DROPS / 158 / 6

Chloe by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS hat, neck warmer and wrist warmers in garter st with rib in ”Alpaca”.

DROPS design: Pattern no z-687
Yarn group A
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NECK WARMER:
Size: S/M - L/XL
Circumference measured flat: 40-44 cm / 15 3/4"-17 1/4" at the top and 104-112 cm / 41"-44" at the bottom
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
150-150 g color no 4434, purple/violet

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 cm / 16" and 24") SIZE 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

HAT:
Size: S/M - L/XL
Head circumference: 54/56 - 56/58 cm / 21''/22'' - 22''/23''
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
100-100 g color no 4434, purple/violet

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

WRIST WARMERS:
Size: one-size
Circumference: approx. 20 cm / 8''
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
50 g color no 4434, purple/violet

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
WIDE GARTER ST PATTERN 1:
* P 3 rounds, K 4 rounds *, repeat from *-*, 1 ridge = 7 rounds.

WIDE GARTER ST PATTERN 2:
* P 3 rounds, K 8 rounds *, repeat from *-*, 1 ridge = 11 rounds.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec before every marker as follows: Work until 3 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 1.
Dec after every marker as follows: K 2 tog.
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NECK WARMER:
Worked in the round on circular needle from bottom up. Loosely cast on 253-273 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Alpaca. Then work WIDE GARTER ST PATTERN 1 - see explanation above, over the first 120-130 sts, work the next 12 sts as follows: K 2, P 3, K 2 (= mid front), P 3 and K 2, wide garter st pattern over the next 121-131 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round and continue with wide garter st pattern and rib this way until 1 ridge in wide garter st pattern has been worked vertically. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE AND READ THE ENTIRE SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! After one whole ridge in wide garter st pattern vertically, work 5 new sts on each side of rib at the front with rib pattern, i.e. work 5 sts before rib K 2, P 3, after rib work P 3 and K 2. AT THE SAME TIME insert 6 markers in the piece. Insert first marker 45 sts before beg of round, then insert the other markers 18 sts apart. Dec at these markers on first row in every section in stockinette st but alternately 6 and 12 sts. When 6 sts are dec, dec alternately before and after markers (i.e. dec 1 st at each marker). When 12 sts are dec, dec before and after markers (dec 2 sts at each marker).
Continue to dec at the markers and work more and more sts into rib. Dec 10 times in total, after all dec 3 sts remain between each marker. Continue to work sts into rib until there are no more sts in wide garter st pattern. Continue to work rib until rib measures approx. 8 cm / 3 1/8'' measured from where last wide garter st pattern ended (= mid back). Bind off sts with K over K and P over P.

HAT:
Worked in the round on circular needle and then on double pointed needles.
Cast on 120-130 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Alpaca and K 1 row. Then work rib with P 3 and K 2 until piece measures 3-4 cm / 1"-1½". K 1 round while dec 1-4 sts evenly = 119-126 sts. Now work WIDE GARTER ST PATTERN 1 - see explanation above, 4 times in total. Then K 4 rounds. Work WIDE GARTER ST PATTERN 2 - see explanation above, 4 times or until piece measures approx. 22 cm / 8 3/4'' vertically lightly pulled, adjust to work 1 whole ridge in wide garter st pattern. Then P 3 rounds. Insert 7 markers in piece 17-18 sts between every marker. Now work in stockinette st from here AT THE SAME TIME dec 2 sts at every marker - see DECREASE TIP above. Dec like this on every 3rd round 4 times in total, then every other round 3 times in total = 21-28 sts remain on needle. On next round K 1-0 and K 2 and 2 tog = 11-14 sts remain on needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through sts, tighten tog and fasten.

WRIST WARMERS:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Loosely cast on 48 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Alpaca. Work WIDE GARTER ST PATTERN 1 - see explanation above, 7 times in total, then K 4 rounds. Then work WIDE GARTER ST PATTERN 2 - see explanation above, 6 times in total. Finish with P 3 round, K 1 round and loosely bind off with K. Knit another wrist warmer the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 01.10.2014
HAT: (Cast on 120-130 sts AND dec 1-4 sts evenly) Cast on 120-130 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Alpaca and K 1 row. Then work rib with P 3 and K 2 until piece measures 3-4 cm / 1\"-1½\". K 1 round while dec 1-4 sts evenly = 119-126 sts.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 158-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (27)

Maria Walczak 30.01.2020 - 11:03:

Dear Drops, do I get the desreasing right? I decrease each knitting section 6-12-6-12-6-12-6-12-6-12 sticthes? And 6 decrease row I decrease once right, once left side of the marker? Thanks in advance for the clarification. BR/Maria

DROPS Design 30.01.2020 kl. 16:58:

Witaj Mario! Zamykamy na przemian 6 i 12 o., tzn. w jednym okrążeniu zamykamy 6 o., a w drugim 12 o. i powtarzamy tę sekwencję 5 razy (w 5 okrążeniach zamykamy 6 o. i w 5 okr. zamykamy 12 o.). Gdy zamykamy 6 o., zamykać na przemian przed i za markerami (tzn. w jednym okrążeniu zamykać 1 oczko przed każdym markerem, a w kolejnym okrążeniu, czyli tam gdzie zamykamy 6 o., zamknąć 1 oczko za każdym markerem; zamykamy 1 o. w miejscu każdego markera). Gdy zamykamy 12 o., zamykać przed i za markerami jednocześnie (zamknąć 2 o. w miejscu każdego markera). Pozdrawiamy!

Trine Nielsen 14.10.2019 - 10:18:

Venligst svar, sendte mit spørgsmål for 14 dage siden: Hvor OFTE skal jeg inkl 2X5 m mere i ribben? På HVER omgang eller KUN på de omgange, hvor jeg tager ind - altså på hvert glatstriksparti. Sætter jeg mærketrådene rigtigt: find midt bag, 9 m til højre, mærketråd, 18 m til højre, mærketråd, 18 m til højre og mærketråd. Det samme til venstre. Mange har tilsyneladende problemer - kan ikke forstå, at I ikke opdaterer opskriften, så den bliver til at forstå

Trine Nielsen 02.10.2019 - 08:39:

Hvor OFTE skal jeg inkl 2X5 m mere i ribben? På HVER omgang eller KUN på de omgange, hvor jeg tager ind - altså på hvert glatstriksparti. Sætter jeg mærketrådene rigtigt: find midt bag, 9 m til højre, mærketråd, 18 m til højre, mærketråd, 18 m til højre og mærketråd. Det samme til venstre. Kan se, at jeg ikke er den eneste, der har problemer - kan ikke forstå, at I ikke opdaterer opskriften, så den bliver til at forstå

Trine Nielsen 28.09.2019 - 09:12:

Hvor ofte, skal man strikke flere masker med ind i ribben (5 masker før og efter rib) - står ikke i opskriften, så vidt jeg kan se

DROPS Design 01.10.2019 kl. 15:36:

Hej Trine, det gør du til der ikke er flere masker i pølserillerne. God fornøjelse!

Solveig 06.02.2019 - 10:11:

I beskrivningen till halsvärmaren står det inte om det ska vara bullig rätstickning 1 eller 2?

DROPS Design 08.02.2019 kl. 15:38:

Hej Solveig, nu är det lagt till, det skall vara bullig rätstickning 1. Lycka till!

Monica 30.11.2018 - 21:35:

Buonasera, sto realizzando una taglia L/XL del cappello, è corretto mettere il primo segnapunti dopo 18 m? Grazie, saluti.

DROPS Design 30.11.2018 kl. 22:49:

Buonasera Monica, è corretto inserire il primo segnapunti dopo 18 maglie. Sono 7 segnapunti compreso quello di inizio giro. Buon lavoro!

Lucy 19.11.2018 - 20:31:

On what row should I start decreasing sts?

Mila 14.02.2018 - 14:54:

Ich glaube, bei der Pulswärmeranleitung fehlt die Angabe für das Daumenloch. Wie stricke ich das?

DROPS Design 14.02.2018 kl. 18:49:

Liebe Mila, diese Pulswärmer haben kein Loch für das Daumen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Anja Velure 06.12.2017 - 13:58:

Hei. Jeg er ferdig med halsen men passformen er ikke lik den på bildet. Den er alt for trang for å nå over skuldrene og fellingen bak gjøre at det bølger seg. Jeg er str M men strikket str L. Den passer til min 11år gml datter, men sitter ikke pent . Hva kan jeg endre for å få en like den på bildet? Fasongen ligner heller ikke på den tegnede når jeg legger halsen flatt.

DROPS Design 07.12.2017 kl. 14:12:

Hej Anja, det er svært at svare på hvor det er gået galt... men har du målt strikkefastheden så du har 24 m i bredden og 32 pinde glatstrik i højden på 10x10 cm?

Eli Sola Erga 28.11.2017 - 00:04:

Hei. Har problemer med å plassere merketrådene (for fellingene) riktig på halsen. Kommer skjevt ut fra første merketråd.... Mener dere første merktråd ved de siste 45 m før der omg startet (altså midt bak)? Eller skal det være 45 m ut etter omg start? Og hvor skal jeg så telle de neste 18 m fra? Fra første merketråd (45 siste før starten/evt. 45 m ut etter starten) eller 18 m etter der omgangen starter? De seks merktrådene kommer alle uansett kun på den ene siden av halsen.....

DROPS Design 13.12.2017 kl. 10:59:

Hej, Hvis du begynder med at markere starten av omg. Tæller 45 masker til højre for starten og sætter 1 mærketråd, tæller 18 m og sætter næste mærketråd, tæller 18 m og sætter 3. mærketråd, fortsæt til du har sat 6 mærketråde (ud over den som markerer starten af omgangen). Nu har du 6 mærketråde som er jævnt fordelt over den halve stykke og det er her du foretager dine indtagninger. God fornøjelse!

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