DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
DROPS Baby 20-10 / Suggest a name
DROPS design: Pattern no ME-032-by
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Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Waist: 48-50-52 (56-58) cm / 19"-19¾"-20½" (22"-22¾")
Full length: 36-42-46 (52-59) cm / 14¼"-16½"-18" (20½"-23¼")

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
150-150-150 (200-200) g color no 07, light brown mix.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16") size 4.5 mm / US 7 – or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stockinette st on 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16") size 3.5 mm/ US 4 (for rib).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PANTS:

DECREASING TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
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PANTS:
Worked in the round on needle from waist down.
Cast on 110-114-118 (130-134) sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with light brown mix. Work rib, K1/P1 for 8-9-9 (10-10) cm / 3⅛"-3½"-3½" (4"-4").
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and work next round as follows: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, work stockinette st on the next 39-41-43 (49-51) sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-6-6 (8-8) sts evenly = 33-35-37 (41-43) sts stockinette st, * P1, K1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times, P1, stockinette st on the next 41-43-45 (51-53) sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-8-8 (10-10) sts evenly = 33-35-37 (41-43) sts stockinette st, * P1, K1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with P1.
There are now 96-100-104 (112-116) sts on needle.
Insert 1 marker in the middle st at front and 1 marker in the middle st at back (= 47-49-51 (55-57) sts between sts with markers). Continue in the round in stockinette st and 15 sts in rib each side.
REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 11-13-14 (16-17) cm / 4⅜"-5⅛"-5½" (6¼"-6¾") inc 1 st each side of the 3 middle sts at front - inc by picking up st from previous round and K this. Repeat the inc on every other round a total of 9-9-9 (10-10) times = 114-118-122 (132-136) sts. After all inc piece measures approx 18-20-21 (23-24) cm / 7"-8"-8¼" (9"-9½"). On next round bind off the 3 middle sts at front and the 3 middle sts at back (i.e. st with marker and 1 st each side of this st) and work each leg separately. Slip the 54-56-58 (63-65) sts for one leg on a stitch holder and the 54-56-58 (63-65) sts for the other leg on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7.

LEG:
Continue in stockinette st in the round with 15 sts rib on the outside of leg as before – insert a marker at beg of round = inside of leg. When leg measures 2-2-2 (3-3) cm / ¾"-¾"-¾" (1⅛"-1⅛") dec 1 st on each side of marker – SEE DECREASING TIP! Repeat the dec on every 2-3-3.5 (4-5.5) cm / ¾"-1⅛"-1¼" (1½"-2¼") a total of 5 times = 44-46-48 (53-55) sts.
When leg measures 12-16-18 (22-27) cm / 4¾"-6¼"-7" (8¾"-10⅝") change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work 1 round stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-4-6 (5-5) sts evenly – NOTE! Do not inc on rib sts at the side = 48-50-54 (58-60) sts. Continue in rib, K1/P1 in the round on all sts (make sure rib fits rib at the side). When leg measures 18-22-25 (29-35) cm / 7"-8¾"-9¾" (11⅜"-13¾") (pants measure a total of 36-42-46 (52-59) cm / 14¼"-16½"-18" (20½"-23¼") from the waist) bind off LOOSELY with K over K and P over P. Work the other leg in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew opening between legs.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 21.01.2011
PANTS:
...* K1, P1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, work stockinette st on the next 39-41-43 (49-51) sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-6-6 (8-8) sts evenly = 33-35-37 (41-43) sts stockinette st, * P1, K1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times, P1, stockinette st on the next 41-43-45 (51-53) sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-8-8 (10-10) sts evenly = 33-35-37 (41-43) sts stockinette st, * P1, K1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with P1.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (92)

country flag Regina Hapka wrote:

2. Frage: Ich hatte bei der Aufnahme der Maschen, es erst so verstanden, daß man bei den mittleren 3 M jeweils li. Und re. Je eine M aufnimmt. Nur dann komme ich nicht mit insgesamt 9x wiederholen nicht nur auf 114 M.

03.07.2024 - 17:21

DROPS Design answered:

Siehe Antwort unten :)

04.07.2024 - 08:22

country flag Regina Hapka wrote:

Wenn ich jeweils in der Mitte der 3 M jede 2. R eine M aufnehmen soll, frag ich mich wo. Denn wenn ich eine ungerade Zahl habe, also 3, dann nehme ich die M li. Oder re. auf?

03.07.2024 - 17:16

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Hapka, es wird jeweils 2 Maschen (1 beidseitig von den 3 mittleren Maschen vorne) insgesamt 9 Mal zugenommen = 18 + 96 Maschen davor = 114 Maschen. Die neuen Maschen stricken Sie glatt rechts (wie die mittleren Maschen vorne). Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

04.07.2024 - 08:21

country flag Adriana wrote:

Hi there, I believe something has been changed lately on this site, since I don't find anymore under the patterns the part that was saying: "Do you need help for this pattern? See the videos below". It was a very important and helpful for me to find the pattern and the related video also. Thank you, anyway, for the wonderful work you do daily.

19.03.2024 - 17:45

country flag MH wrote:

Hei Jeg strikker str 6/9 og har lagt opp 114 masker, men når jeg har byttet pinne og skal starte med vrangbord i sidene og dere mener det liksom skal gå opp med deres regnestykke, går ikke det opp med noe av det jeg får til i mitt hode? Etter den siste runden med felling har jeg enda mange masker igjen får jeg kan starte på de siste 3 med rett og vrang?? Gjør jeg noe feil, eller er oppskriften litt misvisende?

31.12.2023 - 11:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hei MH. Du skal felle 6 masker jevnt fordelt over 41 masker. Du må da felle vekselsvis hver 5-6 og 6-7 maske. Du vil da få 35 masker før du starter med 1 rett/ 1 vrang i siden. Det samme gjøre du når du skal strikke glattstrikk over de neste 41 masker. mvh DROPS Design

08.01.2024 - 14:34

country flag Monika Dahlke - Friedrich wrote:

Guten Abend, ich habe den Bund gestrickt u. verstehe nicht, wie es weiter geht. Was bedeuten die Sternchen? Gibt es ein Video? Lg Monika

13.12.2023 - 18:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Monika, nach den Bündchen stricken Sie jetzt das Rippenmuster auf den beiden Seiten weiter aber jetzt Tricken Sie glatt rechts dazwischen: die Runden beginnen an einer Seite, so stricken Sie zuerst 8 Maschen wie zuvor(= (1 M re, 1 M li) x 4), 39 bis 51 Maschen (siehe Größe) glatt rechts und 6-8 Maschen abnehmen (jetzt sind es nur noch 33 bis 43 Maschen Glattrechts), dann stricken Sie 15 Maschen wie zuvor (= (1 M li, 1 M re) x 7, dann 1 M li), dann nochmal glatt rechts mit Abnahmen stricken, und die letzten 7 Maschen wie zuvor (= (1 M li, 1 M re)x3 und 1 M li). So stricken Sie weiter. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.12.2023 - 08:24

country flag Stephanie Van Den Plas wrote:

Hallo, Ik ben de broek in de 2e maat aan het breien 6/9. Kunnen jullie mij zeggen wat de juiste afmetingen zijn van de boorsteek en het eerste stuk tot aan de splitsing van de pijpen? In het patroon staat 9cm voor de boord en 13cm tot aan de splitsing van de pijpen. op de tekening staat 9cm voor de boord en 11cm voor de pijpen. Dat lijkt niet te kloppen.

21.11.2023 - 07:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Stephanie,

In het patroon staat 18-20-21 (23-24) cm. Dus 20 cm voor jouw maat.

21.11.2023 - 22:57

country flag Jutta Stehmeier wrote:

Vorne und hinten in der Mitte je einen Markierungsfaden einziehen (= 47-49-51 (55-57) M. zwischen den Fäden). Glatt mit je 15 M. Bündchen auf beiden Seiten stricken. Ab hier bin ich raus! Verstehe nicht wie es weiter geht. Habe 112 Maschen auf der Nadel und 15 Maschen rechts plus Bündchen? Bündchen sind wieviel Maschen? Sorry aber ich brauch da mal Hilfe. Lg Jutta

07.11.2023 - 23:21

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Jutta, in die 4. Größe haben Sie 112 Maschen so verteilt: 14 Maschen Bündchen (1 re, 1 li), 41 Maschen glatt rechts, 15 M Bündchen (= 7 Mal (1 li, 1 re) + 1 li); 41 Maschen glatt rechts, 1 M li = 112 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.11.2023 - 08:27

country flag Andrea wrote:

Hallo. Ich glaube, die Anleitung genau befolgt zu haben. Aber wenn ich dort weitermache, nachdem ich die 104 Maschen auf der Nadel habe (die 3. Größe), dann habe ich die Bündchenmaschen vorne und hinten und nicht an der Seite. Was habe ich falsch gemacht? Danke im Voraus

03.11.2023 - 16:59

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Andrea, die Runden beginnen hinten, nach den Bündchen an einer Seite, so haben Sie: 37 M glatt rechts + 1 5 Maschen Bündchen + 37 M glatt rechts +15 M Bündchen= 104 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.11.2023 - 07:49

country flag Helle Ratz wrote:

Hej Blir de ikke meget løse uden elastik i taljen? Jeg strikker str 3-4 år. Kan man evt folde de 10 cm rib i starten af opskriften, strikke fokdet kant (til elastik) og så bare fortsætte opskriften?

22.02.2023 - 19:31

country flag Britt wrote:

Hei. Jeg strikker den minste str. Starter med 8cm ribbestrikk. Deretter skal det felles 6 masker på den ene siden og 8 masker på den andre. Etter 11cm skal det økes 1m foran på hver side av midtmasken. Men hva er da foran og bak? Er den siden med 6 felte masker foran? Mvh Britt

23.10.2022 - 19:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Britt, det betyder ikke noget hvilken side du vælger til foran, da du har lige mange masker foran som bagpå. :)

25.10.2022 - 13:50