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  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Cardigans
  4. DROPS
  5. 232
  6. 14

Dream in Rose Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Air. The piece is worked bottom up with stripes and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

Keywords: 3/4 sleeves, bottom up, jacket, round neck, sewn in sleeves, stocking stitch, stripes, wide sleeves

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DROPS 232-14
DROPS Design: Pattern ai-389
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 98-108-118-128-138-156 cm = 38 1/2"-42 1/2"-46 1/2"-50 3/8"-54 1/4"-61 3/8"
Full length: 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150-150-150-200-200 g color 02, wheat
200-200-250-250-300-300 g color 33, pink sand

If you want to work the piece in one color you will need:
300-350-350-400-450-500 g

DROPS BUTTONS NO 602: 5-5-5-6-6-6 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool 		from 6.45 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 6.45 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 6.45 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.15$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP (sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (the marker sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.


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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The back and front pieces are worked separately, back and forth and bottom up. The bands are worked on the front pieces. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle. The neck is worked to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 103-113-123-133-145-161 stitches with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and DROPS Air in color wheat. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2", change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8. Work 1 row of stockinette stitch where you decrease 17-19-21-23-25-27 stitches evenly spaced = 86-94-102-110-120-134 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm = 8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9 1/2"-9 3/4", work 4 rows with color pink sand, 4 rows with color wheat, then finish the piece with color pink sand. When the piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm = 12 1/4"-12 1/2"-13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4" bind off 5-7-9-10-12-17 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 76-80-84-90-96-100 stitches. When the piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22", bind off the middle 26-28-30-32-34-36 stitches for the neck and finish each shoulder separately. Bind off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 24-25-26-28-30-31 stitches on the shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8". Work the other shoulder in the same way.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 54-58-62-68-74-82 stitches with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and DROPS Air in color wheat. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2", change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8. Work 1 row of stockinette stitch where you decrease 10-10-10-12-13-14 stitches evenly spaced = 44-48-52-56-61-68 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm = 8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9 1/2"-9 3/4", work 4 rows with color pink sand, 4 rows with color wheat, then finish the piece with color pink sand. When the piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm = 12 1/4"-12 1/2"-13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4" bind off 5-7-9-10-12-17 stitches at the beginning of the next row from the right side for the armhole = 39-41-43-46-49-51 stitches. When the piece measures 44-46-47-49-50-52 cm = 17 1/4"-18"-18 1/2"-19 1/4"-19 3/4"-20 1/2", place the first 9-10-11-12-13-14 stitches towards mid-front on a thread for the neck (work them first) and finish each shoulder separately. On each row from the right side decrease as follows: Work until there are 4 stitches left, knit 2 together, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Decrease like this a total of 6 times = 24-25-26-28-30-31 stitches on the shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8".

LEFT BAND:
Knit up from the right side 90 to 106 stitches with color pink sand and circular needle size 4 MM = US 6, inside the 1 edge stitch and down the left front piece (number of stitches should be divisible by 2). Work as follows from the bottom and wrong side: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Bind off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 54-58-62-68-74-82 stitches with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and color wheat. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2", change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8. Work 1 row of stockinette stitch where you decrease 10-10-10-12-13-14 stitches evenly spaced = 44-48-52-56-61-68 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm = 8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9 1/2"-9 3/4", work 4 rows with color pink sand, 4 rows with color wheat, then finish the piece with color pink sand. When the piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm = 12 1/4"-12 1/2"-13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4" bind off 5-7-9-10-12-17 stitches at the beginning of the next row from the wrong side for the armhole = 39-41-43-46-49-51 stitches. When the piece measures 44-46-47-49-50-52 cm = 17 1/4"-18"-18 1/2"-19 1/4"-19 3/4"-20 1/2", place the first 9-10-11-12-13-14 stitches towards mid-front on a thread for the neck (work them first) and finish each shoulder separately. On each row from the right side decrease as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, work to the end of the row. Decrease like this a total of 6 times = 24-25-26-28-30-31 stitches on the shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8".

RIGHT BAND:
Knit up from the right side 90 to 106 stitches with color pink sand and circular needle size 4 MM = US 6, inside the 1 edge stitch and up the right front piece (number of stitches should be divisible by 2). Work as follows from the top and wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 1 and 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 2 cm = 3/4". Now work 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes evenly along the band. The bottom buttonhole is positioned 6 cm = 2 3/8" up from the bottom edge and the top buttonhole just below the top edge. Work the buttonholes by making 1 yarn over and working 2 stitches together. Continue the rib for another 2 cm = 3/4", then bind off.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 60-64-68-70-72-74 stitches with short circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and color pink sand. Knit 1 round then work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Change to short circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and continue with stockinette stitch. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round = mid-under sleeve. When the sleeve measures 6 cm = 2 3/8", increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 10-10-10-9-4-2 cm = 4"-4"-4"-3 1/2"-1 1/2"-3/4" a total of 2-2-2-2-3-4 times = 64-68-72-74-78-82 stitches. When the sleeve measures 22-21-20-18-16-13 cm = 8 3/4"-8 1/4"-8"-7"-6 1/4"-5 1/8", work the sleeve cap back and forth from mid-under the sleeve for 3-4-5-6-7-10 cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/2"-2"-2 3/8"-2 3/4"-4". Bind off. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the sleeve cap to the armhole, then the split to the bottom of the armhole – see sketch. Sew the side seams.

NECK:
Knit up 77 to 99 stitches around the neck, with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and color pink sand (including over the bands and the stitches from the threads); the number of stitches should be divisible by 2 + 1. Work as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl 1, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left, work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work this rib back and forth for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Loosely bind off with knit.

ASSEMBLY-2:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = Sew sleeve cap to armhole: a to A and b to B
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 232-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Mona Gumabon wrote:

Hej! Jag stickar Drops 232-14 modell si-389 i garnet Air. Masktätheten 17 maskor på 10 cm. I storlek M är maskantalet för bak- plus de två framstyckena 229 maskor. Enligt skissen på mönstret skall omkretsen nertill på koftan bli 108 cm, men lägger man upp rätt antal maskor får man en omkrets på 134 cm. Jag har stickat 5 cm och mätt, alldeles för stort! Bara att repa upp. Hur har de tänkt i detta mönster? Hur gör jag för att få rätt storlek? Hälsningar Mona

09.09.2023 - 12:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Mona. Strikkefastheten som er oppgitt er på pinne 5 og i glattstrikk. Man legger opp på pinne 4 og strikker en vrangbord (1 rett / 1 vrang) på 4 cm. Vrangborden trekker seg godt sammen. Når du bytter til pinne 5 og skal strikke glattstrikk felles det også 19 masker på bakstykket og 10 masker på hvert forstykke = 190 masker = ca 108 cm (omkretsen nertil), slik målskissen viser. mvh DROPS Design

18.09.2023 kl. 09:56

country flag Lilian wrote:

Er blevet så glad for at strikke i Drops Air. Har I en børneopskrift str 10 år, svarende til cardigan 232-14?\r\nPå forhånd tak\r\nMVH Lilian

06.09.2023 - 09:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lillian, her har du cardigans som passer til DROPS Air: Cardigans - DROPS Air

08.09.2023 kl. 15:35

country flag Ulrike wrote:

Hallo, ich hätte gerne gewusst wie man die 9 stillgelegten Maschen an den Vorderteilen arbeitet und wobei? Danke.

07.09.2022 - 17:53

country flag Vasiliki Orphanou wrote:

Hello, Is there "easy" culculated in the measurements given in the Diagramm of this pattern. Sorry for this quear question, but I don' t know how to manage with the measurements... Thank you very much for the beautiful patterns you present us.

07.08.2022 - 18:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Vasiliki, the measurements given in the schematic at the end are for the garment. Taking into account your own measurements and the garment measurements, depending on the ease you desire you can work one size or another. You can read how to understand the measurements schematic here: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=24&cid=19 Happy knitting!

07.08.2022 kl. 23:41

country flag Solveig Andersson wrote:

Jag stickar ärmen och stickar ärmkullen fram och tillbaka och får då ett sprund på ca 4 cm, men sprundet tycker jag blir underst på ärmen inte överst som det står. Mitt uppe på axeln kallar jag överst. Sedan ser jag också hur man monterar, men där kallar man igen (sprundet överst på ärmen), hur skall jag tolka detta ?

04.07.2022 - 11:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Solveig, jo sprundet är under ärmen (som på skitsen) men högst upp :)

05.07.2022 kl. 08:58

country flag Claudia wrote:

Riscontro alcuni errori nella versione italiana : nel suggerimento per le DIMINUZIONI, invece sono aumenti Lavorare fino a 4 maglie dalla fine invece sono solo 3 ( 2 insieme e poi la maglia di vivagno) Nella manica lavorare l'arrotondamento in piano per lo scalfo senza specificarlo, ovviamente se si sa lavorare ci si arriva ma un principiante può avere problemi. Spero di essere stata utile, grazie di tutto. Claudia

09.05.2022 - 08:32

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Claudia, abbiamo corretto la traduzione italiana. Grazie per la segnalazione. Buon lavoro!

09.05.2022 kl. 18:23

country flag Tora wrote:

Strawberry Cream

15.01.2022 - 04:15

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