DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
DROPS 122-14
DROPS design: Pattern no FA-129
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Size: One-size

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g color no 100, off-white
And use: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
50 g color no 0618m eco light beige

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm /US 1.5 – or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagram M.4 and M.5 – diagrams worked in stockinette st.

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LEFT GLOVE:
Worked in the round.
Cast on 56 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Alpaca. K 1 round and continue in rib, K2/P2. When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾" change to Fabel. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
K 1 round, at the same time dec 5 sts evenly = 51 sts. Continue with M.4 – when you reach the black square in diagram beg to inc for thumb each side of this st – inc by making 1 YO, on next round K YO into back of loop, repeat the inc on every 3rd round (there should be 2 more sts between YO for each inc) a total of 6 times – work all inc sts in off-white = 63 sts. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 7 cm / 2¾" slip the 13 thumb sts on a stitch holder. On next round cast on 1 new st behind thumb sts = 51 sts. Continue until M.4 is completed – piece now measures approx 10 cm / 4".
Slip the first 20 sts on a stitch holder (= upper hand), keep the next 12 sts on needle and slip the last 19 sts on a stitch holder (= palm of hand).

LITTLE FINGER:
= 12 sts, cast on 2 new sts towards hand = 14 sts. Work stockinette st in the round with off-white for 6 cm / 2⅜", then K2 tog across the round. Cut the thread and pull it through remaining 7 sts, tighten tog.

HAND:
Slip sts from stitch holders back on needle, pick up 3 sts towards little finger = 42 sts. Work 2 rounds stockinette st with off-white. Now keep the 3 sts pick up towards little finger + 6 sts from upper hand and 6 sts from palm of hand on needle. Slip remaining 27 sts back on stitch holders.

RING FINGER;
= 15 sts, cast on 1 new st towards sts on stitch holders = 16 sts. Work stockinette st in the round with off-white for 7.5 cm / 2⅞", then K2 tog across the round. Cut the thread and pull it through remaining 8 sts, tighten tog.

MIDDLE FINGER:
Slip 6 sts from stitch holder on upper hand and 6 sts from stitch holder on palm of hand back on needle, pick up 3 sts towards ring finger and cast on 1 new st towards sts on stitch holders = 16 sts. Work stockinette st in the round with off-white for 8 cm / 3⅛", then K2 tog across the round. Cut the thread and pull it through remaining 8 sts, tighten tog.

INDEX FINGER:
Slip the remaining 15 sts from stitch holders back on needle, pick up 3 sts towards middle finger = 18 sts. Work stockinette st in the round with off-white for 7 cm / 2¾", then K2 tog across the round. Cut the thread and pull it through remaining 9 sts, tighten tog.

THUMB:
Slip the 13 sts from stitch holder over thumb gusset on needle and pick up 5 sts in the edge behind thumb sts = 18 sts. Work stockinette st in the round with off-white for 6 cm / 2⅜", then K2 tog across the round. Cut the thread and pull it through remaining 9 sts, tighten tog.

RIGHT GLOVE:
Like left glove, but mirrored – work M.5 instead of M.4.


HAT: See pattern 122-15

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 14.12.2010
K 1 round, at the same time dec 5 sts evenly = 51 sts.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = off-white
symbols = light beige mix
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = thumb sts (off-white)
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Margriet wrote:

Is het mogelijk om deze handschoenen met magic loop te breien?

28.10.2023 - 11:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Margriet,

Jazeker, dat kan altijd. Kijk even wat het handigst voor je is; met magic loop en rondbreinaald of met sokkenbreinaalden.

30.10.2023 - 20:45

country flag Ane Mare wrote:

Hei. Skal man strikke med 4 pinner eller rundpinne?

14.08.2023 - 20:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ane Mare, Du strikke med 5 strømpepinner, med maskene fordelt på 4 pinner og strikker med den 5. God fornøyelse!

15.08.2023 - 06:46

country flag Lilisn wrote:

Would love to make these gloves ,have never made these kind with fingers could be challenging have avoided them all this time.

05.12.2022 - 06:14

country flag Coraline wrote:

Bonjour , à cette étape :À 7 cm de hauteur totale, glisser en attente sur un arrêt de mailles les 13 m du pouce. Mon début de rang est au milieu de ces 13 mailles comment est ce que je peux les mettre en attente sans tricoter plus d’un côté ? ? Je coupe le fil et je reprend le rang à neuf directement en montant une maille et je fais les 51 mailles de la main? Merci beaucoup

24.04.2020 - 15:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Coraline, vous glissez les 13 premières mailles du tour (= les 6 augmentations, la 1ère m du tour (= le carré noir) et les 6 augmentations) en attente sur un fil, vous montez 1 maille sur votre aiguille droite (= c'est la 1ère maille du tour désormais et continuez en rond. Cette vidéo montre comment procéder pour tricoter le pouce d'une moufle (= gant, mitaine, etc.). Bon tricot!

24.04.2020 - 15:44

country flag Maryann Stearns wrote:

Thank you so much for this lovely pattern! I enjoyed making these gloves and the pattern was very well written and concise. I noticed a small error that I thought you'd like to know about; this should be changed to::: RIGHT GLOVE: Like left glove, but mirrored - work M.5 instead of M.4. Thanks again!! You're hard work is much appreciated.

17.03.2013 - 18:28

country flag DROPS wrote:

Da er det rettet på.

14.12.2010 - 09:31

country flag Line wrote:

Liten feil i oppskriften :)står at man skal legge opp 56 masker, så strikke i 12 cm, så står det at man skal ta av sju masker,så blir det igjen 51 masker.. men tar du av sju masker blir det 49 masker igjen :) men så det skal stå at man skal ta av 5 masker :)

12.12.2010 - 18:40