DROPS Baby / 11 / 2

Precious Emilia by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS Jacket with pattern in Muskat.

Tags: jackets, lace, v-neck,
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 - 24 months

Materials: DROPS Muskat from Garnstudio
150-200-200-250g colour no 06, pink

DROPS circular needle and straight needles size 4 mm / US 6

DROPS button, no 620, 4 pcs.

Knitting gauge: 21 sts x 28 rows on needle size 4 mm / US 6 in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Cotton
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 3.00 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Seed sts:
1st row: *K1. P1*, repeat from *-*.
2nd row: P over K, K over P.
Repeat 2nd row.

Pattern: See diagrams M.1 and M.2. The diagrams are seen from the RS.

Buttonhole: Make 4 buttonholes on right front edge from the RS. 1 buttonhole = bind off the 3rd st from the edge and cast on new st in the same place on the return row.
Make buttonholes as follows:
Size 1/3 months: 4, 8, 12 and 16 cm
Size 6/9 months: 5, 10, 14 and 18 cm
Size 12/18 months: 5, 10, 15 and 20 cm
Size 24 months: 6, 11, 17 and 22 cm

Dec tips (apply to neckline): Dec inside 4 sts in seed sts + 1 P st (= 5 edge sts) from the RS.
Dec as follows after 5 edge sts: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.
Dec as follows before 5 edge sts: K2 tog.

Back and front piece:
The jacket is knitted back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 121-137-153-169 sts (incl 4 front edge sts each side towards mid front) on needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Muskat and knit 2 rows garter sts (1st row = RS).
Knit next row as follows from the RS: 4 front edge sts in seed sts, P1, 112-128-144-160 sts of M.1 and 4 front edge sts in seed sts.
Continue pattern like this. At the same time when piece measures 4-5-5-6 cm make buttonhole on right front edge – see explanation above.
After M.1 continue in stockinette sts with 4 front edge sts in seed sts and 1 P st each side, at the same time dec 11-11-13-13 sts evenly on first row in stockinette sts = 110-126-140-156 sts.
When piece measures 16-17-19-21 cm knit next row as follows from the RS: 27-31-34-38 sts (= right front piece), bind off 4 sts for armhole, knit 48-56-64-72 sts (= back piece), bind off 4 sts for armhole, knit 27-31-34-38 sts (= left front piece).
Now finish each piece separately.

Right front piece: = 27-31-34-38 sts. Dec for armhole on every other row as follows: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2-3-4-5 times = 21-24-26-29 sts.
At the same time when piece measures 17-19-21-23 cm dec 1 st towards mid front for neckline on every other row a total of 11-12-12-13 times – see Dec tips = 10-12-14-16 sts left on shoulder.
Bind off remaining sts when piece measures 27-29-32-35 cm.

Left front piece: = 27-31-34-38 sts. Knit as right front piece, but mirrored.

Back piece: = 48-56-64-72 sts.
Bind off for armholes as described for front piece = 36-42-48-54 sts.
When piece measures 23-25-28-30 cm knit seed sts over the middle 22-24-26-28 sts with 1 P st on each side of the seed sts (seen from the RS).
After 4 rows with seed sts bind off the the middle 14-16-18-20 sts for neck.
Continue with 4 sts in seed sts and 1 P st towards neckline and dec 1 st inside these 5 sts on the next row – see Dec Tips = 10-12-14-16 sts left on each shoulder.
Bind off remaining sts when piece measures 27-29-32-35 cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 32-34-36-38 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 with Muskat and knit M.2.
After M.2 finish the sleeve in stockinette sts. At the same time when piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' inc 1 st each side on every 4-4-4-5 row a total of 8-9-10-11 times = 48-52-56-60 sts.
When piece measures 17-17-19-23 cm dec for sleeve cap each side on every other row as follows: 3 sts 2 times, 2 sts 1-1-1-2 times, 1 st 3-5-4-3 times, 2 sts 1-1-2-2 times and then 3 sts each side until piece measures 23-24-26-30 cm.
Bind off remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Set in sleeves and sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 07.07.2016
New yarn amount in size 6/9 and 24 months.

Materials: DROPS Muskat from Garnstudio
150-200-200-250g color no 06, pink


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= yo
= K2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to knit, K2 tog, psso

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 11-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (71)

Norma 10.07.2020 - 23:40:

The pictures I see of the finished back shows the sweater dipping down lower in the back. I'm at that point now....are there any suggestions on how to fix this? Thanks

DROPS Design 13.07.2020 kl. 08:46:

Dear Normal, on back piece, when piece measures 23-25-28-30 cm you work 4 rows seed stitch over the middle 22-24-26-28 sts then cast off the middle 14-16-18-20 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately (decreasing 1 more sts towards nec) and cast off the reamining sts for shoulder when piece measures 27-29-32-35 cm. Happy knitting!

Glenda 01.07.2020 - 17:19:

I do see how many yards it takes to make this sweater?

DROPS Design 02.07.2020 kl. 08:26:

Dear Glenda, you will find the amount of yarn required in each size in grams at the beg of the pattern, ie in first size for example, you need 150 g DROPS Muskat/50 g a ball = 3 balls in first size (1/3 months). See also our FAQ here. Happy knitting!

Norma 23.06.2020 - 01:11:

Can you write out the charts? I find charts very confusing. Thanks

DROPS Design 23.06.2020 kl. 09:11:

Dear Normal, you will find here how to read knitting diagrams, this should help you to work them. Happy knitting!

Tayyiba Irfan 05.06.2020 - 09:28:

Good morning. I just saw this pattern and I like the design, but unfortunately I cannot follow a written pattern, do you have a video for this patter?

DROPS Design 05.06.2020 kl. 10:11:

Bom dia, Veja no fundo da página da receita os vídeos que ensinam várias técnicas e pontos usados para este casaco, Bons tricôs!

Beverley 02.06.2020 - 22:21:

After Back and front piece and starting on Right Front 27 (smallest size) Dec for armhole on every other row........I really done understand what I need to do so a more detailed explanation would help. Also what happened to the moss stitch for the band, I see it in the picture but no mention on the instructions. Help

DROPS Design 03.06.2020 kl. 07:03:

Dear Beverly, you continue working the front band sts as before and remember buttonholes - you will then cast off at the beg of row from armhole: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times; at the same time, when piece measures 17 cm decrease for neck (see Dec tips) 1 stitch on every row from RS a total of 11 times = 27 sts - 6 sts cast off for armhole - 11 sts decreased for neck = 10 sts remain. Hope this helps, happy knitting!

Sylvia 19.05.2020 - 17:25:

I can't knit with round needles and can use only regular ones, do you have any advice if to change something in the pattern or do it a different way?

DROPS Design 20.05.2020 kl. 07:01:

Dear Sylvia, this pattern is here entirely worked back and forth ; this means you can use straight needles or circular needle - Read more here. Happy knitting!

Chantal Dumont 12.05.2020 - 18:29:

Bonjour Nous voyons un carré avec un X dans le diagramme M1 et je ne vois pas la signification dans la légende des symboles ? J’aurais aussi une deuxième question : Le rang suivant celui où on a fait une jeté et qu’il y a un carré avec un X est ce que je tricote la jetée à l’endroit où a l’envers ? Merci pour le suivi :)

DROPS Design 13.05.2020 kl. 08:11:

Bonjour Mme Dumont, la croix correspond au 2ème symbole = autrement dit, 1 maille jersey envers (= tricotée à l'envers sur l'endroit et à l'endroit sur l'envers). Tous les rangs figurent dans les diagrammes, ainsi, après les rangs avec des jetés, toutes les mailles se tricotent à l'envers sur l'envers, y compris les jetés. Bon tricot!

Karin 30.04.2020 - 11:43:

Hi, ich bin etwas verwirtt mit dem anfang. Ich beginne ohne randmasche mit dem erlmuster, also re,li,re,li, dann li in den hinreihen. Was bedeuted im muster habe ich in der hinreihe 3 li hintereinander?

DROPS Design 30.04.2020 kl. 12:11:

Liebe Karin, Perlmuster stricken Sie über 4 Maschen so: re, li, re, li (Hinreihe), bei den Rückreihen stricken Sie diese maschen: re, li, re, li (= li über re und re über li). Die 1 Masche li (= 5.Masche der Hinreihen) wird rechts bei den Rückreihen gestrickt, so wird das Muster symetrisch sein. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sue 06.04.2020 - 10:14:

On the sleeves : starting my dec for the cap.... what is the best way to dec 3 sts 2 times? K4 tog and s1 k3 tog pesso?

DROPS Design 07.04.2020 kl. 07:55:

Hi Sue, You cast off when for the sleeve cap and continue working back and forth. Happy knitting!

Christiane Friedrich 20.03.2020 - 09:04:

Hallo, gibt es für die rosa Babyjacke Emilia auch eine Anleitung für eine passende Mütze? \r\nMit der angegebenen Baumwolle Muskat wird die Jacke übrigens viel größer als angegeben, obwohl ich nicht übermäßig locker stricke. 🤔\r\nStricke jetzt die kleinste Variante für ein 7 Monate altes Baby. Ein sehr schönes Muster.👍\r\nVielen Dank und liebe Grüße \r\nChris Friedrich

DROPS Design 20.03.2020 kl. 10:00:

Liebe Frau Friedrich, passende Mütze haben wir nicht, aber sicher können Sie was anpassen mit unseren Hauben oder Mützen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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