DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Blue Sunrise Jacket

Knitted jacket in 2 strands DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. Piece is worked with V-neck and balloon sleeves with stripes. Size XS - XXL.

Highlight Size:
DROPS 221-23
DROPS design: Pattern as-147
Yarn group C + C or E
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 92-100-118-114-126-138 cm = 36¼"-39⅜"-46½"-45"-49½"-54¼"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150-175-175-200-225 g color 17, light lavender
25-25-25-25-25-25 g color 04, light beige
25-25-25-25-25-25 g color 15, light sea green
25-25-25-25-25-25 g color no 13, denim blue
25-25-25-25-25-25 g color 09, purple

KNITTING GAUGE:
11 stitches in width and 15 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM = US 11
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM = US 11 : Length 40 = 16" and 80 cm = 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 80 cm = 32" for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 4-4-4-5-5-5 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

V-NECK:
All decreases are done from the right side!
Right front piece:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over.
Left front piece:
Work until 3 stitches remain on row, knit 2 together, work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

STRIPES:
2 rounds 2 strands light beige.
4 rounds 1 strand light beige + 1 strand light sea green.
4 rounds 2 strands light sea green.
10 rounds 2 strands denim blue.
4 rounds 1 strand denim blue + 1 strand light sea green.
4 rounds 1 strand denim blue + 1 strand purple
8 rounds 2 strands light lavender.
2 rounds 2 strands light beige.
4 rounds 2 strands purple.
2 rounds 2 strands denim blue.
2 rounds 1 strand denim blue + 1 strand light lavender.
Then work with 2 strands light lavender until finished measurements.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
All decreases are done from the right side!
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 116 stitches), minus edge stitches (2 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 13) = 8.8. In this example decrease by knitting approx. every 8th and 9th stitch together, and do not decrease of edge stitches.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work body back and forth on circular needle up to armholes. Then bind off stitches for armholes , and work front pieces and back piece back and forth separately. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down.
Then assemble piece and work bands back and forth from mid back of neck.

BODY:
Cast on 116-124-136-144-156-172 stitches (including 1 edge stitch garter stitch in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 with 2 strands light lavender. Work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above - * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain on row, knit 2, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib back and forth like this for 3 cm = 1⅛". Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 13-13-17-17-17-17 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP-1 = 103-111-119-127-139-154 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 8 MM = US 11.
Now insert a marker thread 26-28-30-32-35-39 stitches in from each side (= 51-55-59-63-69-76 stitches on back piece). Move the marker threads upwards when working. Use them later when decreasing stitches for armholes.
Continue back and forth in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side towards mid front.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 29-31-33-34-36-36 cm = 11⅜"-12¼"-13"-13⅜"-14¼"-14¼", begin decrease for V-NECK – read explanation above. Decrease like this on every 6th-6th-6th-6th-6th-0 row 1-1-1-1-1-0 times, then on every 4th row 7-7-7-7-8-10 times (= 8-8-8-8-9-10 times in total). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 34-36-37-38-39-40 cm = 13⅜"-14¼"-14½"-15"-15¼"-15¾", work next row from wrong side as follows: Work until 1-1-1-2-3-5 stitches remain before the first marker thread (= front piece), bind off the next 2-2-2-4-6-10 stitches for armhole (= 1-1-1-2-3-5 stitches on each side of marker thread), work the next 49-53-57-59-63-66 stitches (= back piece), bind off the next 2-2-2-4-6-10 stitches for armhole (= 1-1-1-2-3-5 stitches on each side of marker thread), work the rest of row.
Finish front pieces and back piece separately.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Continue back and forth in stockinette stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side and decreases for V-neck. When all decreases for V-neck are done, 17-19-21-22-23-24 stitches remain for shoulder. When piece measures 20-20-21-22-23-24 cm = 8"-8"-8¼"-8¾"-9"-9½" from stitches bind off for armholes, bind off all stitches by knitting from right side - make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight.
Piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼" from shoulder and down.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Continue back and forth in stockinette stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side and decreases for V-neck. When all decreases for V-neck are done, 17-19-21-22-23-24 stitches remain for shoulder. When piece measures 20-20-21-22-23-24 cm = 8"-8"-8¼"-8¾"-9"-9½" from stitches bind off for armholes, bind off all stitches by knitting from right side - make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight.
Piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼" from shoulder and down.

BACK PIECE:
= 49-53-57-59-63-66. Work in stockinette stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, in each side. When piece measures 18-18-19-20-21-22 cm = 7"-7"-7½"-8"-8¼"-8¾" from division, bind off the middle 13-13-13-13-15-16 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then on next row from the neck, bind off 1 stitch = 17-19-21-22-23-24 stitches. When piece measures 20-20-21-22-23-24 cm = 8"-8"-8¼"-8¾"-9"-9½" from division, bind off all stitches by knitting from right side - make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight. Piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼" from shoulder and down. Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 28-28-28-32-32-32 stitches on double pointed needle size 5 MM = US 8 with 2 strands light beige. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) in the round for 5 cm = 2". Switch to circular needle size 8 mm = US 11. Work next round as follows: * knit 1, make 1 yarn over *, work from *-* on round = 56-56-56-64-64-64 stitches. Knit 1 round (knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes).
Continue in the round with stockinette stitches and STRIPES - read explanation above. When sleeve measures 20 cm = 8" from cast-on edge, insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of round (= mid under sleeve). Now decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every approx. 4-4-5-3½-4-4½ cm = 1½"-1½"-2"-1¼"-1½"-1⅝" 6-6-5-8-6-5 times in total = 44-44-46-48-52-54 stitches.
When sleeve measures 52-52-51-50-48-47 cm = 20½"-20½"-20"-19¾"-19"-18½" (shorter measurements in larger sizes because of wider shoulders and longer sleeve caps), work sleeve cap back and forth on circular needle until finished measurements. Work until sleeve measures approx. 54-54-53-53-52-52 cm = 21¼"-21¼"-21"-21"-20½"-20½", i.e. there is a vent of 2-2-2-3-4-5 cm = ¾"-¾"-¾"-1⅛"-1½"-2" at the top of sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Assemble with 2 strands light lavender.
Sew the shoulder seams together.
Sew sleeve cap to armhole. Then sew vent at the top of sleeve to the bottom of armhole – see chart.

RIGHT BAND:
Use circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and 2 strands light lavender.
Begin from right side at the bottom of right front piece and pick up 72 to 88 stitches inside 1 edge stitch from bottom edge until mid back of neck (number of stitches should be divisible by 4).
Work first row from wrong side as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl until 1 stitch remains, at the same time increase by making a yarn over right were decrease for V-neck began, as follows: * Purl 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 4 times (= 4 stitches increased), finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Now work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain, knit 2, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue back and forth like this. When rib measures 1 cm = ⅜", decrease for 4-4-4-5-5-5 buttonholes evenly. Place top buttonhole approx. 1 cm = ⅜" below decrease for V-neck began, and bottom buttonhole approx. 4 cm = 1½" from bottom edge.
1 buttonhole = make 1 yarn over and knit 2 together. NOTE: It will look best if decrease is done in a purl section (seen from right side).
When rib measures 3 cm = 1⅛", bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

LEFT BAND:
Use circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and 2 strands light lavender. Begin from right side mid back of neck, and pick up approx. 72-88 stitches inside 1 edge stitch along neck line in the back of neck and then down along front piece (number of stitches should be divisible by 4).
Work first row from wrong side as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl until 1 stitch remains, at the same time increase by making a yarn over right were decrease for V-neck began, as follows: * Purl 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 4 times (= 4 stitches increased), finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Now work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain, knit 2, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue back and forth like this.
When rib measures 3 cm = 1⅛", bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember BIND-OFF TIP.
Sew the 2 bands together mid back of neck inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Sew the buttons on to left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 07.04.2021
SLEEVES: Cast on 28-28-28-32-32-32 stitches on double pointed needle size 5 mm = US 8 with 2 strands light beige. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) in the round for 5 cm = 2". Switch to circular needle size 8 mm = US 11.
Updated online: 29.09.2021
Correction decrease mid under sleeve in size L.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = sew sleeve cap to armhole as follows: Sew a against A and b against B.
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (19)

country flag Janna wrote:

Hallihallo, Meine Jacke ist fast fertig gestellt und ich bin gerade dabei die Ärmel zu stricken . Meine Frage: gibt es eine Beschreibung, wie ich die Armkugel stricken muss? Ich finde leider nichts dazu und weiß nicht wirklich weiter. Vielen Dank! Liebe Grüße Janna

02.06.2023 - 13:13

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Janna, in diesem Video zeigen wir, wie so eine Ärmel fertig gestrickt wird, und ab ca 02:50 wie man die Ärmal annähen wird - (vielleicht kann Ihnen dann auch dieses Video mit helfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.06.2023 - 14:57

country flag Charlotte wrote:

Bonjour, quelle quantité de laine il faudrait pour tout tricoter d'une seule couleur ? Merci!

20.11.2022 - 14:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Charlotte, nous n'avons malheureusement que la quantité de ce modèle avec les rayures, et n'avons plus le gilet pour le peser; ajoutez les différentes couleurs, il vous en faudra probablement un peu moins; votre magasin DROPS saura vous aider et vous conseiller - même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

21.11.2022 - 09:24

country flag Debby wrote:

In de beschrijving staat elke 6de naald 1 x mindere en elke 4e naald 8 x. Is het nu dat je maar 1 x de 6de minderd en 8 x de 4de minder of snap ik het verkeerd

14.01.2022 - 16:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Debby,

Je mindert 1 keer op de 6e naald, daarna minder je nog eens 8 keer, maar niet dan telkens op de 4e naald, dus na die eerste mindering tel je steeds 4 naalden en dan maak je weer een mindering.

16.01.2022 - 14:40

country flag Angelina wrote:

Ich verstehe nicht ganz wie man die Vorderteile weiter strickt sobald man mit dem rumpfteil fertig ist. Werden nochmal neue Maschen aufgenommen oder wie stricke ich dann weiter? Mir ist der Vorgang dieser Anleitung nicht ganz ersichtlich was dieses rumpfteil sein soll.

14.11.2021 - 12:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Angelina, die Jacke wird von unten nach oben zuerst in einem Teil (re. Vorderteil + Rückenteil + li. Vorderteil) gestrickt, dann werden Maschen für die beiden Armlöcher abgekettet und jedes Teil wird separat bis zur Ende gestrickt. Beim beiden Vorderteil werden Sie Maschen für Halsausshnitt abnehmen und dann für Schulter abketten. Beim Rückenteil stricken Sie gerade bis Halsausschnitt und enden Sie jedes Schulter separat. Kann das Ihnen helfen?

15.11.2021 - 08:08

country flag Anne Vikkelsø Rasmussen wrote:

Rigtig smart.

09.11.2021 - 06:15

country flag Wlach wrote:

Was ist mit dem Rumpfteil gemeint? Ich verstehe nicht wo dies am Schluss an der Jacke angebracht wird

20.10.2021 - 21:45

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Wlach, die Jacke wird von unten nach oben gestrickt, am Anfang stricken Sie re. Vorderdteil + Rückenteil + li. Vorderteil (= Rumpfteil) in einem Stück bis zum Armlöchern dann wird jedes Teil einzeln gestrickt. Kann das Ihnen helfen?

21.10.2021 - 07:11

country flag Kirsten Johansen wrote:

I ærmet str L står der at der skal være 48 masker efter indtagning. Man starter med 64 masker, skal tage ind 4 x 2 masker. Det giver 56?

01.09.2021 - 06:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kristen. Ja, her er det noe feil. Oppskriften er videresendt til design avd slik at de kan kontrollere om det skal flere fellinger til eller maskeantallet skal forandres. mvh DROPS design

06.09.2021 - 13:33

country flag Peters wrote:

Guten Tag, mit welcher Nadelstärke soll man die Maschenprobe stricken? Und wodurch erkennt man die linke-, rechte Seite und Rückenteil, die man seperat stricken soll? An den abgeketteten Armausschnitten vielleicht? Danke im Voraus!

19.08.2021 - 11:57

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Peters, die Maschenprobe soll mit Nadeln Nr 8 glatt rechts gestrickt werden. Nach den Bündchen nehmen Sie regelmäßig verteilt ab und dann setzen Sie Markierungen (= 26-28-30-32-35-39 M für jedes Vorderteil und 51-55-59-63-69-76 M für das Rückenteil). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.08.2021 - 14:37

country flag Loreta wrote:

So ein komplizierte Anleitung hab noch nie erlebt..

16.08.2021 - 21:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Loreta, gerne können Sie Ihre Frage hier stellen, so können wir Ihnen weiterhelfen, gerne wird Ihnen auch Ihr DROPS Laden weiterhelfen - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.08.2021 - 10:29

country flag Duhm wrote:

Hallo, ich verstehe beim Rumpfteil nicht wie man in jeder 6. Reihe und 4. Reihe abnimmt. Insgesamt 8 also eigentlich 6. Reihe doch nur 1 mal und 4. Reihe 7 mal oder? Und wie strickt man rechtes und linkes Vorderteil separat?

16.08.2021 - 08:09

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Duhm, die 1. Abnahme für V-Ausschnitt wird bei 29-36 cm gestrickt, dann stricken Sie 5 Reihen, und *bei der nächsten Hinreihe nehmen Sie noch mal für den V-Auschnitt, stricken Sie dann 3 Reihen* und von *-* insgesamt 7 Mal stricken = es sind jeweils 8 Maschen für den V-Ausschnitt abgenomen. Gleichzeitig, nach 34-40 cm stricken Sie jedes Teil separat fertig, dh die Maschen von linken Vorderteil und Rückenteil stilllegen und das rechte Vorderteil bis Schulter stricken, Faden abschneiden, linkes Vorderteil bis Schulter stricken und dann Rückenteil bis Schulter stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.08.2021 - 08:35