DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 2.80 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Water Ballet

Knitted top in DROPS Muskat. The piece is worked top down with a wrap-around. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 221-22
DROPS Design: Pattern no r-774
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 80-88-96-106-118-130 cm = 31½"-34⅝"-37¾"-41¾"-46½"-51¼"
Full length: 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm = 16½"-17¼"-18"-19"-19¾"-20½"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-250-300-300-350-400 g color 01, lavender

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 60 cm = 24" or 80 cm = 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 60 cm = 24" or 80 cm = 32" for garter stitch and ties.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 2.80 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1 (for armholes):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch on the beginning of the row as follows:
Work 3 stitches in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, make 1 yarn over.
Increase 1 stitch at the end of row as follows:
Work until 4 stitches remain on row, make 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, work
3 stitches in garter stitch.
On next row from wrong side work the yarn overs twister purl to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for wrap-around):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Right front piece: Work until there are 4 stitches left, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 3 stitches in garter stitch.
Left front piece: 3 stitches in garter stitch, knit 1, 1 yarn over, work as before to end of row.
On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs to leave holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sides of body):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease as follows at the beginning of the row: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 2 , slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows at the end of the row: Work until there are 5 stitches left on the row, knit 2 together, knit 2 and work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth, top down and in sections.

BACK PIECE:
Right shoulder:
Cast on 17-17-19-19-21-23 stitches with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and Muskat. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work stockinette stitch back and forth, with 3 stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, on each side.
When the piece measures 3 cm = 1⅛" – adjust so the next row is from the right side, lay it to one side and work the left shoulder.

Left shoulder:
Cast on 17-17-19-19-21-23 stitches with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and Muskat. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work stockinette stitch back and forth, with 3 stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, on each side.
When the piece measures 3 cm = 1⅛" – adjust so the next row is from the right side, work the 2 shoulders together as follows:
Work as before over the left shoulder, cast on 32-34-34-36-36-36 stitches (= neck) and work the stitches from the right shoulder = 66-68-72-74-78-82 stitches.

Continue back and forth with 3 stitches in garter stitch on each side, garter stitch over the middle 38-40-40-42-42-42 stitches and stockinette stitch over the remaining stitches. When you have worked 2 ridges over the middle stitches continue with stockinette stitch and 3 stitches in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 11-11-12-10-9-8 cm = 4⅜"-4⅜"-4¾"-4"-3½"-3⅛" from the cast-on edge on the shoulders, start to increase for the armholes on each side – read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 6-7-8-12-14-17 times on each side. At the end of the next 2 rows cast on 4-6-7-8-10-11 stitches for the armholes = 86-94-102-114-126-138 stitches.
Now work stockinette stitch, with garter stitch over the outermost 7-9-10-11-13-14 stitches on each side. When you have worked 2 ridges over these stitches, continue with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 4 cm = 1½" from the bottom of the armholes, decrease 1 stitch on each side – read DECREASE TIP. Repeat the decrease when the piece measures 12 cm = 4¾" = 82-90-98-110-122-134 stitches. When the piece measures 41-43-45-47-49-51 cm = 16⅛"-17"-17¾"-18½"-19¼"-20" from the shoulder, change to circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4. Work 2 ridges over all stitches. Bind off – read BINDING-OFF TIP.
The back piece measures approx. 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm = 16½"-17¼"-18"-19"-19¾"-20½" from the shoulder down.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 17-17-19-19-21-23 stitches with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and Muskat. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work stockinette stitch back and forth, with 3 stitches in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 8-7-6-5-5-5 cm = 3⅛"-2¾"-2⅜"-2"-2"-2", start to increase for the wrap-around – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 2nd row to finished length; at the same time, when the piece measures 11-11-12-10-9-8 cm = 4⅜"-4⅜"-4¾"-4"-3½"-3⅛", start to increase for the armhole – remember INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 6-7-8-12-14-17 times. At the end of the next row from the wrong side cast on 4-6-7-8-10-11 stitches for the armhole.
Now work garter stitch over the outermost 7-9-10-11-13-14 stitches under the armhole; the remaining stitches are worked as before.
When you have worked 2 ridges over these 7-9-10-11-13-14 stitches, continue with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch under the armhole, 3 stitches in garter stitch towards mid-front and stockinette stitch over the remaining stitches.
When the piece measures 4 cm = 1½" from the bottom of the armhole, decrease 1 stitch in the side– remember DECREASE TIP. Repeat the decrease when the piece measures 12 cm = 4¾". When the piece measures a total of 41-43-45-47-49-51 cm = 16⅛"-17"-17¾"-18½"-19¼"-20" there are 71-78-87-96-105-113 stitches on the needle. Change to circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4. Work 2 ridges. Bind off – remember BINDING-OFF TIP.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 17-17-19-19-21-23 stitches with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and Muskat. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work stockinette stitch back and forth, with 3 stitches in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 8-7-6-5-5-5 cm = 3⅛"-2¾"-2⅜"-2"-2"-2", start to increase for the wrap-around – remember INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 2nd row to finished length; at the same time, when the piece measures 11-11-12-10-9-8 cm = 4⅜"-4⅜"-4¾"-4"-3½"-3⅛", start to increase for the armhole – remember INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 6-7-8-12-14-17 times. At the end of the next row from the right side cast on 4-6-7-8-10-11 stitches for the armhole.
Now work garter stitch over the outermost 7-9-10-11-13-14 stitches under the armhole; the remaining stitches are worked as before.
When you have worked 2 ridges over these 7-9-10-11-13-14 stitches, continue with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch under the armhole, 3 stitches in garter stitch towards mid-front and stockinette stitch over the remaining stitches.
When the piece measures 4 cm = 1½" from the bottom of the armhole, decrease 1 stitch in the side– remember DECREASE TIP. Repeat the decrease when the piece measures 12 cm = 4¾". When the piece measures a total of 41-43-45-47-49-51 cm = 16⅛"-17"-17¾"-18½"-19¼"-20" there are 71-78-87-96-105-113 stitches on the needle. Change to circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4. Work 2 ridges. Bind off – remember BINDING-OFF TIP.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams with grafting stitches, inside the cast-on edges.
Sew the right side-seam, from the armhole down.
Sew the left side-seam, from the armhole down, but leave a 1 cm = ⅜" opening 5 cm = 2" above the bottom edge. This opening is for the tie on the right front piece to be threaded through.

TIES:
Knit up 3 stitches along the edge of the 2 ridges at the bottom of the right front piece, with circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and Muskat. Work stockinette stitch back and forth over these 3 stitches for 74 to 90 cm = 29⅛" to 35½". Bind off.
Knit up 3 stitches along the edge of the 2 ridges at the bottom of the left front piece with circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and Muskat. Work stockinette stitch back and forth over these 3 stitches for 140 cm to 160 cm = 55" to 63". Bind off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 16.06.2021
Corrected INCREASE TIP-1.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Hanne Christensen wrote:

Jeg strikker Warter ballet blusen, men forstår ikke hvor binde båndene skal sættes på. Er det for enden af fordtykkerne? I opskriften står midt foran??

01.02.2024 - 16:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Hanne. Ja, endene på forstykkene (dette er kanten midt foran, selv om den går på skrå). mvh DROPS Design

12.02.2024 - 10:08

country flag ANNE wrote:

Hi, is it possible to do this pattern using DROPS Belle uni color . Thank you very much!

11.04.2023 - 20:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Anne, Yes, as both Muskat and Belle are in the same yarn group you can use Belle for this pattern. We do recommend that you work a swatch to test your knitting tension before beginning. Happy knitting!

12.04.2023 - 06:56

country flag Borge wrote:

Hei! Er i gang med høyre forstykket og det står at jeg skal gjøre øketips-2 til ferdig mål, samtidig som jeg skal begynne øketips-1 etter 11 cm. De to kolliderer på den éne siden, skal jeg da gjøre to kast mot den ene siden? Eller skal jeg avslutte øk-2, og kun gjøre øk-1? Takk:)

26.04.2022 - 08:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, Øgetips-1 strikker du i siden mod ærmegabet og øgetips -2 strikker du mod midt foran, og altså det som skal blive omslaget. God fornøjelse!

27.04.2022 - 14:26

country flag Marie wrote:

Kan man lave udtagningerne således at der ikke kommer hul langs kanten?

21.04.2022 - 15:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marie, ja der er mange måder at tage ud på. Her ser du én Udtagning - usynlig Hvis den ikke passer dig, så klik på "tag ud" øverst i videoen så får du alle vore udtagninger :)

22.04.2022 - 10:07

country flag Kerstin Niedermeier wrote:

Das ist ein richtig schönes Top. Allerdings würde ich es gerne länger machen. Beim Rückenteil bekomme ich das sicherlich hin, aber bei den Vorderteilen bin ich mir sehr unsicher, wie ich das am besten machen soll. Hätten Sie da einen Tipp für mich? Oder hat es schon jemand ausprobiert und kann mir weiterhelfen? Würde mich über eine Nachricht sehr freuen.

13.07.2021 - 15:18

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Niedermeier, leider können wir jeder Anleitung nach jedem individuellen Frage anpassen und einzelne Modelle auf individuellen Wunsch hin umrechnen. Wenn sie Hilfe damit brauchen, wenden Sie sich bitte an Ihrem DROPS Laden, dort hilft man Ihnen gerne weiter - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Danke im voraus für Ihr Verständnis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.07.2021 - 16:22

country flag Johanna wrote:

Hallo, wollte in meinem vorigen Kommentar nur anmerken, dass auch in der korrigierten Version noch ein Fehler steckt: bei Zun-tipp 1, Zun am R-Ende muss 1Mre eingefügt werden, da sonst 1M ungestrickt bliebe (durch den U wird schließlich keine vorhandene M abgestrickt). Ich hoffe, dass dieser Kommentar anderen weiterhilft.

27.06.2021 - 17:41

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Johanna, herlichen Dank! Korrektur erfolgt! Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.06.2021 - 07:53

country flag Johanna wrote:

Liebes garnstudio Team, auch ich hatte Probleme mit Zunahmetipp 1 in der deutschen Anleitung. Vielen Dank für die schnelle Korrektur! Allerdings habe ich auch in dieser nun wieder einen Fehler entdeckt. Ich gehe davon aus, dass es bei "1 Masche am Ende der Reihe zunehmen" heißen muss: str,. bis noch 4 M übrig sind, 1 U, !! 1 M re !!, 3 M kraus re Ist das korrekt? Mir ist außerdem aufgefallen, dass nirgends etwas zu Randmaschen erwähnt wird, das jedoch fände ich sehr hilfreich.

23.06.2021 - 17:32

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Johanna, die Zunahmen entstehen innerhalb 4 Maschen (= die 3 Maschen krausrechts gestrickt + 1 Masche glatt rechts) - diese 3 Maschen sind von Anfang an beidseitig krausrechts gestrickt - oder misverstehe ich Ihre Meinung?

24.06.2021 - 08:47

country flag Maya Rolke wrote:

Die Angaben sind an vielen Stellen völlig falsch!! Nach einer Zunahme beim rechten Vorderteil von 7x 4 Maschen plus den restlichen Zunahmen kommt man weit über 78 M in Größe M!! Außerdem steht dort bei Zunahmetipp-1 "Nach dem Markierungsfaden" jedoch gibt es keinen Markierer. Bitte überarbeiten Sie die Anleitung zeitnah ich habe bereits alle passende Wolle gekauft und kann jetzt das Oberteil nicht stricken...

20.06.2021 - 17:16

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Rolke, die Zunahmetipp-1 wird gleich korrigiert - die Maschenanzahl sollte richtig sein, es wird nach 7 cm 1 Maschen für das Revers in jede 2. Reihe bis zur Ende (= 43 cm - 7 cm = 36 cm) zugenommen, sollte Ihre Maschenprobe in der Höhe stimmen dann stricken Sie ca 100 Reihe dazwischen = ca 50 Zunahmen für das Revers - und dazu kommen für das Armloch: 7+6+9 Zunahmen und für die Seite: 12 Abnahmen = ca 77 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.06.2021 - 07:55

country flag Fabienne wrote:

Bonjour, Comme Muriel, il n’est pas clair où doit être mis le fil marqueur pour augmentations 1. Merci pour l’explication. Meilleures salutations

16.06.2021 - 00:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Fabienne, bonne nouvelle, la correction vient d'être faite: vous augmentez à 4 m des bords - la partie AUGMENTATIONS-1 a été corrigée. Bon tricot!

16.06.2021 - 15:05

country flag Margit Höhnle wrote:

Hallo, wenn ich beim Rückenteil in Größe S mit 66 Maschen für die Armausschnitte 6 x beidseitig je 2 Ma. (= 24 Ma.) zunehme (Zunahmetipp 1) und danach beidseitig je 4 Maschen (= 8 Ma.) anschlage, komme ich auf 98 Maschen und nicht wie angegeben auf 86 Maschen. Wer kann mir helfen?

09.06.2021 - 15:05

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Höhnle, es wird für die Armlöcher je 1 Masche beidseitig innerhalb 4 Maschen (=4 M kraus rechts + 1 M glatt rechts) = 2 Maschen/Hinreihe zugenommen - Korrektur erfolt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.06.2021 - 15:05