DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 158-6
DROPS design: Pattern no z-687
Yarn group A
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NECK WARMER:
Size: S/M - L/XL
Circumference measured flat: 40-44 cm / 15 3/4"-17 1/4" at the top and 104-112 cm / 41"-44" at the bottom
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
150-150 g color no 4434, purple/violet

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 cm / 16" and 24") SIZE 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

HAT:
Size: S/M - L/XL
Head circumference: 54/56 - 56/58 cm / 21''/22'' - 22''/23''
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
100-100 g color no 4434, purple/violet

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

WRIST WARMERS:
Size: one-size
Circumference: approx. 20 cm / 8''
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
50 g color no 4434, purple/violet

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
WIDE GARTER ST PATTERN 1:
* P 3 rounds, K 4 rounds *, repeat from *-*, 1 ridge = 7 rounds.

WIDE GARTER ST PATTERN 2:
* P 3 rounds, K 8 rounds *, repeat from *-*, 1 ridge = 11 rounds.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec before every marker as follows: Work until 3 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 1.
Dec after every marker as follows: K 2 tog.
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NECK WARMER:
Worked in the round on circular needle from bottom up. Loosely cast on 253-273 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Alpaca. Then work WIDE GARTER ST PATTERN 1 - see explanation above, over the first 120-130 sts, work the next 12 sts as follows: K 2, P 3, K 2 (= mid front), P 3 and K 2, wide garter st pattern over the next 121-131 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round and continue with wide garter st pattern and rib this way until 1 ridge in wide garter st pattern has been worked vertically. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE AND READ THE ENTIRE SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! After one whole ridge in wide garter st pattern vertically, work 5 new sts on each side of rib at the front with rib pattern, i.e. work 5 sts before rib K 2, P 3, after rib work P 3 and K 2. AT THE SAME TIME insert 6 markers in the piece. Insert first marker 45 sts before beg of round, then insert the other markers 18 sts apart. Dec at these markers on first row in every section in stockinette st but alternately 6 and 12 sts. When 6 sts are dec, dec alternately before and after markers (i.e. dec 1 st at each marker). When 12 sts are dec, dec before and after markers (dec 2 sts at each marker).
Continue to dec at the markers and work more and more sts into rib. Dec 10 times in total, after all dec 3 sts remain between each marker. Continue to work sts into rib until there are no more sts in wide garter st pattern. Continue to work rib until rib measures approx. 8 cm / 3 1/8'' measured from where last wide garter st pattern ended (= mid back). Bind off sts with K over K and P over P.

HAT:
Worked in the round on circular needle and then on double pointed needles.
Cast on 120-130 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Alpaca and K 1 row. Then work rib with P 3 and K 2 until piece measures 3-4 cm / 1"-1½". K 1 round while dec 1-4 sts evenly = 119-126 sts. Now work WIDE GARTER ST PATTERN 1 - see explanation above, 4 times in total. Then K 4 rounds. Work WIDE GARTER ST PATTERN 2 - see explanation above, 4 times or until piece measures approx. 22 cm / 8 3/4'' vertically lightly pulled, adjust to work 1 whole ridge in wide garter st pattern. Then P 3 rounds. Insert 7 markers in piece 17-18 sts between every marker. Now work in stockinette st from here AT THE SAME TIME dec 2 sts at every marker - see DECREASE TIP above. Dec like this on every 3rd round 4 times in total, then every other round 3 times in total = 21-28 sts remain on needle. On next round K 1-0 and K 2 and 2 tog = 11-14 sts remain on needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through sts, tighten tog and fasten.

WRIST WARMERS:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Loosely cast on 48 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Alpaca. Work WIDE GARTER ST PATTERN 1 - see explanation above, 7 times in total, then K 4 rounds. Then work WIDE GARTER ST PATTERN 2 - see explanation above, 6 times in total. Finish with P 3 round, K 1 round and loosely bind off with K. Knit another wrist warmer the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 01.10.2014
HAT: (Cast on 120-130 sts AND dec 1-4 sts evenly) Cast on 120-130 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Alpaca and K 1 row. Then work rib with P 3 and K 2 until piece measures 3-4 cm / 1\"-1½\". K 1 round while dec 1-4 sts evenly = 119-126 sts.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (50)

country flag Marie wrote:

Re-Bonsoir. Merci pour votre réponse d'hier! Rapide! Autre question: lorsqu'on mesure la hauteur du bonnet (avant les diminutions), doit-on étirer les loupes formées par le point godron pour aplatir le tricot ou mesurer en les laissant arrondies? Merci

05.03.2024 - 03:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, étirez légèrement, essayez-le même pourquoi pas, il vous restera juste les tours de diminutions à faire, ainsi vous pourrez mieux vous rendre compte et ajuster la longueur. Bon tricot!

05.03.2024 - 09:22

country flag Marie wrote:

Que voulez-vous dire par "une côte mousse" Je fais le bonnet: après les points de godron 1 ou 2, vous mentionnez de faire une côte mousse mais le total n'équivaut qu'au nombre de rangs du point. C'est quoi une côte mousse? Merci

03.03.2024 - 22:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, on appelle ici 1 côte mousse dans le point de godron les 7 tours du point de godron-1 ou les 11 tours du point de godron-2. Bon tricot!

04.03.2024 - 09:48

country flag Julie Krystal Trnavsky wrote:

1. decreases begin at 45 sts. before end & then come back around at 18 stich intervals. 2. never says to continue in wide garter stich pattern 1, assuming that this pattern continues until only rib remains. 3. decrease at the 6 markers on the first stockinette st (knit row in the pattern?) on first decrease row decrease only 6 times -BEFORE or AFTER marker? Then the next decrease row decrease 12 before and after. 4. decrease 10 times with 3 stitches remaining ea. 18 stitches. HOW?

14.02.2024 - 06:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Trnavsky, you decrease only in the wide garter stitch section, and at the same time, you increase the number of stitches in rib on each side of the rib section (ie work the 5 sts on each side of wide garter stitch section in rib on every ride in wide garter stitch section. So just continue the wide garter stitch sectiosn as before and decrease - see DECREASE TIP alternately 6 sts (first time before each marker, 2nd time after each marker, 3rd time before each marker etc..) then 12 sts (1 st on each side of markers). Happy knitting!

14.02.2024 - 16:15

country flag Anne Thomsen wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke, hvordan jeg sætter de 6 mærketråde i halsedissen. Første tråd ved 45 masker før omg, og 18 masker imellem de andre 5 - men hvor starter og slutter de andre 5?

18.01.2024 - 23:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anne, Midt bak = omgangen start/slutt. Når du skal sette de 6 merkene teller du deg 45 masker "bakover", altså 45 masker før starten. Sett 1. merke her. Så teller du 18 masker "fremover" / mot midt bak, sett 2. merke, tell 18 masker igjen og sett 3. merke, tell 18 masker, sett 4. merke (midt bak er nå mellom 3. og 4. merke). Tell 18 masker sett 5. merke og tell 18 masker og sett 6. merke. Alle de 6 merkene er nå på bakstykket.

19.01.2024 - 11:12

country flag Ine wrote:

Hei! Jeg strikker halsen, har strikket pølserille 1 én gang og skal nå plassere ut maskemarkører. Var forvirret over at det kun skal felles på ene siden. Så i kommentarene at det felles på baksiden. Samtidig er vrangborden midten fremme. Mine maskemarkører 5 og 6 havner v/vrangbord, altså midt foran. Så nå er jeg veldig forvirret. Hvordan skal det felles? Jeg har fulgt instruksjonene for m.markør presist, men det ser veldig skjevt ut. Er det rett? Skal det være sånn?

08.01.2023 - 14:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ina. Midt bak = omgangen start/slutt. Når du skal sette de 6 merkene teller du deg 45 masker "bakover", altså 45 masker før starten. Sett 1. merke her. Så teller du 18 masker "fremover" / mot midt bak, sett 2. merke, tell 18 masker igjen og sett 3. merke, tell 18 masker, sett 4. merke (midt bak er nå mellom 3. og 4. merke). Tell 18 masker sett 5. merke og tell 18 masker og sett 6. merke. Alle de 6 merkene er nå på bakstykket. mvh DROPS Design

16.01.2023 - 09:50

country flag Vicki wrote:

It would be helpful too if you could add a translation link because while I speak only English, I don't speak French or any other language. It would be helpful to see the questions and the answers. Thank you.

17.12.2022 - 19:46

country flag Vicki wrote:

It would be helpful if you could post a photo the fingerless gloves to show that they are with the thumb or without the thumb. Or in the description explain that.

17.12.2022 - 19:43

country flag Rosa wrote:

Buongiorno, x il mod 687 berretto chloe, si lavora con ferri circolari, volevo sapere come non fare lo scalino quando si passa da un riga a diritto ad una a rovescio. Quando si lavora a diritto so come di fa ma quando si passa da lavorazione a maglia rasata diritto a maglia rovescio non so come evitare lo scalino. Grazie, saluti

23.01.2022 - 17:02

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Rosa, può provare a lavorare i giri a diritto passando la 1° maglia di ogni giro a diritto con il filo sul davanti del lavoro e lavorare il resto del giro a diritto. Buon lavoro!

09.02.2022 - 22:18

country flag Marilù wrote:

Grazie mille!!! Come sempre impeccabili!!!

10.12.2021 - 18:34

country flag Marilù wrote:

"Diminuire all’altezza di questi segnapunti sul 1° f in ogni sezione a m rasata ma in modo alternato 6 e 12 m". vuol dire che su una sezione di m. rasata di ogni costa (magari sul 1 giro?) faccio prima 6 dim. (1 volta prima di ogni segno) e la 2 ° dim. di 12 quando viene fatta ? questo intende alterni?

01.12.2021 - 18:12

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Marilù, per le diminuzioni alternate deve diminuire la prima volta 6 maglie e al giro di diminuzioni successivo 12 maglie. Buon lavoro!

08.12.2021 - 19:12