DROPS Baby / 16 / 25

Petite Heidi by DROPS Design

Set of knitted dress with Nordic pattern and short rows, bolero and socks in DROPS Fabel and DROPS Alpaca, for baby and children

Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
DRESS
Bust: 44-48-54 (60-70) cm [17¼”-19”-21¼” (23 5/8”-27½”)]
Full length: 38-45-54 (60-66) cm [15”-17¾”-21¼” (23 5/8”-26”)]

Materials:
DRESS: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100-100-100 (150-150) g color no 159, red chilli
And use: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
50-50-50 (50-100) g color no 3620, red
50 g for all sizes color no 0100, off-white

BOLERO: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
100-100-100 (150-150) g color no 3620, red.
And use: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
A remnant from the dress, color no 159, red chilli.

SOCKS: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes color no 159, red chilli.

DRESS:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 cm [16” and 24”]) size 3 mm [US 2or3] – or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st, and 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].
In M.1 and M.2 knitting gauge will be width = 25 sts because of the use of several colors.

BOLERO:
DROPS POINTED Needles size 3 mm [US 2or3] – or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].
DROPS CROCHET Hook size 3 mm [C].

SOCKS:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED Needles size 2.5 mm [US 1] – or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 3.35 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.75 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
DRESS

GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN:
Se diagram M.1 and M.2. The diagram shows the pattern from the RS and the entire pattern is worked in stockinette st.
For the 3 middle rounds of M.2 in Fabel, we’ve used a light red section of the ball.

DECREASING TIP (applies to armhole):
Make all dec from RS inside 3 garter sts.
Dec as follows before 3 garter sts: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after 3 garter sts: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
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DRESS:
First work skirt from side to side. Pick up sts at bottom edge for border and then pick up sts at the top for yoke.

SKIRT:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 34-52-72 (82-94) sts with Fabel on circular needle size 3 mm [US 2or3]. Work garter st back and forth on needle, AT THE SAME TIME work shortened rows as follows (to make the skirt wider at the bottom): work 2 rows on all sts, * work 17-26-36 (41-47) sts, turn piece, tighten thread, slip first st as if to K and work return row, work 4 rows on all sts, work 28-43-60 (68-78) sts, turn piece, tighten thread, slip first st as if to K and work return row, work 2 rows on all sts *, repeat from *-*.
(1 repeat of the above = 10 rows at the bottom and 6 rows at the top).
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 44-48-54 (60-66) cm [17¼”-19”-21¼” (23 5/8”-26”)] at the top (piece measures approx 73-80-90 (100-110) cm [28¾”-31½”-35½” (39 3/8”-43 3/8”)] at the bottom), bind off LOOSELY.
Sew skirt tog mid back, edge to edge.

BORDER AT BOTTOM:
Pick up 1 st in every other row at the bottom of skirt on circular needle size 3 mm [US 2or3] with Fabel = approx 175-192-216 (240-264) sts. P 1 round. Change to red Alpaca, K 1 round and P 1 round. Change to off-white Alpaca and K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME adjusting no of sts to 180-198-234 (252-270). Now continue in M.1 (= 10-11-13 (14-15) repeats across round). After M.1 change to red Alpaca and work 2 rounds garter st – SEE ABOVE. Change to Fabel, work 6 rounds garter st and bind off LOOSELY.

YOKE:
Pick up 1 st in every other row at the top of skirt on circular needle size 3 mm [US 2or3] with red Alpaca = approx 106-116-130 (144-158) sts. P 1 round. Change to off-white Alpaca and K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 112-120-136 (152-168). Now continue in M.2 (= 14-15-17 (19-21) repeats across the round), AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-6-6 (8-10) sts evenly on the last round of M.2 = 106-114-130 (144-158) sts. Insert a marker each side (= 53-57-65 (72-79) sts on front and back piece). Change to red Alpaca, work 2 rounds garter st and then continue in stockinette st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 28-34-42 (47-52) cm [11”-13 3/8”-16½” (18½”-20½”)] work 4 rounds garter st on 12 sts each side (= 6 sts on each side of both markers), work remaining sts in stockinette st as before. Now bind off the middle 6 of the 12 garter sts each side for armhole and complete front and back pieces separately.

FRONT PIECE: = 47-51-59 (66-73) sts. Continue in stockinette st with 3 garter sts each side, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st each side for armhole – SEE DECREASING TIP –on every other row a total of 4-4-4 (5-5) times = 39-43-51 (56-63) sts. When piece measures 33-40-48 (53-58) cm [13”-15¾”-19” (21”-22¾”)] slip the middle 9-11-13 (16-17) sts on a stitch holder for neck and complete each side separately. Bind off to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 4 times = 9-10-13 (14-17) sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 38-45-54 (60-66) cm [15”-17¾”-21¼” (23 5/8”-26”)].

BACK PIECE: = 47-51-59 (66-73) sts.
Dec for armhole as described for front piece and continue until piece measures 36-43-52 (58-64) cm [14¼”-17”-20½” (22¾”-25¼”)]. Now bind off the middle 17-19-21 (24-25) sts for neck and complete each side separately. Bind off to shape the neckline on every other row: 1 st 2 times = 9-10-13 (14-17) sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 38-45-54 (60-66) cm [15”-17¾”-21¼” (23 5/8”-26”)].

ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams.

NECKLINE: Pick up 65-70-75 (80-85) sts (incl sts on stitch holder at front) round the neckline on needle size 3 mm [US 2or3] with Fabel. P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round and bind off in K sts.
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BOLERO:
Worked back and forth on pointed needles in garter st.
Cast on 34-38-40 (44-48) sts on needle size 3 mm [US 2or3] with Fabel. K 4 rows and cut the thread. Change to red Alpaca, cast on 14-17-21 (24-27) sts at beg of row, work the 34-38-40 (44-48) sts on needle and cast on 14-17-21 (24-27) sts at the end of row = 62-72-82 (92-102) sts. Continue in garter st, AT THE SAME TIME work shortened rows as follows (to make the bolero wider at the sides): * work 5 rows on all sts, work 10-12-15 (18-20) sts, turn piece, tighten thread, slip first st as if to K and work return row, work 1 row on all sts, work 10-12-15 (18-20) sts, turn piece, tighten thread, slip first st as if to K and work return row *, repeat from *-* until piece measures approx 22-25-28 (31-35) cm [8¾”-9¾”-11” (12¼”-13¾”)] in the middle.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Work next row as follows from RS: bind off the first 14-17-21 (24-27) sts, work remaining sts on row. Bind off the first 14-17-21 (24-27) sts on next row from WS and work remaining sts on row. Change to Fabel and K 4 rows on the remaining 34-38-40 (44-48) sts. Bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold bolero double - see fig.1 - and sew side seams in the outer loops of sts.
Crochet a border round the whole opening of bolero with crochet hook size 3 mm [C] and red Alpaca as follows: * 1 sc, 4 ch, 1 dc in the first of these 4 ch, skip approx 1 cm [3/8’’] *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sl st in first sc.
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SOCKS:

HEEL DECREASES:
Row 1 (= RS): Work row until 6-7-7 (7-8) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
Row 2 (= WS): Work row until 6-7-7 (7-8) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece,
Row 3 (= RS): Work row until 5-6-6 (6-7) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
Row 4 (= WS): Work row until 5-6-6 (6-7) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece,
Continue dec like this with 1 less st before each dec until there are 8-10-10 (10-12) sts on row.

DECREASING TIP-1:
Dec as follows before rib: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after rib: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
DECREASING TIP-2:
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
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SOCK:
Cast on 44-48-48 (52-56) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm [US 1] with Fabel. Work 7-8-9 (10-11) cm [2¾”-3 1/8”-3½” (4”-4 3/8”)] rib, K2/P2. Now keep the first 18-22-22 (22-26) sts on needle for heel and slip the remaining 26-26-26 (30-30) sts on a stitch holder (= upper foot). Work 3-3½-4 (4-4½) cm [1 1/8’’-1¼’’-1½’’ (1½’’-1¾’’)] stockinette st on heel sts. Insert a marker in piece. Now dec for heel – SEE ABOVE! After heel dec pick up 8-9-10 (11-12) sts on either side of heel and slip sts from stitch holder back on needles = 50-54-56 (62-66) sts. Continue in rib on the 26-26-26 (30-30) sts on upper foot with remaining sts in stockinette st. AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of rib – SEE DECREASING TIP-1 – on every other round a total of 5-7-6 (7-9) times = 40-40-44 (48-48) sts. Continue with K over K and P over P until piece measures 7-8-9 (10-12) cm [2¾”-3 1/8”-3½” (4”-4¾”] from marker on heel (3-3-3 (4-4) cm [1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8” (1½”-1½”)] remain). Insert a marker each side with 20-20-22 (24-24) sts on upper foot and 20-20-22 (24-24) sts under foot. Continue in stockinette st on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of both markers – SEE DECREASING TIP-2: On every other round 3 times and then on every round 5-5-6 (7-7) times = 8 sts left. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.
Sock measures approx 10-11-12 (14-16) cm [4’’-4 3/8’’-4¾’’ (5½’’-6¼’’)].

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 19.05.2010
NECKLINE: Pick up 65-70-75 (80-85) sts (incl sts on stitch holder at front) round the neckline on needle size 3 mm [US 2or3] with Fabel.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= off-white Alpaca
= red Alpaca
= Fabel
= knitting direction


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 16-25) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (85)

Kirsi Malmiharju 05.04.2020 - 10:21:

Miten saan tilattua Petite Heidi -ohjeen langat 2-vuotiaan kokoon?

DROPS Design 05.05.2020 kl. 14:33:

Hei, voit tilata langat halutusta verkkokaupasta. Esim. Käsityöliike Menita, Tapion kauppa, Liljan lankakauppa ja Kippovalimo Böök, ovat liikkeitä, joilla on runsaat lankavalikoimat.

Berit Alette Anthi 07.02.2019 - 20:16:

Det er jo blått også på bildet, jeg finner det ikke i oppskriften. Syns det er akkurat det som gjør kjolen spesiell

DROPS Design 08.02.2019 kl. 15:32:

Hej Berit, det som er blåt er en del af Fabel farven 159. God fornøjelse!

Mary 08.12.2016 - 18:13:

Gorgeous! I would certainly make this if I had any littlies.

Ulla Jouttijarvi 07.12.2016 - 14:52:

Kunne godt ønske mig den i større størrelse. Har strikket den til mit barnebarn, der nu er vokset ud af den.

Marie 17.12.2014 - 10:37:

Nydelig kjole! Strikker den nå for andre gang til veslejenta mi. Strikker skjørtet i ensfarget sort for å få den mer bunad-aktig. Har fått masse skryt for denne på 17. mai og i jula =)

Bergljot Sand 25.11.2014 - 02:54:

Etter å ha studert skissene, beskrivelsen , bildene og tidligere kommentarer forstår jeg ikke hvordan boleroen skal monteres. Jeg har sydd sammen sidene, kan ikke se hvordan noen skal kunne kle den på. Det blir jo armhull, men hvordan få armene inn i dem. Skal det sted sammen fra kanten med Fabel-garn til ytterkanten?

DROPS Design 27.11.2014 kl. 16:18:

Hei Bergljot. Du syer kun sömmen sammen ved pilen. Du skal ikke lukke siderne helt. Aermegabet kommer paa de lige stykke överst paa tegningen.

Ruth 13.11.2014 - 05:07:

Je ne comprends pas quel est le nombre de mailles que je dois monter sur mon aiguille circulaire pour faire la robe nouveau-né? Partir avec 34 mailles ce n'est pas assez pour le bas de la robe . Au secours....

DROPS Design 13.11.2014 kl. 10:04:

Bonjour Ruth, les 34 m à monter correspondent à la partie jupe (= 14 cm dans le schéma) de la robe. On tricote ensuite la bordure jacquard du bas de la robe puis la bordure jacquard de la taille et l'empiècement. Bon tricot!

Jennifer 19.06.2014 - 13:03:

Would like the same in adult size !

Elizabeth Fison 09.06.2014 - 16:12:

Just finished this and found the pattern really easy to follow. It looks absolutely fabulous.Just hope it fits!

Audhild 21.02.2014 - 22:39:

Jeg strikker kjolen i str 3/4 år, har nå kommet til 60cm på skjørtet, som er størrelse 2 år, så ble det slutt på fabel tråden. Størrelse 3/4 år trenger 200 gram fabel :-( norsk i utlandet, ikke lett å få tak i her..... :-(

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