DROPS / 135 / 39

Twilight by DROPS Design

Men's knitted sweater with yoke in seed st and v-neck, in DROPS Lima. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no AC-019
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-96-106-118-130 cm / 31½''-34 5/8''-37¾''-41¾''-46½''-51''
Full length: 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''

Materials: DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
Color no 0619, beige mix:
550-600-650-750-850-950 g

Or use:
DROPS ♥ You #3 from Garnstudio
No 03, brown
350-400-400-500-550-600 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm /US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - for rib.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Lima uni colour DROPS Lima uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
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DROPS Lima mix DROPS Lima mix 4.10 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
DOUBLE SEED ST:
Row 1 (= from RS): * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2 (= from WS): K over K and P over P.
Row 3 (= from RS): * P 1, K 1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 4 (= from WS): P over P and K over K.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 213-234-255-288-318-351 sts on circular needle 3.5 mm with Lima.
Work rib K1 /P2. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' work 1 round stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 53-58-63-72-78-87 sts evenly (dec by K tog approx every 3rd and 4th st) = 160-176-192-216-240-264 sts.
Insert two markers in piece, at the beg of round and after 80-88-96-108-120-132 sts (to mark the sides).
Change to circular needle 4 mm. Continue in the round in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 15 cm / 6'' inc 1 st on each side of both markers with YO. On next row knit yo twisted (i.e. knit in the back of the loop instead of in the front, to avoid a hole).
Repeat the inc when piece measures 25 cm / 9 3/4'' = 168-184-200-224-248-272 sts.
When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm / 18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾''-20''-20½'' work DOUBLE SEED ST - see explanation above - AT THE SAME TIME bind off 6 sts at each side for armholes (i.e. Bind off 3 sts each side of each marker).
Now complete each piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 78-86-94-106-118-130 sts (1st row = WS). Continue in double seed st AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole at beg of each row each side as follows: 2 sts 0-1-2-4-6-8 times and 1 st 1-2-3-4-5-6 times = 76-78-80-82-84-86 sts.
When piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8'' bind off center 24-26-28-30-32-34 sts for neck and work each shoulder separately. Dec 1 st from neck on next row (i.e K2 tog) = 25 sts left on shoulder in all sizes.
Bind off when piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''.

FRONT PIECE:
= 78-86-94-106-118-130 sts (1st row = WS). Continue in double seed st and bind off for armholes as described on back piece, AT THE SAME TIME after 5 cm / 2'' in seed st on next row from RS bind off middle 2 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Now bind off by knitting first 2 sts towards neck tog (work them to fit seed st pattern) at beg on every row from the neck a total of 12-13-14-15-16-17 times. When all dec are complete there are 25 sts left on shoulder in all sizes. Bind off when piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''.

SLEEVE:
Work in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 63-66-69-72-75-78 sts on double pointed needles 3.5 mm with Lima. Work rib K1/P2. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' K 1 round AT THE SAME TIME dec 15-16-17-18-19-20 sts evenly (dec by K tog approx every 3rd and 4th sts) = 48-50-52-54-56-58 sts.
Change to double pointed needles 4 mm. Insert a marker at beg of round. Continue in stockinette st.
When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'' inc 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat inc on every 5-4½-3½-3-2½-2½ cm / 2"-1 3/4"-1 1/4"-1 1/8"-7/8"-7/8" a total of 10-11-13-15-17-18 times = 68-72-78-84-90-94 sts. When piece measures 57-57-56-56-54-53 cm / 22½"-22½"-22"-22"-21 1/4"-21" (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) continue in double seed st over all sts AT THE SAME TIME bind off 6 sts mid under sleeve (bind off 3 sts on each side of marker). Continue back and forth on circular needle and continue to bind off for sleeve cap at beg of each row each side as follows: 2 sts 3-3-4-4-4-3 times and then 1 st 3-4-4-5-8-13 times.
Then bind off 2 sts each side until piece measures 64-65-65-66-66-67 cm / 25 1/4"-25½"-25½"-26"-26"-26 3/8".
Now bind off 3 sts 1 time each side. Bind off.
Piece measures 65-66-66-67-67-68 cm / 25½"-26"-26"-26 3/8"-26 3/8"-26 3/4".

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves.

NECKBAND:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front in neck opening. Pick up 92-98-104-110-118-124 sts around neckline on circular needle 3.5 mm starting from mid front. K 1 row on WS and AT THE SAME TIME inc 37-37-40-43-47-50 sts evenly (inc with 1 YO between approx every 3rd and 4th st and a few more times). On next row from RS work yo twisted at the same time work rib as follows: 1 garter st, * K1, P2 *, repeat *-* until 2 sts remain, ending with K1 and 1 garter st. Continue like this and bind off loosely with K over K and P over P when rib measures 3.5 cm / 1 1/4''.
Place right piece of neckband over left and fasten both edges with a couple of small stitches to the edge.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 135-39) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (50)

Marianne De Graaf 29.10.2020 - 12:58:

Hartelijk dank voor het antwoord op mijn vraag van 13-10-2020!

Rikke Ehrenskjøld 18.10.2020 - 15:58:

Jeg er igang m. Str.L. Ærmer. Men jeg undre mig over der skal 69m i rib. De bliver meget løse. Kan jeg justere opskriften og slå mindre op, så de sidder mere tæt? Mvh. Rikke

DROPS Design 19.10.2020 kl. 21:11:

Hei Rikke. Det kan du fint gjøre, bare husk å tilpass maskeantallet etter vrangborden slik at det stemmer med resten av erme. God Fornøyelse!

Marianne 13.10.2020 - 15:15:

Na 4 cm boord van het lijf wordt verder gegaan in tricotsteek. Vervolgens wordt bij een hoogte van 15 cm aan weerszijden van de markeerders 1 st. gemeerderd. Wordt hier de totale hoogte inclusief boord bedoeld of de hoogte van de tricotsteek ná het boord?

DROPS Design 25.10.2020 kl. 20:03:

Dag Marianne,

Het meerderen begint bij een hoogte van 15 cm vanaf de opzetrand. (Hoogte afmetingen zijn altijd vanaf de opzetrand, tenzij anders aangegeven.)

Hera Lecluse 02.06.2020 - 08:38:

Hallo, dank voor uw antwoord. Met de beste wil van de wereld kom ik bij het 5 x 1 steken minderen niet op 20 steken. 5 x 1 = 5 x 2 =10 Ik kom er niet uit

DROPS Design 05.06.2020 kl. 12:25:

Dag Hera,

Sorry, denkfout mij... Maar als je 118 steken op de naald hebt en dan eerst 6 keer 2 steken (=12) aan beide kanten (=24) mindert houd je (118-24=) 94 steken over. Daarna minder je aan beide kanten nog 5 keer 1 steek = in totaal nog 10 minderingen en dan houd je 84 over.

Hera Lecluse 25.05.2020 - 21:10:

Hallo, ik brei maat XXL en kom bij het achterpand niet uit met de minderingen en het aantal steken n dat moet overblijven. Ik start met 118 steken, minder dan x 2 steken = 106 steken. Daarna nog 5 x 1 steek = 96 steken. Volgens het patroon moet ik nog 84 steken overhebben. Wat doe ik verkeerd?

DROPS Design 31.05.2020 kl. 11:08:

Dag Hera,

Je kant 6 keer 2 steken af aan elke kant = 24 steken eraf = 94 steken, dan 5 x 1 steek aan beide kanten = 20 steken eraf = 84 steken. Van die 84 steken kant je de middelste 32 steken af en dan heb je dus 52 steken over = 26 steken voor beide schouders. Er gaat dan nog 1 steek aan beide kanten af = 25 op elke schouder.

Laura Rocha 07.01.2020 - 23:17:

Me encanta este patrón. Vivo en Colombia, dónde puedo comprar las lanas?

DROPS Design 19.01.2020 kl. 23:07:

Hola Laura. Línk para los envíos internacionales: https://www.garnstudio.com/findastore.php?s=w&cid=23

Laura Rocha Martinez 07.01.2020 - 23:15:

Buenas tardes, me encanta ésta página. Vivo en Colombia, dónde puedo comprar las lanas?

DROPS Design 12.01.2020 kl. 23:48:

Hola Laura. Aquí tienes el línk de las tiendas Drops con envío internacional: https://www.garnstudio.com/findastore.php?s=w&cid=23

Hanne 02.12.2019 - 09:59:

Tak for virkelig hurtig og brugbar forklaring og svar på mit spørgsmål!👍

Hanne Rasmussen 30.11.2019 - 12:18:

Det undrer mig at der skal tages 78 m ind efter rubben i str xl Er det korrekt? Det er jo mere end 30 cm?

DROPS Design 02.12.2019 kl. 09:49:

Hei Hanne! Design har valgt å felle såpass mange masker etter vrangborden for å opprettholde fasongen på genseren. Etter fellingen vil bolen måle 102cm i bredden, dette utgjør rundt 16cm mindre enn vrangborden (husk at vrangborden trekker seg sammen). Klesstørrelser varierer fra land til land, og det kan derfor være lurt måle noen av ens egne plagg før en velger hvilken størrelse man vil strikke. Se gjerne " her . Lykke til!

Kristian 24.11.2019 - 12:47:

Der er står under rygstrik, at "Der fortsættes med dobbelt perlestrik. Samtidig med at der lukkes m af til ærmegab i beg af p i hver side således: 2 m 0-1-2-4-6-8 gange og 1 m 1-2-3-4-5-6 gange...." Hvornår skal man lukke af til ærmegab? Er det umiddelbart efter at have lukket 2x3=6 masker af, eller skal man strikke nogle omgange? Jeg strikker XL og er også i tvivl om, hvorvidt jeg først skal lukke 4x2 masker af i hver side og herefter 4x1 maske i hver side.

DROPS Design 25.11.2019 kl. 09:02:

Hei Kristian. På siste omgang du strikker rundt, felles det til ermhull (6 masker til hvert ermhull). Nå strikkes forstykket og bakstykket hver for seg OG NÅ begynner du med fellingen på begynnelsen av hver pinne. I str. XL skal du felle av 2 masker i hver side 4 ganger (du har da strikket 8 pinner og felt 16 masker), deretter feller du 1 maske i hver side 4 ganger (du har da strikket 8 nye pinner og felt 8 masker til). Til sammen har du strikket 16 pinner og har felt 12 masker i hver side, = 24 felte masker. God Fornøyelse!

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