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio 100-150-150-150 g colour no 31, pastel blue

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
signature-image

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 161-37) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (31)

country flag Shirley wrote:

How do I make the knitting patterns into a pdf file so I can save it in Knit Companion. A folder where I keep my knitting patterns.

23.10.2020 - 22:51:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Shirley, just below the pattern, there is a small printer icon. Click on the roll down menue, select print tthis pattern, and yo go from there. At the print-page select "save as pdf". Happy Knitting!

24.10.2020 kl. 03:42:

country flag Debbie wrote:

I had to shrink this twice to get the right size. I would much have preferred the result on the first shrinkage. It would have taken less wool as well.

27.12.2019 - 01:46:

country flag Daniel wrote:

The toes in the video are MUCH shorter than the one on the photo

23.12.2019 - 14:48:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Daniel, In the videos we usually use different yarns, and / or different stitch / row numbers. They are only to show you the principles of how to do things, not a step by step video on how to do each pieces from the beginning to the end. Happy Crafting!

24.12.2019 kl. 17:47:

country flag Doris Klein wrote:

Die Pantoffeln sind wunderschön geworden. Und dank der exakten Anleitung sehr leicht zu stricken. Toll!

18.10.2016 - 13:10:

country flag Marion Bouthoorn wrote:

Zou graag willen weten vanaf welk punt jullie elke keer de behaalde cm meten?

09.07.2016 - 18:42:

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Marion. Vanaf de opzetnaald tenzij anders wordt vermeld in het patroon.

11.07.2016 kl. 13:49:

country flag Marion Bouthoorn wrote:

Als ik na 6 cm, met 25 steken aan de verkorte toeren ga beginnen, wat doe ik dan met de overige 14 steken?

27.06.2016 - 22:15:

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Marion. Je breit een keer heen en weer over de eerste 25 st, daarna ga je verder over alle st.

29.06.2016 kl. 12:47:

country flag EmmaLee wrote:

I made a pair of these for my daughter and she loved them

06.02.2016 - 15:14:

country flag Mme Janvier T wrote:

Car je ne vois pas combien de mailles il faut que je fasse sur mes rangs raccourci (je suis débutante et ne comprend pas encore très bien les tutoriels). je suppose qu'a 14 cm il me faut 21m raccourcie, qu'a 22 il m'en faut 18 mais je ne vois pas combien il en faut à 30cm. je ne sais pas si je me suis bien exprimer. et entre mes rangs raccourcie, dois je tricoté la totalité de mes mailles c'est a dire les 33? merci de l'aide que vous m'apporterez

01.11.2015 - 11:32:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Janvier, à 14, 22 et 30 cm, tricotez les rangs raccourcis comme vous avez fait à 6 cm: tricotez 21 m, tournez et tricotez le rang retour - continuez ensuite comme avant . Bon tricot!

02.11.2015 kl. 08:26:

country flag Janvier wrote:

Bonjour, je suis bloquée au passage qui demande à 10.5cm de hauteur total de continuer en beige clair. il nous ai demandé de tricoter des rangs raccourci comme avant quand le chausson mesure 14 puis 22 et enfin 30cm. pouvez vous m'éclairez?

01.11.2015 - 11:31:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Janvier, à 10.5 cm, continuez en beige clair et tricotez les rangs raccourcis comme avant à 14 cm - à 18 cm, placez 1 marqueur = milieu du chausson - tricotez ensuite autant de rangs beige clair après le marqueur que vous en aviez tricoté avant le marqueur - et tricotez des rangs raccourcis encore à 22 et 30 cm. Quand vous avez repris le fil bleu, commencez à diminuer - pliez le chausson au marqueur pour vérifier la hauteur sur la 1ère partie et commencez à diminuer. Bon tricot!

02.11.2015 kl. 08:19:

country flag BIANCO Odile wrote:

J'ai un problème pour les coutures. Pour celle de derrière, on coud un peu de bleu et puis le reste de bleu en l'écartant avec le marron, mais on ne couds pas du haut en bas bleu et puis marron ?

23.06.2015 - 16:19:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bianco, l'assemblage au milieu dos se fait du haut en bas, d'abord en bleu, puis en beige clair. Bon tricot!

23.06.2015 kl. 19:35:

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