Seaside Bird by DROPS Design
DROPS top with lace pattern in ”Paris”
Finished measurements:
Bust: 82-94-106-118 cm / 32 1/4"-37"-41 3/4"-46½"
Full length: 51-54-58-59 cm / 20"-21 1/4"-22 3/4"-23 1/4"
Materials: DROPS Paris from Garnstudio
300-350-400-450 g color no 16, white
DROPS circular needles size 5 mm / US 8 – or the needle size needed to obtain correct knitting gauge.
Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!
|
DROPS Paris 100% Cotton |
from 1.80 $ /50g | |||||||||
|
|||||||||||
|
DROPS Needles & Hooks | ||||||||||
You might also like...
NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Pattern: See diagram M.1 to M.5. Pattern is showing all rows in pattern seen from RS.
Garter st: (in the round on needle): 1st round: K and 2nd round: P
Garter st (back and forth on row): Knit all rows.
Decreasing tips (applies to armhole):
All dec from RS. Dec for armhole within 4 sts garter st as follows:
Before 4 sts garter st: K2 tog
After 4 sts garter st: Slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.
Increasing tips (applies to wide shoulders):
All inc from RS. Inc for wide shoulders within 4 garter sts on each side by yo on needle. On next row P yo into back of st to avoid hole.
Incorporate new sts into pattern as you go.
____________________________________________________________
Back and front pieces:
Work piece in the round.
Cast on 140-160-180-200 sts loosely with Paris. Insert 1 marker at start of round.
K1 round, P1 round. Continuing work diagram M.1.
When M.1 is worked once in height continue with M.2.
When M.2 is worked once in height work 6 sts stockinette st on next round to shift round start.
Insert 1 marker (= mid side). Also insert 1 marker after 70-80-90-100 sts (= mid opposite side).
Now work M.3. Patterns should now appear on top of each other as shown in diagram. Work M.3 4-4-5-5 times in total in height.
Continuing K1 round, P1 round.
Piece now measures approx 27-27-31-31 cm / 10½"-10½"-12 1/4"-12 1/4".
Insert 2 new markers into piece, 1 marker after 35-40-45-50 sts (= mid front piece) and 1 marker after 105-120-135-150 sts (= mid back).
Continuing, measure piece from here.
K1 round. Continuing work M.4.
When piece measures approx 2-3-3-3 cm / 3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" from marker, continue with M.4, but work 8 sts on each side of marker mid front as follows: M.5 (= 3 sts), 10 sts garter sts (marker is placed between these sts), M.5 (= 3 sts).
Read next section before continuing.
At the same time when piece measures 4-5-4-4 cm / 1½"-2"-1½"-1½" from marker also work 12 sts on each side in garter st (6 sts on each side of markers in sides).
At the same time when piece measures 4-5-5-5 cm / 1½"-2"-2"-2" from markers bind off middle 2 sts from neck side = 138-158-178-198 sts (continuing, work piece back and forth from mid front).
Continue with M.5 and 4 sts garter sts on each side of bind off sts, work remaining sts as before. Continue like this until piece measures 6-7-6-6 cm / 2 3/8"-2 3/4"-2 3/8"-2 3/8".
Now bind off 4 sts on each side of armhole = 130-150-170-190 sts.
Work front and back pieces separately.
Back piece:
= 66-76-86-96 sts. Continue in M.4. At the same time dec 1 sts for armhole on every other row – read Decreasing tips: 5-7-8-10 times = 56-62-70-76 sts.
Then inc 1 sts for shoulder on each side on every other row – read Increasing tips – 6-6-4-3 times = 68-74-78-82 sts.
When piece measures 22-25-25-26 cm / 8 3/4"-9 3/4"-9 3/4"-10 1/4" from marker mid back bind off middle 32-36-36-38 sts for neck.
Continuing bind off 1 sts on next row at neckline = 17-18-20-21 sts left on each shoulder. Work until piece measures approx 23-26-26-27 cm / 9"-10 1/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"from marker mid back. K4 rows garter sts before binding off loosely.
Left front piece:
= 32-37-42-47 sts. Continue with M.4 but 7 sts from mid front continues as before (M.5 and 4 sts garter st). At the same time dec for armhole and inc for wide shoulder like back piece.
At the same time when piece measures 13-15-15-15 cm / 5 1/8"-6"-6"-6" from marker mid front slip 6-8-8-9 m at mid front onto stitch holder. Continuing, bind off for neck on every other row 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 6 times = 17-18-20-21 m left on needle for shoulder.
Work until piece measures approx 23-26-26-27 cm / 9"-10 1/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8" from marker mid front. K 4 rows garter st before binding off loosely.
Right front piece:
Work like left front piece but reversed.
Assembly:
Sew shoulder seams.
Neckline:
Pick up approx 85 to 102 sts (incl sts from stitch holder) around neckline on needle size 5 mm / US 8. K8 rows garter sts back and forth from mid front.
Bind off loosely.
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
|
= K from RS, P from WS |
|
= P from RS |
|
= yo |
|
= slip 1 st as if to knit, K2 tog, psso |
|
= K2 tog |
|
= P2 tog (from RS) |
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 101-29) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (29)
Hochet Valérie
05.09.2019 - 22:07:
Bonjour, en taille M, à 5 cm à partir du marqueur, il y a plusieurs choses à faire ; dont 2 m en moins pou l'encolure (180m-2m= 178 m) ok. Puis continuer avec M5 et mjusqu'à 7cm : puis rabattre 4m de chaque côté" pour emmanchure = 140m. je ne comprends pas comment on passe de 178 m à 140 m. Merci pour vos explications. Cordialement.
DROPS Design
06.09.2019 kl. 08:03:
Franca
06.07.2018 - 18:46:
Salve, sono arrivata a lavorare il diagramma M4 ma il lavoro è diverso da quello in foto, i buchini sono più ravvicinati mentre in foto sono più distanti. inoltre facendo anche il diagramma M5 alcuni buchini sono così vicini da accavallarsi e l'effetto è bruttino. potreste darmi indicazioni? grazie
DROPS Design
06.07.2018 kl. 21:17:
Christelle
13.05.2018 - 19:32:
Bjr je reviens vers vous car je ne réussis vraiment pas à décaler pour M3 en tricotant en aller-retour Pourriez-vous m'indiquer la démarche à suivre J'ai acheté la laine sur ce site D'avance merci pour votre aide
DROPS Design
14.05.2018 kl. 11:07:
Christelle
10.05.2018 - 12:23:
Bjr je tricote ce modèle en aller-retour car je ne sais pas tricoter avec des aiguilles circulaires J'ai tricoté 6 m en jersey end puis j'ai tricoté M3 que je ne peux finir puisqu'il manque 6 m. Dois-je donc tricoter ... 1 jeté 1 end 1 jeté 3 end et finir par 1 m glissée ? Merci de votre réponse
DROPS Design
11.05.2018 kl. 07:41:
Michelle B
22.05.2017 - 00:58:
After working M.2 is the instructions telling me to do an entire row in stockinette? Or am I supposed to do 6 stockinette stitches insert a marker then start with M.3 (within this place then second marker). Thanks!
DROPS Design
22.05.2017 kl. 09:51:
Vignau Bègue
25.04.2016 - 17:08:
Bonjour, pouvez vous me préciser de quel marqueur on parle, car nous venons juste de commencer l'encolure devant : en même temps, à 4-5-4-4 cm de hauteur du marqueur, tricoter 12 m de chaque côté au point mousse (=6 m de chaque côté des marqueur merci beaucoup
DROPS Design
25.04.2016 kl. 17:35:
Vignau Bègue
21.04.2016 - 14:11:
Bonjour, pouvez vous me préciser de quel marqueur on parle, car nous venons juste de commencer l'encolure devant : en même temps, à 4-5-4-4 cm de hauteur du marqueur, tricoter 12 m de chaque côté au point mousse (=6 m de chaque côté des marqueur merci beaucoup
DROPS Design
21.04.2016 kl. 15:52:
Vignau-Bégué
11.04.2016 - 13:20:
Bonjour, Qu'entendez-vous par monter vos mailles sur les 2 extrémités des aiguilles Merci !!!
DROPS Design
11.04.2016 kl. 14:27:
Angela Kuhl
24.02.2016 - 19:49:
Nach mehrmaligen auftrennen der Reihen habe ich jetzt keine Lust mehr .M3 klappt einfach nicht.Schade das Modell hätte mir gut gefallen! Vielen Dank für die Hilfe ich weiß auch nicht an was es liegt.
DROPS Design
10.03.2016 kl. 08:16:
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 262 catalogs and 9726 patterns - 9242 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Bonjour, J'ai fait ce modèle en Bomull-Lin 03 (catégorie C comme Paris ). Je suis très contente du résultat :-)