DROPS / 125 / 1

I Love Lucy by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS dress in ”Delight”, ”Kid-Silk” and ”Cotton Viscose” with a heart on the yoke. Size XS to XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no DE-030
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Size: XS/S - S/M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 82-90-98-108-118-130 cm / 32 1/4"-35½"-38½"-42½"-46½"-51"
Full length: 98-100-102-104-106-108 cm / 38½"-39 3/8"-40"-41"-41 3/4"-42½"

Materials: DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
300-300-350-350-400-450 g color no 01, gray mix
And use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
100-100-100-125-125-125 g color no 02, black
50-50-50-50-50-75 g color no 10, gray
And use: DROPS COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
100-100-100-150-150-150 g color no 18, pearl gray
50-50-50-100-100-100 g color no 19, dark gray

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') size 4.5 mm/US 7 - or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand Delight + 1 strand Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 4 mm /US 6 - for garter st.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') size 3 mm/ 2or3 - for rib and cables with 1 strand Delight or Cotton Viscose.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Cotton Viscose DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round

DECREASING TIP (applies to body piece):
Dec each side of the 4 markers as follows: Work row until 2 sts before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, (marker) K2 tog.

INCREASING TIP (applies to sleeves):
Inc 1 st each side of the 2 K sts mid under sleeve by making 1 YO, on next round work YO into back of loop to avoid a hole. Incorporate the inc sts in K2/P2 as you go along.
After 1 inc: K4 mid under sleeve.
After 2 inc: K6 mid under sleeve.
After 3 inc: K2, P1, K2, P1, K2.
After 4 inc: K2, P2, K2, P2, K2.
Repeat the 4 inc a total of 3 times.
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BODY PIECE:
Worked in the round.
Cast on 240-252-266-284-306-328 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with 1 strand Delight + 1 strand black Kid-Silk. Work 6 rounds GARTER ST – see above! Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and continue in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 20 cm / 8'' insert 4 markers in piece as follows (round beg at the side): Work 30-32-34-36-38-40 sts, insert a marker, work 60-62-65-70-77-84 sts, insert a marker, work 60-64-68-72-76-80 sts, insert a marker, work 60-62-65-70-77-84 sts, insert a marker and work round to end (= 30-32-34-36-38-40 sts). On next round dec 1 st each side of all markers – SEE DECREASING TIP. Repeat the dec on every 7th round a total of 14 times = 128-140-154-172-194-216 sts. Remove markers. Continue until piece measures 62 cm / 24 3/4'' for all sizes.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 and 1 strand dark gray Cotton Viscose. K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME inc 40-46-50-56-64-72 sts evenly (inc by working 2 sts in 1 st) = 168-186-204-228-258-288 sts. P 1 round and K 1 round and work next round as follows: * P2, K2 in each of the next 2 sts, P2 *, repeat from *-* to end of round = 224-248-272-304-344-384 sts. Now work 1 vertical repeat of M.1 as follows: M.1A on the first 4 sts, then M.1B until 4 sts remain, work these in M.1C. After M.1 work next round as follows: * K2 tog, K4, K2 tog *, repeat from *-* = 168-186-204-228-258-288 sts. P 1 round. Piece now measures approx 68 cm / 26 3/4''. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and 1 strand pearl gray Cotton Viscose + 1 strand gray Kid-Silk. K 1 round, at the same time dec 38-40-42-50-60-70 sts evenly = 130-146-162-178-198-218 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Insert a marker at beg of round and one after 65-73-81-89-99-109 sts (to mark the sides).
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue in stockinette st – AT THE SAME TIME after 2 cm / 3/4'' inc 1 st each side of markers at the sides, repeat the inc on every 6-6-7-7-8-8 round a total of 4 times - AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3-4-4-5-5-6 cm / 1 1/8"-1½"-1½"-2"-2"-2 3/8" work M.2 on front piece – count out in order to have the st marked with an arrow in diagram mid front.
ARMHOLE: At the same time when piece measures 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm / 4¾''-5 1/8''-5½''-6''-6¼''-6¾'' bind off 8 sts each side for armhole (i.e. 4 sts each side of marker) and complete front and back piece separately.

FRONT PIECE:
= 65-73-81-89-99-109 sts. Continue in stockinette st and M.2 on the middle sts – AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole at the beg of every row each side: 3 sts 0-0-1-1-2-3 times, 2 sts 1-2-2-3-3-3 times and 1 st 2-3-3-4-4-4 times = 57-59-61-63-67-71 sts. After M.2 continue in stockinette st on all sts. When piece measures 21-23-24-26-27-28 cm / 8 1/4"-9"-9½"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11" slip the middle 15-15-17-17-19-19 sts on a stitch holder for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 14-15-15-16-17-19 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 30-32-34-36-38-40 cm / 11¾''-12½''-13 3/8''-14¼''-15''-15¾ (dress measures now a total of approx 98-100-102-104-106-108 cm / 38½"-39 3/8"-40"-41"-41 3/4"-42½").

BACK PIECE:
= 65-73-81-89-99-109 sts. Continue in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole each side as described for front piece = 57-59-61-63-67-71 sts. When piece measures 28-30-32-34-36-38 cm / 11''-11¾''-12½''-13 3/8''-14¼''-15'' bind off the middle 25-25-27-27-29-29 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Bind off 2 sts on neckline on next row = 14-15-15-16-17-19 sts left on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 30-32-34-36-38-40 cm / 11¾''-12½''-13 3/8''-14¼''-15''-15¾ – adjust to front piece.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round.
Cast on 56-60-64-68-72-76 sts with 1 strand Delight on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3. K 2 rounds and continue in rib, K2/P2. Insert a marker between the first 2 K sts (= mid under sleeve). When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'' inc 1 st each side of the 2 K sts mid under sleeve – SEE INCREASING TIP! Repeat the inc on every 9-9-8-8-8-7 round a total of 12 times = 80-84-88-92-96-100 sts. When piece measures 46-45-44-43-42-41 cm / 18"-17 3/4"-17 1/4"-17"-16½"-16 1/8" (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) change to small circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and 1 strand gray Kid-Silk.
Work next round as follows: * K4, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* = 100-105-110-115-120-125 sts.
Continue in stockinette and on first round K all YO into back of loop to avoid holes. After 3 cm / 1 1/8'' with Kid-Silk bind off 8 sts mid under sleeve and complete piece back and forth on needle. Bind off for sleeve cap at the beg of every row each side: 2 sts 1 time each side and then 1 st each side until the part in Kid-Silk measures 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm / 4¾''-5 1/8''-5½''-6''-6¼''-6¾'', now bind off 2 sts 1 time each side and then 3 sts 1 time each side.
On next row K3 tog on the middle 42-39-42-39-42-45 sts (= puff at the top of sleeve), then bind off remaining sts.
Sleeve now measures approx 60 cm / 23 5/8" for all sizes.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams.
NECK: Pick up approx 80 to 90 sts (includes sts on stitch holder at front) round the neck on small circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 1 strand Delight + 1 strand gray Kid-Silk. P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round and then bind off with K sts.
Set in sleeves.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K
= P
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, P2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P2, K2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
= K2 tog, 1 YO
= 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 125-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (124)

Frøydis 30.03.2020 - 16:34:

Hei Jeg ser at garnet "Cotton Viscose" er utgått. Jeg tenkte å erstatte det med "Nord", som står på listen over alternativer. Men dette er ull, og jeg antar det oppfører seg annerledes? Har ikke så himla mye strikke-erfaring... Er det et ok bytte?

DROPS Design 31.03.2020 kl. 08:24:

Hej Det går helt fint att byta ut Cotton Viscose mot DROPS Nord, tänk bara på att få beräkna riktigt garnforbruk. Du kan använda vårgarnkalkulator för att göra det. Lycka till!

Nina 08.09.2018 - 23:07:

Hei, jeg forstår ikke hvordan man skal lese mønster M1. Leses det baklengs siden det står at man skal strikke A-B-C, og mønsteret som står printet er C-B-A?

DROPS Design 10.09.2018 kl. 11:24:

Hei Nina. Strikkediagrammer vises alltid fra rettsiden og de leses alltid fra høyre mot venstre, fra nederst til øverst. Du begynner derfor nederst i høyre hjørne (A) og jobber deg mot venstre, rad for rad oppover. Når du strikker frem og tilbake må du strikke diagrammet motsatt vei når du strikker fra vrangsiden (altså strikke fra venstre mot høyre, rett isteden for vrang, og vrang isteden for rett). Du kan lese mer om hvordan å lese strikkediagrammer her. God fornøyelse

Jane Bernth 03.03.2018 - 16:46:

Vil gerne strikke kjolen i Drops Delight, som opskriften henviser til, men opskriften oplyser pinde 4 og 4½. På garnsiden er pindene str 3 ?

DROPS Design 07.03.2018 kl. 08:26:

Hei Janne. Pinne størrelse er kun veiledende. Du må bruke den pinne størrelsen som gir deg den strikkefastheten som er oppgitt i oppskriften. I denne oppskriften strikkes det også med 2 tråder, mens det på garnsiden til Delight/og på banderolen oppgir vi kun strikkefasthete med 1 tråd. God Fornøyelse!

Lin Janson 16.06.2016 - 15:07:

Jeg vill gjerne strikke genseren så den passer størrelsen uk 16, men blir litt forvirret når jeg ser at brystbredden bare går til litt over 60cm. Trenger jeg L, XL eller XXL?

DROPS Design 16.06.2016 kl. 15:28:

Hej Lin. Pröv at les dette vedrörende valg af störrelse og se om det ikke hjaelper dig videre. God fornöjelse!

Marianne Skoge 25.01.2016 - 22:43:

Skjønner ikke mønster M1 A,B,C. Er det mulig å forklare det? Har strikket mye kunst strikk, men nå sitter jeg fast.... Glad for svar :)

DROPS Design 26.01.2016 kl. 08:11:

Hej. Vad är det du inte förstår med mönster M1?

Elisabet 11.01.2016 - 18:58:

Er det feil i oppskriften? Etter at jeg skiftet garn til cotton viscose og skal øke sitter jeg igjen med 278 m i str s/m når det i oppskriften står at jeg skal ha 248 m. Har 186 m før jeg begynner økningen, men ender opp med 278 m hver gang jeg prøver. Hjelp! Mvh Elisabet

DROPS Design 12.01.2016 kl. 12:06:

Hej. Du stickar 2 vr, i de nästa 2 m ökar du 2 m genom att sticka 2 räta i varje maska, 2 vr (6 maskor har nu alltså blivit 8). Detta upprepas varvet ut. Lycka till!

Rita Ellingsen 30.04.2015 - 14:23:

Hei! Strikker denne kjolen i str S, og på bakstykket så stemmer ikke fellingene i mønsteret med maskeantallet, Hva skal det egentlig stå der? Hilsen Rita Ellingsen

DROPS Design 30.04.2015 kl. 15:10:

Hej Rita. Strikker du XS/S eller S/M? Og hvor i mönstret er du praecis. Jeg har regnet BAKSTK-delen efter (lukke af for ermegab og halsen) og her stemmer maskeantallet for begge S-störrelser, men er det andetsteds i mönstret, saa forklar lige naermere :-)

Martin 25.12.2014 - 22:57:

Très joli modèle, assez facile à réaliser. J'ai du faire quelques modifications, plus particulièrement quant aux numéros d'aiguilles, changé les coloris: camaïeux de brun/beige, le résultat est magnifique! Beaucoup de compliments

Anne G Bakkevold 03.09.2014 - 08:58:

Jeg skal bestille garn til denne, men vil ha den i gråtåner. Noen som har strikket den i gråtoner og har forslag til garn.

Ebrul 13.02.2014 - 12:31:

İch habe ein problem mit der maschenzahl,wenn ich bei grösse xxl 288 maschen auf der nadel habe und 2 maschen links, dann aus den nachsten 2 maschen 2 herausstricke (also 4 m insg.) komme ich nicht auf 384 maschen, sondern auf 432 maschen??? für ihre hilfe ware ich sehr dankbar :)

DROPS Design 13.02.2014 kl. 18:26:

Liebe Ebrul, Sie haben in dem Rapport übersehen, dass nochmals 2 li ohne Aufnahme gestrickt werden. Aus 6 M werden 8 M, aus 288 M werden 384 M.

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