DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 20-11
DROPS design: Pattern no FA-031-by
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Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
color no 623, rose mist:
200-200-200 (250-250) g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES size 3 mm / US 2or3 (60 cm / 24'') - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 2.5 mm / US 1 – for garter st edge.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 2 mm / B/1 – for crochet edge.

DROPS COCONUT BUTTON NO 516: 4 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

SHORTENED ROWS:
* Work 2 rows back and forth over 24-24-26 (28-28) front band sts, work 2 rows over the first 12-12-13 (14-14) sts only*. NOTE: When turning in the middle of the work, - slip the first st, tighten the thread and knit back. This is done to avoid a hole in the transition.

BUTTONHOLES:
The Jacket is double breasted with 4 buttonholes on right front band.
1 BUTTONHOLE = K tog fourth and fifth sts from the edge and make 1 YO. On same row also K tog fourth and fifth LAST sts on front band and make 1 YO.
Make 2 buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE 1/3 months: 10 and 14 cm / 4" and 5½".
SIZE 6/9 months: 11 and 15 cm/ 4 3/8" and 6".
SIZE 12/18 months: 14 and 18 cm/ 5½" and 7".
SIZE 2 years: 17 and 21 cm / 6 3/4" and 8 1/4".
SIZE 3/4 years: 19 and 23 cm/ 7½" and 9".
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Start with front piece, inc sts for sleeve and knit up to shoulder. Work the second front piece, put the 2 front pieces tog and knit down the back piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
READ ALL OF THIS SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! Cast on 43-47-51 (56-59) sts (includes 1 edge st at the side and 24-24-26 (28-28) front band sts towards front edge) on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 with Fabel. Work 6 rows garter st - see explanation above. Change to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 and work stockinette st, but garter st 24-24-26 (28-28) front band sts towards front edge.
When the piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' work SHORTENED ROWS - see above (Row 1 = from WS). Repeat from *-* 1 time every 4 cm / 1½'' until the piece measures 19-21-24 (27-30) cm / 7½"-8 1/4"-9½" (10 5/8"-11 3/4"), then repeat from *-* 1 time every 2 cm / 3/4'' to finished measurement.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 16-17-20 (23-25) cm / 6¼''-6¾''-8'' (9''-9¾'') cast on new sts at the end of every row from WS (towards the side for sleeve): 6 sts 2-2-3 (3-3) times, 8 sts 1-1-1 (2-3) times and 21-22-22 (25-26) sts 1 time = 84-89-99 (115-127) sts for shoulder/sleeve. Inc sts are worked in stockinette st. When all sts are cast on continue with stockinette st and garter sts as before AT THE SAME TIME as the last 10 sts on sleeve also are worked in garter sts. When the piece measures 27-29-33 (37-40) cm / 10 5/8''-11 3/8''-13'' (14½''-15¾'') insert 1 marker = middle of shoulder. Now slip the 24-24-26 (28-28) front band sts onto a stitch holder. Next cast on 2 new sts at the end of the row from RS (towards neck), repeat the inc on next row towards neck = 64-69-77 (91-103) sts on needle. Work 1 row from WS. Put work aside.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as left front piece but mirrored. In addition dec for BUTTONHOLES on front band - see above. NOTE! Slip sts onto a thread after the last inc row (i.e. last row = from WS).

BACK PIECE:
Work left front piece onto the circular needle, cast on 16-16-18 (20-20) new sts (= back of neck) and work right front piece onto circular needle = 144-154-172 (202-226) sts.
NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM MARKERS ON SHOULDERS! Continue with stockinette st and garter st at end of each sleeve back and forth on needle.
When piece measures 8½-9½-10 (10-11) cm / 3 1/4"-3 3/4"-4" (4"-4 3/8") beg bind off sleeve sts. Bind off at beg of every row at each side as follows: 21-22-22 (25-26) sts 1 time, 8 sts 1-1-1 (2-3) times and 6 sts 2-2-3 (3-3) times = 62-70-76 (84-90) sts on needle. Work stockinette st with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures approx 26-28-32 (36-39) cm / 10 1/4"-11"-12½" (14 1/4"-15 1/4") – fold piece double at markers on shoulders and see if back piece is the same length as front piece down to garter sts. Change to needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 and work 6 rows garter sts. Bind off.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Slip 24-24-26 (28-28) sts from stitch holder on left front piece back on needle. Work garter sts and continue with shortened rows every 2 cm until collar measures 7-7-8 (9-9) cm / 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8" (3½"-3½") (measured where shortest). Bind off. Repeat with sts on thread on right front piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons. Sew collar tog at back and sew collar to neckline.

CROCHET BORDER:
Crochet an edge along front band, along the edge of collar and down along front band on other side.
Start at bottom of right front piece and crochet with hook size 2 mm / B/1 as follows: crochet 1 sc, * ch 1, skip over approx ½ cm / 1/4'', 1 sc in next sts *, repeat from *-*.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (58)

country flag Flo wrote:

Bonjour Je propose Télio pour le nom du modèle

13.03.2024 - 11:58

country flag Flo wrote:

Bonjour Je propose Télio pour le nom du modèle

13.03.2024 - 11:57

country flag Linda wrote:

Hi I’m currently knitting baby patter pattern FA-031-by (the striped double breasted shawl collar cardigan 0-3 size) I’ve got to the part shortened rows it says, repeat every 4cm until price measures 19cm (for me) then every 2cm to finished measurement? What is that, still 19cm? Next line says when piece measures 16cm cast on new stitches. I’m totally confused, I’m not sure what measurements I’m working to, hope you can help! Linda

25.11.2023 - 13:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Linda, you will work shortened rows up to the end of the front piece. So, until the piece measures 27 cm. So you will repeat every 2cm until the piece measures 27cm. At the same time as you are working the shortened rows, you need to start casting on stitches. Specifically, when the piece measures 16cm. So you will be casting on stitches and working shortened rows simultaneously. Happy knitting!

26.11.2023 - 22:19

country flag Jenni wrote:

Hallo! In der oberen Anleitung steht für die Krausrippe eine andere Nadelstärke als bei der glatt rechten Fläche. Inwieweit lässt sich dieses umsetzen? Bleibt nicht alles auf einer rundnadel?

26.10.2022 - 15:48

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Jenni, die untere Kante wird mit den kleineren Nadeln gestrickt, aber die Blende wird mit der Nadel Nr 3 (wie beim glatt rechts) gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.10.2022 - 17:03

country flag Thea wrote:

Weet iemand antwoord op mijn vraag? Bij het voorpand, als de voorbies op de hulpvraag staat, beginnen met meerderen voor de hals. Er staat tot 64 steken. Zijn dit alleen de steken van het meerderen? Er staan toch veel meer steken op de naald, ook van de mouwen. Ik begrijp niet wat ik moet tellen. Graag hulp!

03.05.2022 - 20:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Thea,

Na het meerderen voor de mouw heb je 84 steken op de naald in totaal. Je zet bij een hoogte van 27 cm de 24 voorbiessteken op een hulpdraad, dus dan heb je nog 60 steken op de naald staan om mee te breien. Je meerdert in totaal 4 steken, dus heb je daarna 64 steken op de naald staan.

10.05.2022 - 09:20

country flag Mindy wrote:

How do I "mirror" the right front? Do I knit backwards, or do I exchange purl for knit stitches (and vice versa)?

26.02.2022 - 01:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mindy, for example, if the first row of the shortened rows is worked on the wrong side in the left front, you need to work the first row on the right side in the right front. When you cast on new stitches for the sleeve, in the left front you cast on at the end of every row on the wrong side, while on the right front you cast on at the end of every row on the right side. Happy knitting!

27.02.2022 - 17:46

country flag Lena wrote:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zum Rückenteil. „Das li Vorderteil auf eine Nadel legen und … M anschlagen“, also nach den 2x2 neuen Maschen am Ende der Seitenteile die neuen M anschlagen? Was bedeutet „Glatt mit den Krausrippen unten an den Ärmeln…“? Ist hiermit das Ende d. Ärmels, also das Bündchen gemeint? Ich kann mir glaube ich das fertige Rückenteil nicht vorstellen. Stricke ich quasi ab der Schultermarkierung „umgeklappt“ einfach das Rückenteil herunter? Vielen Dank!

21.02.2022 - 15:57

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lena, Sie sind gerade beim Rückenteil, richtig? Jezt stricken Sie die Maschen vom linken Vorderteil, schlagen Sie neue Maschen für den Halsausschnitt an (siehe hier und stricken die Maschen vom rechten Vorderteil; jezt stricken Sie das Rückenteil von oben nach unten, mit den 10 krausrechten Maschen beidseitig wie zuvor und glatt rechts inzwischen. Nach 8,5-11 cm beginnen Sie, die Maschen der Ärmel beidseitig abzuketten. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.02.2022 - 09:59

country flag Grace wrote:

Hi, just wondered if you could tell me about leaving a marker in middle of shoulder, where exactly is the middle of the shoulder, could you tell me how many stitches in the marker would be, thanks grace

19.08.2021 - 12:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Grace, the marker should be in the middle of the row, this marker will be used later to measure from, ie this row should be on the top of shoulder, the number of stitches doesn't matter, it just will be used to measure from. Happy knitting!

19.08.2021 - 14:40

country flag Helen McInnes wrote:

I am needing help with the short rows. (i have just started the leftside) Are they worked on the garter stitch section or the bit that is at the side with the stocking stitch? Do I start the short row from the wrong side or the right side?

23.05.2021 - 19:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Helen, the hsort rows are only knitted on the collar stitches knitted with GARTER stitch, They always start from the outside (the front edge), please read the desciption in the pattern as well. Happy Knitting!

24.05.2021 - 03:25

country flag Ulla Lindblad wrote:

Jag antar att ni egentligen menar att man lägger upp 51 maskor och 26 av dem stickas i rätstickning . Dvs 77 maskor totalt. Om man lägger upp 51 + 26 stämmer inte maskantalet när det är dax att lägga arbetet åt sidan och koftan blir väldigt bred.

07.03.2021 - 07:06