DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.20 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Starry and Warm

Thick jumper and hat in 1 strand DROPS Snow or 2 strands DROPS Air with crochet flower. Socks in DROPS BabyMerino.

DROPS Baby 11-23
JUMPER + HAT:
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 – 24 months
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 - 86/92

Materials: DROPS Snow from Garnstudio
Jumper + hat
200-250-250-250 g colour no. 08 red.
100-100-100-100 g colour no. 13 camel.

Or use:
DROPS Air from Garnstudio
150-200-200-200 colour no. 28 red brick
50-100-100-100 colour no. 02 wheat

DROPS pointed needles size 8 and 9 mm
DROPS Crochet hook size 4 mm
DROPS coconut button, no. 516: 3 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.20 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

Knitting tension:
Jumper: 9 sts x 14 rows on needles size 9 mm with 1 strand Snow or 2 strands Air in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Hat: 10 sts x 16 rows on needles size 8 mm with 1 strand Snow or 2 strands Air in stocking sts= 10x 10 cm

Garter sts (back and forth on needle): Knit all rows.
Dec. off tips (apply to raglan): Dec inside 1 edge st + 2 sts of stocking sts. All dec. are done from the RS!
After 3 sts: K2 tog.
Before 3 sts: Slip a st as if to knit, K1, psso.

JUMPER:
Back piece: Cast on 25-28-31-34 sts on needles size 8 mm with camel Snow / wheat Air and knit 2 rows of garter sts. Change to needles size 9 mm and red Snow / red brick Air and continue in stocking sts. Remember the knitting tension!.
When piece measures 15-16-19-22 cm cast off 2 sts each side for armholes = 21-24-27-30 sts. Then cast off for raglan each side – see dec. tips: 1 st on every 4th row 2 times and then 1 st on every other row 3-4-5-6 times = 11-12-13-14 sts on row. Cast off when piece measures approx. 26-28-32-36 cm.

Front piece: Cast on and knit as the back piece.
Cast off for the raglan as done for the back piece as far as possible (this means until meeting the dec. for the neck – see below). At the same time when the piece measures 23-25-29-33 cm put the centre 7-8-9-10 sts on a thread for the neck, continue to cast off 1 st towards the neck on every other row until no sts left. The piece measures approx. 26-28-32-36 cm.

Right sleeve (when worn): Cast on 14-14-16-16 sts on needle size 8 mm with camel Snow / wheat Air and knit 2 rows of garter sts.
Change to needles size 9 mm and red Snow / red brick Air and continue in stocking sts. When piece measures 4 cm inc 1 st each side a total of 4-5-5-6 times on every 3.5-3-3.5-3 cm = 22-24-26-28 sts. When piece measures 17-18-21-23 cm cast off 2 sts each side for armhole = 18-20-22-24 sts.
Please read all of the following section before continuing: cast on 2 new sts at the right side of piece (= additional band sts for buttons) = 20-22-24-26 sts. Cast off for raglan each side – see dec. tips on how to dec. at the side with extra band sts. At the other side dec. from the edge as follows: Dec 1 st on every 4th row 1 time and then 1 st on every other row 5-6-7-8 times = 8 sts left for shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 28-30-34-37 cm.

Left Sleeve: Cast on and knit as the right sleeve but do not make the band for the buttons. Dec from the edge both side = 6 sts left for the shoulder. Cats off remaining sts when piece measures 28-30-34-37 cm.

Assembly: Sew all the raglan seams inside 1 edge st except for the right front seam. Pick up 30 – 36 sts around the neck (do also pick sts up over the band) on needle size 8 with red Snow / red brick Air. Knit 2 rows of garter sts, cast off loosely. Sew the casting on edge from the band tight to the front piece with a couple of small sts from the WS. Sew in 3 buttons evenly distributed on the band. Use sts (they are big enough) as buttonholes. Sew sleeve and side seams together – sew in the outermost loop of the outermost sts so the seam doesn’t become to chunky.

Crochet flower: Crochet on hook size 4 with red Snow / red brick Air as follows:
Crochet 4 ch and make a loop with a sl st.
1st round: 5 dc in the loop, finish with a sl st in the first dc on round.
2nd round: *3 ch, 1 dc + 1 tr in the first ch from hook, 1 dc in the following st*, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times and finish with 1 sl st in the first ch from beg of round. Sew the flower tight to the jumper at the front.

HAT

To fit head: 40/44 cm – 46/50 cm

Earflaps: Cast on 2 sts with needle size 8 mm in red Snow / red brick Air and knit garter sts back and forth. At the same time after 2 rows of garter sts inc 1 st each side on every other row a total of 5-6 times.
The piece measures approx. 5-6 cm. Put aside and knit another earflap.

Hat: The hat is knitted back and forth from mid back and are sewn tog afterwards. Now insert the earflaps on the same needle as follows: cast on 3-3 sts with needle size 8 mm in camel Snow / wheat Air put 1 earflap on needle (= 12-14 sts), cast on 8-10 sts (= the front), put the other earflap on the needle (= 12-14 sts) and cast on 3-3 sts = 38 -44 sts in total. Knit 2 rows of garter sts over all sts. Continue to measure from this point onwards! Finish the hat in stocking sts. At the same time when piece measures 8-9 cm (from the 2 rows in garter sts) insert 6 marking threads in piece as follows (from the RS): *6-7 sts, 1 MT*, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times, after the MT = 2 sts left. Continue to cast off to the right of each MT as follows: K2 tog. = 6 dec per row. Dec on every other row: 5-6 times = 8 sts left on needle. Knit 1 row at the same time knit all the remaining sts tog 2 by 2. Pull a thread through the remaining 4 sts and sew tight. Sew the hat tog the mid back in the outer most part of the outer most st so the seam doesn’t become to chunky. Make a solid round pompom with a diameter of approx. 5 cm – use mostly camel Snow / wheat Air colour but also a little of the red Snow / red brick Air. Sew the pompom to the top of the hat.

Crochet flower: Crochet a flower in camel Snow / wheat Air – see explanation under the Jumper. Sew the flower to the hat mid front.

SOCKS

Foot length: 10-11-12-14 cm
Materials: Baby Merino from Garnstudio
50-50-50-50 g colour no. 02, off white.

DROPS double pointed needles size 2.5 mm.

Knitting tension: 25 sts x 34 rows on needles size 2.5 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

Sock: Cast on 44-44-48-48 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with off white. Knit in Rib for 4-5-5-6 cm. Then knit 1 round of stocking sts at the same time dec 4 sts evenly distributed = 40-40-44-44 sts. Continue to knit the heel as follows: Knit 3-3.5-3.5-4 cm of stocking sts back and forth over the 18 centre sts mid back.
Casting off for the heel:
1st row (= RS): K10, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn
2nd row: Slip 1 st as if to knit, P4, P2 tog, P1, turn
3rd row: Slip 1 st as if to knit, K5, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn
4th row: Slip 1 st as if to knit, P6, P2 tog, P1, turn
5th row: Slip 1 st as if to knit, K7, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn
6th row: Slip 1 st af if to knit, P8, P2 tog, P1, turn
7th row: K2 tog, K8, K2 twisted tog = 10 sts on needle (= total 32-32-36-36 sts).
Pick up 7-8-8-9 sts each side of the heel and put all sts on the same needle = 46-48-52-54 sts. Continue in stocking over all sts. At the same time dec 1 st each side of the upper 18-20-22-24 sts 7 times on every other row = 32-34-38-40 sts. When the foot measures 8-9-11-12 cm from the beginning of the heel insert a marking thread each side. Dec 1 st each side of both markers for the toes on every round ( = 4 dec. per round) a total of 7-7-8-8 times. Pull the thread through the remaining 4-6-6-8 sts and sew tight.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Noémie wrote:

Bonjour, pour le devant du pull je ne comprends pas les explications de la fin. Il faut ajouter une maille coté encolure des deux cotés ou d'un seul? Et il faut continuer les diminutions comme pour le dos en même temps?

08.03.2022 - 15:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Noémie, lorsque vous avez mis les mailles de l'encolure devant en attente, vous devez terminer chaque côté séparément en glissant en attente 1 m côté encolure tous les 2 rangs et en continuant à former le raglan comme avant; lorsque le 1er côté est terminé, reprenez les mailles en attente et terminez le 2ème côté de la même façon. Bon tricot!

08.03.2022 - 22:10

country flag Adrienn wrote:

Jo napot, az lenne a kerdesem, hogy a sapka 12/18 honaposra valo meret leirasat nem talalom. Nagyon szeretnem a fiamnak megkotni. Tud ebben segiteni? Koszonom !

24.09.2021 - 20:56

DROPS Design answered:

Kedves Adrien, a sapka két méretben 40/44 cm és 46/50 cm kerületű fejre való méretben érhető el. Mérje le a gyermek fejét, és ennek alapján válassza ki a méretet. Sikeres kézimunkázást!

27.09.2021 - 02:53

country flag Isabelle Swialkowski Aubry wrote:

Bonjour Urgent Pour le raglan avec la bande de boutonnage. Dois JE faire les diminutions sur 1 seul côté ou les 2 côté merci

15.12.2020 - 11:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Swialkowski Aubry, on former le raglan de chaque côté au même rythme pour la manche droite, mais côté bordure devant, vous diminuez comme indiqué sous Diminutions (raglan), autrement dit à 3 m du bord - et de l'autre côté, vous rabattez les mailles en début de rang. Bon tricot!

15.12.2020 - 14:49

country flag Christa Karger-Fengler wrote:

Guten Tag, kann es sein, dass dieses Modell mit doppeltem Faden Air gestrickt werden muss? Eskimo und Air gehören ja nicht zur gleichen Garngruppe.

27.08.2020 - 16:28

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Karger-Fengler, ja genau, wenn Sie Air stricken, dann stricken Sie doppelfädig mit einer Maschenprobe von = 9 M x 14 Reihe mit Nadeln Nr 9 oder 10 M x 16 R mit Nadeln Nr 8 glatt gestrickt = 10 x 10 cm. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.08.2020 - 08:02

country flag Sandra wrote:

Er staat bij de mindering rechtermouw eerst het knoopbiesje dan minderen volgens raglanmouwen-zie info meerderen voor het minderen bij het biesje\r\nGeen idee wat er bedoeld wordt kan het niet vinden op de beschrijving\r\nEn dan denk minder aan de andere kant enz. \r\nGeen idee wat er wordt bedoelt\r\nHoop dat jullie mij kunnen helpen\r\nMet groet

13.12.2018 - 12:17

country flag Juspin Denise wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends les diminutions du raglan de la manche droite. Apparemment elles sont différentes des 2 côtés? Cordialement

13.10.2017 - 15:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Denise! Comment faire les diminutions du raglan vous trouverez ICI. Bon travail!

01.06.2018 - 09:22

country flag Van Herreweghe wrote:

Enige verduidelijking in verband met meerderen en minderen aan het knoopbiesje

06.10.2017 - 15:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Van Herreweghe, Bij de rechter mouw zet je aan de rechter kant, aan het begin van de raglan, 2 steken op. Deze brei je over de hele hoogte mee. Deze 2 steken vormen de bies.

07.10.2017 - 16:24

country flag Ethier Ghislaine wrote:

Puis-je avoir plus d'explications sur ce passage. Je ne comprends pas la bande de boutonnage..... Diminutions (raglan) : Toutes les diminutions se font sur l'endroit. Diminuer à 1 m lis + 2 m point mousse des bords Après 3 m : 2 m ens à l'end Avant 2 m : glisser 1 m à l'end, 1 m end, passer la m glissée par dessus la m tricotée Merci

29.03.2017 - 20:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Ethier, on doit diminuer à 3 m du bord, soit 1 m lis au point mousse + 2 m jersey (et non point mousse, correction faite). Bon tricot!

30.03.2017 - 08:51

country flag Agneta Wiklund wrote:

Visar siffrorna vid diagrammet hur många cm t ex bredd och längd är? Eller betyder siffrorna något annat?

06.12.2016 - 18:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Agneta. Ja, det er maalene i cm paa blusen. Se ogsaa her hvordan du laeser vores maalskitser

07.12.2016 - 10:12

country flag Line Dorthea wrote:

Jeg kan stadig ikke finde video-knappen. Er du sikker på, at der er en til netop denne opskrift? På forstykket: Er det meningen, at jeg skal tage de 8 midterste masker af på en maskeholder og derefter strikke de to sider op i en spids hver for sig? Altså med 2 forskellige garnnøgler?

26.02.2016 - 08:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Line, Ja sæt de midterste masker på en tråd/maskeholder, fortsæt først med den ene side og bagefter den anden side. Der ligger mange forskellige videoer under video-knappen til højre for billedet, det er bare at vælge hvilken du har brug for. God fornøjelse!

02.03.2016 - 15:34