The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= off-white | |
= light beige brown |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Oh Deer! |
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Knitted DROPS jacket in ”Karisma” with puff sleeves and reindeer pattern on yoke. Size S to XXXL.
DROPS 122-10 |
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PATTERN: See diagrams M.1 to M.4 – all diagrams worked in stockinette st. GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. BUTTONHOLES: Make buttonholes on front band on right front piece. 1 BUTTONHOLE = K tog third and fourth st from mid front and make 1 YO. Make buttonholes when piece measures: SIZE S: 12, 19, 26, 33, 40 and 47 cm / 4¾",7½",10¼",13",15¾" and 18½". SIZE M: 13, 20, 27, 34, 41 and 48 cm / 5⅛",8",10⅝",13⅜",16⅛" and 19". SIZE L: 14, 21, 28, 35, 42 and 49 cm / 5½",8¼",11",13¾",16½" and 19¼". SIZE XL: 14, 21, 29, 36, 44 and 51 cm / 5½",8¼",11⅜",14¼",17¼" and 20". SIZE XXL: 14, 22, 30, 37, 45 and 52 cm / 5½",8¾",11¾",14½",17¾" and 20½". SIZE XXXL: 14, 22, 30, 38, 46 and 54 cm / 5½",8¾",11¾",15",18" and 21¼". The last buttonhole is made on neckline. DECREASING TIP (applies to body piece): Make all dec from RS. Dec at the beg and at the end of all garter st sections alternately by K2 tog (i.e. for first dec K tog the first 2 sts and for second dec K tog the last 2 sts, etc). -------------------------------------------------------- BACK PIECE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 109-119-129-139-149-159 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4 mm / US 6 with light beige brown. K 1 row from WS and work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in GARTER ST – see above, K 17-19-21-23-25-27, * 10 garter sts, K 11-13-15-17-19-21 *, repeat from *-* until 7 sts remain, K6 and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue with K over K and garter st over garter st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 5 cm / 2" dec 1 st in each of the 4 garter st-sections (from RS) – SEE DECREASING TIP - repeat the dec on every 8th row a total of 8 times = 77-87-97-107-117-127 sts. There are now 2 sts left in all garter st-sections. Continue until piece measures 28 cm / 11" for all sizes. Change to needle size 3.5 mm / US 4, work 4 cm / 1½" garter st on all sts. Change to needle size 4 mm / US 6 and off-white. Work 6-6-8-8-10-10 rows stockinette st – AT THE SAME TIME on row 1 inc 12 sts evenly (inc by making a YO and work YO into back of loop on next row to avoid a hole) = 89-99-109-119-129-139 sts. Continue with M.1 – make sure to have st marked with arrow mid back. After M.1 continue in M.2 on the middle 57 sts (work remaining sts in off-white stockinette st). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 41-42-43-44-45-46 cm / 16⅛"-16½"-17"-17¼"-17¾"-18" bind off for armhole at the beg of every row each side: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 0-1-2-2-3-4 times, 2 sts 2-2-3-4-4-5 times and 1 st 3-4-3-4-5-4 times = 67-69-71-75-77-79 sts left on needle. After M.2 complete piece in off-white stockinette st. When piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾" bind off the middle 27-27-27-29-29-29 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Bind off 2 sts on neckline on next row = 18-19-20-21-22-23 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½". LEFT FRONT PIECE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 61-66-71-76-81-86 sts (includes 6 front band sts towards front edge and 1 edge st at the side) on needle size 4 mm / US 6 with light beige brown. K 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows (from RS): 1 edge st in garter st, K 17-19-21-23-25-27, 10 garter sts, K 11-13-15-17-19-21, 10 garter sts, K 6-7-8-9-10-11 and 6 front band sts in garter st. Continue with K over K, garter st over garter st and front band and edge st in garter st. When piece measures 5 cm / 2" dec 1 st in each of the 2 garter st-sections (from RS) – SEE DECREASING TIP – repeat the dec on every 8th row a total of 8 times = 45-50-55-60-65-70 sts. When piece measures 28 cm / 11" change to needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work 4 cm / 1½" garter st on all sts. Now slip the 6 front band sts on a stitch holder = 39-44-49-54-59-64 sts on needle. Change to off-white and needle size 4 mm / US 6, work 6 rows stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME on first row cast on 1 new st towards front edge and inc 6 sts evenly = 46-51-56-61-66-71 sts. READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! PATTERN: After 6-6-8-8-10-10 rows continue in M.1 – adjust so that pattern fits pattern on back piece at the side. After M.1 continue as follows (from RS): 16-21-26-31-36-41 sts off-white, M.3 (= 28 sts) and 2 sts off-white. After M.3 complete piece in off-white stockinette st on all sts. ARMHOLE: When piece measures 41-42-43-44-45-46 cm / 16⅛"-16½"-17"-17¼"-17¾"-18" bind off for armhole at the side as described for back piece = 35-36-37-39-40-41 sts. NECKLINE: When piece measures 53-55-56-58-59-61 cm / 21"-21⅝"-22"-22¾"-23¼"-24" slip 7-7-7-8-8-8 sts towards front edge on a stitch holder for neck and bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 3 times = 18-19-20-21-22-23 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½". FRONT BAND: Slip the 6 sts on stitch holder back on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work garter st back and forth on needle with light beige brown until front band measures nearly the same as front piece up to neckline – slip sts back on stitch holder. Sew front band to front piece – stretch front band slightly. RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Cast on and work like left front piece but mirrored. Instead of M.3 work M.4 on yoke. When piece measures 12-13-14-14-14-14 cm / 4¾"-5⅛"-5½"-5½"-5½"-5½" make BUTTONHOLES – see above! SLEEVE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 56-58-60-64-66-68 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with light beige brown. Work garter st. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½" dec 6 sts evenly, and repeat the dec when piece measures 9 cm / 3½" = 44-46-48-52-54-56 sts. When piece measures 10 cm / 4" change to needle size 4 mm / US 6 and complete piece in stockinette st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12-14-12-12-14-14 cm / 4¾"-5½"-4¾"-4¾"-5½"-5½" inc 1 st each side. Repeat the inc on every 2.5-2-2-2-1.5-1.5 cm / ⅞"-¾"-¾"-¾"-½"-½" a total of 15-16-17-17-18-19 times = 74-78-82-86-90-94 sts. When piece measures 49-48-47-46-45-44 cm / 19¼"-19"-18½"-18"-17¾"-17¼" (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) bind off for sleeve cap at the beg of every row each side: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times. Continue until piece measures 57 cm / 22½", now bind off 2 sts 2 times each side = 52-56-60-64-68-72 sts. On next row K3 tog on the middle 42-42-48-48-54-54 sts (for puff at top of sleeve) = 24-28-28-32-32-36 sts. Bind off remaining sts. Sleeve measures approx 59 cm / 23¼" for all sizes. ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams. NECKLINE: Pick up approx 80 to 100 sts (includes sts on stitch holders) on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with light beige brown. K 5 rows back and forth on needle, AT THE SAME TIME on row 2 make 1 buttonhole in line with the others on front band. After 5 rows bind off with K sts from RS. Set in sleeves, sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Comments / Questions (46)
Uli wrote:
Hi wie kann man die Jacke auch noch größer stricken? Schönen Tag Uli
09.11.2023 - 12:24DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Ulli, leider können wir nicht unsere Anleitungen nach jeder Anfrage umrechnen, vielleicht kann Ihen aber damit Ihr Wollladen - auch per Telefon oder per E-Mail weiterhelfen? Danke im voraus für Ihr Verständnis.
09.11.2023 - 15:58Melanie wrote:
Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zu den Abnahmen für das Armloch. Werden die Abnahmen in jeder Reihe oder in jeder zweiten Reihe gemacht?
16.07.2021 - 22:38DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Melanie, die Maschen für die Armlöcher werden beim Rückenteil beidseitig abgkettet, dh am Anfang jeder Reihe (Hin- sowie Rückreihe), z.B. 4 M am Anfang jeder 2 nächsten Reihe, dann 3 Maschen am Anfang jeder von den 0 bis 8 (siehe Grösse) nächsten Reihen (= 0 bis 4 Mal beidseitig), dann 2 Maschen am Anfang jeder 4 bis 10 näcshten Reihen (= 2 bis 5 M beidseitig) usw. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
19.07.2021 - 08:13Els wrote:
In het patroon staat bij achterkant: Als ik de 2e naald brei: 1 st in ribbel (is recht), 21 steken recht, 10 st ribbel (is recht), 15 st. recht, dan heb ik een hele pen recht. Aan het eind staat er 7 steken over waarvan 6 recht en 1 ribbel (is recht) dus dan geen 21 steken ? dan wordt het rechts en links vh achter pand niet gelijk. Als ik naar het plaatje kijk, is re en li dat wel. graag uw visie hierop. Alvast dank !! hartelijke groet, Els
09.03.2021 - 13:38DROPS Design answered:
Dag Els,
In de praktijk komt het er op neer dat je deze naald aan de goede kant helemaal recht breit, maar op de verkeerde kant worden de ribbelsteken in recht gebreid en waar je op de goede kant recht hebt gebreid, brei je op de verkeerde kant averecht (zodat er tricotsteek ontstaat.
18.03.2021 - 10:51Anne M wrote:
Hei. Det er meg igjen. :-) Jeg har nå strikket opp til der hvor rillen består av to masker. Jeg synes den blir litt \"buklete\", men det ser litt sånn ut på bildet også, men ikke så galt som min. Jeg sliter også med strikkefastheten. For å få den til stemme, må jeg strikke veldig fast. Ville foretrukket å strikke løsere og burde kanskje egentlig brukt pinnestørrelse 3,5. Jeg vurderer å rekke opp det hele og starte på nytt. Men kanskje det vil rette seg bare med litt damping?
21.09.2019 - 20:21Anne M wrote:
Hei, Jeg synes oppskriften er litt merkelig forklart. Jeg har nettopp startet på bakstykket. Rett over rett må vel bety at det strikkes vrangt annenhver pinne, dvs glattstrikk. Siden RILLE strikkes rett begge veier, er denne like mye rett over rett som glattstrikkpartiet, hvis jeg ikke har misforstått dette. Jeg vil gjerne ha en tilbakemelding på om jeg har misforstått.
15.09.2019 - 21:03DROPS Design answered:
Hei Anne. Ja, det skal strikkes slik at det blir glattstrikk mellom rillestrikk feltene, se bildet. Oppskriften vil få en bedre formulering. Takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på dette. God Fornøyelse!
16.09.2019 - 09:24Tonjr wrote:
Hei. Jeg fikk det til. Har tenkt feil. Jeg tenkte 119 + 2 masker.
25.01.2019 - 16:40Tonje wrote:
Hei. Jeg får ikke maskene til å gå opp i opp. Jeg strikker med 121 masker og skal da til slutt ha 7 masker igjen, men sitter igjen med 9. Gjør jeg feil eller?
21.01.2019 - 17:55DROPS Design answered:
Hei Tonje. Hvor er det du har 121 masker? Kan ikke finne noe sted i oppskriften du skal ha det, så klarer ikke skjønne helt hvor du er. Og hvilken størrelse strikker du? hilsen Drops
24.01.2019 - 15:18Catriona Hansen wrote:
Hei. Det står i oppskriften pinne nr 3,5 til riller. Vi det si at man legger opp antall masker, på pinne nr 4 og strikker rillene med en annen pinne str 3,5? Jeg er ganske fersk på dette:)
06.04.2018 - 14:52DROPS Design answered:
Hei Catriona, Man ofte legger opp masker med en pinne størrelse større slik at oppleggskanten ikke er stram. Deretter går man ned en størrelse for å strikke videre. God fornøyelse!
09.04.2018 - 08:23Helene Grønli wrote:
Kan man strikke denne på rundpinne?
11.11.2017 - 22:55DROPS Design answered:
Hej Helene, ja det kan du godt, men vi kan desværre ikke hjælpe dig med at skrive opskriften om. God fornøjelse!
13.11.2017 - 14:32Pernille øemig Nielsen wrote:
I opskriften står der at man skal tage ind i ret partierne, men på ryggen står der i vr partierne. I indtagning tips står der også på ret partierne. Så hvad skal jeg gøre?
05.11.2016 - 17:54DROPS Design answered:
Hej Pernille. Det er en lille skrivefejl i den danske opskrift. Det skal naturligvis vaere i retpartiet. Vi retter. Tak!
07.11.2016 - 12:31