DROPS / 117 / 18

Alaska Cables by DROPS Design

DROPS tunic in ”Eskimo” with cable pattern mid front. Size S to XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no EE-280


Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 86-96-108-118-130-140 cm / 33 7/8"-37 3/4"-42½"-46½"-51"-55"
Full length: 82-83-84-85-86-87 cm / 32¼-32 3/4''-33''-33½''-33 7/8''-34¼''

Materials: DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
850-950-1050-1150-1250-1350 g color no 41m, violet mix.

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 8 mm / US 11 – or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') size 7 mm/US 10½ – for rib.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
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DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 3.30 $ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 3.60 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.45$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN: See diagram M.1, M.2 and M.3 – diagrams are seen from RS. In M.2 no of sts varies from 17 to 27 sts.
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FRONT PIECE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 61-69-75-83-89-97 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 7 mm / US 10 ½ with Eskimo.
Continue as follows (row 1 = RS):
SIZE S + L + XXL: 1 edge st in GARTER ST – see above, * K3, P4 * repeat from *-*, finish with K3 and 1 edge st in garter st.
SIZE M + XL + XXXL: 1 edge st in GARTER ST – see above, * P4, K3 * repeat from *-*, finish with P4 and 1 edge st in garter st.
When piece measures 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm / 1½''-1½''-1½''-2''-2''-2'' dec all P4 to P3 (as seen from RS) = 53-59-65-71-77-83 sts. Continue with K over K and P over P. When piece measures approx 8-8-9-10-10-11 cm / 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3½"-4"-4"-4 3/8" (adjust so that next row is from RS) change to needle size 8 mm / US 11. Work next row as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, K 9-12-15-18-21-24, 1 garter st, P2, K2 in each of the next 3 sts (ie K3 becomes K6), P3, K3, P9, K3, P3, K2 in each of the next 3 (ie K3 becomes K6), P2, 1 garter st, K 9-12-15-18-21-24 and 1 edge st in garter st = 6 sts inc on row = 59-65-71-77-83-89 sts in total. Work return row with K over K and P over P. Work next row as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, 9-12-15-18-21-24 stockinette sts, 1 garter st, P2, M.1 (= 6 sts), M.2a (= 21 sts), M.3 (= 6 sts), P2, 1 garter st, 9-12-15-18-21-24 stockinette sts and 1 edge st in garter st. After M.2a continue in M.2b (work 4 vertical repeat of M.2b). REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 25 cm / 9 3/4'' dec 1 st each side on next row from RS by K2 tog inside edge st each side, and repeat the dec when piece measures 30 and 35 cm / 11 3/4" and 13 3/4". When piece measures 45 cm / 17 3/4'' inc 1 st each side by K 2 sts in st inside edge st each side, and repeat the inc when piece measures 50 and 55 cm / 19 3/4" and 21 5/8". When piece measures 62 cm / 24 3/8'' (for all sizes) bind off for armhole each side at the beg of every row: 3 sts 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, 2 sts 0-1-2-2-2-3 times and 1 st 2-2-2-4-3-3 times. After 4 vertical repeats of M.2b piece measures approx 72 cm / 28 3/8''. Now work 1 vertical repeat of M.2c over M.2b. After M.2c there are 49-51-53-55-57-59 sts on needle. Now slip the middle 17-17-19-19-21-21 sts on a stitch holder for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Continue in pattern as before. Bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front by K tog the first 3 sts a total of 3 times = 10-11-11-12-12-13 sts left on shoulder. Bind off remaining sts when piece measures approx 82-83-84-85-86-87 cm / 32¼-32 3/4''-33''-33½''-33 7/8''-34¼''.

BACK PIECE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 62-68-76-82-90-96 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 7 mm / US 10 ½ with Eskimo.
Continue as follows (row 1 = RS):
SIZE S + L + XXL: 1 edge st in garter st, * P4, K3 * repeat from *-*, finish with P4 and 1 edge st in garter st.
SIZE M + XL + XXXL: 1 edge st in garter st, * K3, P4 * repeat from *-*, finish with K3 and 1 edge st in garter st.
When piece measures 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm / 1½''-1½''-1½''-2''-2''-2'' dec all P4 to P3 (as seen from RS) = 53-59-65-71-77-83 sts. Continue with K over K and P over P. When piece measures approx 8-8-9-10-10-11 cm / 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3½"-4"-4"-4 3/8" (adjust to front piece) change to needle size 8 mm / US 11. Continue in stockinette st – AT THE SAME TIME on row 1 dec 4 sts evenly = 49-55-61-67-73-79 sts. When piece measures 25, 30 and 35 cm / 9 3/4", 11 3/4" and 13 3/4" dec 1 st each side as described for front piece = 43-49-55-61-67-73 sts. When piece measures 45, 50 and 55 cm / 17 3/4", 19 3/4" and 21 5/8" inc 1 st each side as described for front piece = 49-55-61-67-73-79 sts. When piece measures 62 cm / 24 3/8'' bind off for armhole each side as described for front piece = 39-41-43-45-47-49 sts. When piece measures approx 79-80-81-82-83-84 cm / 31"-31½"-32"-32¼-32 3/4''-33'' (adjust to 3 cm / 1 1/8'' before finished measurements on front piece) bind off the middle 17-17-19-19-21-21 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. bind off 1 st on neckline on next row = 10-11-11-12-12-13 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures the same as front piece.

SLEEVE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 32-32-38-38-38-38 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 7 mm / US 10 ½ with Eskimo. Work rib, K3/P3, with 1 edge st each side in garter st. When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'' change to needle size 8 mm / US 11 and continue in stockinette st – AT THE SAME TIME on row 1 dec 2-0-4-2-0-0 sts evenly = 30-32-34-36-38-38 sts. When piece measures 14 cm / 5½'' inc 1 st each side, and repeat the inc on every 6-6-5.5-5.5-5-4 cm / 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-2 1/4"-2 1/4"-2"-1½" a total of 6-6-6-6-6-7 times = 42-44-46-48-50-52 sts. When piece measures 47-46-45-44-43-42 cm / 18½''-18''-17¾''-17¼''-17''-16½'' (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) bind off for sleeve cap each at the beg of every row: 4 sts 1 time and 2 sts 1 time, then 1 st each side until piece measures 54 cm / 21 1/4", now bind off 4 sts each side 1 time and bind off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 56 cm / 22''.

ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams.

NECK: Pick up 60 to 72 sts round neckline (divisible by 6, incl sts on stitch holder at front) on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10½. Work rib = K3/P3 – make sure to place K sts over K sts in M.2 mid front. When neck measures 10 cm / 4'' inc all K3 to K4 = 70 to 84 sts. Continue with K4/P3 until neck measures 20 cm / 8''. Now inc all K4 to K5 = 80-96 sts. Continue with K5/P3 until neck measures 25 cm / 9 3/4''. Bind off loosely with K over K and P over P.

FURTHER ASSEMBLY: Set in sleeves, sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 26.11.2009
New chart M.2b has been published.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K3, P1 from cable needle.
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P1, K3 from cable needle.
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle.
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle.
= slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K3 tog, P1 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P1, K3 tog from cable needle.
= BOBLE: Work 3 sts in the same st as follows from RS: K1, 1 YO, K1. Work 3 rows stockinette st back and forth on these 3 sts. On next row slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso.
= slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, in next st inc to 3 sts as follows: K1, 1 YO, K1, now P1 from cable needle.
= slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, P1, in st on cable needle inc to 3 sts as follows: K1, 1 YO, K1.
= 1 YO between 2 sts.
= K2 tog
= K2 tog into back of loop
= slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 117-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (59)

Paula 08.12.2018 - 16:13:

Na construção da gola é referido que as malhas que ficaram em espera (19 m) se tricotam conforme se apresentam. A questão é durante quantas voltas? Quando é que se começa a fazer o canelado nessas malhas? Obrigada.

DROPS Design 10.12.2018 kl. 13:40:

Bom dia, O canelado começa a tricotar-se no princípio, depois de levantar as malhas. A gola tricota-se até ter 25 cm de altura. O número de voltas igual a 25 cm depende da sua tensão. Aconselhamos a que vá medindo a gola à medida que a for tricotando até ter 25 cm. Bom tricô!

Paula SIlva 13.11.2018 - 09:38:

As minhas dúvidas prendem-se com os símbolos nas linhas 9 (M2a), 13 (M2b) e 23 (M2b), pois quanto me apercebo, estes pontos são de diminuição pelo que me como é que é feita a compensação? O desenho não vai deixar de ficar direito? Obrigada

DROPS Design 15.11.2018 kl. 11:16:

Bom dia, O desenho vai ficar direito porque os símbolos referidos não são de diminuição. O que se faz é criar um torcido mas não se diminui qualquer malha. Esperemos que consiga acabar esta lindíssima camisola! Bom tricô!

Maria Danielsson 08.06.2018 - 16:11:

Hej! Är det någon som vet hur många färre maskor man behöver lägga upp om man stickar det här mönstret i slätstickning (istället för flätor)?

Christine 11.01.2017 - 20:06:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, ich hänge gerade an der Anleitung bei 45cm. :( Ich nehme bei 25, 30 und 35 jeweils aus dem glatten Teil eine Masche ab. Habe also im glatten Teil dann rechts und links jeweils nur noch 12 re M, richtig? Bei 45cm soll ich nun 2M in 2M re stricken. Dass heißt nach 45cm habe ich dann je 14M, 50cm 16M und 55cm dann 18M? Oder verstehe ich das falsch? Ich musste leider den Pulli leider schon 2mal neu Anfangen. danke für Eure Hilfe! Liebe grüße, Christine

DROPS Design 12.01.2017 kl. 08:21:

Liebe Christine, Sie nehmen zuerst 3 x 2 M beidseitig ab und dann nehmen Sie 3 x 2 M beidseitig zu, dann haben Sie wieder die 18 M glatt in der 4. Größe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Shana 06.01.2017 - 21:31:

Ik ben even de weg kwijt bij de hals. Als ik het patroon lees en de tekst volg, zou ik voor maat m op 83 cm alle steken moeten afkanten. Echter heb ik al 82 cm na het breien van m2c. Dan zou ik nog zeker 6 naalden moeten breien (om 3 x de 3 steken samen te moeten breien voor de hals). Per twee naalden komt er ong. 1 cm bij, bij mij. Dus dan zou mijn werk zeker op 85 cm komen. Ik heb 4 x m2b gebreid en dan m2c zoals in het patroon staat. Ben ik toch ergens gemist?

DROPS Design 11.01.2017 kl. 11:55:

Hoi Shana. Klopt je stekenverhouding in de hoogte? Als je meer nld hebt in de hoogte dan de wat er staat (15 nld), dan wordt je werk ook hoger. Of je hebt het telpatroon verkeerd gebreid. Ik kan het helaas niet van afstand zien.

Ingrid Meuwissen 10.10.2016 - 12:15:

Na M.2.c. heb ik bij de hals 53 steken. Als ik 19 steken op de hulpdraad zet, heb ik nog 53-19/2=17 steken voor elke schouder. Hier snap ik het patroon niet meer goed. Als ik vanaf het midden die 17 steken ga afkanten is de kabel al snel weg terwijl die op de foto doorloopt tot aan de schouder naad. Hoe kan dat?

DROPS Design 10.10.2016 kl. 14:07:

Hoi Ingrid. Je zou voor maat L, nog 1 st over hebben van M.2B voor M.1/M.3 bij het plaatsen van de 17 middelste st op een draad. De kabel zal inderdaad verdwijnen door het samenbreien van de st bij de hals. Maar je ziet dat niet op de foto (wordt bedekt door de col).

Beatriz Sztain 10.03.2016 - 20:59:

The pattern was very easy to follow. It came out beautiful and it fits perfectly.

Beatriz Sztain 23.02.2016 - 04:13:

I do not understand the neck directions. What do I d o with the 21 stitches I placed on the holder. Do I bind them off or pick them when starting on the collar

DROPS Design 23.02.2016 kl. 09:13:

Dear Mrs Sztain, you will then work them when working collar, see "NECK" at the end of the pattern. Happy knitting!

Ingrid 19.01.2016 - 22:38:

Bedankt voor deze snelle reactie waar ik echt iets aan heb! Als ik het patroon korter wil maken is het dan slim om het gedeelte M2c achter wege te laten en een wat kortere boord te nemen, of is het dan beter om het patroon M2b dan maar 3x te doen in plaats van 4x?

DROPS Design 22.01.2016 kl. 15:57:

Hoi Ingrid. Ik zou M.2B een keer minder breien, maar kijk onderweg hoe het gaat en eruitziet.

Ingrid 18.01.2016 - 21:08:

Sorry, er is nog iets dat ik niet snap. Als ik uit ga van de op te zetten 75 steken, en de stekenverhouding is dat 11 steken 10 cm zijn, dan wordt het voorpand toch 75/11=68 cm breed? en na de eerste mindering 65 st = 59cm. Hoe zit het dan met de 54 cm bij maat L op de tekening?

DROPS Design 19.01.2016 kl. 14:44:

Hoi Ingrid. De stekenverhouding is in tricotsteek. Je breit boordsteek en kabels - dat trekt meer samen en daarom wordt de trui ook strakker.

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