DROPS / 131 / 43

Chili by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS short socks with cable in "Alaska".

DROPS design: Pattern no NE-060
Yarn group C
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Sizes:
US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 9½/10½
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 – 41/43
Foot length: 22-24-27 cm / 8¾”-9½”-10½”
Leg length: 4 - 4 - 4 cm / 1½''-1½''-1½''

Materials: DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
100-100-100 g color no 10, red

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 4.5 mm / US 7 - or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.75 $ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 2.75 $ /50g
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DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 2.75 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
HEEL DECREASE (worked in stockinette st):
Row 1 (= RS): Work until 6-7-7 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): Work until 6-7-7 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 3 (= RS): Work until 5-6-6 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 4 (= WS): Work until 5-6-6 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st before every dec until 9-11-11 sts remain on needle.
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SOCK:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 42-48-48 sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Alaska. K 2 rounds, then work 5 rounds rib K 1/P 1. Work next round as follows: Continue in rib K 1/P 1 over the first 27-33-33 sts, diagram M.1 (= 15 sts). REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue like this until piece measures 4-4-4 cm / 1½"-1½"-1½".
Now divide the sts as follows: Slip the following sts on a stitch holder for mid on top of foot: K 1, P 1, K 1, diagram M.1, K 1, P 1, K 1 = 21-21-21 sts, keep the remaining 21-27-27 sts on needle for heel.
Work rib back and forth over heel sts for 5-5.5-6 cm / 2''-2¼''-2 3/8'' – NOTE - on last row from WS, dec to 19-23-23 sts by evenly K2 tog. Insert 1 marker in the middle of heel – now measures piece from here.
Then work HEEL DECREASE - see explanation above! After heel dec, knit up 9-10-12 sts on each side of heel in outermost st and slip the 21-21-21 sts from stitch holder back on needle = 48-52-56 sts.
Insert 1 marker on each side of the 21-23-25 sts on mid on top of foot (= 3-4-5 sts in rib on each side of diagram M.1).
Continue in stockinette st under foot and stockinette st on each side of heel and diagram M.1 with rib on each side - AT THE SAME TIME dec in each side as follows:

K the 2 last sts before marker on top of foot twisted tog and K the first 2 sts after marker on top of foot tog. Repeat dec every other round a total of 6-7-7 times = 36-38-42 sts.
Continue until piece measures 16-18-21 cm / 6 1/4"-7"-8 1/4" from marker on heel - adjust to finish after 1 whole repetition of diagram M.1 = approx. 6-6-6 cm / 2½"-2½"-2½" remain until finished measurements. Insert 1 marker in each side so that there are 19-19-21 sts under foot and 17-19-21 st on top of foot (= 1-2-3 sts on each side of M.1).
Beg dec for toes.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! – NOTE - The dec under foot and on top of foot are uneven but the dec are worked on the same round.
DEC for toes under foot: Dec inside markers as follows: K the 2 sts after the marker twisted tog and K the 2 sts before the marker tog. Repeat dec on every other round a total of 4-4-4 times, then on every round a total of 3-3-4 times.
DEC for toes on top of foot:
Work diagram M.2 over M.1 (1-2-3 sts on each side of diagram M.1 are worked in rib as before).
After dec for toes = 10-12-14 sts remain on needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K
= P
= P 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
= K 2 tog
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 131-43) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (48)

Dusica 14.03.2019 - 10:18:

I finished heel decrease but really have problem understanding the part afterwards.on the needle with 11 heel sts(size 38)I picked up 10 sts and now have 21 sts on that needle.Do I add sts from holder and than 10 sts from the other side to this 1 needle or? After that,stockinette st on heel is clear but on each side of heel and M1 diagram with rib? Please explain this part a bit more detailed .Thank you.

DROPS Design 14.03.2019 kl. 10:32:

Dear Dusica, after heel decreases have been worked, pick up 10 sts along left side of heel, slip the 21 sts from upper foot back on needle and pick up 10 sts along right side of heel. Insert a marker inside 1 st of the picked up sts on left and right side of heel and work these sts purled, so that you will have: marker, P1 (new st), K1, P1, K1, (= 4 sts in rib before M.1) M1 (= 15 sts), K1,P1,K1 (sts from st holder), P1 (= 4 sts in rib after M.1). Happy knitting!

Dusica 10.03.2019 - 20:02:

At the beginning, where it says now devide the sts as follows : slip sts on holder for mid on top of foot K1,P1,K1,M1 diagram, K1,P1,K1=21 sts....do I work these sts or simply place them on holder?

DROPS Design 10.03.2019 kl. 20:21:

Hi Dusica, simply place these sts on holder, without working them. Happy knitting!

Lora Huey 08.01.2019 - 14:55:

Just finished a pair, love, love, love them ! The pattern is not hard if you pay close attention to it and follow it to the letter . Know I will be making many more of these socks.

Katty.c 21.12.2018 - 00:40:

Très joli modèle qui réclame de l'attention mais avec un peu de concentration, on y arrive !

Guilbert 16.01.2018 - 06:44:

J’ai bien réalisé ce modèle. Mais je crois que j’ai fait la pointe un peu plus longue et la tige aussi. Mais je suis ravie du résultat. Sauf que je n’ai pas suivi votre méthode du rétrécis, car pour moi il était carré alors j’ai démonté et fais autrement. Peut on vous envoyer une photo. Merci de vos modèles je me régale à les réaliser. Cordialement Gisele de l’Aveyron

Mia 21.09.2017 - 16:03:

A bit confused: "Continue in rib K 1/P 1 over the first 27-33-33 sts, diagram M.1 (= 15 sts). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue like this until piece measures 4-4-4 cm" 1) is the diagram (chart) RS rows only or all rows? If RS only how should I work WS? 2) for the first 27-33-33 sts, I assume it'll be rib on both RS and WS rows? Please confirm Thanks

DROPS Design 21.09.2017 kl. 16:45:

Dear Mia, diagram is showing all rows (1 square = 1 st x 1 row). Socks are worked in the round, so that you will knit rib in the round, then rib over the first 27-33-33 sts as before, and work M.1 over the last sts on round. Happy knitting!

Marie 28.06.2017 - 15:26:

Bonjour, Peut-on remplacer Drops Alaska par Drops Big Merino pour réaliser ces chaussons car Drops Big Merino est traitée superwash, ce qui est pratique pour des chaussons ? Merci

DROPS Design 28.06.2017 kl. 18:04:

Bonjour Marie, tout à fait, retrouvez ici comment calculer la quantité. Vous pouvez également utiliser 2 fils Fabel pour plus de solidité (explications sur la même page). Bon tricot!

M-C Juteau 02.01.2017 - 20:18:

Re bonjour, Quand je suis rendue aux diminutions pour la pointe, on dit : placer un marqueur de chaque côté, espacés de 19m pour le dessous du pied (j'ai fait la première grandeur soit 42 M) et 17m pour le dessus (= 1-2-3m de chaque côté de M1) Moi, j'ai toujours pur le dessus du pied 21m dont 3 de chaque côté des 15m du patron M. Alors pourquoi 17m pour le dessus? Merci encore

DROPS Design 03.01.2017 kl. 09:10:

Bonjour Mme Juteau, pour la pointe, on tricote M.2 au-dessus de M.1 (= 15 m pour les 2 diagrammes) - décalez vos marqueurs pour avoir 17 m au lieu de 21 soit les 15 m de M.1 + 1 m de chaque côté et diminuez dans M.2 comme indiqué pour la pointe, et diminuez pour le dessous du pied comme indiqué. Bon tricot!

Marie C Juteau 03.12.2016 - 19:46:

Bonjour, Après les diminutions, est- ce que j'ai bien 19m pour le dessous et côté et 17m pour le dessus du pied? Merci beaucoup

DROPS Design 05.12.2016 kl. 09:12:

Bonjour Mme Juteau, les diminutions pour le pied se font de part et d'autres des 21 m du dessus du pied - quand les diminutions sont faites, vous devez toujours avoir 21 m pour le dessus du pied, seul le nombre de mailles du dessous du pied (mailles relevées de chaque côté du talon + talon) va diminuer. Bon tricot!

Kerry 15.11.2016 - 15:56:

What do you mean by " work diagram m2 over m1"?

DROPS Design 15.11.2016 kl. 16:32:

Dear Kerry, the 15 sts in M.2 should be worked over the 15 sts in M.1, ie instead of working M.1 over these 15 sts, work now M.2. Happy knitting!

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