Swing by Spring Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket for babies and children in DROPS BabyMerino. The piece is worked top down, with round yoke and lace pattern. Sizes 0 - 4 years.

DROPS Baby 43-8
DROPS Design: Pattern bm-131-by
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 – 3/4) years
Child’s height in cm:
48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Child’s height in feet:
1ft/1ft8 - 1ft 10/2ft - 2ft3/2ft5 - 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft – 3ft3/3ft5)

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 52-56-60-64 (68-72) cm = 20 1/2"-22"-23 5/8"-25 1/4" (26 3/4"-28 3/8")
Full length: 25-29-31-34 (37-41) cm = 9 3/4"-11 3/8"-12 1/4"-13 3/8" (14 1/2"-16 1/8")
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-150-150-150 (150-200) g color 27, old pink

DROPS BUTTONS NO 616: 5-5-5-5 (6-6) items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
from 2.80 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 2.80 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 2.80 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2). The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures 1½-2 cm = 1/2"-3/4". Then work the other 4-4-4-4 (5-5) buttonholes with approx. 5-5½-6-6½ (6-6½) cm = 2"-2 1/8"-2 3/8"-2 1/2" (2 3/8"-2 1/2") between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 77-85-89-93 (97-97) stitches with circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and DROPS Baby Merino.
Work 6 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, knit 1 and 6 band stitches in garter stitch. Work this rib for 2 cm = 3/4". Remember the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.

YOKE:
Work the next row as follows from the right side:
6 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1, A.2 16-18-19-20 (21-21) times in width and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
When A.1 and A.2 are finished there are 109-121-127-133 (139-139) stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5.
Continue as follows:
6 band stitches in garter stitch, A.3, A.4 15-17-18-19 (20-20) times in width, A.5 and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! On the last row of the pattern increase 0-0-1-1 (5-17) stitches evenly spaced = 203-227-240-252 (268-280) stitches.
The piece measures approx. 11-11-11-12 (12-12) cm = 4 3/8"-4 3/8"-4 3/8"-4 3/4" (4 3/4"-4 3/4") from the cast-on edge.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 6 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 12-13-14-15 (16-17) cm = 4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5 1/2"-6" (6 1/4"-6 3/4"), divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work 6 band stitches in garter stitch, 29-32-33-35 (38-40) stitches in stockinette stitch, place the next 38-44-48-50 (52-54) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 4-4-6-6 (6-6) stitches under the sleeve, work 57-63-66-70 (76-80) stitches in stockinette stitch, place the next 38-44-48-50 (52-54) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 4-4-6-6 (6-6) stitches under the sleeve, work 29-32-33-35 (38-40) stitches in stockinette stitch and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.

BODY:
= 135-147-156-164 (176-184) stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and 6 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 10-13-14-16 (18-21) cm = 4"-5 1/8"-5 1/2"-6 1/4" (7"-8 1/4") from the division, increase 10-10-10-11 (14-15) stitches evenly spaced on the next row from wrong side = 145-157-166-175 (190-199) stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5.
Work the next row as follows from the right side:
6 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, knit 1 and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
Bind off with knit from the right side when the rib measures 3 cm = 1 1/8".
The jacket measures approx. 25-29-31-34 (37-41) cm = 9 3/4"-11 3/8"-12 1/4"-13 3/8" (14 1/2"-16 1/8") from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 38-44-48-50 (52-54) stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 4-4-6-6 (6-6) stitches cast on under the sleeve = 42-48-54-56 (58-60) stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 4-4-6-6 (6-6) stitches under the sleeve.
Work stockinette stitch in the round for 2 cm = 3/4". Now decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2-1½-1-1½ (2-3) cm = 3/4"-1/2"-3/8"-1/2" (3/4"-1 1/8") a total of 2-4-6-6 (6-6) times = 38-40-42-44 (46-48) stitches.
When the sleeve measures 6-9-10-13 (16-21) cm = 2 3/8"-3 1/2"-4"-5 1/8" (6 1/4"-8 1/4"), increase 4-5-6-4 (5-6) stitches evenly spaced = 42-45-48-48 (51-54) stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and work rib (purl 2, knit 1) for 3 cm = 1 1/8". Bind off with knit.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = work 7 stitches in the same stitch: Knit 1 but do not slip the stitch from the left needle, * make 1 yarn over, knit 1 in the same stitch *, work from *-* 2 more times and slip the stitch from the left needle
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; work the yarn over twisted on the next row
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted-together stitches
symbols = work 5 stitches in the same stitch: Knit 1 but do not slip the stitch from the left needle, * make 1 yarn over, knit 1 in the same stitch *, work from *-* 1 more time and slip the stitch from the left needle
symbols = work 3 stitches in the same stitch: Knit 1 but do not slip the stitch from the left needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 in the same stitch and slip the stitch from the left needle
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 43-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Ingalill Lundholm wrote:

Stickar mönster bm-131-by i 12/18 mån. Har tittat på instruktioner, men förstår inte mönstret till oket. Det står sticka A1, A2 totalt.... Ska jag sticka A1 i 4 varv först och sen A2? Eller är det 1 m A1 o resten A2 som ska upprepas varvet ut? Samma fråga på A3, A4 och A5. Har inte stickat mönster på många år, så jag behöver lite stöd i detta. Instruktionen är lite knapphändig. Mvh Ingalill Lundholm

16.11.2022 - 16:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ingalill, du har 93 masker, strikker 6m+A1=1m+(A.2=4mx20)+6m = 93 masker :)

17.11.2022 kl. 13:41

country flag Ivana Polakova wrote:

Prosím jak se pletou rubové řady? Jak se oka jeví nebo obrace? Děkuji

09.10.2022 - 20:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, Ivano, u vzoru A.1 a A.3-A.5 pleteme rubové řady obrace, ale u vzoru A.2 - se oka střídají, pleteme tedy jak se jeví (podrobněji vysvětlivky symbolů u schématu). Hodně zdaru! Hana

09.10.2022 kl. 22:43

country flag Fritz Fabienn wrote:

Bm 131by Bonjour je ne comprends pas du tout pour l empiècement comment en faisant A3 18 fois pui s A4 et A5 on a pas la totalite des mailes je ne comprends pas du tout et puis A4 en largeur cela veut dire quoi ????comment faire cet empiècement Merci pour votre aide

03.09.2022 - 19:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Fritz, tricotez ainsi en taille 6/9 mois: 6 m point mousse, A.3 (= 1 m), répétez 18 fois les 6 mailles de A.4 (= 18x6=108), tricotez A.5 (6 m) et terminez par 6 m point mousse soit 6+1+108+6+6=127 m. (sur l'envers, lisez les diagrammes de gauche à droite). Quand les diagrammes sont terminés vous avez: 6 m point mousse, A.3 (3 m), 18 x A.4 (= 12 m), A.5 (= 8 m), 6 m point mousse= 6+3+(18x12)+8+6=239 m + 1 augm au dernier rang = 240m. Bon tricot!

05.09.2022 kl. 09:15

country flag Betsie wrote:

Veel keren opnieuw begonnen maar klopt mijns inziens niet.

26.07.2022 - 14:03

country flag Joelle GAC wrote:

Bonjour , Je tricote le 6/9 mois . Au début de l'empiècement je répète 19 fois A2 ,donc j'ai 19 jetés. J'obtiens 108 mailles et pas 127 mailles . Pouvez-vous me dire où est mon erreur , Je vous remercie .

06.07.2022 - 17:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gac, il y a 2 jetés dans chaque A.2, autrement dit vous augmentez 2 mailles dans chaque A.2 (1 jeté au 1er rang + 1 jeté au 3ème rang), ainsi vous aurez: 6+1+(19*6)+6=127 mailles. Bon tricot!

07.07.2022 kl. 08:41

country flag Õie wrote:

Tere\r\nEesti keelses versioonis on silmuste arv vale (42 ja 46 asemel peaks olema 44 ja 48)\r\nVARRUKAD:\r\nTõsta 38-42-46-50 (52-54) silmust ...\r\nSLEEVES:\r\nPlace the 38-44-48-50 (52-54) stitches ...

12.06.2022 - 09:02

country flag Beata Í Lágabø wrote:

Jeg strikker str 6-9 måneder, men jeg får ikke mønstret A1 og A2 til at passe med opskriften Hvis den skal gentages 19 gange, så må jeg ikke tage A1 med Er det en fejl? Hvis jeg strikker A1 og A2 så bliver det til 15 gange, og der kommer at være to masker til overs

15.05.2022 - 00:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Beata. I str. 6/9 mnd har du 89 masker og når du begynner med diagrammene strikker du 6 stolpemasker + A.1 (1 maske) + A.2 som strikker 19 ganger (4 masker x19 rapporter= 73 masker) + 6 stoplemasker = 6+1+76+1= 89 masker. mvh DROPS Design

16.05.2022 kl. 10:24

country flag Kristina wrote:

Så fin kofta, men visst är det fel i mönstret? Under diagram är det förklaringar. Rutan med + i ska väl stickas avig på rätsidan och rät på avigsidan? Så har jag gjort, tror det blev bra!

17.04.2022 - 09:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kristina. Det stämmer, tack för info! Detta är nu rättat (det var fel i den svenska översättningen). Mvh DROPS Design

19.04.2022 kl. 12:22

country flag Anna Maria wrote:

Che meraviglia

08.04.2022 - 13:36

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