DROPS Melody
DROPS Melody
71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide
from 6.35 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Falling Fog Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Melody. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, double neck and pockets. Sizes XS - XXL.

Highlight Size:
DROPS 232-30
DROPS Design: Pattern ml-079
Yarn group D
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 98-104-110-120-130-146 cm = 38½"-41"-43⅜"-47¼"-51¼"-57⅜"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-67 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26⅜"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group D)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color 03, pearl grey

DROPS BUTTONS NO 522: 6-6-7-7-8-8 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM = US 10: Length 80 cm = 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 80 cm = 32".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 MM = US 10.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32" in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
14 stitches in width and 16 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Melody
DROPS Melody
71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide
from 6.35 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (yoke):
All increases are worked from the right side !
Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. Increase like this at each marker (8 stitches increased in total). On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked just after the neck. The other 5-5-6-6-7-7 buttonholes are worked with approx. 8½-9-8-8-7½-7½ cm = 3¼"-3½"-3⅛"-3⅛"-2⅞"-2⅞" between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 72-72-76-76-80-84 stitches with circular needle size 6 MM = US 10 and DROPS Melody. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8.
Work 1 stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm = 1½". Now cast on 4 band stitches on each side at the end of the next 2 rows = 80-80-84-84-88-92 stitches. Continue the rib with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.
When the rib measures 8 cm = 3⅛" (4 cm = 1½" from the cast-on band stitches), change to circular needle size 6 MM = US 10.
Insert 1 marker after the band at the beginning of the row. The yoke is measured from this marker!

YOKE:
Work the next row from the right side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1, A.2 17-17-18-18-19-20 times in width and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Remember the BUTTONHOLES – read description above.
There should be 2½ cm = 1" between each increase in A.1 and A.2. If your knitting gauge is not correct in height, you can work more/less rows between each increase.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When A.1 and A.2 have been completed in height there are 168-168-177-195-205-215 stitches.
Continue with knit over knit and purl over purl until the yoke measures 11-11-11-14-14-14 cm = 4⅜"-4⅜"-4⅜"-5½"-5½"-5½" from the marker.
Insert 4 markers without working the stitches as follows:
Count 31-31-34-35-37-40 stitches, insert 1 marker, count 27-26-26-32-34-32 stitches, insert 1 marker, count 52-54-57-61-63-71 stitches, insert 1 marker, count 27-26-26-32-34-32 stitches, insert 1 marker; there are 31-31-34-35-37-40 stitches left after the last marker.
Work stockinette stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side and increase as follows:
On the next row from the right side increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker – read INCREASE TIP!
Increase like this on each row from the right side a total of 5-7-8-8-10-12 times = 208-224-241-259-285-311 stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side until the yoke measures 21-22-23-25-27-29 cm = 8¼"-8¾"-9"-9¾"-10⅝"-11⅜" from the marker on the neck. Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, 31-33-36-38-42-47 stitches in stockinette stitch, place the next 37-40-44-48-54-56 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches under the sleeve, work 62-68-71-77-83-95 stitches in stockinette stitch, place the next 37-40-44-48-54-56 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches under the sleeve, work 31-33-36-38-42-47 stitches in stockinette stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.

BODY:
= 146-156-165-179-193-215 stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side for 13-14-15-15-15-16 cm = 5⅛"-5½"-6"-6"-6"-6¼". Now work the pockets on the next row from the right side as follows:
Work the first 14-14-14-16-16-18 stitches, work the pockets over the next 20-20-22-24-24-26 stitches and leave the other stitches on the needle.
Work stockinette stitch back and forth for 24 cm = 9½" over the 20-20-22-24-24-26 stitches (pocket will be 12 cm = 4¾" deep), adjust so the last row is from the right side, the pocket is now done. Knit the next 78-88-93-99-113-127 stitches on the needle, then work stockinette stitch back and forth over the next 20-20-22-24-24-26 stitches for 24 cm = 9½" for the other pocket (pocket will be 12 cm = 4¾" deep), adjust so that the last row is worked from the right side, the pocket is now done. Knit the last 14-14-14-16-16-18 stitches on the needle.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 25-26-27-27-27-28 cm = 9¾"-10¼"-10⅝"-10⅝"-10⅝"-11" from the division.
On the next row from the right side increase 14-12-15-17-19-21 stitches = 160-168-180-196-212-236 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and work rib (starting from the wrong side) as follows:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, purl 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Bind off with knit from the right side when the ribbing measures 6 cm = 2⅜".
The jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-67 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26⅜", from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 37-40-44-48-54-56 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 6 MM = US 10 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 43-46-50-56-62-64 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Work stockinette stitch in the round with for 4 cm = 1½". Now decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 16-10-7-4-3-2 cm = 6¼"-4"-2¾"-1½"-1⅛"-¾" a total of 2-3-4-7-9-10 times = 39-40-42-42-44-44 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 34-34-34-33-31-29 cm = 13⅜"-13⅜"-13⅜"-13"-12¼"-11⅜" from the division. Knit 1 round where you increase 9-8-10-10-12-12 stitches evenly spaced = 48-48-52-52-56-56 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 5 MM = US 8 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 5 cm = 2". Bind off with knit.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the sides of both pockets. Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic. Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Ahearn wrote:

Hello I was having a little trouble with the yoke part of the sweater is the 2 1/2 cm between stitches or between rows.How many cm should you knit and all increases are done thanks

20.04.2024 - 05:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hi, it is a distance between consecutive rows with increases. Please make sure your swatch is correct in hight. Happy knitting!

20.04.2024 - 08:58

country flag Patrick Ahearn wrote:

Hello I Am just wondering how you are meant to do the charts as I am having a little trouble understanding it.Do you do the a1 and then the a2 one?thanks so much!

07.04.2024 - 00:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Patrick, when you start the patterns, you should knit A.1 once, then repeat A.2 17-17-18-18-19-20 times (depending on the size) on the rest of the stitches of the row. Happy Knitting!

07.04.2024 - 01:31

country flag Patrick Ahearn wrote:

Hello I am knitting the the falling fog cardigan in a size small and was wondering in there would be enough yarn in 6 balls of melody to knit both sweater and a 5by5 test swatch

02.04.2024 - 04:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Patrick, the exact amount always depends on many things, like , for example on your personal gauge. The 6 ball/300 gramms should be enough for a size small, but even if it is not, you can always unravel and use the yarn from your gauge swatch. Happy Knitting!

03.04.2024 - 00:06

country flag Libuše Láhrová wrote:

Prosím jak se pletou ty kapsy ? Nemůžu na to přijít. Děkuji za odpověď. Láhrová Libuše

30.12.2023 - 21:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den Libuše, na našich stránkách máme také návod na pletení kapes. Podívejte se, prosím, na toto video. Ať se daří!

30.12.2023 - 23:56

country flag Liz wrote:

I\'m confused about the last row of the body before the ribbing. I\'m knitting the medium and it says from the right side increase 15 stitches = 180 stitches. Where do I increase the 15 stitches? Do I space them evenly across the whole row? Thank you.

05.11.2023 - 21:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Liz, Yes, the stitches are increased evenly on the row. Happy knitting!

06.11.2023 - 06:40

country flag Marianne Nilsson wrote:

Hej! När halskanten mäter 4 cm ska man lägga upp 4 framkantsmaskor i vardera sidan. Då bör ju framkanten bli "utskjutande" i förhållande till halskanten, vilket det inte ser ut att vara på bilderna. Har jag missuppfattat hur upplägget av de 4 maskorna ska göras?

09.10.2022 - 00:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Marianne. Dette gjøres for at ikke stolpen skal bli så tykk. Halskanten / vrangborden strikkes til den måler 8 cm og så skal den brettes dobbelt senere. Ved å legge opp 4 stolpemasker i hver side når vrangborden måler 4 cm, vil ikke stolpen bli dobbelt når den skal brettes / 4 dobbelt når stolpene ligger over hverandre. mvh DROPS Design

10.10.2022 - 16:03

country flag Elisabeth Bakke wrote:

OK, nu fickjag till det. Ser att det inte ska ökas m två m / omslag och att "en gång" innebär hela diagrammet. Då stämmer det med 177 m. Som sagt man vill förstå innan så man slipper riva upp m detta garn!!

26.05.2022 - 19:06

country flag Elisabeth Bakke wrote:

Hej igen, För oket: Enligt beskrivningen ska A1, A2 stickas 18 ggr på bredden + de fem framkantsmaskorna i varje sida. När A1 och A2 har stickats en gång på höjden är det 177 maskor (stl M) - men hur kan det bli det? Det är 84 maskor när jag börjar m omslagen enl A1 o A2 - och även om jag ökar m två maskor på varje omslag blir det bara 2 x 18 = 36 + 84= 110 maskor? Vad är det jag missar?

26.05.2022 - 19:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Elisabeth. Så bra att du fick till det. Mvh DROPS Design

27.05.2022 - 09:53

country flag Elisabeth Bakke wrote:

Hej, Det står beskrivet att första knapphålet maskas av på första varvet - sedan maskas de nästa knapphålen av m ca 8 cm (stl M). Min fråga: det står inget om att första knapphålet behöver göras två ggr eftersom halskanten ska vikas dubbel - men jag antar att det måste maskas av igen för första knapphålet innan oket påbörjas...?

23.05.2022 - 23:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Elisabeth. Du maskar av det första knapphålet på första varvet efter halskanten, så du har inget knapphål på halskanten. Mvh DROPS Design

25.05.2022 - 07:01

country flag Danielle wrote:

Hi, I love that sweater but is the pattern available to knit from the bottom with front/back panels and sleeves knitted apart. I've knitted a few of your patterns from top but found them very challenging. Thank you

17.05.2022 - 14:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Danielle, we only have this pattern worked from top down, check at the bottom of the page (just above this) you will find a video as well as a lesson showing how to work a jumper top down, that might help you. You will also find all our patterns for jackets & cardigans worked bottom up here; and maybe this lesson could help you to adjust the patterns to work each piece separately. Happy knitting!

17.05.2022 - 15:48