DROPS design: Pattern no fa-280
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL -XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-96-108-116-132 cm / 31½"-34½"-37 3/4"-42½"-45 3/4"-52"
Full length: 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''

Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
350-400-400-450-500-550 g color no 913, chiaroscuro
200-200-200-250-250-250 g color no 400, black

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3 mm / US 2.5- or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st and 24 sts x 44 rows in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CROCHET Hook size 3 mm / C - for edge.

DROPS SEASHELL W/HOLES NO 526 – 2 piece in all sizes.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
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DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.75 $ /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
* Switch color to black. Then work short rows, beg from RS as follows (always work the first 3 sts in garter st): Work 3 sts in garter st, stockinette st over the next 55 sts, turn and work back. Work 3 sts in garter st, stockinette st over the next 79 sts, turn and work back. Work 3 sts in garter st, stockinette st over the next 25 sts, turn and work back. Switch color to chiaroscuro. Work 4 ridges back and forth over all sts *, repeat from *-*. 1 repetition = 8 rows at the top and 14 rows at the bottom. NOTE: Work the 4 ridges in chiaroscuro and the short rows in black until finished measurements.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. Beg from RS and work as follows: K 86-86-88-88-90-90, 1 YO, K 2 tog, K 12, 1 YO, K 2 tog, and K the rest of row. On next row K YOs.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth from side to side on circular needle to make room for all the sts. Cast on 144-148-154-158-164-168 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with 2 strands chiaroscuro. Then continue piece with 1 strand chiaroscuro. Work 6 ridges in GARTER ST – see explanation above, AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row from RS insert 1 marker in piece when 46-48-50-52-54-56 sts remain on needle. This marks where to sew in sleeve. Work PATTERN - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue with pattern until piece measures 15-17-18-21-22-26 cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-10 1/4" measured at the shortest, adjust to finish before the 4 ridges. On next row from WS, bind off the first 5 sts for neck, work the rest of row = 139-143-149-153-159-163 sts. Work pattern until piece measures 25-27-30-33-36-40 cm / 9 3/4"-10½"-11 3/4"-13"-14 1/4"-15 3/4" (10-10-12-12-14-14 cm / 4"-4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5½"-5½" from dec for neck), adjust to finish before the 4 ridges. Cast on 5 new sts at the end of next row from RS = 144-148-154-158-164-168 sts. Continue as before. When piece measures 40-44-48-54-58-66 cm / 15 3/4"-17 1/4"-19"-21 1/4"-22 3/4"-26" - adjust to finish with a whole repetition of pattern, work 2 ridges over all sts with chiaroscuro AT THE SAME TIME insert a marker on last row from RS when 46-48-50-52-54-56 sts remain on needle. This marks where to sew in sleeve. Bind off with 2 strands chiaroscuro.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work from the side to mid front. Cast on 144-148-154-158-164-168 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with 2 strands chiaroscuro. Then continue piece with 1 strand chiaroscuro. Work 6 ridges, AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row from RS insert 1 marker in piece when 46-48-50-52-54-56 sts remain on needle. This marks where to sew in sleeve. Work pattern until piece measures 15-17-18-21-22-26 cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-10 1/4" measured at the shortest, adjust to finish before the 4 ridges. At the end of the next row from RS, cast on 20-20-22-22-24-24 new sts for collar = 164-168-176-180-188-192 sts. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Now continue piece in chiaroscuro.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Work short rows, beg from WS as follows: Work the first 68-68-90-90-108-108 sts, insert 1 marker, turn and work back. Work until 4 sts remain before marker, turn and work back. Continue like this by working 4 sts less on every turn until 13-13-18-18-22-22 ridges have been worked in total. When short rows are done, work in garter st over all sts until piece measures 10-10-12-12-14-14 cm / 4"-4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5½"-5½". AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' at the widest, inc 1 st at the end of next row from RS, repeat inc every 4th row 3-3-3-3-6-6 more times then on every row from RS 14-14-18-18-17-17 times = 182-186-198-202-212-216 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 9-9-11-11-13-13 cm / 3½"-3½"-4½"-4½"-5"-5", dec for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above, on next row from RS. Work 1 ridge in black. Bind off with 2 strands black.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work from mid front to the side. Cast on 182-186-198-202-212-216 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with 2 strands black. Then continue piece with 1 strand black. Work 1 ridge AT THE SAME TIME on row from WS insert 1 marker after 38-38-44-44-48-48 sts. Switch color to chiaroscuro.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! Work in garter st over all sts AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row from RS, dec 1 st at the end of row by K tog the last 2 sts, repeat dec on every row from RS 13-13-17-17-16-16 more times, then every 4th row 4-4-4-4-7-7 times = 164-168-176-180-188-192 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', work short rows as follows – beg from WS: Work until marker, turn and work back. Work 4 sts after marker, turn and work back. Continue like this by working 4 sts more on every turn until 13-13-18-18-22-22 ridges have been worked in total. When short rows have been worked, piece measures approx. 10-10-12-12-14-14 cm / 4"-4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5½"-5½". Insert 1 marker in piece, now measure piece from here.

On next row from WS, bind off the first 20-20-22-22-24-24 sts = 144-148-154-158-164-168 sts on needle. Work pattern until piece measures 15-17-18-21-22-26 cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-10 1/4" measured at the shortest, adjust to finish before the 4 ridges. Work 6 ridges over all sts with chiaroscuro, AT THE SAME TIME on last row from RS insert 1 marker in piece when 46-48-50-52-54-56 sts remain on needle (seen from RS). This marks where to sew in sleeve. Bind off with 2 strands chiaroscuro.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 56-58-60-62-64-66 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with 2 strands black. Then continue piece with 1 strand black. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch color to chiaroscuro and work in garter st until piece measures 4 cm / 1½''. Then work in stockinette st. Insert 1 marker at the beg of round. When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', inc 1 st on each side of marker, repeat inc every 2½-2-2-2-1½-1½ cm / 7/8"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-½"-½" 17-18-19-20-21-22 more times = 92-96-100-104-108-112 sts. When piece measures 54-53-52-50-49-46 cm / 21 1/4"-21"-20½"-19 3/4"-19 1/4"-18" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), bind off all sts.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew side seams from marker and down. Sew in sleeves with WS outwards. Sew shawl collar tog mid back and sew it to the neckline. Sew the buttons on to left band.

CROCHET EDGE:
Crochet an edge around the bottom edge of jacket, beg at the bottom of left front piece. Work with black on hook size 3 mm / C as follows: 1 sc, * ch 3, 1 dc in 1st ch, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'', 1 sc *, repeat from *-* around the entire jacket. Fasten off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knitting direction
diagram
signature-image

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 157-13) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (70)

country flag Lynn Travers Despins wrote:

Hello...still having difficulty with short rows on R side & L front sides. R side short rows I turn before the 22 sts and work the 22 stitches only when short rows are done. The left side it seems that I have no choice but to knit the 22 stitches on every turn then work WSide back down to marker and add 4 stitches., etc...The L front collar will be larger than the R front in this case...

31.05.2021 - 15:12:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Travers Despins, the left front piece is worked the same way but just reversed, ie you start from the mid front towards the shoulder, work the short rows the same way over the stitches on collar, maybe looking at the right front piece from WS could be help you to get the same number of short rows worked on both front pieces?

01.06.2021 kl. 08:02:

country flag Lynn wrote:

Fa-280. hello..I really need your help. I am having so much trouble with this pattern, I have ripped out so many times I had to buy new yarn. The problem lies with the short rows at the top of the garment for the left and right sides...each time I think I am doing it right I get different results for both sides and have to restart. When we cast on the 22 stitches I am assuming we do not work the 22 stitches when doing the short rows, am I understanding and same thing for the other side.

08.05.2021 - 19:19:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lynn, you are right, when you cast on the stitches for the collar, and then do the short rows, the shortrow turns do not reach the collar-stitches, they are only knitted in the full rows (rows knitted on every stitches). Happy Knitting!

09.05.2021 kl. 22:21:

country flag Lynn wrote:

Fa-280 Hello, I am a visual person and am not understanding how to do the short rows for the left side of the sweater. I placed my marker at the 44th stitch and with all the decreases, my marker is not in line with the 22 stitch from the first stitch WSide. I am stuck there to do the short rows...compared to the right side where I placed my first marker at the 90th stitch. I wish there was a video for mirror short rows. Thank you for your time. \r\nRegards Lynn

01.05.2021 - 19:37:

country flag Carmen-Gabriela wrote:

Hallo:) Hier sind die verk. Reihen nicht synchron (nicht wie bei 145-23 od. 178-26) Kann es sein, dass sich somit das untere Teil auf eine Seite zieht, in Strickrichtung? (sich um einen wickelt?) Ich habe es ab der rückwärtigen Mitte gegengleich versucht, da wippen aber die "Fächer" nicht so schön. - Was meinen Sie? - Wieder ein sehr schönes Modell:)!

04.06.2020 - 17:58:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Carmen-Gabriela, am besten zeigen Sie Ihr Strickstück Ihrem DROPS Laden - auch ein Foto per mail senden, damit kan man dort Ihnen am besten weiterhelfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.06.2020 kl. 07:22:

country flag Birgit Bang-Jensen wrote:

Fejl i opskrift? Højre forstykke, str S. Forkortede p over totalt 13 p retstrik. Derefter ret til 10 cm = ca 6 cm efter forkortede p. Venstreforstykke (spejlvendt) Retstrik til 4 cm. Forkortede p over totalt 26 p ret. Mens der 13 ell 26 p ??? NB. Højre forstykke er strikket !!!

08.04.2018 - 08:26:

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Birgit. Du har helt ret, der strikkes forkortede pinde over 26 pinde ret (ikke 13) det er nu rettet i opskriften. Tak for info!

12.04.2018 kl. 15:43:

country flag Magali wrote:

Bonjour, il est écrit "les manches se tricotent en rond sur aiguilles doubles pointes", pouvez-vous m'expliquer ? Les aiguilles doubles pointes sont droites, n'est-ce pas ? Donc comment tricoter en rond ? Merci beaucoup de votre aide. Magali

16.03.2018 - 10:45:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Magali, cette vidéo montre comment monter les mailles sur les aiguilles doubles pointes pour tricoter en rond (et en jersey dans la vidéo) et celle-ci montre comment tricoter du point mousse, en rond, sur aiguilles doubles pointes. Bon tricot!

16.03.2018 kl. 11:27:

country flag Marianne wrote:

Ifølge opskriften er højre og venstre forstykke meget forskellige. På højre forstykke laves de forkorte pinde lige efter, at der er slået m op til hals og dermed omkring 10 cm fra forkanten, og der strikkes kun 13 forkortede p. På venstre forstykke strikkes de tættere på forkanten (efter 4 cm), og der strikkes 26 p. Jeg synes, at det virker meget mærkeligt, og at det ikke ser pænt ud.

09.10.2017 - 21:56:

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marianne, har du set at højre forstykke strikkes fra siden til midt foran og venstre forstykke strikkes fra midt foran til siden? De skal naturligvis se ligedan ud. God fornøjelse!

12.10.2017 kl. 12:28:

country flag Gisela wrote:

Ist mir immer noch nicht klar. Ich verstehe das jetzt so: nach der Aufnahme von 22M. für den Kragen stricke ich über 18 Krausrippen die verkürzten Reihen. Danach eine Rück-R. über alle Maschen. Danach stricke ich 4cm weiter. Und erst dann (!) nehme ich am Ende jeder 4. R. je 1 M. zu (3x). Danach 18x 1M. jede 2. R. Und 11cm ab Ende der verkürzten R. stricke ich die Knopflöcher. Ist das so korrekt?

04.09.2017 - 12:29:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Gisela, 4 cm nach den neuen Maschen für den Kragen fangen Sie die Zunahmen für den Kragen, sonnst stimmt alles. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.09.2017 kl. 13:41:

country flag Gisela wrote:

Mime. Deras (weiter unten) meinte jedoch, dass man mit den Zunahmen für den Kragen schon anfangen muss, wenn man die verkürzten Reihen strickt, d.h. die 4cm werden ab den 22 M. Kragenzunahmen gemessen. Das ist in der Anleitung sehr unklar.

04.09.2017 - 10:53:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Gisela, die 20-20-22-22-24-24 Maschen für den Kragen sind früher zugenommen, nach diesen 4 cm nehmen Sie für den Kragen (gegen vorne Mitte) zu. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.09.2017 kl. 11:16:

country flag Gisela wrote:

Ich bin beim rechten Vorderteil und habe die verkürzten Reihen abgeschlossen mit einer Rückrunde über alle Maschen. Verstehe ich es richtig, dass ich jetzt 4cm weiterstricke und dann auf der Kragenseite mit den Zunahmen beginne?

03.09.2017 - 16:38:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Gisele, ja genau, diese Zunahmen sind für den Kragen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.09.2017 kl. 10:38:

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