Bluebelle by DROPS Design

Knitted dress with lace pattern in DROPS Karisma. Size children 3 to 12 years

DROPS design: Pattern no U-055-bn
Yarn group B
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Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 64-68-74-80-86 cm / 25 1/4"-26 3/4"-29"-31½"-34"
Full length: 52-57-62-67-72 cm / 20½"-22½"-24½"-26½"-28½"

Materials: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
Color no 64, gray purple: 250-300-350-400-450 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 4.5 mm / US 7 (60 cm / 24'') - or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 4 mm / US 6 (60 cm / 24'') - for yoke

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 524: 3 pieces for all sizes

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100% Wool
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DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A-1 and A-2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to body):
Dec 1 st on each side of marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, (marker), K tog the next 2 sts.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to armhole and neck line on front piece):
All dec are done from RS!
Dec 1 st at beg of row as follows: K 2, K the next 2 sts tog.
Dec 1 st at end of row as follows: Work until 4 sts remain on needle, K the next 2 sts tog, K 2.

BUTTON HOLES:
1 BUTTON HOLE = K 2 sts tog and make 1 YO. Bind off for 3 button holes evenly on band on left shoulder.

MEASURING TIP:
Because of the garter st all measurements must be done by holding the piece up otherwise the garment will be too long when worn.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 190-209-228-228-247 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with gray purple. K 1 round and P 1 round. Then work A-1 over all sts 1 time vertically = 170-187-204-204-221 sts (= 10-11-12-12-13 repetitions). Then work A-2 over all sts until piece measures approx. 9-9-10-10-11 cm / 3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4½". K next round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 2-11-16-4-9 sts evenly on round = 168-176-188-200-212 sts. Then work in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 10-10-11-11-12 cm / 4"-4"-4½"-4½"-4 3/4", insert a marker at beg of round and a marker after 84-88-94-100-106 sts (= middle of sides), and move the marker upwards when working. On next round, dec 1 st on each side of every marker - READ DECREASE TIP 1 = 4 sts dec on round. Repeat dec every 2½-2½-3-3½-3½ cm / 7/8"-7/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/4"-1 1/4" a total of 10 times = 128-136-148-160-172 sts.
When piece measures 33-37-40-44-47 cm / 13"-14½"-15 3/4"-17 1/4"-18½" (all dec should now be done), switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and continue in garter st over all sts until finished measurements - READ MEASURING TIP!
When piece measures 38-42-46-50-54 cm / 15"-16½"-18"-19 3/4"-21 1/4", bind off 4-4-5-5-6 sts for armholes on each side of both markers (= 8-8-10-10-12 bound off sts in each side). Finish each piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 56-60-64-70-74 sts. Continue in garter st back and forth on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 - AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st in each side of piece for armholes - READ DECREASE TIP 2. Repeat dec on every row from RS a total of 6-6-6-7-7 times = 44-48-52-56-60 sts remain.
When piece measures 50-55-60-65-70 cm / 19 3/4"-21½"-23½"-25½"-27½", bind off the middle 16-18-20-22-24 sts for neck. Now finish each shoulder separately. Then bind off 1 st on every row from neck 2 times = 12-13-14-15-16 sts remain on shoulder.
When piece measures 52-57-62-67-72 cm / 20½"-22½"-24½"-26½"-28½", bind off sts on right shoulder, and work a band on left shoulder.

BAND - AT THE BACK:
Work a band over sts on left shoulder as follows: On last row from WS, inc 1-0-1-0-1 st = 13-13-15-15-17 sts. Then work rib on next row from RS as follows: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire row.
When rib measures 2 cm / 3/4'', loosely bind off all sts with K over K and P over P.

FRONT PIECE:
= 56-60-64-70-74 sts. Continue in garter st back and forth on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and dec for armholes as on back piece.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 45-49-53-57-61 cm / 17 3/4"-19 1/4"-21"-22½"-24", bind off the middle 14-14-16-16-18 sts for neck line. Now finish each shoulder separately. Then dec on every row from RS as follows: 1 st 3-4-4-5-5 times - READ DECREASE TIP 2 = 12-13-14-15-16 sts remain on shoulder.
When piece measures 52-57-62-67-72 cm / 20½"-22½"-24½"-26½"-28½" - READ MEASURING TIP - bind off sts on right shoulder, and work a band on left shoulder.

BAND - AT THE FRONT:
Work a band over sts on left shoulder as follows: On last row from WS, inc 1-0-1-0-1 st = 13-13-15-15-17 sts. Then work rib on next row from RS as follows: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire row. On next row from RS, bind off for 3 button holes evenly - read explanation above.
When rib measures 2 cm / 3/4'', loosely bind off all sts with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew right shoulder seam. Sew the buttons on to band on left back piece.

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Hat - see pattern SmåDrops 23-6
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This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 17.10.2012
Materials: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
Color no 64, gray purple: 250-300-350-400-450 g

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS
= P from RS
= YO between 2 sts
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 23-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (58)

Bożena Schröder 22.10.2020 - 21:03:

Dziewczynka, 128, szczupła..ile wełny na sukienkę bez rękawów jak na stronie? Pozdro Bozena?

DROPS Design 23.10.2020 kl. 12:45:

Witaj Bożeno, potrzebujesz 7 motków włóczki DROPS Karisma. Miłej pracy!

Leah Ilanah 19.08.2020 - 16:43:

Nein, ich habe versehentlich auf das falsche Muster geklickt. Ich stricke Twirly Girlie, Drops Children 23-2.

Leah Ilanah 19.08.2020 - 14:51:

Liebes Drops Team, ich habe gleich zu Beginn eine Frage. In der englischen Anleitung heisst es 'K1 row over all sts from bottom and up' und weiter unten I.e. repetition .... 7 ridges at the top and 17 ridges at the bottom'. Ich verstehe nicht wie ich gleichzeitig 'bottom' und 'top' stricken soll.

DROPS Design 19.08.2020 kl. 16:04:

Liebe Frau Ilanah, stricken Sie dieses Kleid? Das finde ich hier nicht in die English Anleitung, können Sie vielleicht mehr darüber sagen? Danke im voraus.

Adriana 07.06.2020 - 09:47:

Habe ich die anleitung für das muster übersehen oder ist es drinnen? ich meine nicht das lochmuster sondern das muster welches man zu beginn der arbeit macht um abzugleichen ob die angegebene maschenzahl auch für meine wolle zählt. vielen dank für die antwort!

DROPS Design 08.06.2020 kl. 08:47:

Liebe Adriana, Maschenprobe wird glatt rechts gestrickt und sollte 20 M x 26 R = 10 x10cm sein - siehe oben mit den Nadelgrößen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Paula Wines 17.02.2020 - 09:59:

Hi, I do not understand what the first stitch in A-1 is, there is a blank space on the diagram? Thanks

DROPS Design 17.02.2020 kl. 12:48:

Dear Mrs Wines, first row in A.1 is worked over 19 stitches, and you decrease 2 stitches in the middle of diagram (= black triangle= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso), 17 stitches remain on next row = 2nd round in A.1 will be worked over 17 stitches. Happy knitting!

Ulrike 26.12.2019 - 20:25:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zu Muster A2. Nachdem ich Reihe 3 gestrickt habe, muss ich in Reihe 4 die Umschläge aus Reihe 3 verschränkt stricken oder sind die "Löcher", wenn man sie nicht verschränkt strickt, gewünscht und Teil des Musters?

DROPS Design 02.01.2020 kl. 11:09:

Liebe Ulrike, die Umschläge von 3. Reihe in A.3 gehören zum Lochmuster, diese sollen ganz "normal" rechts gestrickt werden (= es sollen Löcher entstehen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Tina 17.09.2019 - 14:56:

Jeg er ved at strikke denne fine kjole i str. 3/4, men forstår ikke hvordan kanten skal laves. Venstre kant er det i samme side af kjolen (set forfra)? Jeg synes den ene side bliver længere end den anden. Eller er det meningen at der skal være rib i både højre og venstre side, men kun knapper i den ene side? Kunne godt tænke mig at der var vist billeder af kjolens skulder.

DROPS Design 27.09.2019 kl. 08:54:

Hej Tina, venstre side når tøjet er på. Stykket med knaphuller er lidt længere da det skal nå ud over knapperne. God fornøjelse!

Dorothee 05.09.2019 - 20:56:

Ist es möglich, dieses Kleidchen umzurechnen fürcGr. 86/92? Wäre sehr dankbar für Hilfe.... Gruss Dorothee

DROPS Design 06.09.2019 kl. 07:54:

Liebe Dorothee, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder individuellen Anfrage anpassen, Wenn sie Hilfe damit brauchen, wenden Sie sich bitte an dem Laden wo Sie die Wolle gekauft haben, dort hilft man Ihnen gerne weiter. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Anke 12.08.2019 - 16:14:

Hallo. Ich verstehe das noch immer nicht! Stricke ich den Umschlag und die Rechte Maschen in der nächsten Reihe zusammen oder wie komme ich auf 170 Maschen mit den Umschlägen? Und was ist damit gemeint, dass in jedem A1 2Maschen abgenommen wird?

DROPS Design 13.08.2019 kl. 08:04:

Liebe Anke, wenn nach A.1 170 M übrig sind, stricken Sie A.2 wie folgt: (bei der 3. Runde): [2 Maschen rechts zusammen x 3, *1 Umschlag, 1 Masche recht*, von *bis* 5 Mal wiederholen, 1 Umschlag, 2 Maschen rechts zusammen x 3], von [bis] insgesamt 10 Mal wiederholen. Dieses Video zeigt ein anderes Wellenmuster, wo diese Reihe wird aber gleich sein. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Anke 12.08.2019 - 08:30:

Hallo. Ich habe eine Frage zu A1 und A2. Verstehe ich das richtig, dass ich diese im Wechsel stricke? Wenn ich A2 stricke habe ich über 200 Maschen. Stricke ich 3x 2M. zusammen, dann 6 Umschläge und wieder 3x 2M. zusammen? Reduzieren sich die Maschen von den Umschlagen dann durch Deals Muster von A1? Wie komme ich nach A2 wieder auf die 170 Maschen?

DROPS Design 12.08.2019 kl. 08:58:

Liebe Anke, A.1 wird nur einmal in der Höhe gestrickt = 2 M wird in jedem A.1 abgenommen, dann wird A.2 in der Höhe wiederholt (= die Maschenanzahl wird immer dieselbe bleiben). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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