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Sea Bird Top by DROPS Design

Knitted top in DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted bottom up, with moss stitch and stripes. Size: S - XXXL

Keywords: boat neck, bottom up, seed st, sleeveless, stripes, top

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DROPS 230-27
DROPS design: Pattern w-872
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 82-92-100-108-122-132 cm = 32 1/4"-36 1/4"-39 3/8"-42 1/2"-48"-52"
Full length: 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-250-300-350-400-450 g color 17, off white
150-150-150-200-200-200 g color 30, jeans blue

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length: 80 cm = 32”

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in moss stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton 		from 1.60 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.85 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.00$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

STRIPES:
Work stripes in color jeans blue and color off white as follows: Work 8-8½-9½-9½-10-10½ cm = 3 1/8"-3 1/4"-3 5/9"-3 5/9"-4"-4 1/8" with color off white, work 2½ cm = 1” with color jeans blue. Work until 4 stripes have been worked in total with color jeans blue. Work the rest of the piece in the color off white.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, bottom up in parts, and sewn together when finished.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 73-83-89-95-107-117 stitches on circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 with color off white in DROPS Paris.
Work as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, A.1 until 2 stitches remain, work first stitch in A.1, 1 stitch in garter stitch. Work STRIPES– read explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Work until piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm = 12 1/4"-12 1/2"-13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4" from cast-on edge. Now bind off stitches for armhole at the beginning of every row in each side as follows: Bind off 4-5-6-7-10-12 stitches 1 time, and 1 stitch 3-6-7-8-10-12 times = 59-61-63-65-67-69 stitches. Continue with A.1 and stripes as before.
Work until piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm = 18 1/2"-19 1/4"-20"-21"-21 5/8"-22 1/2" from cast-on edge.
On next row from right side cast stitches off for neck as follows:
Work over the first 17-17-17-18-18-19 stitches as before and slip them on a thread, bind off the next 25-27-29-29-31-31 stitches for neck, work over the last 17-17-17-18-18-19 stitches as before. Then work each shoulder separately.

LEFT SHOULDER:
= 17-17-17-18-18-19 stitches. Begin from wrong side, and bind off stitches for neck at the beginning of every row from neck as follows: Bind off 1 stitch 3 times = 14-14-14-15-15-16 stitches. Work until piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8" from cast-on edge. Bind off by knitting.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
Slip the 17-17-17-18-18-19 stitches from thread back on needle. Begin from wrong side, and bind off stitches for neck at the beginning of every row from neck as follows: Bind off 1 stitch 3 times = 14-14-14-15-15-16 stitches. Work until piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8" from cast-on edge. Bind off by knitting.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on the same number of stitches, and work the same way as back piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Assemble using color off white. Sew the shoulder seams. Sew side seams in outer loop of edge stitch and leave 5 cm = 2" at the vent at the bottom.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 230-27) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Sandra wrote:

Ich habe die Seiten wie krausrechts gestr. (nach dem Video) zusammen gestrickt. Von der Innenseite (auf links gedreht, die Stelle der Naht liegt, wenn ich es wieder auf rechts drehe so eingesackt und Seiten beulen nach außen. Hätte ich es mit einer anderen Technik zusammennähen sollen?

30.03.2023 - 14:27

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sandra, Sie können das Top anfeuchten, die Nähte in Form ziehen, flachdrücken und liegend trocknen lassen, damit sollte sich die Ausbeulung beheben lassen. Viel Spaß mit Ihrem Top!

05.04.2023 kl. 10:40

country flag Sandra wrote:

Hallo, wird die Schulter am Hals im Muster gestrickt oder Krausrechts? Steht nicht in der Anleitung Danke und Grüße

30.03.2023 - 10:56

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sandra, Sie stricken die Schultern wie zuvor weiter, d.h. im Muster. Gutes Gelingen weiterhin!

05.04.2023 kl. 10:42

country flag Nicola ELLICOTT wrote:

Where is diagram A1, it isn’t showing on the website page!

27.03.2023 - 18:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nicola, diagram A.1 is right beside the schematic drawing, on its left side. I is only two stitch wide and two stitch high. Happy Crafting!

28.03.2023 kl. 07:30

country flag Sandra wrote:

Re Schulter Rückenteil: Kette ich 1 Masche in der Hin oder Rückreihe ab? Bei der Li Schulter Rückenteil habe ich die Rückrunde gestrickt und in der Hinrunde am Hals abgekettet oder muss ich das jetzt andersrum machen - in der Rückrunde am Hals abketten

25.03.2023 - 08:54

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sandra, für die Rechte Schulter Rückenteil wird man für den Hals am Anfang einer Rück-Reihe (am Anfang der Reihe von Hals bis Schulter) abketten - beim Linken Schulter Rückenteil soll man für den Hals am Anfang einer Hin-Reihe abketten (am Anfang der Reihe vom Hals bis Schulter). Aber beim Vorderteil ketten Sie für den Hals am Anfang einer Hin-Reihe (rechte Schulter) / Rückreihe (linke Schulter). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

27.03.2023 kl. 09:05

country flag Sandra wrote:

Guten Morgen, ist der Maschenanschlag schon die Hinreihe oder Zählt der Anschlag nicht mit? Bin Anfänger und weiß nicht ob der Maschenanschlag schon mitzählt

20.03.2023 - 07:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sandra, Anschlagskante zählt nicht als Reihe, wenn die Maschen angeschlagen sind, dann stricken Sie die erste Hinreihe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.03.2023 kl. 09:31

country flag Sandra wrote:

Stricke ich das Musterstück zum abmessen in dem Muster re/li? oder einfach nur hin re und rück li?

20.03.2023 - 07:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sandra, ich verstehe Ihre Frage leider nicht, könnten Sie bitte mehr beschreiben, was Sie hier meinen? Danke im voraus für Ihr Verständnis.

20.03.2023 kl. 09:31

country flag Sandra wrote:

Schulter beginnen: es wird die li Schulter zuerst angezeit, wenn ich die Arbeit aufteile, ist es egal welche Schulter ich zuerst beginne? Da ich ja den Faden dann an der re Schulter habe wenn ich in einer Hinrunde beginne. In der Anleitung steht zuerst die li Schulter.

14.03.2023 - 08:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sandra, beim Rückenteil werden Sie zuerst den linke Schulter stricken: bei einer Hinreihe stricken Sie die Maschen vom rechten Schulter, und legen Sie sie still, dann ketten Sie die Maschen für den Halsausschnitt ab, und stricken Sie die Maschen vom linken Schulter weiter. Beim Vorderteil stricken Sie zuerst die Maschen vom rechten Schulter und legen Sie sie still, ketten Sie die Maschen für den Hals ab und stricken Sie die Maschen vom rechten Schulter weiter. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.03.2023 kl. 10:09

country flag Sandra wrote:

Hallo, wenn ich in der Hinreihe am Anfang 4 Ma abgekettet habe und dann auf der linken Seite auch, habe ich eine Masche noch auf der Nadel schneide ich den Faden dann ab? Oder Kette ich die 4 MA auf der RR ab? Randmasche immer noch Kraus re oder re auf der rechten seite und li auf der linken Seite

13.03.2023 - 11:05

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sandra, für die Armauschnitte soll man nur am Anfang der Reihen abketten, dh am Anfang der nächsten 2 Reihen (= Hin- + Rückreihe) die ersten 4 Maschen abketten , dann am Anfang der nächsten 6 Reihen 1 Masche abketten (1 Masche 3 Mal auf beiden Seite). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.03.2023 kl. 11:22

country flag Sandra wrote:

Stricken, bis die Arbeit eine Länge von 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm ab dem Anschlagrand hat. gesamtlänge = 50 cm Anschlag bis unter Arm = 31 cm Im Bild 50 dann 18 cm ist aber 32 cm?

09.03.2023 - 10:17

country flag Sandra wrote:

Wie folgt stricken: 1 Rand-Masche KRAUS RECHTS – siehe oben, A.1 bis noch 2 Maschen übrig sind, die erste Masche von A.1 und 1 Rand-Masche kraus rechts. Stricke ich die erste re und die letzte? was bedeutet , bis 2 Maschen übrig sind. Warum steht oben Krausippe wenn Perlmuster? Werden die 4 Ma in der Hinreihe hintereinander abgekettet. dann eine Rückreihe und 3 MA wieder hintereinander?

09.03.2023 - 09:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sandra, damit das (gerade Maschenanzahl) Muster über die (ungerade) Maschenanzahl passt soll man die vorletzte der Reihe wie die 1. Masche vom Diagram (bei den Hinreihen) stricken, dh so: 1 Randmasche, die 2 Maschen in A.1 wierdholen bis 2 Maschen übrig auf der linken Nadel sind, die nächste Masche wie die 1. Masche in A.1 stricken und die letzte Masche als Randmasche stricken. Bei den Rückreihen stricken Sie zuerst die 1. Masche A.1 (= 1 M rechts bei der Hinreihe) dann wiederholen Sie A.1 (links nach rechts lesen) zwischen den Randmaschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.03.2023 kl. 12:05

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