DROPS design: Pattern no FA-148
US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 9½/10½
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 – 41/43

Foot length: 22-24-27 cm / 8¾”-9½”-10½”
Sock height: approx. 7-8-9 cm / 2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3½''

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50-50-100 g color no 103, grayblue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 – or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.75 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1.

Row 1 (= RS): Work until 5-5-6 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): Work until 5-5-6 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece.
Row 3 (= RS): Work until 4-4-5 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece.
Row 4 (= WS): Work until 4-4-5 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st before each dec until there are 13-13-15 sts on needle.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 50-56-60 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 with Fabel. K 1 round, continue in rib = K1/P1 for 2-2-3 cm / 3/4"-3/4"-3 1/8". Now keep the first 21-21-25 sts on needle for heel and slip the last 29-35-35 sts on a stitch holder (= mid upper foot). Work in stockinette st back and forth on heel sts for 5-5.5-6 cm / 2''-2¼''-2 3/8''. Insert a marker in the middle of heel - now measure piece from here! Now dec for heel - see HEEL DECREASE! After heel dec, knit up 13-14-15 sts along each side of heel and slip the 29-35-35 sts from stitch holder back on needle = 68-76-80 sts. Insert a marker in each side of the middle 29-29-35 sts on upper foot. Continue in stockinette st under foot, work the 29-29-35 sts on upper foot as follows: M.1A (= 2 sts), repeat M.1B over the next 24-24-30 sts (= 4-4-5 times) and finish with M.1C (= 3 sts).
AT THE SAME TIME dec each side as follows: K tog the 2 last sts before the 29-29-35 sts twisted (i.e knit in the back loop instead of front) and K tog the first 2 sts after the middle 29-29-35 sts on upper foot. Repeat the dec every other round a total of 10-12-12 times = 48-52-56 sts. Continue until piece measures 18-19-22 cm / 7"-7½"-8 3/4" from marker on heel (= approx. 4-5-5 cm / 1½"-2"-2" remain). Insert a marker in the first st in each side so that there are 23-25-27 sts on upper foot and 23-25-27 sts under foot.
Continue in stockinette st over all sts while AT THE SAME TIME dec for toes in each side of the markers as follows - beg 2 sts before the marker: K2 tog, K1 (marker is in this st), K2 twisted tog. Continue dec in each side on every other round a total of 4-7-6 times and then on each round a total of 6-4-6 times = 8 sts left on needle. Cut the thread and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 30.04.2020
New chart M.1 (row 3).


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to
K, K2 tog, psso,
1 YO.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 129-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (55)

country flag Alicia wrote:

Bonjour Je voudrais savoir pour la taille 38/40. On nous demande de laisser 35 m en attente pour le dessus du pieds. Et au moment de commencer le motif nous devons utiliser uniquement 29m. Alors que pour les 2 autres tailles il n'y a pas de différences. Cela n'est pas vraiment dérangeant puisque le motif va pour les 2 nombres de mailles.

10.02.2021 - 10:59:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Alicia, tout à fait, on ne tricote que les 29 mailles du dessus du pied en point fantaisie, autrement dit, les 3 premières de ces 35 mailles vont se tricoter en jersey, les 29 suivantes en point fantaisie et les 3 dernières en jersey. Bon tricot!

10.02.2021 kl. 12:00:

country flag Joan wrote:

I have reached the part where I have 76 stitches and then you say to put a marker beside the 29 stitches from upper foot. Is the upper foot where you did the stocking stitch on two needles for 5/1/2 cm because there is only 13 stitches on there? Do I add to those 13 some of the picked up side stitched to make 29 stitches? It is very unclear.

26.11.2020 - 02:39:

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Joan, The markers are on each side of 29 stitches on top of the foot; so this consists of the 13 stitches and 8 stitches on each side of the 13 stitches. Happy knitting!

26.11.2020 kl. 10:21:

country flag May wrote:

Hi, sorry, this is my first time trying to knit socks so I don't quite understand the instructions... after the heel decrease, how should I 'knit up 13-14-15 sts along each side of the heel'? is there a video I can refer to for this?

27.08.2020 - 18:18:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear May, this video shows how to knt a heel and from time code 5:50 how to work this round picking up sts along each side of heel. Happy knitting!

28.08.2020 kl. 08:06:

country flag Janet wrote:

Are you able to convert the socks to toe up pattern using circular needles? Also knitting 2 socks with 2 circular needles too? Beautiful pattern.

04.07.2020 - 05:44:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Janet, please understand that we cannot alter our patterns to each induvidual request, We have a number of sock-patterns that knitted tow up, íou are welcome to use those as a base and combine with the patterning of this sock. Happy Knitting!

06.07.2020 kl. 03:36:

country flag Linda Douglas wrote:

Dear Drops, this sock pattern is incorrect. the M1 pattern should be throughout the leg and the foot but you do not make menion of that at all. I wish you would put some effort into your patterns as they've always been written poorly. The lazy way. But nothing we say will make you change. At least i got it off my chest.

14.06.2020 - 16:19:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Douglas, The DROPS patterns are knitted and crocheted by thousands and thousands of people  around the world. We understand however that in certain countries, with different knitting/crochet traditions than Scandinavia, our patterns might be written in a way that differs from what some are used to. But of course we want everyone to understand our patterns, so that’s why we have created an extensive library of tutorial videos as well as step by step lessons that explain how to follow the techniques we use. In these socks, lace pattern M.1 is worked only on top of foot, not around the sock (heel/under foot/toe sections are worked plain). Happy knitting!

15.06.2020 kl. 10:08:

country flag Veronica Sundberg wrote:

Hei, på runde 7 av mønsteret. Hvordan skal man starte? Hvis man skal starte med M.1A så er det jo en kombinasjon som krever 3 masker?

05.05.2020 - 17:01:

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Veronica, du starter med 1 ret, strikker mønsteret over 3 masker, 3 ret, mønster over 3 masker og således har du 3 ret imellem hver mønster. God fornøjelse!

06.05.2020 kl. 08:39:

country flag Anita wrote:

Der diagrammer stemmer ikke ut i fra hva jeg kan se på bildet og når jeg strikker. Skal ikke mønsteret forskyves en maske til høyre på 3.omgang?

29.04.2020 - 00:08:

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anita, Tak for info, du har helt ret, vi flytter mønsteret på 3.pind en maske til højre. Der bliver lagt et nyt diagram ud imorgen :)

29.04.2020 kl. 08:47:

country flag Diane Savage wrote:

Hi. I'm trying to make the neptunia socks and I cannot figure out that diagram.

11.04.2020 - 02:48:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Savage, this lesson explains how to read a knitting diagram; you will have to start the lace pattern with the 2 sts in M.1A, then repeat M.1B until 3 sts remain, and finish then the lace pattern with M.1C. Hope this helps, happy knitting!

14.04.2020 kl. 10:55:

country flag Neeti wrote:

For the upper foot, over the 29-29-35 stiches, while doing the M.1 pattern, do we repeat it on evey row? The photo shows a gap of about 3 rows and the 2nd repeat does not seem to be exactly above the first one. Can you please specify the repeat and the displacement, if any? Thanks.

26.01.2020 - 19:20:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Neeti, when working M.1 you will have a total of 3 rows between each lace pattern. When you have worked the diagram one time to the end, repeat it from the first row = there will be 3 rows between each lace pattern, and lace pattern will be repeat. Happy knitting!

27.01.2020 kl. 09:51:

country flag Linda Langlois wrote:

Bonjour, mon questionnement se situe au début du rang 7 c'est-à-dire: est-ce que je commence par une maille endroit selon le graphique ou si je dois faire le M.1A (2 mailles) avant le commencer le M.1B. Le nombre de répétition du motif est-il 4 fois comme le rang 3? J'ai essayé de le faire en commençant par 1 m. end., 1 jeté et en continuant avec le M.1B et en terminant le rang par 1 m. end. mais j'arrive à 5 répétitions au lieu de 4. Est-ce correct?

07.11.2019 - 15:10:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Langlois, vous devez toujours tricoter: 1 x M.1A, puis vous répétez M.1B et terminez par M.1C, au 7ème rang de M.1, tricotez les 2 premières m de A, puis vous répétez les mailles de B et terminez par les mailes de C - cf réponse ci-dessous pour le détail des mailles du 7ème rang. Bon tricot!

07.11.2019 kl. 15:23:

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