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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 54 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 11) = 4.9.
In this example decrease by knitting together approx. each 4th and 5th stitch. Do not decrease over the edge stitches on each side.
BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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VEST – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The front and back pieces are worked separately, back and forth then sewn together. Rib is worked around the armholes, the bands and the neck.
BACK PIECE:
Cast on 64-72-80-84-92-100 stitches with circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 and 1 strand DROPS Air and 1 strand DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work rib as follows:
5 stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, knit 2, 5 stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 9 cm = 3 1/2".
The next row is worked from the right side as follows:
5 stitches in garter stitch, knit 54-62-70-74-82-90 stitches and decrease 11-15-17-17-19-21 stitches evenly over these stitches – read DECREASE TIP, work 5 stitches in garter stitch = 53-57-63-67-73-79 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 8 MM = US 11.
Continue with stockinette stitch with 5 stitches in garter stitch on each side.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm = 13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/2"-15", bind off stitches for the armholes at the beginning of each row as follows. Bind off 5-5-5-5-7-8 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 1-1-2-3-3-4 times (= 6-6-7-8-10-12 stitches on each side) = 41-45-49-51-53-55 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8", bind off the middle 19-19-21-21-23-23 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately.
Bind off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 10-12-13-14-14-15 stitches on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm = 25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8"-29 1/8" from the shoulder. Bind off.
Work the other shoulder in the same way.
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 32-36-40-44-48-52 stitches with circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 and 1 strand DROPS Air and 1 strand DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, knit 2 and 5 stitches in garter stitch.
Continue this rib back and forth for 9 cm = 3 1/2".
The next row from the right side is worked as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 26-30-34-38-42-46 stitches and decrease 6-8-9-11-12-13 stitches evenly over these stitches – remember DECREASE TIP, 5 stitches in garter stitch = 26-28-31-33-36-39 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 8 MM = US 11.
Continue with stockinette stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards mid-front and 5 stitches in garter stitch towards the side. When the piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm = 13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/2"-15", bind off stitches for the armhole at the beginning of each row from the wrong side as follows: 5-5-5-5-7-8 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 1-1-2-3-3-4 times. Continue working with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 39-41-42-44-45-47 cm = 15 1/4"-16 1/8"-16 1/2"-17 1/4"-17 3/4"-18 1/2", start to decrease for the V-neck. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of each row from the right side as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease like this every 2nd row 4-4-5-5-6-6 times, then every 4th row 6-6-6-6-6-6 times.
When all the decreases for the V-neck and armhole are finished there are 10-12-13-14-14-15 stitches on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm = 25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8"-29 1/8". Bind off.
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 32-36-40-44-48-52 stitches with circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 and 1 strand DROPS Air and 1 strand DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work rib as follows: 5 stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this rib back and forth for 9 cm = 3 1/2".
The next row from the right side is worked as follows:
5 stitches in garter stitch, knit 26-30-34-38-42-46 stitches and decrease 6-8-9-11-12-13 stitches evenly over these stitches, 1 stitch in garter stitch = 26-28-31-33-36-39 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 8 MM = US 11.
Continue with stockinette stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards mid-front and 5 stitches in garter stitch towards the side. When the piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm = 13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/2"-15", bind off stitches for the armhole at the beginning of each row from the right side as follows: 5-5-5-5-7-8 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 1-1-2-3-3-4 times. Continue working with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 39-41-42-44-45-47 cm = 15 1/4"-16 1/8"-16 1/2"-17 1/4"-17 3/4"-18 1/2", start to decrease for the V-neck. Decrease 1 stitch at the end of each row from the right side as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 together and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease like this every 2nd row 4-4-5-5-6-6 times, then every 4th row 6-6-6-6-6-6 times.
When all the decreases for the V-neck and armhole are finished there are 10-12-13-14-14-15 stitches on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm = 25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8"-29 1/8". Bind off.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams with grafting stitches.
Sew the side seams from the armholes down, sewing in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch. Leave 17 cm = 6 3/4" for a split on each side.
SLEEVE-EDGES:
Start mid-under the sleeve and knit up 72 to 84 stitches evenly inside the 1 edge stitch, with circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 and 1 strand of each quality. The number of stitches should be divisible by 4.
Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) in the round for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP. Work the other sleeve-edge in the same way.
V-NECK:
Insert a marker mid-back; it will be used when knitting up stitches for the bands and neck.
Right band:
Start from the right side at the bottom of the right front piece, using circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Knit up 93 to 113 stitches as far as the marker mid-back (the number of stitches should be divisible by 4 + 1). Turn and purl 1 row from the wrong side, at the same time as you increase where the decreases for the V-neck start as follows: * Knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 4 times (= 4 stitches increased). On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
Work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, knit 2, purl 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this rib back and forth. When you have worked 1 cm = 3/8" work 4-4-4-4-4-4 buttonholes evenly spaced. The top buttonhole is worked where the decreases for the V-neck begin, the bottom buttonhole 9 cm = 3 1/2" from the bottom edge.
Buttonhole = make 1 yarn over and work 2 together. NOTE: It is neatest if the buttonholes are worked in a purled section (seen from the right side). Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl when the band measures 4 cm = 1 1/2" – remember BINDING-OFF TIP.
Left band:
Start from the right side at the marker in the back of the neck using circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Knit up 93 to 113 stitches down the left front piece (the number of stitches should be divisible by 4 + 1). Turn and purl 1 row from the wrong side, at the same time as you increase where the decreases for the V-neck start as follows: * Knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 4 times (= 4 stitches increased). On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
Work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Sew the band together mid-back. Sew the buttons onto the left band.
POCKETS:
Cast on 15 stitches with 3 strands DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk and circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75. Work 3 ridges. Change to 1 strand DROPS Air and 1 strand DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. Work stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the pocket measures 10 cm = 4”. Bind off. Work 1 more pocket in the same way.
Place the pockets on each front piece, with the bottom of the pocket where the rib finishes and the side of the pocket along the garter-stitch edge on the side. Fasten the pockets with small, invisible stitches.
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.