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Ruffles Dream by DROPS Design

Knitted shawl in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern, bobbles and flounces.

Keywords: bobble, flounce, lace, shawl, top down

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DROPS 229-9
DROPS Design: Pattern no bs-169
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
Height: Down the middle = approx. 64 cm = 25 1/4".
Width: Along the top = approx. 200 cm = 78 3/4”.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300 g color 0100, off white

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 80 cm = 32”.
Due to the number of stitches you might need more than 1 circular needle as the number of stitches increases.

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk 		Discontinued
find alternatives
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SHAWL – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked with circular needle, back and forth and top down. Due to the number of stitches you might need more than 1 circular needle as the number of stitches increases.

SHAWL:
Cast on 7 stitches with circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. Knit 1 row from the wrong side.
Then work as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, 1 yarn over, knit 2, 1 yarn over, 1 stockinette stitch (= mid-stitch – this stitch is always worked in stockinette stitch), 1 yarn over, knit 2, 1 yarn over and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= 4 stitches increased).
ROW 2 (wrong side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 1 yarn over, knit to mid-stitch, purl the mid-stitch, knit until there is 1 stitch left, 1 yarn over and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= 2 stitches increased).
ROW 3 (right side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 1 yarn over, knit to mid-stitch, 1 yarn over, 1 stockinette stitch (= mid-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit until there is 1 stitch left, 1 yarn over and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= 4 stitches increased).
ROW 4 (wrong side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 1 yarn over, knit to mid-stitch, purl the mid-stitch, knit until there is 1 stitch left, 1 yarn over and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= 2 stitches increased) = 19 stitches.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until the piece measures 10 cm = 4” = 151 stitches on the needle. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!

OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
Now work pattern according to the diagrams – read PATTERN before continuing.
AT THE SAME TIME continue to increase as before (4 stitches from the right side and 2 stitches from the wrong side) until the shawl is finished.

PATTERN:
Start each diagram from the right side, after the increase at the beginning of the row. Work pattern to the mid-stitch, finishing after a complete repeat in width and working stockinette stitch if necessary to the mid-stitch.
Increase on each side of the mid-stitch and work the same number of stitches in stockinette stitch after the mid-stitch, then work pattern so it is symmetrical on each side of the mid-stitch.
The increased stitches are worked in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side of the shawl and the mid-stitch in stockinette stitch. Work the diagrams as follows:

Work A.1 as described above. When A.1 is finished there are 229 stitches.

Work A.2 for 3 cm = 1 1/8". When A.2 is finished there are 271 stitches.

Work A.3. When A.3 is finished there are 325 stitches.

Work A.2 for 6 cm = 2 3/8". When A.2 is finished there are 409 stitches.

Work A.1, but finish after the row with an arrow in A.1 = 463 stitches.

Work A.4 as follows: Work A.4A after the increase at the beginning of the row, then A.4B until there are 4 or more stitches left before the mid-stitch, work A.4C, then stockinette stitch if necessary to the mid-stitch, increase on each side and work the mid-stitch as before, work the same number of stitches in stockinette stitch, work A.4A, work A.4B the same number of times as before the mid-stitch and finish with A.4C before increasing at the end of the row. Continue this pattern until A.4 is finished.

The shawl measures approx. 58 cm = 22 3/4" along the mid-stitch and there are 505 stitches.
Knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side (increasing as before – make sure the number of stitches is now divisible by 4 + 1. Work a flounce-edge as described below.

FLOUNCE-EDGE:
The flounce-edge is worked over all stitches; do not increase on each side of the mid-stitch.
ROW 1 (right side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, increase as before (the increased stitches will be now purled from the right side and knitted from the wrong side), * knit 3, 1 yarn over, purl 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, knit 3, increase as before and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (wrong side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, increase as before, knit 1, * purl 3, knit 3 (yarn overs knitted to leave holes) *, work from *-* until there are 5 stitches left, purl 3, knit 1, increase as before and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 3 (right side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, increase as before, purl 2, * knit 3, 1 yarn over, purl 3, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 3, purl 2, increase as before and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 4 (wrong side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, increase as before, knit 3, * purl 3, knit 5 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, purl 3, knit 3, increase as before and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

Continue to increase the flounces on each row from the right side a total of 5 times in height (= 11 stitches in each purled section seen from the right side).
The edge measures approx. 3 cm = 1 1/8". Bind off a little loosely from the wrong side with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted-together stitches
symbols = bobble: Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, in same stitch (= 5 stitches), work 5 rows of stocking stitch over these stitches, on row 6 knit all 5 stitches twisted together
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 229-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Moulis Lydie wrote:

Bonjour, je viens de finir le point A1 et je n'ai pas du tout 229 mailles car dans ce point, il y a beaucoup de diminutions. 229 mailles c'est le nombre obtenu avec les augmentations normales mais le descriptif ne compte il pas les diminutions (2 mailles ensemble...) ? Mon châle n'est pas plat comme la photo du coup... Merci de votre reponse

24.08.2022 - 07:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Moulis, toutes les diminutions de A.1 sont compensées par 1 jeté pour former le point ajouré, autrement dit, le nombre de mailles de A.1 ne doit pas bouger et toujours être de 8 mailles, ainsi vous allez augmenter 4 mailles tous les 2 rangs soit 13 fois = 52 augmentations + 2 mailles tous les rangs sur l'envers soit 13 fois = 26 augmentations + 151 mailles = 229 mailles. En espérant que ceci puisse vous aider. Bon tricot!

24.08.2022 kl. 08:47

country flag Sara wrote:

Salve, vorrei capire meglio questa parte relativa alla "Panoramica delle sezione successiva": 4 maglie dal diritto del lavoro e 2 maglie del lavoro e 2 maglie dal rovescio rovescio del lavoro. Cosa si intende con "2 maglie del lavoro"? Grazie

10.07.2022 - 22:21

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Sara, grazie per la segnalazione: abbiamo corretto il testo, erano rimasti dei refusi. Buon lavoro!

11.07.2022 kl. 22:02

country flag Monika Händel wrote:

Ich bin es nocheinmal. Der Poncho ist weiss mit Muster. Habe schon alles durchsucht. Ich kann hier leider kein Foto senden.

11.04.2022 - 19:31

country flag Monika Händel wrote:

Ich habe bei Pinterest einen Poncho entdeckt,den ich gerne nachstricken möchte. Leider suche ich vergeblich nach der Anleitung. Können Sie mir helfen? Ich wäre sehr froh darüber. Vielen Dank, Monika

11.04.2022 - 19:28

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Monika, Sie können in der Suchleiste "Poncho" eingeben, dann werden Ihnen die Ponchos angezeigt, die auf unserer Homepage zur Verfügung stehen. Vielleicht finden Sie Ihr Modell oder zumindest ein ähnliches. Viel Spaß beim Stöbern!

13.04.2022 kl. 11:31

country flag Gitte wrote:

Der mangler beskrivelse af boblerne !!!!!

21.03.2022 - 10:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Gitte. Ja, her var det lagt til feil tekst i den danske oppskriften. Vi har nå lagt til forklaring til boblen. Takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på dette. mvh DROPS Design

21.03.2022 kl. 14:28

country flag Josianne Santoro wrote:

Salve, vorrei sapere se i grafici del modello indicano soltanto il ferro di andata oppure se sono indicati tutti i ferri, nella spiegazione del modello non mi pare di averlo visto specificato. Grazie

10.03.2022 - 18:17

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Josianne, il diagramma riporta sia i ferri di andata che quelli di ritorno come indicato nel paragrafo "motivo". Buon lavoro!

10.03.2022 kl. 18:52

country flag Hanne Svensson wrote:

Der mangler en beskrivelse af hvordan man laver bomberne.

07.03.2022 - 07:40

country flag Wilmo wrote:

Hello, are the YO knitted twisted or are they knitted to leave a hole? thank you.

05.03.2022 - 16:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Wilmo, the YO in the lace pattern are knitted to leave a hole. Happy knitting!

06.03.2022 kl. 13:10

country flag Wenche wrote:

Vårsjal

17.01.2022 - 10:16

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