DROPS / 147 / 12

Cutie by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern in ”Vivaldi”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no oo-098
Yarn group C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-86-96-104-116-130 cm /
31½"-34"-37 3/4"-41"-45 3/4"-51½"
Full length: 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm /
18''-19''-19¾''-20½''-21¼''-22''

Materials:
DROPS VIVALDI from Garnstudio
100-100-100-100-150-150 g color no 15, cerise

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 5 mm / US 8 – or size needed to get 13 sts lace pattern according to A.1 = width 10 cm / 4''. 1 repetition with A.2/A.3 = 10 cm / 4'' in width.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm / US 6 - for edges.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 521: 2 pieces for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
DROPS Vivaldi DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

BUTTONHOLE:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog second and third st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 29 and 35 cm / 11½" and 13 3/4"
SIZE M: 31 and 37 cm / 12 1/4" and 14½"
SIZE L: 32 and 39 cm / 12½" and 15 1/4"
SIZE XL: 32 and 39 cm / 12½" and 15 1/4"
SIZE XXL: 33 and 41 cm / 13" and 16 1/8"
SIZE XXXL: 35 and 43 cm / 13 3/4" and 17"
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JACKET:

BACK PIECE:
To avoid a tight cast on edge place circular needle size 4mm and 5mm / US 6 and 8 tog and cast on 54-58-64-70-78-86 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) over both needles with Vivaldi.
Pull out circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and with circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above.
On next row after ridges (= RS) work pattern according to diagram A.1 with 1 edge st in garter st in each side.
Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm / 8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''-9¾''-10¼'', cast on new sts for sleeves at the end of every row in each side as follows: 2 sts 3-3-3-3-4-5 times, 4 sts 2-2-2-2-1-0 times and then 10-8-8-6-6-6 sts 1 time = 102-102-108-110-114-118 sts on needle – NOTE: Work the inc sts in the pattern A.1.
After last inc continue pattern as before but work the outermost 5 sts in each side in garter st (= sleeve edges).
When piece measures 43-45-47-49-51-53 cm / 17"-17 3/4"-18½"-19 1/4"-20"-21" - make sure that next row is worked from RS, switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6.
Work in garter st back and forth over all sts while AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row (= RS) inc 46-50-50-52-52-54 sts evenly = 148-152-158-162-166-172 sts.
When piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm / 17¼''-18''-19''-19¾''-20½''-21¼'', bind off the middle 34-34-36-36-38-38 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately.
Continue to bind off 2 sts on next row from neck = 55-57-59-61-62-65 sts remain on the shoulder.
Loosely bind off when piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm / 18''-19''-19¾''-20½''-21¼''-22''.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Place circular needle size 4mm and 5mm / US 6 and 8 tog and cast on 34-36-40-42-46-52 sts (includes 5 band sts towards mid front and 1 edge st in the side) over both needles.
Pull out circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and with circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 work 2 ridges in garter st (1st row = RS).
Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, work diagram A.2 (= 16 sts), then work pattern according to diagram A.1 until 1 st remains on row, finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue pattern like this.
When piece measures 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm / 8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''-9¾''-10¼'', cast on new sts at the end of every row towards the side as on back piece = 58-58-62-62-64-68 sts - NOTE: Work the inc sts in the pattern A.1.
After last inc continue pattern as before but work the outermost 5 sts towards the side in garter st (= sleeve edge). Remember BUTTONHOLES on band - see explanation above.
On first row from RS after last buttonhole, slip the first 11-11-11-11-13-15 sts at beg of row on 1 stitch holder for neck (work sts before slipping them on stitch holder).
Continue to bind off for neck at beg of every row from neck as follows: 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 3 times = 38-38-42-42-42-44 sts remain on shoulder.
Continue pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st towards the neck and 5 sts in garter st towards the sleeve.
When piece measures 43-45-47-49-51-53 cm / 17"-17 3/4"-18½"-19 1/4"-20"-21" - make sure that next row is worked from RS, switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6.
Work in garter st back and forth over all sts while AT THE SAME TIME inc 17-19-17-19-20-22 sts evenly on 1st row = 55-57-59-61-62-66 sts.
Loosely bind off when piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm / 18''-19''-19¾''-20½''-21¼''-22''.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work 2 ridges as on right front piece.
Work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.1 until 21 sts remain, work A.3 (= 16 sts) and finish with 5 band sts in garter st.
Continue pattern like this and continue as on right front piece but reversed. NOTE: Do not dec for buttonholes on left front piece, i.e. slip sts on a stitch holder for neck when piece measures 36-38-40-40-42-44 cm / 14 1/4"-15"-15 3/4"-15 3/4"-16½"-17 1/4".

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside bind off edge. Sew underarm and side seams in one inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.

NECK:
Pick up approx. 105 to 115 sts around the neck (number includes sts on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Vivaldi. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS.
Bind off with K from WS.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 2 YOs on needle, on next row slip one YO off the needle and P the other YO
= 1 YO on needle
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 147-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (71)

Roberta 14.05.2016 - 18:13:

I would like to make this in a light cotton or synthetic yarn for summer rather than a wool mohair type yarn. Since it calls for a "c" weight yarn, it looks like it would not look lacy in the alternatives since they are thicker yarns. What yarn would you recommend? Thanks.

DROPS Design 17.05.2016 kl. 09:19:

Dear Roberta, for any further personnal assistance choosing an alternative you are welcome to contact your DROPS Store even per telephone or per mail, they will provide you individual assistance. Happy knitting!

Catherine 31.10.2013 - 17:55:

Bonjour, A quelle hauteur faut-il commencer les diminutions pour l'encolure de devant ? cordialement Catherine

DROPS Design 31.10.2013 kl. 17:59:

Bonjour Catherine, au 1er rang sur l'end après la dernière boutonnière, vous mettez en attente pour l'encolure les 11-15 premières m (cf taille) et rabattez ensuite 3x 2 m et 3x 1 m pour l'encolure. Bon tricot!

Vee 01.08.2013 - 01:40:

Cutie by DROPS Design Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern in ”Vivaldi”. Size: S - XXXL.Materials: DROPS VIVALDI from Garnstudio 100-100-100-100-150-150 g It says i only need 150 gms for the large size.this can't be right

DROPS Design 01.08.2013 kl. 10:20:

Dear Vee, on the basis of the indicated tension, you should need 150 g Vivaldi in largest size, DROPS Vivaldi is 50 g/280 m approx. Happy knitting!

Nashwa Ahmed 23.06.2013 - 12:07:

I am sorry but diagram A.1 is only 8 sts not 13 i can't figure it out

DROPS Design 24.06.2013 kl. 09:15:

Dear Mrs Nasha Ahmed, A.1 can be repeated on how many sts you'll need, you just need an even number of sts to cast on, eg 14 sts + 1 edge st each side. Happy knitting!

Nashwa Ahmed 21.06.2013 - 18:26:

How to check gauge for this pattern ?

DROPS Design 22.06.2013 kl. 09:47:

Dear Mrs Nasha Ahmed, you have to work a swatch in A.1 and then get 13 sts = 10 cm in width + 1 time diagrams A.2/A.3 should be 10 cm in width. Happy knitting!

Delattre 17.06.2013 - 10:08:

Je ne comprends pas l'explication du devant droit. Commence-t-on les boutonnières directement après les augmentations de la manche? Si oui, combien de mailles et comment?

DROPS Design 17.06.2013 kl. 10:40:

Bonjour Mme Delattre, toutes les indications pour les boutonnières figurent au début des explications, ainsi la 1ère se situe entre 29 et 35 cm en fonction de la taille choisie. Bon tricot!

Francesca 12.06.2013 - 01:26:

I am working the back and have reached the sleeve increases but I find that both sides are sloped - in opposite directions. Is this right and to be remedied when I block the piece or have a made some kind of mistake?

DROPS Design 13.06.2013 kl. 08:49:

Dear Francesca, maybe some yos have been missed or added after casting on for sleeves ? It is very easy to go wrong with yo when increasing at the same time. Make sure you have always the same amount of 2 tog and yo + inc and keep no of sts right. Happy knitting!

Margreet 07.06.2013 - 17:55:

In mijn vorige bericht zei ik dat ik 25 steken gemeerderd had, zie nu dat het er 4 keer 2 steken zijn. Maar volgens mij blijft het probleem hetzelfde. Ik heb aan het begin en eind van elke naald een steek recht gebreid, dus als ik nu met die 2 extra steken begin, dan brei ik de eerste steek recht en ga ik dan verder met patroon A1,maar dan maakt de eerste steek van de oorspronkelijke steken er deel vanuit waardoor mi het patroon niet meer boven elkaar komt.

DROPS Design 11.06.2013 kl. 15:32:

Hoi Margreet. Ik ga vanuit dat je maat XXL breit. Je zet dan op voor de mouwen: 4 keer 2 st, 1 keer 4 st en 1 keer 6 st aan beide kanten: 18 st aan beide kanten of 36 in totaal = 114 st op de nld. Je breit aan beide kanten 5 ribbelst (= mouwst), dus je breit A.1 over de overige 104 st. A.1 is deelbaar door 2, dus het zou goed uitkomen, de vroegere recht steken wordt nu samen gebreid in het patroon. Tel goed uit zo dat het patroon klopt.

Margreet 07.06.2013 - 17:27:

Ik heb nu 25 steken opgezet voor de mouw. Maar als ik nu verder brei in patroon A1 dan kom ik toch niet uit doordat er aan iedere kant een rechte kantsteek zit. Nu zou het betekenen dat deze kantsteek de eerste is van A1. Ik snap het dus niet meer. Is de eerste steek van de 25 nu een rechte en brei ik daarna in patroon? Zo ja, dan verschuift volgens mij het patroon op het rugpand. Uit het patroon word ik niets wijzer.

Cora 14.05.2013 - 18:33:

From this point, at the back of the piece: "When piece measures 43-45-47-49-51-53 cm - adjust so that next row is worked from RS, switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Work in garter st back and forth over all sts..." untill the cast off all the rows are worked in garter st, not in diagram A1 any more?

DROPS Design 15.05.2013 kl. 07:39:

Dear Cora, you are correct, from this measure you continue in garter st until finished measurement = for 3 more cm. Happy knitting!

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