DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.95$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

DROPS Baby 20-8

Set of knitted jacket, pants and hat for baby and children with rib and crochet teddy bear in DROPS Merino Extra Fine

DROPS Baby 20-8
DROPS design: Pattern no ME-044-by + ME-032-by + ME-045-by + ME-028-by
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JACKET
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 46-52-58 (64-70) cm / 18"-20½"-22 3/4" (25 1/4"-27½")
Full length: 30-32-36 (41-45) cm / 11 3/4"-12½"-14 1/4" (16 1/8"-17 3/4")

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
200-250-250 (300-300) g color no 08, light beige mix

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') size 4.5 mm/ US 7 - or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') size 3.5 mm/ US 4 – for rib.

DROPS COCONUT BUTTON, no 516: 4-4-5 (5-5) pcs..
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PANTS:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Waist: 48-50-52 (56-58) cm / 19"-19 3/4"-20½" (22"-22 3/4")
Full length: 36-42-46 (52-59) cm / 14 1/4"-16½"-18" (20½"-23 1/4")

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
150-150-150 (200-200) g color no 07, light brown mix.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') size 4.5 mm / US 7 – or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stockinette st on 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') size 3.5 mm/ US 4 (for rib).
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HAT:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Head circumference: approx: 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52) cm / 16''-17''-18'' (19''-20'').

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
50-50-50 (100-100) g color no 08, light beige mix

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') size 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') size 3.5 mm/US 4 – for rib.
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BEAR:
Measure: length approx 30 cm / 11 3/4''

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
50 g color no 07, light brown mix
50 g color no 19, light gray/blue
a remnant color no 01, off-white
a remnant color no 15, light gray/green
And use: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
a remnant color no 151, guacamole
a remnant color no 400, black (for eyes)

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 19 sc x 10 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4'' – NOTE: Measure when piece is lying flat. The bear will fill out when filled with poly stuffing.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C (for hearts).

POLY STUFFING for filling.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.95$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
JACKET:
INCREASING TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row work YO into back of loop to avoid a hole.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band.
1 BUTTONHOLE = bind off 4th front band st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on return row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE 1/3 MONTHS: 6, 12, 18 and 24 cm / 2 3/8", 4 3/4", 7" and 9½".
SIZE 6/9 MONTHS: 8, 14, 20 and 26 cm / 3 1/8", 5½", 8" and 10 1/4".
SIZE 12/18 MONTHS: 5, 11, 17, 23 and 29 cm / 2", 4 3/8", 6 3/4", 9" and 11 3/8".
SIZE 2 YEARS: 5, 12, 19, 26 and 33 cm / 2", 4 3/4", 7½", 10 1/4" and 13".
SIZE 3/4 YEARS: 9, 16, 23, 30 and 37 cm / 3½", 6 1/4", 9", 11 3/4" and 14½".
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
With Merino Extra Fine and circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 cast on 151-167-185 (201-219) sts. Work rib K1/P1. When rib measures 2-2-2 (3-3) cm / 3/4''-3/4''-3/4'' (1 1/8''-1 1/8'') change to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work next row from RS as follows:
Rib K1/P1 on the first 6 sts, stockinette st on the next 139-155-173 (189-207) sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 40-44-50 (54-60) sts evenly, finish with rib P1/K1 on the last 6 sts = 111-123-135 (147-159) sts. 6 sts each side = front bands, front bands worked in rib throughout. NOTE! Remember BUTTONHOLES - see above!
Continue in stockinette st with 6 front band sts each side. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 14-15-18 (22-25) cm / 5½"-6"-7" (8 3/4"-9 3/4") (adjust to a row from WS) P 1 row from WS (front bands as before) AT THE SAME TIME inc 28-34-38 (42-48) sts evenly (do not inc on front bands) – see INCREASING TIP! = 139-157-173 (189-207) sts. Insert a marker 37-42-46 (50-55) sts in from each side (back piece = 65-73-81 (89-97) sts). Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and continue in rib K1/P1 on all sts. When piece measures 20-21-24 (28-31) cm / 8"-8 1/4"-9½" (11"-12 1/4") bind off 6 sts each side for armhole (i.e. 3 sts each side of marker - bind off with K over K and P over P) and complete each piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 59-67-75 (83-91) sts. bind off to shape the armhole at beg of every row each side: 2 sts 3-3-2 (2-2) times and 1 st 0-0-1 (1-1) times = 47-55-65 (73-81) sts. When piece measures 28-30-34 (39-43) cm / 11"-11 3/4"-13 3/8" (15 1/4"-17") bind off the middle 25-29-31 (33-35) sts for neck (bind off with K over K and P over P) and complete each shoulder separately = 11-13-17 (20-23) sts. Continue in rib as before with 1 garter st towards neck. Bind off with K over K and P over P when piece measures 30-32-36 (41-45) cm / 11 3/4"-12½"-14 1/4" (16 1/8"-17 3/4").

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 34-39-43 (47-52) sts. Bind off for armhole at the side as described for back piece = 28-33-38 (42-47) sts. When piece measures 26-28-31 (35-39) cm / 10 1/4"-11"-12 1/4" (13 3/4"-15 1/4") bind off 17-20-21 (22-24) sts towards mid front for neck (bind off with K over K and P over P) = 11-13-17 (20-23) sts left on shoulder. Continue in rib as before with 1 garter st towards neck. Bind off with K over K and P over P when piece measures 30-32-36 (41-45) cm / 11 3/4"-12½"-14 1/4" (16 1/8"-17 3/4").

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 34-39-43 (47-52) sts. Like left front piece but mirrored.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round. With double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 cast on 42-44-44 (48-48) sts on. Insert a marker at beg of round. Work rib K1/P1 until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' inc 1 st each side of marker – incorporate inc sts in rib as you go along. Repeat the inc on every 3-2-1.5 (2-2) cm / 1 1/8"-3/4"-½" (3/4"-3/4") a total of 4-6-9 (10-12) times = 50-56-62 (68-72) sts. When piece measures 17-18-20 (25-29) cm / 6 3/4"-7"-8" (9 3/4"-11 3/8") bind off 6 sts under sleeve for armhole (i.e. 3 sts each side of marker) and complete piece back and forth on needle. Bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row each side: 2-3-3 (4-4) sts until piece measures 21-22-24 (29-33) cm / 8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9½" (11 3/8"-13"), now bind off 3 sts each side and bind off remaining sts with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves and sew on buttons.
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PANTS:

DECREASING TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
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PANTS:
Worked in the round on needle from waist down.
Cast on 110-114-118 (130-134) sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with light brown mix. Work rib, K1/P1 for 8-9-9 (10-10) cm / 3 1/8"-3½"-3½" (4"-4").
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and work next round as follows: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, work stockinette st on the next 39-41-43 (49-51) sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-6-6 (8-8) sts evenly = 33-35-37 (41-43) sts stockinette st, * P1, K1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times, P1, stockinette st on the next 41-43-45 (51-53) sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-8-8 (10-10) sts evenly = 33-35-37 (41-43) sts stockinette st, * P1, K1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with P1.
There are now 96-100-104 (112-116) sts on needle.
Insert 1 marker in the middle st at front and 1 marker in the middle st at back (= 47-49-51 (55-57) sts between sts with markers). Continue in the round in stockinette st and 15 sts in rib each side.
REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 11-13-14 (16-17) cm / 4 3/8"-5 1/8"-5½" (6 1/4"-6 3/4") inc 1 st each side of the 3 middle sts at front - inc by picking up st from previous round and K this. Repeat the inc on every other round a total of 9-9-9 (10-10) times = 114-118-122 (132-136) sts. After all inc piece measures approx 18-20-21 (23-24) cm / 7"-8"-8 1/4" (9"-9½"). On next round bind off the 3 middle sts at front and the 3 middle sts at back (i.e. st with marker and 1 st each side of this st) and work each leg separately. Slip the 54-56-58 (63-65) sts for one leg on a stitch holder and the 54-56-58 (63-65) sts for the other leg on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7.

LEG:
Continue in stockinette st in the round with 15 sts rib on the outside of leg as before – insert a marker at beg of round = inside of leg. When leg measures 2-2-2 (3-3) cm / 3/4''-3/4''-3/4'' (1 1/8''-1 1/8'') dec 1 st on each side of marker – SEE DECREASING TIP! Repeat the dec on every 2-3-3.5 (4-5.5) cm / 3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/4" (1½"-2 1/4") a total of 5 times = 44-46-48 (53-55) sts.
When leg measures 12-16-18 (22-27) cm / 4 3/4"-6 1/4"-7" (8 3/4"-10 5/8") change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work 1 round stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-4-6 (5-5) sts evenly – NOTE! Do not inc on rib sts at the side = 48-50-54 (58-60) sts. Continue in rib, K1/P1 in the round on all sts (make sure rib fits rib at the side). When leg measures 18-22-25 (29-35) cm / 7"-8 3/4"-9 3/4" (11 3/8"-13 3/4") (pants measure a total of 36-42-46 (52-59) cm / 14 1/4"-16½"-18" (20½"-23 1/4") from the waist) bind off LOOSELY with K over K and P over P. Work the other leg in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew opening between legs.
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HAT:
INCREASING TIP:
Inc 1 st by making a YO. K YO into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole.
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HAT:
Worked in the round, from top down. Cast on 8-10-13 (15-18) sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 (leave a thread end to use when tightening the top tog afterwards). Work 1 round stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME inc 7-10-12 (15-17) sts evenly – see INCREASING TIP! = 15-20-25 (30-35) sts. Insert 5 markers in piece with 3-4-5 (6-7) sts between each. Continue in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME on second round inc 1 st each side of all markers. Repeat the inc on every other round a total of 6 times = 75-80-85 (90-95) sts. Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Continue in stockinette st.
When piece measures 11-12-13 (14-15) cm / 4 3/8''-4¾''-5 1/8'' (5½''-6'') inc 25-26-29 (30-31) sts evenly (inc between approx every 3rd and 4th st) = 100-106-114 (120-126) sts.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and continue in rib K1/P1 on all sts.
When rib measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'' bind off as follows - NOTE! Round beg 10-10-8 (8-7) sts before mid back: bind off 21-21-17 (17-15) sts with K over K and P over P (= mid back), slip the next 25-27-33 (35-39) sts on a stitch holder for earflap, bind off the next 29-31-31 (33-33) sts (= forehead).
Now work earflap back and forth on the last 25-27-33 (35-39) sts as follows: continue in rib K1/P1, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st at beg of every row a total of 9-10-13 (14-16) times each side = 7 sts.
On next row bind off remaining sts with K over K and P over P. Earflap measures approx 5-6-8 (8.5-10) cm / 2"-2 3/8"-3 1/8" (3 1/4"-4").
Work the other earflap in the same way. Tighten the top of hat tog and fasten thread.

TIE STRINGS:
Cut 2 strands measuring 75 cm / 30" each and twist them hard. Pull string through bottom of earflap and fold it double to let it twist again. Tie a knot at the end of string. Repeat at the other earflap.
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BEAR:

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first sc on round with ch 1 and finish each round with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.

CROCHET SC TOG:
Crochet 2 sc tog to 1 sc as follows: Insert hook in first st, pick up thread, insert hook in next st, pick up thread, make 1 YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.
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HEAD AND BODY:
Beg at the top of head and after the head crochet the body. Then crochet ears, arms, and the hearts, which are sewn on afterwards.

HEAD:
SEE CROCHET INFO! Ch 4 with hook size 4 mm / G/6 with light brown mix and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 6 sc in ring.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 18 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
ROUND 5: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 30 sc.
ROUND 6-11: 1 sc in each sc = 30 sc.
ROUND 12: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog (see above) *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
ROUND 13: 1 sc in each sc = 24 sc.
ROUND 14: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 18 sc.
ROUND 15: * 1 sc in first sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 12 sc.
Now fill the head with poly stuffing and continue in the round for body without cutting the thread.
ROUND 16-18: 1 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 19: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 16 sc. Change to off-white.
ROUND 20: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 20 sc. Change to light gray/blue.
ROUND 21: 1 sc in each sc = 20 sc. Change to light gray/green.
ROUND 22: * 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc. Change to light gray/blue.
ROUND 23: 1 sc in each sc = 24 sc. Change to light gray/green.
ROUND 24: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 30 sc. Change to off-white.
ROUND 25: 1 sc in each sc = 30 sc. Change to light gray blue and crochet the rest of the body as follows:
ROUND 26-29: 1 sc in each sc = 30 sc.
ROUND 30: * 1 sc in each of the first 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 33 sc.
ROUND 31-39: 1 sc in each sc = 33 sc.
ROUND 40: * 1 sc in each of the first 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 36 sc.
ROUND 41-46: Crochet 1 sc in each sc = 36 sc.
ROUND 47: * 1 sc in each of the first 10 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 33 sc.
ROUND 48: 1 sc in each sc = 33 sc.
ROUND 49: * 1 sc in each of the first 9 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 30 sc.
ROUND 50: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
ROUND 51: 1 sc in each sc = 24 sc.
ROUND 52: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 18 sc.
ROUND 53: 1 sc in each sc = 18 sc.
ROUND 54: * 1 sc in first sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 12 sc.
ROUND 55: Crochet 2 sc tog all the way round = 6 sc.
Fill the body with poly stuffing, cut the thread, pull thread through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.

LEGS:
Ch 4 with hook size 4 mm / G/6 with light brown mix and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 8 sc in ring.
ROUND 2: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-*= 12 sc.
ROUND 3: 1 sc in each sc = 12 sc – NOTE: Crochet in back loop of st.
ROUND 4: 1 sc in each sc = 12 sc – NOTE: Crochet through both loops again.
ROUND 5: 1 sc in each sc, at the same time crochet 2 sc tog at the beg and at the end of round = 10 sc.
ROUND 6: 1 sc in each sc, at the same time crochet tog 5th and 6th sc and crochet tog 7th and 8th sc on round = 8 sc.
Cut the thread. Crochet 1 more leg in the same way. Fill the legs with poly stuffing and sew the legs to bottom of body.

ARMS:
Ch 4 with hook size 4 mm / G/6 with light brown mix and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 4 sc in ring.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in each sc = 8 sc.
ROUND 3-6: 1 sc in each sc = 8 sc. Change to light gray/green.
ROUND 7: 1 sc in each sc = 8 sc.
Fill the arm with poly stuffing, place piece flat and crochet 1 sc in each sc through both layers = 4 sc. Cut the thread. Crochet 1 more arm in the same way and sew arms to the side of body at the top.

EARS:
Ch 4 with hook size 4 mm / G/6 with light brown mix and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 6 sc in ring.
ROUND 2: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 9 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 12 sc.
ROUND 4-6: 1 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
Place piece flat and crochet 1 sc in each sc through both layers = 6 sc, turn piece and crochet 2 sc tog across the row = 3 sc.
Cut the thread and sew ear to the top of head to the side. Crochet 1 more ear and attach to the opposite side of head.

SMALL HEART:
Ch 2 with hook size 3 mm / C with guacamole (try to find a yellow section of the yarn) and crochet 3 sc in first ch, turn piece. Ch 1, then 1 sc in each st = 5 sc (includes ch at beg and end of row), turn piece. Crochet ch 3, 1 dc in first ch, 1 sc in middle of heart, ch 3, 1 dc in first ch, 1 sl st in ch from beg of previous row.
Cut the thread and sew the heart to the front of bear.

LARGE HEART:
Ch 2 with hook size 3 mm / C with guacamole (try to find a yellow section of the yarn) and crochet 3 sc in first ch, turn piece. Ch 1, then 1 sc in each st = 5 sc (includes ch at beg and end of row), turn piece.
Ch 1, then 1 sc in each st = 6 sc (includes ch at beg of row), turn piece.
Ch 4, 1 dc in first ch, 1 sc in the middle of heart, ch 4,1 dc in first ch, 1 sl st in ch from beg of previous row. Cut the thread and sew the heart to the front of bear. Crochet 1 more heart and sew to the back of bear.

SCARF:
Ch 4 with hook size 3 mm / C with guacamole, crochet 1 sc in second ch from hook and 1 sc in each of the next 2 ch = 3 sc + ch 1, turn piece. Now crochet 4 sc back and forth until scarf measures approx 25-30 cm / 9 3/4"-11 3/4". Cut the thread and fasten.

Embroider eyes and mouth at the front of bear with black.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 07.09.2011
HAT:...continue in rib K1/P1, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st at beg of every row a total of 9-10-13 (14-16) times EACH SIDE = 7 sts.
Updated online: 10.10.2011
PANTS:
...* K1, P1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, work stockinette st on the next 39-41-43 (49-51) sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-6-6 (8-8) sts evenly = 33-35-37 (41-43) sts stockinette st, * P1, K1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times, P1, stockinette st on the next 41-43-45 (51-53) sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-8-8 (10-10) sts evenly = 33-35-37 (41-43) sts stockinette st, * P1, K1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with P1.
Updated online: 11.10.2011
Hat:... Earflap measures approx 5-6-8 (8.5-10) cm / 2"-2 3/8"-3 1/8" (3 1/4"-4").
Updated online: 12.02.2013
Corrected yarn amount:
200-250-250 (300-300) g color no 08, light beige mix

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Liz M wrote:

I have a problem with the sleeve Pattern says ‘ Cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row each side: 2-3-3 (4-4) sts until piece measures 21-22-24 (29-33) cm, ’ - does this mean every row for four cm or once then carry on for four cm? Thanks

15.09.2023 - 02:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Liz, You cast off the correct number of stitches at the beginning of every row, until the piece measures the length stated. So if it is 4 sts you are casting off each time, then cast off 4sts at the beginning of every row to finished length. Happy knitting!

15.09.2023 - 06:40

country flag Marie Simonová wrote:

Ve Vašem popise máte špatně dané počty ok v rozložení na zadní a přední díly ( nepočítá se s odečtem dříve uvedeným! Prosím o odpověď!

07.06.2023 - 15:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, paní Simonová, děkujeme za upozornění - v návodu chyběla mj. informace o přidávání, které počet ok opět srovná. Návod nyní prošel kompletní revizí a měl by již být zcela v pořádku (všechny jeho části). Věřím, že vám udělá radost! Hana

17.06.2023 - 09:14

country flag Dana wrote:

2×(37 plus 6 krajovych ok),coz z navodu neni patrne, je 86 ok. Plus 65 pro zadni dil je 151 ok,tj. puvodni pocet ok pred ubiranim 40 ok. Navod je cely spatne, pocitam tedy vse od prvni rady se 151 oky, a je to super! Fakt. Prosim znovu o opravu.

17.08.2022 - 18:46

country flag Dana wrote:

Dobry den, Mate v navodu kabatku spravny pocet ok? Pisete,ze se ma umistit znacku za 37.oko z kazde strany (zatim celkem 37x2=74 ok) a zbyde 65 ok pro zadni dil (74+65=139 ok). Mam ale po ubrani 40 ok pouze 111 ok!!! Udaj 139 ok se v navodu vyskytl jakonpocet ok mezi legy pred ubranim! Pokracuju dal tedy prepicitanim: Znacku za 28. oko z kazdecstrany a zbyde 55 ok pro zadni dil. Doufsm,zecse s navodem dal nejak domluvim. Prosim o opravu.

17.08.2022 - 18:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hi, if you can write your question in English, we can try to help you :)

16.11.2022 - 13:42

country flag Denise Van Dijk wrote:

I am knitting the jacket. Cast on with 3.5mm for ribbing, change to 4.5mm for stockinette stitch then change again to 3.5mm for ribbing (middle part), but it does not tell you to change back to 4.5mm for the remaining stockinette stitch. Is this correct? So the top part of the jacket after the middle ribbing the stockinette stitch is done with 3.5mm or should you change back to 4.5mm? Also is it correct the sleeves are knitted only with 3.5mm so 4.5mm is not used at all for the sleeve

05.07.2022 - 23:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Denise, The jacket is finished in rib and the sleeves are worked in rib the whole way up so, yes, you continue to use needles size 3.5 mm on the jacket and for the whole of the sleeves. Happy knitting!

06.07.2022 - 06:53

country flag Ute K wrote:

Bezüglich der Jacke: nach dem Bündchen sollen Maschen abgenommen werden...das habe ich mit unterschiedlichen Methoden ausprobiert. Ergebnis: das Bündchen klappt hoch, sobald das Strickstück etwas länger ist. Ich würde die Extramaschen des Bündchens jetzt weglassen. Ansonsten eine schöne Jacke!

22.02.2021 - 08:40

country flag Lea wrote:

Hallo, Ich bin gerade an der rechten Vorderseite und verstehe nicht so recht was "gegen den Hals abketten" bedeutet. Soll ich einfach die (bei mir) 22 äußeren Maschen abketten? Oder ist das anders gemeint. Vielen Dank für ihre Hilfe LG Lea

19.01.2021 - 21:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Lea, ja genau, beim linken Vorderteil ketten Sie die ersten 22 M am Anfang einer Rückreihe ab und beim rechten Vorderteil werden die ersten 22 M am Anfang einer Hinreihe abgekettet, diese Maschen sind für den Hals. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.01.2021 - 07:38

country flag Gry Normann wrote:

Hva menes med å strikke 1 m Rille mot slutten av forstykkene og bakstykkket på jakken?

19.09.2020 - 21:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Gry, Det betyr at den siste masken er strikket rett på alle rad (som er definisjonen av rille). God fornøyelse!

21.09.2020 - 07:01

country flag Kathleen wrote:

Answered my own question! Thanks!

25.05.2020 - 03:21

country flag Kathleen wrote:

With 42 st on either end (including band) and 73 st (odd number) in back how do I Rib K/P without affecting band?

25.05.2020 - 03:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Kathleen, The bands are worked in rib too, so the body begins and ends with K1 (on the first row) and the last band follows on with P1, K1, P1, K1 and P1. Happy knitting!

25.05.2020 - 07:31