DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Puddel
DROPS Puddel
94% Mohair, 6% Polyester
find alternatives

Santa's BFF

Knitted dog sweater in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Puddel or Melody. The piece is worked from neck to tail with rib, hood and crocheted edges. Sizes XS - M. Theme: Christmas

DROPS Extra 0-521
DROPS Design: Pattern z-385
Yarn group A + A or C

XS - S – M
The sweater is worked in rib – so will look a bit small but is very stretchy.

Chest: approx. 28/32 – 40/44 – 48/52 cm = 11"/12½" – 15¾"/17¼" – 19"/20½"
Back-length: approx. 24 – 32 - 40 cm = 9½" – 12½" – 15¾"
Examples of breeds: XS = Chihuahua,
S = Bichon Frisé, M = Cocker Spaniel

DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-150-200 g color 3620, red
And use:
DROPS Puddel from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
50-50-50 g color 01, off white
Or use:
DROPS Melody from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group D)
50-50-50 g color 01, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 40 cm = 16".
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm = 32" circular needle in each size.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 40 cm = 16".
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm = 32" circular needle in each size.

19 stitches in width and 25 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 2 strands DROPS Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Puddel
DROPS Puddel
94% Mohair, 6% Polyester
find alternatives

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.



GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.




The piece is worked from neck to tail. The neck and yoke are worked in the round. The yoke is divided for the front legs and the back and tummy worked separately, back and forth. The piece is re-joined and worked in the round, then the body is finished back and forth. The legs are worked in the round, the hood back and forth.
Edges are crocheted around the front legs, body and hood and a pom pom fastened to the top of the hood.

Cast on 48-64-80 stitches with double pointed needles/circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and 2 strands DROPS Alpaca.
Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 4-6-8 cm = 1½"-2⅜"-3⅛". Purl 1 round (you will knit up stitches in this round for the hood). Work 1 round of rib as before. On the next round increase every other purl-2 to purl-3 = 54-72-90 stitches.

Continue the new rib until the piece measures 6-10-14 cm = 2⅜"-4"-5½". Now increase the remaining purl-2 to purl-3 = 60-80-100 stitches.
Continue the new rib (knit 2, purl 3).
When the piece measures 8-12-16 cm = 3⅛"-4¾"-6¼" divide for the front legs as follows: Bind off 2 knitted stitches, place the next 13-18-23 stitches on 1 thread (= mid-tummy), bind off 2 knitted stitches, work the remaining 43-58-73 stitches as before.

= 43-58-73 stitches. Continue the rib back and forth until the piece measures 5-8-10 cm = 2"-3⅛"-4" from the division. Place the stitches on 1 thread.

Place the 13-18-23 tummy-stitches back on the needle and work rib back and forth for 5-8-10 cm = 2"-3⅛"-4".

Place all stitches on the needle. Continue rib in the round AT THE SAME TIME cast on 2 stitches in each side between the tummy and back = 60-80-100 stitches. When the piece measures 20-28-35 cm = 8"-11"-13¾" bind off 9-10-13 stitches mid-tummy. Finish the piece back and forth. AT THE SAME TIME, bind off on each side at the beginning of each row as follows: 2 stitches 2 times, 1 stitch 2-5-7 times, 2 stitches 1 time and 3 stitches 1 time. Bind off the remaining 29-42-55 stitches.
The piece measures approx. 25-35-45 cm = 9¾"-13¾"-17¾".

Knit up 36-52-64 stitches around the leg-opening, with 1 strand DROPS Alpaca and double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 3-5-7 cm = 1⅛"-2"-2¾", bind off with rib.
Repeat around the other leg-opening.

Fold the neck to the wrong side along the purled round. Hold the sweater with this round away from you. Use 1 strand DROPS Alpaca and circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and knit up stitches around the neck (do not knit up in the 6-10-14 stitches mid-tummy) = 42-54-66 stitches. Purl 1 row back and increase to 70-90-110 stitches as follows:
* Purl 1, purl 2 stitches in each of the next 2 stitches *, work from *-* to end of row.
Work stockinette stitch back and forth with 3 GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, on each side, until the hood measures 12-16-20 cm = 4¾"-6¼"-8". For a neat finish, graft the stitches at the top together without binding off, or bind off and sew together with grafting stitches.

Using hook size 6 MM = US J/10 and DROPS Puddel or DROPS Melody, crochet an edge around the hood, the bottom of each leg and the bottom edge of the body – make sure the edges are not tight. Fasten the strand with 1 slip stitch and work as follows: 1 chain stitch, * 1 chain stitch, skip 1 cm = ⅜", 1 single crochet in next stitch *, work from *-* and finish with 1 chain stitch, skip 1 cm = ⅜" and work 1 slip stitch in the chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

Make 1 pom pom, 5 cm = 2" in diameter with DROPS Puddel or DROPS Melody. Fasten to the top of the hood.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 07.11.2023
The pattern has been reviewed and rephrased.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Teri wrote:

I found the answer to my question in the tutorial videos. Sorry for the trouble. Thank you.

13.06.2022 - 02:01

country flag Teri wrote:

Hello-when it says to increase every other P2 to P3, exactly what does that involve, purling a knit stitch (part of K2 in previous round), or yarn over to create a new stitch? Thank you

13.06.2022 - 01:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Terri, you should increase the number of purled stitches in every other Purl-section, you can for example increase with a yarn over - see video. Happy knitting!

13.06.2022 - 11:31

country flag Annick Desnoyers wrote:

Bonjour, Après le montage des 64 mailles, on tricote un rang à l'envres. J'ai tout de suite monté les 90 mailles pour la capuche. Est-ce ainsi que l'on doit procéder ? Merci.

27.04.2019 - 18:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Desnoyers, on doit monter 64 m dans la 2ème taille et 80 m dans la 3ème taille, puis tricoter 6-8 cm de côtes 2/2. On tricote ensuite 1 tour envers, puis au tour suivant, on tricote en côtes comme avant, et, en même temps, on augmente 1 maille env dans 1 section env sur 2 (= 8-10 augmentations) = on a maintenant 72/90 m. On tricote ensuite les mailles comme elles se présentent puis on augmente 1 m env dans les sections 2 m env restantes (= 8-10 augmentations) = 80-100 m. On continue alors en côtes 2 m end/3 m env. Bon tricot!

29.04.2019 - 09:35

country flag Mariarita wrote:

Spettabile Staff,buongiorno.Volevo augurare a tutti Voi serene festività.Un gaio 2019,all'insegna della creatività ed in compagnia del Vs. colorato e fantasioso mondo del crochet e del knitting.Grazie.

21.12.2018 - 11:24

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Mariarita. Ringraziamo e ricambiamo gli auguri per queste Feste!!

21.12.2018 - 13:01

country flag Susan wrote:

I am stuck at "divide for legs: Bind off 2 K sts slip next 18 bind off 2 K sts. If you bind off 2 K sts you have your working yarn on the 1st purl stitch which is counted as 1st st of 18 in order to bind off 2 K sts after 18. However, how do you bind off two K sts after the 18 that were slipped onto stitch holder when working yarn is at the beginning of the 18 slipped sts?

14.12.2017 - 09:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Susan, bind off the first 2 sts on round, work the next 17 sts (+ 1 st on needle after binding off 2nd st) and slip them on a st holder, bind off next 2 sts and work to end of row = 58 sts remain for back piece. Happy knitting!

14.12.2017 - 10:35

country flag Susan wrote:

Can this pattern be made with one strand of worsted weight instead of two strands of yarn?

07.12.2017 - 23:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Susan, You can use here 1 strand yarn group C instead of 2 strands yarn group A (as Alpaca). Read more here about alternatives. Happy knitting!

08.12.2017 - 08:31

country flag Lilou wrote:

Je trouve déplorable la nouvelle présentation de votre site. Je suis passée par google pour retrouver un modèle avec son numéro!!. Vous donnez différentes possibilités en allant sur le ?. mais dans quoi chercher??... C'était beaucoup plus simple avant!!

24.11.2016 - 10:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lilou, nous sommes désolées que vous ayez du mal à vous faire à la nouvelle présentation, vous pouvez désormais accéder à n'importe quel modèle à partir de notre site en indiquant son numéro dans la case "Cherchez des modèles!" - plus d'infos ici, et vous avez désormais à votre disposition des filtres bien utiles pour cibler votre recherche. Bon tricot!

24.11.2016 - 11:51

country flag Julie wrote:

Hello, can you tell me if the hood is knitted on 3mm or 4mm needles with one or two strands? The pattern is not really clear. Thank you for your help.

11.11.2016 - 16:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Julie, hood is worked with 2 strands Alpaca and needle size 4 mm (as for body) - needle size 3 mm are only used for the edge around legs. Happy knitting!

14.11.2016 - 08:50

country flag Caroline wrote:

Hej! Undrar lite med minskningen under magen vid 20-28-35 cm. Ska det minskas 10 maskor och mitt i detta så delas arbetet så man avmaskar på varje varv sen eller ska det avmaskas 10 maskor mitt under magen? Mvh caroline

29.08.2014 - 20:27

DROPS Design answered:

Om du stickar S avm 10 m under magen när arb mäter 28 cm. Sedan avm det i varje sida enligt beskrivningen.

03.09.2014 - 11:28

country flag Alex wrote:

Merci beaucoup, ça paraît logique maintenant que vous le dites :) Merci également pour les diverses explications, ce site est une vraie mine d'informations.

10.03.2014 - 21:22