DROPS / 149 / 42

Scallop by DROPS Design

Knitted wide DROPS sweater in garter st with fan pattern in "Delight". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no de-102
Yarn group A
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 152-152-216 cm / 59¾”-59¾”-85”
Full length: 60-60-60 cm / 23½”-23½”-23½”

Materials:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
500-500-600 g color no 02, plum/beige/heather

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm / 16” or 24”) SIZE 4 mm / US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 40 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
1 whole fan measures approx. 18 cm / 7'' in width and 15 cm / 6'' vertically.
2 DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES + CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 3 mm / US 2.5 – for edges in garter st in neck.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 521: 1 piece

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 3.90 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

KNITTING TIP:
If you want the size larger/smaller or shorter/longer adjust by working more/fewer fans in width and more/fewer rows vertically but note that the placement of fans may affect the neckline.
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SWEATER:
Sweater consists of several fans worked together along the way. Beg at the bottom of front piece in the order fans are numbered - see A.1 - (choose diagram for your size). Always pick up new sts from RS.

FRONT PIECE:

FAN 1A:
Cast on 61 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Delight and work as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): K all sts.
ROW 2 (= WS): K all sts.
ROW 3: K 2 tog, K 9, * slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 6 *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, K 3, K 2 tog = 49 sts.
ROW 4-7: K all sts.
ROW 8 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 49 sts/YOs.
ROW 9-10: K all sts.
ROW 11: K 2 tog, K 7, * slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 4 *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, K 3, K 2 tog = 37 sts.
ROW 12-15: K all sts.
ROW 16 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 37 sts/YOs.
ROW 17-18: K all sts.
ROW 19: K 2 tog, K 5, * slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 7 *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 5, K 2 tog = 29 sts.
ROW 20-26: K all sts.
ROW 27: K 2 tog, K 3, * slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 5 *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 3, K 2 tog = 21 sts.
ROW 28-29: K all sts.
ROW 30 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 21 sts/YOs.
ROW 31-34: K all sts.
ROW 35: K 2 tog, K 7, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 7, K 2 tog = 17 sts.
ROW 36-42: K all sts.
ROW 43: K 2 tog, K 5, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 5, K 2 tog = 13 sts.
ROW 44-48: K all sts.
ROW 49: K 2 tog, K 3, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 3, K 2 tog = 9 sts.
ROW 50-54: K all sts.
ROW 55: K 2 tog, K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 1, K 2 tog = 5 sts.
ROW 56-58: K all sts.
ROW 59: K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 1 = 3 sts.
ROW 60: K all sts.
ROW 61: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso = 1 st. Cut the yarn, pull it through st and fasten.

Work FAN 2A, 3A and 4A etc. on 1st row the same way.
1st row with fans has now been worked.

FAN 1B:
Pick up 30 st along FAN 1A's left edge (seen from RS) – i.e. pick up 1 st in every ridge in garter st and approx. 1 st in every row with eyelet holes, and then pick up 31 sts along FAN 2A's right edge (seen from RS) = 61 sts on needle. Then work FAN 1A but from 2nd row (i.e. beg with K from WS).

Work FAN 2B, 3B etc. on 2nd row the same way.

HALF FAN IN LEFT SIDE OF PIECE (seen from RS when piece is flat) – FAN 1C:
Pick up 31 sts along left edge (seen from RS) on last fan on first row.
ROW 1 (= WS): K all sts.
ROW 2 (= RS): K 2 tog, K 9, * slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 6 *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso = 25 sts.
ROW 3-6: K all sts.
ROW 7 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 25 sts/YOs.
ROW 8-9: K all sts.
ROW 10: K 2 tog, K 7, * slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 4 *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso = 19 sts.
ROW 11-14: K all sts.
ROW 15 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 19 sts/YOs.
ROW 16-17: K all sts.
ROW 18: K 2 tog, K 5, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 7, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso = 15 sts.
ROW 19-25: K all sts.
ROW 26: K 2 tog, K 3, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 5, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso = 11 sts.
ROW 27-28: K all sts.
ROW 29 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 11 sts/YOs.
ROW 30-33: K all sts.
ROW 34: K 2 tog, K 7, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso = 9 sts.
ROW 35-41: K all sts.
ROW 42: K 2 tog, K 5, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso = 7 sts.
ROW 43-47: K all sts.
ROW 48: K 2 tog, K 3, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso = 5 sts.
ROW 49-53: K all sts.
ROW 54: K 2 tog, K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso = 3 sts.
ROW 55-59: K all sts.
ROW 60: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso = 1 st. Cut the yarn, pull it through st and fasten.

HALF FAN IN RIGHT SIDE OF PIECE (seen from RS when piece is flat) – FAN 2C:
Pick up 31 sts along FAN 1A's right edge (seen from RS). Then work as FAN 1C but reversed (i.e. on 2nd-10th-18th-26th-34th-42th-48th-54th and 60th row read sentence backwards but beg with K 2 tog and finish with slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso – E.g. work 2nd row as follows: K 2 tog, * K 6, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, K 9, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso = 25 sts).

2nd row with fans has now been worked.

FAN 1D:
Pick up 30 st along FAN 2C's left edge (seen from RS) – i.e. pick up 1 st in every ridge in garter st and approx. 1 st in every row with eyelet holes, pick up 1 st in the tip at the top of FAN 1A and then pick up 30 sts along FAN 1B's right edge (seen from RS) = 61 sts on needle. Then work FAN 1A but from 2nd row (i.e. beg with K from WS).

Work FAN 2D, 3D, 4D etc. the same way.
3rd row with fans has now been worked.

Continue with FAN 1E, 2E, 3E etc. the same way.

FAN 1F:
Work as FAN 1C but pick up 30 sts along left edge on last fan on 3rd row, pick in addition up 1 st in the tip at the top on FAN 1C = 31 sts on needle. Then work as FAN 1C.

FAN 2F:
Pick up 1 st in the tip at the top on fan 2C, then pick up 30 sts along FAN 1D's right edge (seen from RS) = 31 sts on needle. Then work as FAN 2C.
4th row with fans has now been worked.

Continue with FAN 1G, 2G, 3G etc. as before.
5th row with fans has now been worked.

On next row (= 6th row) make a vent mid front, i.e. work 2 half fans instead of 1 whole fan. Work FAN 1H, 2H etc. the same way as FAN 1D with placements as shown in A.1, then work HALF FAN 1I the same way as 1F both in left side of piece and on right side of vent mid front. Work HALF FAN 2I in right side of piece and on left side of vent mid front.
6th row with fans has now been worked.

On 7th row with fans work fans as on 3rd row.

Then work a finishing edge with half circles that evens out the line at the top as follows:

HALF CIRCLE BETWEEN EVERY FAN (FAN 1K, 2K etc):
Pick up from RS, 61 sts along edge between 2 fans – i.e. pick up 1 st in every ridge and approx. 1 st in every row with eyelet holes + 1 st in the middle of two fans at the tip at the top on fan from row below.
Then work as follows:
ROW 1 (= WS): K all sts.
ROW 2 (= RS): K all sts.
ROW 3: K all sts.
ROW 4: * K 3, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains and finish with K 1 = 49 sts.
ROW 5: K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 49 sts/YOs.
ROW 6: K all sts.
ROW 7 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 49 sts/YOs.
ROW 8-14: K all sts.
ROW 15 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 49 sts/YOs.
ROW 16-17: K all sts.
ROW 18: K 2 tog across until 1 st remains, finish with K 1 = 25 sts.
ROW 19-25: K all sts.
ROW 26: K 2 tog across until 1 st remains, finish with K 1 = 13 sts.
ROW 27: K all sts.
ROW 28: K 2 tog across until 1 st remains, finish with K 1 = 7 sts.
ROW 29: K all sts.
ROW 30: K 2 tog across until 1 st remains, finish with K 1 = 4 sts.
ROW 31: K all sts.
ROW 32: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 3 tog and psso = 1 st. Cut the yarn, pull it through st and fasten.

QUARTER CIRCLE ON THE OUTER EDGE IN LEFT SIDE OF PIECE – FAN 1L:
Pick up 30 sts along left edge (seen from RS) on last fan on 7th row, pick in addition up 1 st in the tip at the top on FAN 1I = 31 sts on needle. Then work as follows:
ROW 1 (= WS): K all sts.
ROW 2 (= RS): K all sts.
ROW 3: K all sts.
ROW 4: * K 3, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains and finish with K 1 = 25 sts.
ROW 5: K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 25 sts/YOs.
ROW 6: K all sts.
ROW 7 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 25 sts/YOs.
ROW 8-14: K all sts.
ROW 15 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 25 sts/YOs.
ROW 16-17: K all sts.
ROW 18: K 2 tog across until 1 st remains, finish with K 1 = 13 sts.
ROW 19-25: K all sts.
ROW 26: K 2 tog across until 1 st remains, finish with K 1 = 7 sts.
ROW 27-29: K all sts.
ROW 30: K 2 tog across until 1 st remains, finish with K 1 = 4 sts.
ROW 31: K all sts.
ROW 32: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 3 tog and psso = 1 st. Cut the yarn, pull it through st and fasten.

QUARTER CIRCLE ON THE OUTER EDGE IN RIGHT SIDE OF PIECE – FAN 2L:
Pick up 1 st in the tip at the top on FAN 2I, then pick up 30 sts along right side on first fan on 7th row = 31 sts on needle. Then work as FAN 1L.

BACK PIECE:
Work as front piece but without vent and neckline mid front. I.e. on 6th row work 1 whole fan mid back instead of 2 half and on 8th row work a half circle mid back so that edge at the top is straight.

SLEEVE:
Work piece from mid under sleeve and around the sleeve (see knitting direction on chart).
Cast on 32-36-26 sts (includes 1 edge st in the side) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Delight. Work in garter st back and forth until piece measures 30-32-34 cm / 11¾”-12½”-13½”, loosely bind off. Make another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves inside 1 edge st and sew underarm and side seams in one inside 1 edge st.

GARTER ST IN VENT MID FRONT:
Cast on 4 sts on 1 double pointed needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Delight. K 1 row (= WS), turn piece. Beg at the bottom on left vent (when piece is worn), pick up in the outermost st in garter st in vent (with right needle), work first st on left needle, psso, K the rest of row, turn piece, K from WS over the 4 sts, turn piece, * pick up outermost st in garter st in vent (with right needle), work first st on left needle, psso, K the rest of row, turn piece, K from WS over the 4 sts, turn piece, repeat these 2 rows from *-* until 1 st has been picked up in approx. every st in garter st along the entire vent, then bind off. Repeat along right vent but beg at the top from RS.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up from RS approx. 100 to 110 sts around the neck (also over edges in garter st at the front) on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Delight. K 1 row from WS. K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec for 1 buttonhole in the right side as follows: K tog second and third st from edge and make 1 YO. K 2 rows and then bind off with K from WS.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knitting direction



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 149-42) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (72)

Katarzyna 08.04.2020 - 15:30:

Ile włóczki drops delight potrzebuję, jeżeli chcę z niej zrobić tylko korpus swetra, a rękawy i wykończenia z innej ? Pozdrawiam

DROPS Design 12.04.2020 kl. 16:37:

Witaj Kasiu! Potrzebujesz 450-450-550 g włóczki Delight (zależy od tego jaki rozmiar wykonujesz). Pozdrawiamy

DERAS Marie-Danièle 28.04.2019 - 15:42:

Bonjour je viens de commencer ce magnifique modèle, , mon premier éventail 1 A est terminé, mais je ne vois aucune explication pour faire l ' éventail 2 A en le racordant a l 'éventail 1 A et comment faire pout les éventails situé juste au dessus marci de ce que vous pourrez me dire bonne journée marie danièle deras entail 2A

DROPS Design 29.04.2019 kl. 10:23:

Bonjour Mme Deras, quand l'éventail 1A est terminé, on coupe le fil, on tricote ensuite les éventails 2A, 3A etc de la même façon (= séparément) puis on va tricoter le 2ème rang d'éventails en relevant cette fois les mailles le long des éventails du rang précédent = pour le 1B: 30 m le long du 1A, et 31 m le long du 2A - cf schéma en bas de page pour l'ordre des éventails. Bon tricot!

Ingrid Van Den Bosch 13.01.2019 - 14:22:

Bonjour, existe-t-il un diagramme des différents éventails, car je ne réussis pas avec les explications écrites ? Merci

DROPS Design 14.01.2019 kl. 11:33:

Bonjour Mme Van Den Bosch, il n'y a pas de diagramme pour ce motif, suivez bien les explications pas à pas, rang après rang. Bon tricot!

Ekaterina 12.01.2017 - 12:38:

Hello! When I saw this pattern, I immediately thought it almost ideal for my mother. But I found the measurements for the piece confusing: Bust: 152-152-216 cm / 59¾”-59¾”-85” Is the second measurement right? Could you, please, help me to choose size for 184 cm?

DROPS Design 12.01.2017 kl. 17:05:

Dear Ekaterina, you will find all measurements for each size in measurement chart at the bottom of the page, taken flat from side to side, in cm. Compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size. Read more about sizing here. Happy knitting!

Deirdre Bialo-padin 11.01.2016 - 23:31:

This is a wonderful design!

Woro 11.02.2014 - 13:35:

Ben voilà, j'ai commencé ce modèle et avant de continuer, j'ai une p'ti'question: cela va-t-il changer quelque chose si je tricote le dos et le devant en un seul morceau, en rond, en ne séparant le travail qu'au niveau des emmanchures et de l'encolure? Merci pour les explications de ce magnifique pull. Amicalement.

DROPS Design 11.02.2014 kl. 14:19:

Bonjour Mme Woro, vous pouvez à priori tricoter en un seul tenant, en rond, les premiers motifs, n'oubliez pas de bien vérifier vos motifs et la hauteur pour bien conserver l'emplacement des manches (emmanchures) au bon endroit. Bon tricot!

Wolkenkuckuck 27.12.2013 - 15:13:

Very lovely pattern! Superbe shades. Though it looks quite unusual, for a wee bit experienced knitter must be quite easy. The only thing I would appreciate would be a schematic pattern :) written patterns are so exhausting and more difficult to rememberfor me. Anyway, thanks a lot for publishing this.

Gabriele 29.11.2013 - 19:54:

Habe den Pulli jetzt erst richtig bemerkt - und finde ihn sehr schön. Ich werde ihn in einer knalligen Farbe stricken,etwas länger machen,so kann ich den Pulli anstatt einer Jacke anziehen.

Pagni Milena 23.10.2013 - 19:06:

Meravilioso!!!!!!!!

I,Brühs 04.10.2013 - 20:38:

Ich finde das Modell extravagant,habe bei Lanade Wolle bestellt .Bis auf die Ärmel ist es fertg. Die Beschreibung der Ärmel ist völlig unbefriedigend,

DROPS Design 07.10.2013 kl. 09:29:

Liebe Frau Brühs, die Anleitung der Ärmel ist komplett, denn sie ist sehr einfach. Es wird nur in Krausrippen quer gestrickt wie beschrieben.

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