DROPS / 140 / 10

Sweet Scarborough by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS vest with round yoke and Norwegian pattern in ”Karisma”.

DROPS design: Pattern no u-677
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-92-100-108-120-130 cm /
Full length: 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm /
19 3/4''-20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''

DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color no 48, wine red
50-50-50-100-100-100 g color no 01, off white
50 g for all sizes in color no 11, orange
50 g for all sizes in color no 52, dark mustard

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm /US 6 - or size needed to get 22 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3 mm / US 2.5 – for rib.

DROPS WOOD BUTTON LIGHT NO 501: 5-5-6-6-6-6 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle): K sts on all rows.

See diagram A-1. Diagram is worked in stockinette st - 1st row = RS.

Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 184-200-220-240-268-292 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with wine red. Work rib as follows (1st row = RS): 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above - * K 2/P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain, K 2 and 1 edge st in garter st.
When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6, work 1 row in stockinette st while at the same time dec 24-24-28-28-32-36 sts evenly = 160-176-192-212-236-256 sts. Insert 2 markers in the piece; 40-44-48-53-59-64 sts in from each side (= 80-88-96-106-118-128 sts between markers on back piece). Continue in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 10 cm / 4'' in total, inc 1 st on each side of markers in the sides. Repeat inc every 5 cm / 2'' 3 more times = 176-192-208-228-252-272 sts.
When piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm / 12¼''-12½''-13''-13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼'', work next row as follows from RS: 39-43-47-52-58-63 sts (= right front piece), bind off 10 sts for armhole, work 78-86-94-104-116-126 sts (= back piece), bind off 10 sts for armhole, work the rest of row (= 39-43-47-52-58-63 sts on left front piece), do not cut the thread.
Put piece aside and knit the sleeve edges.

Worked back and forth on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5.
Cast on 70-72-76-80-84-88 sts with wine red. K 5 rows (1st row = WS), work next row as follows: bind off the first 5 sts, work 60-62-66-70-74-78 sts and bind off the last 5 sts, cut the thread. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve edge.

Slip sleeve edges on to same circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 as body = 276-296-320-348-380-408 sts (do not work them when slipping them on to needle).
P 1 row from WS while at the same time dec 1-5-13-9-9-5 sts evenly = 275-291-307-339-371-403 sts.
Work 0-2-4-0-2-4 more rows with wine red in stockinette st.
Continue with diagram A-1 (see diagram for your size) with 1 edge st in each side in garter st, work next to last st on row as first st in A-1 but do not dec in this st.
After all dec there are 88-93-98-108-118-128 sts on needle and piece measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm / 19 3/4''-20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8'' up to shoulder. Then work an elevation in the back of neck with wine red as follows (1st row = RS): K 51-54-56-61-66-71 sts, turn, P 14-15-14-14-14-14 sts, turn, K 21-22-21-21-21-21 sts, turn, P 28-29-28-28-28-28 sts, continue like this by working 7 sts more on every turn until a total of 70-71-70-84-84-84 sts have been worked, turn and work the rest of row, cut the thread.
Put sts on a holder, neck edge is worked after the front bands are finished.

Pick up approx. 105-125 sts inside 1 edge st along left front on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with wine red. K 1 row from WS, then K 1 row from RS while inc no of sts evenly to 128-132-136-140-144-148 sts. Work rib as follows (1st row = WS): 1 edge st in garter st, * P 2/K 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with P 2 and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue with K over K and P over P until rib measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'', loosely bind off.

Work as left band but after 1 cm / 3/8'', bind off for 5-5-6-6-6-6 buttonholes evenly (buttonholes are bind off in P-sections seen from RS). 1 BUTTONHOLE = P 2 tog and make 1 YO – top buttonhole should be in the first P-section from the top and bottom hole approx. 5-6 cm / 2''-2 3/8'' from bottom edge.

The neck edge is worked with wine red on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 as follows: Pick up 6 sts over right band (inside 1 edge st), work the 88-93-98-108-118-128 sts from stitch holder around the neck on to needle and pick up 6 sts over left band = 100-105-110-120-130-140 sts.
K 1 row from WS while at the same time dec evenly to 90-94-98-102-106-110 sts. Continue with K 4 rows back and forth, then bind off.

Sew sleeve edges tog edge to edge in front loop of outermost sts. Sew tog the openings under the sleeves and sew on buttons.

Hat and mittens - see pattern 140-8
Socks - see pattern 140-9

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 13.10.2016
Small correction diagram A-1, all sizes.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= off white
= wine red
= dark mustard
= orange
= K 2 tog in the color that fits the pattern

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 140-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (30)

Sissi 09.01.2020 - 18:34:

Liebes Team, für die Zunahme der Seitenschrägung im Rumpfteil heißt es bei einer Gesamtlänge 10 cm. Wird das Bündchen (8cm) mitgemessen? Oder nach Bündchen 10 cm messen und dann die jeweiligen Zunahme stricken? Vielen 💜 Dank💜 🙏im Vorraus🙇

DROPS Design 10.01.2020 kl. 08:36:

Liebe Sissi, diese 10 cm werden von der Anschlagskante gesmessen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Vera 03.03.2019 - 12:36:

Hallo liebes Drops Team Sind im Diagramm nur die Hinreihen eingezeichnet oder wird das Muster schon in der Rückreihe erweitert ? Das habe ich nicht verstanden. LG Vera Bartkowiak

DROPS Design 04.03.2019 kl. 10:09:

Liebe Vera, alle Reihen sind im Diagram gezeigt, dh die Hin- sowie die Rückreihen. Hier lesen Sie wie man Strick-Diagramme liest. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Stephanie 03.06.2018 - 08:49:

I have just finished the sleeves and am ready to work on the yoke. The directions say to slip the sleeves onto the same needle as the body and then purl 1 row. Do I add both sleeves to the end (not where I stopped knitting before)? But, the sleeves would be knitted together???? Please clarify. Thank you!

DROPS Design 04.06.2018 kl. 09:16:

Dear Stephanie, this video shows how to slip both sleeves above sts bound off for armholes on the sides. You will then work a total of 1-3-5 rows (see size) and now start A.1 including decrease for circular yoke. Happy knitting!

Mette Pedersen 14.02.2018 - 10:27:

Hej:) Jeg kan ikke se hvor langt oppe på vesten, at jeg skal starte med mønstret. På forhånd tak for hjælpen.

DROPS Design 14.02.2018 kl. 13:18:

Hei Mette. Hei. Når du er ferdig med bærestykket og har strikket begge ermkantene og satt disse sammen med bærestykket, strikkes det 1 pinne vrang fra vrangen samtidig som det felles 1-5-13-9-9-5 m jevnt fordelt = 275-291-307-339-371-403 m. Deretter strikkes 0-2-4-0-2-4 pinner til med vinrød og glstrikk. Så starter du med diagram A.1 (se diagram for din størrelse). God Fornøyelse!

Hildegard Brake 27.11.2017 - 15:09:

Hallo, kann ich die Weste auch als Pullover stricken? Wie geht das? Kann ich die jeweils angegebenen Maschenzahlen nehmen und alles auf einer Rundstricknadel im Kreis stricken? MfG Hildegard Brake

DROPS Design 27.11.2017 kl. 15:21:

Liebe Frau Brake, so können Sie wahrscheinlich stricken, passen Sie mal auf, daß die Farbenmuster mit den gesamten Maschenanzahl passt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Le Derf 05.10.2017 - 14:56:

Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse rapide. Pouvez-vous me donner plus de détails car je ne comprends toujours pas ce que je dois faire. D'avance merci. C'est mon premier empiècement jacquard. Excusez-moi de vous solliciter à nouveau.

DROPS Design 05.10.2017 kl. 16:10:

Bonjour Mme Le Derf, vous allez tricoter A.1 ainsi: 1 m lis au point mousse, puis vous répétez A.1 en largeur jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 2 mailles, tricotez l'avant-dernière maille de A.1 (pour que le motif soit symétrique) et terminez par 1 maille lisière. Lisez A.1 en commençant en bas à droite et de droite à gauche sur l'endroit, et de gauche à droite sur l'envers (sur l'envers, commencez par 1 m lis au point mousse, la 1ère m de A.1 à droite, puis répétez A.1 en lisant de gauche à droite) et terminez par 1 m lis au point mousse. Bon tricot!

Le Derf Claudine 04.10.2017 - 19:35:

Bonjour, J'ai commencé ce joli modèle Sweet Scarborough taille M. J'ai 291 mailles. Je commence le diagramme A1 avec 1 m lisière de ch. côté au point mousse. Je ne comprends pas la suite : tricoter l'avant dernière m. du rang comme la 1ère m. de A-m mais ne pas faire de diminution sur cette maille. Pouvez-vous détailler ? D'avance merci

DROPS Design 05.10.2017 kl. 09:05:

Bonjour Mme Le Derf, pour que le motif soit identique de chaque côté, vous tricotez la 1ère maille de A.1, mais sur les rangs de diminutions, tricotez bien 1 m end et pas 2 m ens à l'end, et vous terminez par 1 m lis. Bon tricot!

Diana 04.02.2017 - 06:13:

I am having the same problem as Linda brush, as noted in the comment section. I still don't understand what the pattern means. Can you explain in more detail or show in a video?

DROPS Design 06.02.2017 kl. 09:10:

Dear Diana, you are working diagram repeating A.1 in width as many times as stated for your size, then finish with the 1st st shown in A.1 to make pattern symetrical on both sides inside the edge sts. When 1st st in A.1 is K2 tog, just work the last st from RS in the main colour of this row. Happy knitting!

Linda Brush 06.10.2016 - 20:33:

I do not understand the line in the pattern that states: Continue with diagram A-1 with 1 edge st in each st in each side in garter st, work next to last st on row as first stitch in A-1 but do not decrease in this stitch. Is there another way to explain this please????

DROPS Design 07.10.2016 kl. 08:26:

Dear Mrs Brush, you will repeat A.1 in width but to get similar pattern on each side on front piece, work the next to last st from RS (before edge st) as the 1st st in A.1. But when you have to dec work the 1st and 2nd st in A.1 tog, work this st K with the colour shown in diagram, without dec (dec will apply to repeats in width). Happy knitting!

Marit 16.03.2016 - 01:15:

Uansett saa er diagrammet feil. Etter en felling saa skal det bli en rute mindre i diagrammet i neste rad. Diagrammet skal illustrere det som skal strikkes i stedet for beskrivelse med ord.

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