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  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
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  4. DROPS
  5. 157
  6. 18

Shining Star by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket with lace pattern and shawl collar in ”Merino Extra Fine”. Size: S - XXXL.

Keywords: 3/4 sleeves, bottom up, jacket, lace, seamless sleeves, shawl collar, wide sleeves

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DROPS 157-18
DROPS design: Pattern no me-069
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 102-108-116-128-138-152 cm / 40"-42½"-45 3/4"-50½"-54 1/4"-60"
Full length: 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''

Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
550-650-700-750-800-900 g color no 08, light beige

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get 14 dc = width 10 cm / 4'', or to get A.2 = width 7.5 cm / 3''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool 		from 4.00 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.00$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row with 3 ch.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.3.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth. Work 83-87-93-101-111-121 ch on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Merino Extra Fine.
Then work as follows from RS: Work A.1 – see explanation above, over the first 8 ch, NOTE: Replace 1st dc with 3 ch – see CROCHET INFO above, A.2 over the next 12-12-12-12-24-24 ch, A.3 over the next ch 5, 1 dc in each of the next 4-6-9-13-6-11 ch, A.1, A.2, A.3, 1 dc in each of the next 4-6-9-13-6-11 ch, A.1, A.2 over the next 12-12-12-12-24-24 ch and A.3.
Then repeat A.z vertically until finished measurements.

NOTE: On 1st row in A.z (= from WS) work as follows: Work A.3, A.2 1-1-1-1-2-2 times in width, A.1, 3 ch (replace 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 2-4-7-11-4-9 dc, 3 ch (replace 1 dc), 1 sc in next st, A.3, A.2, A.1, 3 ch (replace 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 2-4-7-11-4-9 dc, 3 ch (replace 1 dc), 1 sc in next st, A.3, A.2 1-1-1-1-2-2 times in width and A.1. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!

When piece measures approx. 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm / 17¾''-18''-18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾'', adjust to finish with 2nd row in A.z - cut the yarn. Then work sleeves as follows: Work 29 loose ch, beg from WS and continue A.3, A.2 and A.1 and dc over back piece as before and finish with 31 loose ch, turn piece. Now work 1st row in A.1-A.3 over ch from RS, AT THE SAME TIME continue with pattern over back piece as before (i.e. work 4th row in A.z over these sts) as follows:

Work 1 dc in each of the first ch 6, A.1 over the next 8 ch, A.2 2 times in width (i.e. work last A.2 over the last ch 5, then work the rest of A.2 over A.1), work A.2 1-1-1-1-2-2 times in width as before, A.3, 1 dc in each of the next 4-6-9-13-6-11 dc, A.1, A.2, A.3, 1 dc in each of the next 4-6-9-13-6-11 dc, A.1, A.2 1-1-1-1-2-2 times in width, then work A.2 2 times in width (i.e. work the first A.2 over A.3 and the next 6 ch), A.3 over the next 5 ch and 1 dc in each of the last 6 ch. Continue this pattern until piece measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm / 24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8'' - adjust to finish after a row from WS. Then finish each shoulder/sleeve separately as follows:

RIGHT SHOULDER/SLEEVE:
Work 6 dc, A.1 1 time and A.2 3-3-3-3-4-4 times, A.3, 1 dc in each of the next 4-6-9-13-6-11 dc. Turn and work pattern as before. Continue like this until piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8'' in total, adjust to finish with a whole repetition of A.z. Fasten off.

LEFT SHOULDER/SLEEVE:
Work the left shoulder/sleeve the same way but reversed, work A.1 instead of A.3 at beg of row.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth. Work 63-65-70-74-81-86 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Merino Extra Fine. Work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each of the next 5-5-7-7-9-9 ch (= band), A.1 over the next 8 ch, A.2 over the next 12 ch, A.3 over the next ch 5, 1 dc in each of the next 4-6-9-13-6-11 ch, A.1 over the next 8 ch, A.2 over the next 12-12-12-12-24-24 ch, A.3 over the last 5 ch. Then repeat A.z vertically until finished measurements.

NOTE: On 1st row in A.z (= from WS) work as follows: Work A.3, A.2 1-1-1-1-2-2 times in width, A.1, 3 ch (replace 1 dc), 1 sc in next st, 1 dc in each of the next 2-4-7-11-4-9 dc, 3 ch (replace 1 dc), A.3, A.2, A.1, 3 ch (replace 1 dc), 1 sc in next st, 1 dc in each of the next 5-5-7-7-9-9 dc.

When piece measures approx. 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm / 17¾''-18''-18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾'', adjust to finish with 2nd row in A.z. Cut the yarn. Then work 29 loose ch for sleeve and continue as on back piece. When piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8'', adjust to finish with a whole repetition of A.z (i.e. last row is from RS) - cut the yarn. Then work shawl collar.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Work shawl collar back and forth, beg from RS as follows: Work 1 dc in each of the first 6-6-8-8-10-10 dc, 1 dc in first dc on A.1, * 3 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, 1 dc in next dc, * 3 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, 1 dc in last dc in A.3, 0-0-0-1-1-1 dc in next dc = 27-27-29-30-32-32 dc.
Then work short rows over band sts as follows:
ROW 1 (WS): 5 sc, 5 hdc, 17-17-19-20-22-22 dc
ROW 2 (RS): Work 1 dc in each of the 27-27-29-30-32-32 sts.
Repeat these 2 rows until piece measures approx. 10 cm / 4'' on the most narrow part – adjust to finish with 2nd row (RS).
Fasten off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right but reversed. Work according to diagram A.3 instead of A.1 at beg of row. When piece measures 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm / 17¾''-18''-18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾'', adjust to finish with 2nd row in A.z, work as before over front piece from WS, then work 31 loose ch for sleeve. When piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8'', adjust to finish with a whole repetition of A.z (i.e. last row is from RS), work shawl collar. NOTE: There is no need to cut the yarn.

ASSEMBLY:
Place front pieces on top of back piece and work the shoulders as follows: 1 sc through both layers, * ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* along the entire shoulder/sleeve and finish with 1 sc. Work the sides tog as follows: 1 sc, * ch 3, 1 sc in ch-space on next row *, repeat from *-* along the entire side and finish with 1 sc. Work tog under sleeves as follows: * 1 sc in ch in next ch-space, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sc.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 sl st in st
symbols = 1 sl st around ch-space
symbols = 1 dc around ch-space
symbols = 1 dc in st
symbols = work 1 dc but wait with last pull through, work 1 dc in next st but now pull last YO through all 3 sts on hook
symbols = work 1 dc but wait with last pull through, work 1 dc in next st, but wait the last pull through, work 1 dc in next st but now pull last YO through all 4 sts on hook
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 157-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (192)

country flag Anna wrote:

Und, bitte wo ist erklärt, wie ich die Stäbchengruppen häkle? Wieviele, in welche Stäbchen usw? Das wäre bitte auch extrem nett, wenn Ihr mir da helfen könntet. Vielen Dank!

29.01.2023 - 11:22

country flag Anna wrote:

Liebes Drops-Team, ich verzweifle bei dieser Anleitung langsam. Wie häkle ich an den Blendenstäbchen hoch? Ich finde das nicht in der Anleitung und auch nicht im Video.... Es wird ja nur das Rückenteil erklärt im Video.... Ich finde dazu auch nichts in einer anderen Sprache - bitte um kurze Erklärung. Vielen lieben Dank.

28.01.2023 - 20:40

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anna, für die Blenden häkelt man einfach Stäbchen, dh 1 Stb in die 5-5-7-7-9-9 Stb am Anfang der Hinreihe / am Ende der Rückreihe beim rechten Vorderteil z.B. - (gleichzeitig 3 Lm vor den BlendeMaschen bei der 1. Reihe in A.z häkeln - wie unter BITTE BEACHTEN. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

30.01.2023 kl. 09:10

country flag Lana Sommer Bloedow wrote:

Como vc ser a gola xaile com uma explicação fácil de entender? Podem me ajudar?

28.09.2022 - 20:24

country flag Lana Dommer Bloedow wrote:

Como se faz a gola xaile Explicação simples e fácil de entender.

28.09.2022 - 20:22

country flag Lana Sommer Obrigafs wrote:

Explicar melhor como se faz a gola. Talvez tirar uma foto bem aberta, para poder ver os pontos feitos. Gosto de fazer vendo o modelo pronto, copiando os pontos. Se possível, me orientem? Obrigada!

28.09.2022 - 20:13

country flag Ambra Gregorio-Bäthge wrote:

Mi la persona che scrive le spiegazioni di questo bel cardigan è VERAMENTE competente? Vorrei tanto iniziare questo bellissimo lavoro, ma 19 pagine di risposte a richieste di ulteriori spiegazioni oltre a quelle iniziali, mi fanno pensare che sia un'impresa forse troppo difficile per me, benché io lavori all'uncinetto da più di 40 anni! In tutti questi anni di esperienza, ho notato che se un lavoro è BEN SPIEGATO, non è necessario chiedere aiuto "perché non si capisce"... 👎 😬

01.04.2022 - 04:44

country flag Frédérique wrote:

C’est bon, j’ai trouvé mon erreur! Le A2 de la deuxième série se fait une fois sur 12 mailles et non 2 fois sur 24 mailles. Ce sont les 12 mailles qui me manquaient. :)

18.11.2021 - 00:04

country flag Frédérique wrote:

Bonjour, j’ai déjà un problème dès le 1er rang du dos. J’ai monté 111 mailles pour la taille XXL, mais cela ne suffit pas. Il en faudrait 123 selon mes calculs: A1+A2+A3+6B+A1+A2+A3+6B+A1+A2+A3= 8 + 24+ 5 + 6B+ 8+24+5+6B+8+24+5=123. Ou alors, j’ai mal compris. .. Merci de votre aide

17.11.2021 - 23:42

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Frédérique, crochetez ainsi vos 111 mailles en l'air: A.1 = 8 m, A.2 = 24 m, A.3 = 5 m, 6 brides, A.1 = 8 m, A.2 =12 m, A.3 = 5 m, 6 brides, A.1 = 8 m, A.2 = 24 m, A.3 = 5 m soit 8+24+5+6+8+12+5+6+8+24+5=111 mailles. En espérant que ceci puisse vous aider. Bon crochet!

18.11.2021 kl. 08:46

country flag Frances Miller wrote:

I know the back piece has instructions to make left shoulder and right shoulder but do you make the shoulder for the front pieces too?

13.11.2021 - 19:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Frances, since you have separate right and left pieces for the fronts, and the collar is knitted on, you will have instructions for increasin on the sleeves, and how to do the colar, but since there are no stitches cast off for the neckline, no need to mark the shoulders separately. Happy Stitching.

14.11.2021 kl. 00:27

country flag Saba Hatem wrote:

Hi,in written patren, in back piece, raw 9(,A.1, A.2 over the next 12-12-12-12-24-24 ch).I think a1 is incorrect and only a2 is correct،Is this true?

01.06.2021 - 05:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hatem, do you mean at the very beginning of back piece? Written pattern is correct, you start with A.1, then repeat A.2 a total of 2 or 4 times (see size), and finish with A.3 = that's the whole lace pattern to work - then you work these one more time at the end of the row. Happy crocheting!

01.06.2021 kl. 08:33

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What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
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