DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.65$. Read more.

Hidden Forest Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Fabel and DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked top down with raglan and V-neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 243-25
DROPS Design: Pattern fa-535
Yarn group A + C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-300-300-350-350 g color 650, forest
And use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
175-175-200-225-225-250 g color 27, rainforest dew

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 511: 4-4-5-5-5-5 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm = 32” circular needle in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
15 stitches in width and 18 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.65$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of 5 knitted stitches, in each transition between the body and sleeves; the middle stitch is the marker-stitch (8 increased stitches on the row). Increase by making 1 yarn over, which is purled twisted on the next row to avoid a hole. Work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase by making 1 yarn over, which is worked twisted on the next row to avoid a hole.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 2. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked 1 cm = 3/8" after the last increase for the V-neck. The other 3-3-4-4-4-4 buttonholes are then worked with approx. 8-9-7-7-7-7 cm = 3 1/8"-3 1/2"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4" between each one.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Start 3 stitches before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth and top down.
Start by working 2 loose bands. Stitches are cast on between the bands for the shoulders and back. The yoke is worked back and forth with circular needle, increasing stitches for raglan and V-neck. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves, the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round, with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

RIGHT BAND (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 7 stitches with circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9, 1 strand DROPS Fabel and 1 strand DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk (2 strands).
Work GARTER STITCH – read description above, back and forth until the band measures 17-18-18-18-19-20 cm = 6 3/4"-7"-7"-7"-7 1/2"-8", finishing after a row from the wrong side. Lay the piece to one side.

LEFT BAND:
Cast on 7 stitches with circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9, 1 strand DROPS Fabel and 1 strand DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk (2 strands).
Work garter stitch until the band measures 17-18-18-18-19-20 cm = 6 3/4"-7"-7"-7"-7 1/2"-8", finishing after a row from the right side, do not cut the strand.
Cast on 54-56-56-58-60-62 stitches at the end of the row, then, from the right side, knit the 7 stitches on the right band = 68-70-70-72-74-76 stitches. Work 1 row from the wrong side, working garter stitch over the bands and purling the 54-56-56-58-60-62 new stitches.

Insert 4 markers without working the stitches; they are used when increasing for RAGLAN – read description above:

Count 9 stitches, insert marker-1 in the next stitch, count 14 stitches, insert marker-2 in the next stitch, count 18-20-20-22-24-26 stitches, insert marker-3 in the next stitch, count 14 stitches, insert marker-4 in the next stitch, there are 9 stitches left on the row.

YOKE:
Start mid-front from the right side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE.
Read INCREASE TIP – applies to both the V-neck and raglan.
Work as follows: 7 band stitches in garter stitch, increase for V-neck, knit 2, increase for raglan, knit 3 (marker in the first of these stitches), increase for raglan, work to 2 stitches before the next marker, increase for raglan, knit 5 (marker in the middle of these stitches), increase for raglan, work to 2 stitches before the next marker, increase for raglan, knit 5 (marker in the middle of these stitches), increase for raglan, work to 2 stitches before the next marker, increase for raglan, knit 3 (marker in the last of these stitches), increase for raglan, knit 2, increase for V-neck, 7 band stitches in garter stitch (10 increased stitches = 78-80-80-82-84-86 stitches).
ROW 2: Purl (band stitches in garter stitch)
ROW 3: 7 band stitches in garter stitch, knit 3, increase for raglan, knit 4 (marker in the second of these stitches), increase for raglan, work to 2 stitches before the next marker, increase for raglan, knit 5 (marker in the middle of these stitches), increase for raglan, work to 2 stitches before the next marker, increase for raglan, knit 5 (marker in the middle of these stitches), increase for raglan, work to 2 stitches before the next marker, increase for raglan, knit 4 (marker in the third of these stitches), increase for raglan, knit 3, 7 band stitches in garter stitch (= 8 stitches increased = 86-88-88-90-92-94 stitches).
ROW 4: Purl (band stitches in garter stitch).

Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch, band stitches in garter stitch and increasing for V-NECK and RAGLAN simultaneously as described below. Read both sections before continuing.

V-NECK:
Increase for V-neck – remember INCREASE TIP, inside the bands every 4th row a total of 0-2-2-3-4-5 times, then every 6th row 7-6-6-6-6-6 times (including the increases already worked). To increase make a yarn over; on next row work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.
1 cm = 3/8" after the last increase, begin to work the BUTTONHOLES – read description above.

RAGLAN:
Increase on each side of 5 knitted stitches in each transition between the body and sleeves on each row from the right side. Increase 8 stitches for raglan 5-6-7-10-9-7 ganger (including the increases already worked).

Continue to increase for raglan but every 2nd increase is only on the front and back pieces (4 increased stitches). I.e., increase on the front and back pieces every 2nd row (every row from the right side) and on the sleeves every 4th row (every 2nd row from the right side). Increase a total of 18-18-20-18-22-26 times on the front and back pieces (9-9-10-9-11-13 times on the sleeves).

You have now increased a total of 23-24-27-28-31-33 times on the front and back pieces and 14-15-17-19-20-20 times on the sleeves.

After the last increase there are 230-242-262-278-298-310 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and band stitches in garter stitch until the piece measures 26-27-28-31-35-38 cm = 10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11"-12 1/4"-13 3/4"-15", measured from the cast-on edge, mid-back.

Now divide for the body and sleeves:
Work the first 40-42-45-47-51-54 stitches (front piece), place the next 42-44-48-52-54-54 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-12-12-14-16-18 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 66-70-76-80-88-94 stitches (back piece), place the next 42-44-48-52-54-54 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-12-12-14-16-18 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the last 40-42-45-47-51-54 stitches (front piece).
The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
= 166-178-190-202-222-238 stitches. Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and band stitches in garter stitch for a further 21-22-23-22-20-19 cm = 8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-8 3/4"-8"-7 1/2". Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 38-42-46-50-54-58 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands) = 204-220-236-252-276-296 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7. Work as follows from the wrong side: 7 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 9 stitches left, purl 2 and 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 8 cm = 3 1/8". Bind off. The jacket measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm = 23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2" from the shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Place the 42-44-48-52-54-54 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5.5 MM = US 9 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the new stitches cast on under the sleeve = 52-56-60-66-70-72 stitches. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve and allow it to follow your work onwards; it is used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start at the marker-thread and work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 4 cm = 1 1/2", decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 6½-5-4-2½-2-1½ cm = 2 1/2"-2"-1 1/2"-1"-3/4"-1/2" a total of 5-6-7-10-11-11 times = 42-44-46-46-48-50 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 35-35-34-31-28-25 cm = 13 3/4"-13 3/4"-13 3/8"-12 1/4"-11"-9 3/4" from the division. Knit 1 round and increase 6-4-6-6-8-6 stitches evenly spaced = 48-48-52-52-56-56 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 MM = US 7 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 6 cm = 2 3/8". Bind off. The sleeve measures approx. 41-41-40-37-34-31 cm = 16 1/8"-16 1/8"-15 3/4"-14 1/2"-13 3/8"-12 1/4" from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band. Sew the loose bands together mid-back then sew the bands to the neckline.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (3)

country flag Joasia wrote:

Które oczka na reglan to "oczka na przody i tył", a które to "oczka na rękawy"?

15.12.2023 - 14:11

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Joasiu, zobacz kurs TUTAJ i video TUTAJ. W razie dalszych pytań pisz. Pozdrawiamy!

18.12.2023 - 08:13

country flag Sandrine wrote:

Bonjour,\r\nJe rencontre un probleme de comptage de maille lors de la mise en place des marqueurs( taille M). Si je suis ce qu\'il y a d\'écrit 9m+14m+20m+14m+9m=66m. Il me reste 4 m.... pourriez vous m\'aider? \r\nPassez une bonne journée

25.11.2023 - 03:59

country flag Kathi S wrote:

Would be a great everyday cardi

03.08.2023 - 19:15