DROPS Baby / 11 / 23

Starry and Warm by DROPS Design

Thick jumper and hat in 1 strand DROPS Eskimo or 2 strands DROPS Air with crochet flower. Socks in DROPS BabyMerino.

JUMPER + HAT:
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 – 24 months
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 - 86/92

Materials: DROPS Eskimo from Garnstudio
Jumper + hat
200-250-250-250 g colour no. 08 red.
100-100-100-100 g colour no. 13 camel.

Or use:
DROPS Air from Garnstudio
150-200-200-200 colour no. 28 red brick
50-100-100-100 colour no. 02 wheat

DROPS pointed needles size 8 and 9 mm
DROPS Crochet hook size 4 mm
DROPS coconut button, no. 516: 3 pcs.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 1.90 £ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 2.40 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension:
Jumper: 9 sts x 14 rows on needles size 9 mm with 1 strand Eskimo or 2 strands Air in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Hat: 10 sts x 16 rows on needles size 8 mm with 1 strand Eskimo or 2 strands Air in stocking sts= 10x 10 cm

Garter sts (back and forth on needle): Knit all rows.
Dec. off tips (apply to raglan): Dec inside 1 edge st + 2 sts of stocking sts. All dec. are done from the RS!
After 3 sts: K2 tog.
Before 3 sts: Slip a st as if to knit, K1, psso.

JUMPER:
Back piece: Cast on 25-28-31-34 sts on needles size 8 mm with camel Eskimo / wheat Air and knit 2 rows of garter sts. Change to needles size 9 mm and red Eskimo / red brick Air and continue in stocking sts. Remember the knitting tension!.
When piece measures 15-16-19-22 cm cast off 2 sts each side for armholes = 21-24-27-30 sts. Then cast off for raglan each side – see dec. tips: 1 st on every 4th row 2 times and then 1 st on every other row 3-4-5-6 times = 11-12-13-14 sts on row. Cast off when piece measures approx. 26-28-32-36 cm.

Front piece: Cast on and knit as the back piece.
Cast off for the raglan as done for the back piece as far as possible (this means until meeting the dec. for the neck – see below). At the same time when the piece measures 23-25-29-33 cm put the centre 7-8-9-10 sts on a thread for the neck, continue to cast off 1 st towards the neck on every other row until no sts left. The piece measures approx. 26-28-32-36 cm.

Right sleeve (when worn): Cast on 14-14-16-16 sts on needle size 8 mm with camel Eskimo / wheat Air and knit 2 rows of garter sts.
Change to needles size 9 mm and red Eskimo / red brick Air and continue in stocking sts. When piece measures 4 cm inc 1 st each side a total of 4-5-5-6 times on every 3.5-3-3.5-3 cm = 22-24-26-28 sts. When piece measures 17-18-21-23 cm cast off 2 sts each side for armhole = 18-20-22-24 sts.
Please read all of the following section before continuing: cast on 2 new sts at the right side of piece (= additional band sts for buttons) = 20-22-24-26 sts. Cast off for raglan each side – see dec. tips on how to dec. at the side with extra band sts. At the other side dec. from the edge as follows: Dec 1 st on every 4th row 1 time and then 1 st on every other row 5-6-7-8 times = 8 sts left for shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 28-30-34-37 cm.

Left Sleeve: Cast on and knit as the right sleeve but do not make the band for the buttons. Dec from the edge both side = 6 sts left for the shoulder. Cats off remaining sts when piece measures 28-30-34-37 cm.

Assembly: Sew all the raglan seams inside 1 edge st except for the right front seam. Pick up 30 – 36 sts around the neck (do also pick sts up over the band) on needle size 8 with red Eskimo / red brick Air. Knit 2 rows of garter sts, cast off loosely. Sew the casting on edge from the band tight to the front piece with a couple of small sts from the WS. Sew in 3 buttons evenly distributed on the band. Use sts (they are big enough) as buttonholes. Sew sleeve and side seams together – sew in the outermost loop of the outermost sts so the seam doesn’t become to chunky.

Crochet flower: Crochet on hook size 4 with red Eskimo / red brick Air as follows:
Crochet 4 ch and make a loop with a sl st.
1st round: 5 dc in the loop, finish with a sl st in the first dc on round.
2nd round: *3 ch, 1 dc + 1 tr in the first ch from hook, 1 dc in the following st*, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times and finish with 1 sl st in the first ch from beg of round. Sew the flower tight to the jumper at the front.

HAT

To fit head: 40/44 cm – 46/50 cm

Earflaps: Cast on 2 sts with needle size 8 mm in red Eskimo / red brick Air and knit garter sts back and forth. At the same time after 2 rows of garter sts inc 1 st each side on every other row a total of 5-6 times.
The piece measures approx. 5-6 cm. Put aside and knit another earflap.

Hat: The hat is knitted back and forth from mid back and are sewn tog afterwards. Now insert the earflaps on the same needle as follows: cast on 3-3 sts with needle size 8 mm in camel Eskimo / wheat Air put 1 earflap on needle (= 12-14 sts), cast on 8-10 sts (= the front), put the other earflap on the needle (= 12-14 sts) and cast on 3-3 sts = 38 -44 sts in total. Knit 2 rows of garter sts over all sts. Continue to measure from this point onwards! Finish the hat in stocking sts. At the same time when piece measures 8-9 cm (from the 2 rows in garter sts) insert 6 marking threads in piece as follows (from the RS): *6-7 sts, 1 MT*, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times, after the MT = 2 sts left. Continue to cast off to the right of each MT as follows: K2 tog. = 6 dec per row. Dec on every other row: 5-6 times = 8 sts left on needle. Knit 1 row at the same time knit all the remaining sts tog 2 by 2. Pull a thread through the remaining 4 sts and sew tight. Sew the hat tog the mid back in the outer most part of the outer most st so the seam doesn’t become to chunky. Make a solid round pompom with a diameter of approx. 5 cm – use mostly camel Eskimo / wheat Air colour but also a little of the red Eskimo / red brick Air. Sew the pompom to the top of the hat.

Crochet flower: Crochet a flower in camel Eskimo / wheat Air – see explanation under the Jumper. Sew the flower to the hat mid front.

SOCKS

Foot length: 10-11-12-14 cm
Materials: Baby Merino from Garnstudio
50-50-50-50 g colour no. 02, off white.

DROPS double pointed needles size 2.5 mm.

Knitting tension: 25 sts x 34 rows on needles size 2.5 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

Sock: Cast on 44-44-48-48 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with off white. Knit in Rib for 4-5-5-6 cm. Then knit 1 round of stocking sts at the same time dec 4 sts evenly distributed = 40-40-44-44 sts. Continue to knit the heel as follows: Knit 3-3.5-3.5-4 cm of stocking sts back and forth over the 18 centre sts mid back.
Casting off for the heel:
1st row (= RS): K10, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn
2nd row: Slip 1 st as if to knit, P4, P2 tog, P1, turn
3rd row: Slip 1 st as if to knit, K5, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn
4th row: Slip 1 st as if to knit, P6, P2 tog, P1, turn
5th row: Slip 1 st as if to knit, K7, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn
6th row: Slip 1 st af if to knit, P8, P2 tog, P1, turn
7th row: K2 tog, K8, K2 twisted tog = 10 sts on needle (= total 32-32-36-36 sts).
Pick up 7-8-8-9 sts each side of the heel and put all sts on the same needle = 46-48-52-54 sts. Continue in stocking over all sts. At the same time dec 1 st each side of the upper 18-20-22-24 sts 7 times on every other row = 32-34-38-40 sts. When the foot measures 8-9-11-12 cm from the beginning of the heel insert a marking thread each side. Dec 1 st each side of both markers for the toes on every round ( = 4 dec. per round) a total of 7-7-8-8 times. Pull the thread through the remaining 4-6-6-8 sts and sew tight.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 11-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (18)

Sandra 13.12.2018 - 12:17:

Er staat bij de mindering rechtermouw eerst het knoopbiesje dan minderen volgens raglanmouwen-zie info meerderen voor het minderen bij het biesje\r\nGeen idee wat er bedoeld wordt kan het niet vinden op de beschrijving\r\nEn dan denk minder aan de andere kant enz. \r\nGeen idee wat er wordt bedoelt\r\nHoop dat jullie mij kunnen helpen\r\nMet groet

Juspin Denise 13.10.2017 - 15:15:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends les diminutions du raglan de la manche droite. Apparemment elles sont différentes des 2 côtés? Cordialement

DROPS Design 01.06.2018 kl. 09:22:

Bonjour Denise! Comment faire les diminutions du raglan vous trouverez ICI. Bon travail!

Van Herreweghe 06.10.2017 - 15:24:

Enige verduidelijking in verband met meerderen en minderen aan het knoopbiesje

DROPS Design 07.10.2017 kl. 16:24:

Hallo Van Herreweghe, Bij de rechter mouw zet je aan de rechter kant, aan het begin van de raglan, 2 steken op. Deze brei je over de hele hoogte mee. Deze 2 steken vormen de bies.

Ethier Ghislaine 29.03.2017 - 20:17:

Puis-je avoir plus d'explications sur ce passage. Je ne comprends pas la bande de boutonnage..... Diminutions (raglan) : Toutes les diminutions se font sur l'endroit. Diminuer à 1 m lis + 2 m point mousse des bords Après 3 m : 2 m ens à l'end Avant 2 m : glisser 1 m à l'end, 1 m end, passer la m glissée par dessus la m tricotée Merci

DROPS Design 30.03.2017 kl. 08:51:

Bonjour Mme Ethier, on doit diminuer à 3 m du bord, soit 1 m lis au point mousse + 2 m jersey (et non point mousse, correction faite). Bon tricot!

Agneta Wiklund 06.12.2016 - 18:11:

Visar siffrorna vid diagrammet hur många cm t ex bredd och längd är? Eller betyder siffrorna något annat?

DROPS Design 07.12.2016 kl. 10:12:

Hej Agneta. Ja, det er maalene i cm paa blusen. Se ogsaa her hvordan du laeser vores maalskitser

Line Dorthea 26.02.2016 - 08:32:

Jeg kan stadig ikke finde video-knappen. Er du sikker på, at der er en til netop denne opskrift? På forstykket: Er det meningen, at jeg skal tage de 8 midterste masker af på en maskeholder og derefter strikke de to sider op i en spids hver for sig? Altså med 2 forskellige garnnøgler?

DROPS Design 02.03.2016 kl. 15:34:

Hej Line, Ja sæt de midterste masker på en tråd/maskeholder, fortsæt først med den ene side og bagefter den anden side. Der ligger mange forskellige videoer under video-knappen til højre for billedet, det er bare at vælge hvilken du har brug for. God fornøjelse!

Line Dorthea 24.02.2016 - 11:32:

Jeg kan ikke se nogen videoknap til denne opskrift. Hvor er den?

DROPS Design 24.02.2016 kl. 15:09:

Hej Line, Du finder "video-knappen" til højre for billedet. God fornøjelse!

Line Dorthea 23.02.2016 - 12:43:

Hej Jeg er strikke-nybegynder. Jeg har fået strikket bagstykket til denne trøje og er nu i tvivl om, hvordan jeg skal strikke forstykket. Hvordan ved jeg, hvornår jeg er nået til halslukningen og hvad vil det sige at sætte de midterste masker på 1 tråd til hals? På forhånd tak for svaret.

DROPS Design 23.02.2016 kl. 15:37:

Hej Line, Du følger opskriften som på rygstykket til arb måler 23-25-29-33 cm (alt efter hvilken størrelse du strikker) og så fortsætter du efter forklaringen til forstykket. Du kan også altid se de instruktionsvideoer som hører til opskriften ved at klikke på "video" knappen. God fornøjelse!

Sjell Dohmen 08.01.2014 - 08:21:

Let op voor maatje 12/18 maanden en groter 4 bollen rood eskimo wol bestellen !!! En 2 bollen camel. Er gaat meer in de muts en trui dan staat aangegeven in het patroon!

DROPS Design 08.01.2014 kl. 10:44:

Hoi Sjell. Bedankt voor het melden. Wij zullen het noteren en komen er meer opmerkingen voor deze maat, dan zullen wij het patroon aanpassen.

Mette 13.03.2013 - 09:27:

Når der står, at man skal bruge Drops pindene 8 og 9, hvilke pinde er der så tale om? Har været inde og kigge på de forskellige Drops strikkepinde, men jeg synes ikke, der er nogen der specifikt hedder nr. 8 & 9..?

DROPS Design 15.03.2013 kl. 09:35:

Du skal bruge både pinde 8 og pinde 9 det ser du når du læser opskriften.

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