Red Hibiscus Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket for children in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with round yoke. Sizes 3 – 12 years.

Keywords: jackets, long sleeves, round neck, round yoke, stocking stitch, top down

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-034-bn
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14 years
Child’s height in cm:
98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152 - 158/164
Child’s height in feet:
3ft3/3ft5 - 3ft3/3ft5 – 3ft7/3ft9 - 4ft5/4ft7 - 4ft9/4ft12 - 2ft2/5ft5

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 66-72-76-80-84-88 cm = 26"-28 3/8"-29 1/2"-31 1/2"-33"-34 5/8"
Full length: 36-40-44-48-50-52 cm = 14 1/4"-15 3/4"-17 1/4"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-200-200-250-250-300 g color 25, raspberry

DROPS BUTTONS, Marble NO 629: 6-6-6-6-7-7 items

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool

from 6.60 $ /50g

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	DROPS Air mix	6.60 $ /50g Purple Sheep Yarns	Order
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 72 stitches) minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 3) = 20.6.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 21st stitch. Do not increase the bands. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm = 1/2"-3/4". Then work the other 5-5-5-5-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 6-6½-7-8-7½-7½ cm = 2 3/8"-2 1/2"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-2 7/8"-2 7/8" between each one.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 72-76-76-80-80-84 stitches with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and DROPS Air (including 5 band stitches on each side). Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work rib, as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – see description above, rib (knit 2, purl 2) until there are 7 stitches left, knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work this rib for 3 cm = 1 1/8" (= neck), remember the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above. Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8. Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 3-4-9-5-10-6 stitches evenly spaced = 75-80-85-85-90-90 stitches. Insert 1 marker. THE YOKE IS MEASURED FROM HERE!

Work stockinette stitch back and forth with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side for 2-2-2-2-3-3 cm = 3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8". REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Now work as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 65-70-75-75-80-80 stitches (= 13-14-15-15-16-16 repeats of 5 stitches), 5 band stitches in garter stitch. When A.1 has been completed you have increased 26-28-30-30-32-32 stitches = 101-108-115-115-122-122 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and garter stitch until the piece measures 7-7-7-8-9-9 cm = 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/2"-3 1/2".

Now work as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, knit 1-1-0-0-1-1, work A.1 over the next 90-95-105-105-110-110 stitches (= 18-19-21-21-22-22 repeats of 5 stitches), knit 0-2-0-0-1-1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. When A.1 has been completed you have increased 36-38-42-42-44-44 stitches = 137-146-157-157-166-166 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch until the piece measures 12-12-12-13-15-15 cm = 4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5 1/8"-6"-6".

Now work as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, knit 1-1-1-1-1-1, work A.1 over the next 125-135-145-145-155-155 stitches (= 25-27-29-29-31-31 repeats of 5 stitches), knit 1-0-1-1-0-0 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. When A.1 has been completed you have increased 50-54-58-58-62-62 stitches = 187-200-215-215-228-228 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and garter stitch until the piece measures 15-15-16-17-18-19 cm = 6"-6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7"-7 1/2", on the last row adjust the number of stitches to 186-198-206-210-222-230 stitches.

The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: Work 31-33-34-35-37-38 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 36-38-40-40-42-44 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches under the sleeve, work 52-56-58-60-64-66 stitches (= back piece), place the next 36-38-40-40-42-44 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches under the sleeve, work the last 31-33-34-35-37-38 stitches (= front piece). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
126-134-138-146-154-158 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side for 16-20-23-25-26-27 cm = 6 1/4"-8"-9"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8" (or to desired length; there is 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2" left to finished length). Work 1 row of stockinette stitch and increase 10-10-10-10-10-10 stitches evenly spaced = 136-144-148-156-164-168 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and work as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work rib (knit 2, purl 2) until there are 7 stitches left, knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work this rib for 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2". Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP! Cut and fasten the strand. The jacket measures approx. 36-40-44-48-50-52 cm = 14 1/4"-15 3/4"-17 1/4"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 36-38-40-40-42-44 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches under the sleeve. .
Start at the marker thread and work stockinette stitch in the round for 3 cm = 1 1/8". Now decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 5-7-8-9-10-11 cm = 2"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/2"-4"-4 3/8" a total of 4 times = 34-36-38-40-42-44 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 20-25-29-31-35-38 cm = 8"-9 3/4"-11 3/8"-12 1/4"-13 3/4"-15" from the division (or to desired length; there is 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2" left to finished length). Knit 1 round where you increase 6-4-6-4-6-4 stitches evenly spaced = 40-40-44-44-48-48 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP! The sleeve measures approx. 23-28-32-35-39-42 cm = 9"-11"-12 1/2"-13 3/4"-15 1/4"-16 1/2" from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= knit 1 without slipping it from the needle, 1 yarn over, knit 1 in the same stitch but in the back loop. On the next row purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole (= 2 stitches increased)

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 41-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ).

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

2) What are the yarn groups?

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

8) What is a repeat?

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

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