DROPS / 143 / 1

Celtica by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS fitted jacket with cables and shawl collar in ”Lima”. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Celtica / DROPS 143-1 - Knitted DROPS fitted jacket with cables and shawl collar in ”Lima”. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Celtica / DROPS 143-1 - Knitted DROPS fitted jacket with cables and shawl collar in ”Lima”. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Celtica / DROPS 143-1 - Knitted DROPS fitted jacket with cables and shawl collar in ”Lima”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no LI-016
Yarn group B
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 92-110-130 cm / 36 1/4"-43½"-51½"
Full length: 70-73-76 cm / 27½"-28 3/4"-30"

Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
750-850-1000 g color no 5610, brown

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm / US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 521: 6 pieces

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Lima uni colour DROPS Lima uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Lima mix DROPS Lima mix 4.10 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 66.30$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K sts on all rows. 1 ridge = 2 K rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A-1, diagram shows pattern from RS. First row = RS.

BUTTONHOLES:
bind off for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K 3rd and 4th st from mid front tog and make 1 YO. Bind off for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S/M: 7, 14, 21, 28, 35 and 42 cm / 2¾", 5½", 8¼", 11", 13¾" and 16½".
SIZE L/XL: 8, 15, 22, 29, 36 and 43 cm / 3 1/8", 6", 8¾", 11 3/8", 14¼" and 17".
SIZE XXL/XXXL: 9, 16, 23, 30, 37 and 44 cm / 3½", 6¼", 9", 11¾", 14½" and 17¼".

INCREASE TIP (applies to collar):
Inc by making 1 YO inside outermost st - on next row K YO twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to neck):
Dec for neck inside all sts in garter st (i.e. band + the sts inc for collar). All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows AFTER sts in garter st: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows BEFORE sts in garter st: K 2 tog.
On all WS rows P sts after/before sts in garter st while dec.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 254-309-360 sts (includes 6 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Lima. K 5 rows (1st row = WS).
Then work as follows (seen from RS): 6 band sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, [* P 2, K 2 in each of the next 2 sts (= K 4), P 2 *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, P 14-13-12], repeat from [-] 6-8-10 more times, then from *-* 3 more times and 6 band sts in garter st = 302-369-432 sts.
Work K over K and P over P and band sts in garter st. Continue as follows (seen from from RS): 6 sts in garter st, [diagram A-1 (= 24 sts), P 14-13-12], repeat from [-] 6-8-10 more times, A-1 and 6 sts in garter st. Insert a marker after 75-92-108 sts in from each side (= 152-185-216 sts between markers on back piece). REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures approx. 5-7-9 cm / 2"-2 3/4"-3½" (adjust so that next row is worked from RS), dec 1 st in every P-section by P the first 2 sts tog (i.e. dec 7-9-11 sts on row).
Repeat dec every 6th row 11-10-9 more times – NOTE: Dec alternately at the end and beg of every P-section.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 7-8-9 cm / 2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3½", bind off for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above.
After all dec in P-sections, 218-270-322 sts remain on needle and only 2 P sts between every A-1 (piece now measures approx. 29 cm / 11½").
Continue until piece measures approx. 33-35-36 cm / 13"-13 3/4"-14 1/4" (adjust so that next row is worked from RS), now inc 1 st in every P-section by making 1 YO after last P st in every P-section, on next row (from WS) K YOs twisted to avoid holes.
Repeat inc every 6th row 3-2-2 more times – NOTE: Inc alternately before and after all P sts by making 1 YO. When all inc are done, there are 6-5-5 P sts in every P-section and 246-297-355 sts in total on needle.
READ UNTIL LEFT FRONT PIECE BEFORE CONTINUING!

COLLAR:
When piece measures 41-42-43 cm / 16 1/8"-16½"-17", inc 1 st in each side towards mid front for collar - SEE INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every other row 11 more times and then every 4th row 6 times = 18 sts inc for collar and 24 sts in garter st in total.
NECKLINE:
At the same time, 2 cm / 3/4'' after beg inc for collar, dec 1 st in each side for neck - SEE DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every other row 5 more times and then every 4th row 6 times (i.e. half of A-1 in each side has been dec, continue with K 2 in the middle of diagram where there used to be a cable over 4 sts).
ARMHOLES:
At the same time when piece measures approx. 51-52-53 cm / 20"-20½"-21" (make sure that next row is worked from RS), bind off for armholes as follows:
Size S/M and L/XL: bind off 6 sts in the side (i.e. 3 sts on each side of markers in the sides).
SIZE XXL/XXXL: bind off 7 sts in the side, i.e. the 5 P sts where marker is + 1 st on each side of these.
Finish each part separately.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Then bind off for armhole at beg of every row from the side: 3 sts 0-1-3 times, 2 sts 3-3-4 times and 1 st 5-4-6 times. After all bind offs for armhole, dec for neck and inc for collar, 55-66-70 sts remain on shoulder.
There is now ½ repetition of A-1 towards the neck before collar in all sizes, there is also ½ repetition towards the armhole in the smallest size.
Continue the pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st towards armhole.
When piece measures approx. 70-73-76 cm / 27½"-28 3/4"-30", stop after one whole or half repetition of A-1 vertically, dec 3 sts evenly over the half repetitions and 6 sts evenly over the whole ones (i.e. dec 6-9-9 sts in total) = 49-57-61 sts.
On next row from RS, bind off the first 25-33-37 sts for shoulder, K the last 24 sts in garter st.
Then work back and forth in garter st over these sts for collar as follows: * 2 rows over all sts, 2 rows over only the outermost 18 sts (towards mid front) *, repeat from *-* until collar measures approx. 5½ cm / 2 1/4" at the inside on the most narrow part, bind off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work as left front piece but reversed. After sts for shoulder have been bound off (from RS so that same no of rows have been worked on both front pieces), cut the yarn at the end of row.
Continue working the collar starting from WS.

BACK PIECE:
= 114-139-167 sts. Continue to bind off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as on front piece = 92-113-121 sts.
Continue the pattern with 1 edge st in garter st in each side.
When piece measures approx. 68-71-74 cm / 26 3/4"-28"-29" (make sure that last row worked is 1 of the rows marked with 1 arrow in diagram), then on next row (= RS), bind off the middle 24-23-23 sts for neck, work the rest of row, finish each shoulder separately in pattern.

LEFT SHOULDER: Work 1 row from WS, bind off 2 sts at beg of next row (= towards neck) = 32-43-47 sts. K 1 row from WS. On next row (= RS), dec 3 sts evenly over the half repetitions of A-1 and 6 sts evenly over the whole repetitions of A-1 (i.e. dec 6-9-9 sts in total) = 26-34-38 sts.
Bind off on next row (= WS).
There is 1 st more on shoulder on back piece than on front piece, this is because the collar is to be sewn inside 1 st on back piece.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
Beg mid back, i.e. from WS, bind off 2 sts at beg of row (= 32-43-47 sts remain on shoulder). Work 1 row from RS and 1 row from WS. On next row (= RS), dec 3 sts evenly over the half repetitions of A-1 and 6 sts evenly over the whole repetitions of A-1 (i.e. dec 6-9-9 sts in total) = 26-34-38 sts. Bind off on next row (= WS).

SLEEVE:
First work the cuff sideways, back and forth on circular needle.

CUFF:
Cast on 22 sts on needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Lima. K 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows: 1 st in GARTER ST – see explanation above, * P 2, K 2 in each of the next 2 sts (= K 4), P 2 *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, finish with 3 sts in garter st = 28 sts. Work 1 row from WS with K over K and P over P with 1 st in garter st in one side and 3 sts in garter st in the other side.
Continue with A-1 until 4-4-5 repetitions have been worked vertically, then work the first 2 rows in A-1 one more time (piece measures approx. 24-24-30 cm / 9½"-9½"-11 3/4").
Work next row as follows (= RS): 1 st in garter st, * P 2, K 2 tog, K 2 tog, P 2 *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, finish with 3 sts in garter st = 22 sts. K 1 row from WS over all sts, then bind off.
Edge is approx. 10 cm / 4'' wide, continue with sleeve.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6.
Pick up along the edge where there is only 1 garter st - pick up 1 st in every ridge (= 2 K rows). K 1 row from WS while at the same time adjusting no of sts to 52-54-62. Then K 1 row from RS, the continue in reverse stockinette st.
When piece measures 15 cm / 6'' in total, inc 1 st in each side. Repeat inc every 3-2-2 cm / 1 1/8"-3/4"-3/4", 10-13-13 more times = 74-82-90 sts. When piece measures 48-45-43 cm / 19"-17 3/4"-17" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 6-7-9 times, then bind off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 57-55-54 cm / 22½"-21½"-21 1/4", now bind off 3 sts 1 time in each side.
Bind off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 58-56-55 cm / 22 3/4"-22"-21½".

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.
Sew collar tog mid back and sew it on to neck line inside 1 edge st.
Sew sleeve seams – sew cuff edge to edge (cast on edge against bind off edge) to avoid a chunky seam, sew the rest of sleeve inside 1 edge st.
Sew sleeves in body and sew on buttons.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 2, K 2 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 143-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (448)

country flag Dominique 07.05.2021 - 08:55:

Rg 6 taille L/XL = toujours pas compris comment vous arrivez à 8 m : 2m en v+ 2m end (sur 2 m) = 4m + 2 m env = 6, pas 8 ?

user icon DROPS Design 07.05.2021 kl. 11:13:

Bonjour Dominique, vous tricotez: 2 m env, 2 m end dans chacune des 2 m suivantes = ce qui donne 4 m endroit, 2 m env = 2+4+2= 8 m (2 m env, 4 m end, 2 m env). Bon tricot!

country flag DOMINIQUE 05.05.2021 - 20:16:

Bonjour, taille L/XL. j'en suis au 6ème rang : 2m env augmentées + 2 m end aug + 2m env = 6m x 3 fois = 18, plus 13 m env = 31 m entre chaque marqueur x 8 fois = 248 m, plus encore 18 m (3x6) et les 12m mousse = 278 m Pas 369m . Merci me dire ce que je n'ai pas compris.

user icon DROPS Design 06.05.2021 kl. 07:28:

Bonjour Dominique, tricotez le 1er rang sur l'endroit après la bordure point mousse ainsi: 6 m point mousse, [* 2 m env, 2 m end dans chacune des 2 m suiv (= 4 m end), 2 m env*, répéter de *-* (= 8 m) encore 2 fois(= 8 x 3 fois au total = 24m) , 13 m env], répéter de [-] (= (24+13= 37m) encore 8 fois (= 31x 9 fois au total = 333m) , puis de *-* (= 8m) encore 3 fois (= 8x3=24m), 6 m point mousse = 6+333+24+6=369m. Bon tricot!

country flag Anny 12.01.2021 - 11:23:

KAN MEN BIJ BREIWERK DE OPZET LOSMAKEN EN VERDER BREIEN IN DIE RICHTING,

country flag Sareith 23.10.2020 - 19:34:

Bonjour, J'arrive à 70-73-76 cm de hauteur totale, ajuster après 1 motif ou 1 demi-motif de A-1 en hauteur. Je ne comprends pas la diminution au dessus des demi-rapports ou des rapports complets. Dois je la faire au début du rang ? Que veut dire au "dessus"?

user icon DROPS Design 26.10.2020 kl. 07:33:

Bonjour Mme Sareith, vous devez diminuer les mailles des diagrammes (1 rapport = 1 diagramme), comme certains des diagrammes ont été diminués pour l'encolure/l'emmanchure, vous n'avez plus le nombre total de mailles = demi-rapport. On doit diminuer car on a besoin de davantage de mailles quand on tricote des torsades que du jersey et au moment de rabattre, on doit conserver la bonne largeur. Bonne continuation!

country flag Sareith 19.10.2020 - 21:18:

Merci pour votre réponse. Malheureusement, mes marqueurs se sont déplacés voir tombés, comment puis je faire ? Puis je plier le gilet et estimé approximativement la place des emmanchures ?? Après je tricote le devant gauche et je laisse le reste en attente, correcte ?

user icon DROPS Design 20.10.2020 kl. 10:33:

Bonjour Mme Sareith, tout à fait, pliez votre ouvrage pour trouver les côtés du gilet et ajoutez maintenant un marqueur au milieu des sections en mailles envers de chacun des côtés pour mieux vous repérer. Quand on a rabattu les mailles des emmanchures, on va terminer chaque partie séparément, mettez les mailles du devant droit et du dos en attente sur un fil/une autre aiguille et tricotez celles du devant gauche pour commencer. Bon tricot!

country flag Sareith 18.10.2020 - 15:21:

Merci pour vos précisons sur le col en encolure. Je suis à présent à 52cm pour rabattre les emmanchures. Je souhaiterais savoir si je devais rabattre à 92m de chaque côté ? Pouvez vous m'expliquer le devant gauche ? Je les le dos et devant droit en attente et tricote le gauche ?

user icon DROPS Design 19.10.2020 kl. 09:17:

Bonjour Mme Sareith, vous devez rabattre les mailles de chaque côté aux marqueurs que vous avez placé au tout début de l'ouvrage - votre nombre de mailles va dépendre du nombre d'augmentations/de diminutions que vous avez faites, raison pour laquelle aucune information n'est indiquée à la séparation, mais si vous suivez correctement les indications, il vous restera bien 57 m quand toutes les diminutions de l'encolure/des emmanchures/des diagrammes/les augmentations du col seront faites. Bon tricot!

country flag Enedina 12.10.2020 - 17:33:

Como se empieza

country flag Sareith 04.10.2020 - 11:04:

Bonjour, Je suis à l'étape du col et encolure : Je ne comprends pas comment faire l'augmentation au milieu devant pour le col, à combien de mailles. Idem pour l'encolure, où dois-je faire la diminution de chaque côté de l'encolure=au début du travail ??

user icon DROPS Design 05.10.2020 kl. 10:40:

Bonjour Sareith, on augmente pour le col comme indiqué sous AUGMENTATIONS (col), autrement dit on fait 1 jeté à 1 m du bord et on diminue pour l'encolure comme indiqué sous DIMNUTIONS (= encolure), autrement dit après toutes les mailles point mousse en début de rang et avant toutes les mailles point mousse en fin de rang. Ce nombre de mailles point mousse correspond à celui de la bordure devant + les augmentations du col. Bon tricot!

country flag Francesca 26.09.2020 - 21:43:

Buonasera, volevo sapere perchè viene lavorato coi ferri circolari se la lavorazione è comunque avanti e indietro. E' possibile usare i ferri dritti? Grazie mille, Francesca

user icon DROPS Design 27.09.2020 kl. 12:52:

Buongiorno Francesca. Vengono consigliati i ferri circolari perché lavorando il davanti e il dietro insieme, il numero delle maglie è molto alto e sui ferri circolari c’è più posto per le maglie. Può usare i ferri dritti; in questo caso potrebbe risultarle più comodo lavorare il dietro e i davanti separatamente. Buon lavoro!

country flag Jadwiga 05.09.2020 - 08:22:

Dzień dobry, wykonuję właśnie lewe ramię tyłu, czy trzy ostatnie rzędy powinny być wykonane ściegiem francuskim (cytat: przer. 1 rz. na prawo na lewej stronie robótki), czy za tym rzędem również powinnam przerabiać na prawo ? I czy ramiona przodu też powinny być tak zakończone? Z góry dziękuję za odpowiedź i pozdrawiam. Jadwiga

user icon DROPS Design 07.09.2020 kl. 15:58:

Witaj Jadziu! 3 ostatnie rzędy powinny być przerobione na prawo, i na ramionach przodu i tyłu. Najlepiej jest to widoczne na drugim zdjęciu. Pozdrawiamy!

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