DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

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Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Uncharted Territory

Knitted hat / balaclava in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked top down with stockinette stitch and ribbed edging.

DROPS 214-72

#unchartedterritorybalaclava

DROPS Design: Pattern no me-227
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S/M - L
Fits head size: Approx. 54/56 - 58 cm = 21¼"/22" – 22¾"

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-200 g color 06, brown

KNITTING GAUGE:
22 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 40 cm = 16" or 60 cm = 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 40 cm = 16" or 60 cm = 32" for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Women Accessories Hoods & Balaclavas stocking stitch

DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP (for sides of face-opening):
Increase on the inside of the 5 stitches on each side. All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 102 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 22) = 4.6.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 4th and 5th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (mid-back):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Start 5 stitches before the marker thread mid-back, knit 2 together, knit 6 (the marker sits between these 6 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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BALACLAVA – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The mid-section is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid-front and backwards. Stitches are knitted up on each side of the mid-section and the piece continued back and forth before stitches are cast on for the neck. The piece finished in the round. A ribbed edge is worked around the face-opening to finish.

MID-SECTION:
Cast on 28-28 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and Merino Extra Fine. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH on each side – read description above . REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 13-14 cm = 5⅛"-5½", bind off the edge stitches on each side = 26-26 stitches. Cut the strand, then work the hood as described below.

HOOD:
Knit up stitches on each side of the mid-section from the right side as follows: Knit up 28-32 stitches along the one side inside the 1 edge stitch, work stockinette stitch over the 26-26 stitches on the needle and knit up 28-32 stitches along the other side inside the 1 edge stitch = 82-90 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the row (= mid-back). Allow the thread to follow your work onwards, it is used when decreasing mid-back. In addition, insert 1 marker at the beginning of the row. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM THIS MARKER!
Work stockinette stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side towards mid-front. Then increase each side towards mid-front and decrease mid-back as follows – read the whole section on increasing and decreasing before continuing!

INCREASES MID-FRONT:
When the piece measures 13-15 cm = 5⅛"-6" from the marker, increase 1 stitch on each side towards mid-front – read INCREASE TIP-1 (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this every 4th row (every 2nd row from the right side) a total of 6 times on each side.

DECREASES MID-BACK:
AT THE SAME TIME the 3rd time you increase, decrease 2 stitches mid-back – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4th row a total of 4 times (increases and decreases are finished at the same time).

After all the increases and decreases there are 86-94 stitches. When the piece measures 20-22 cm = 8"-8¾" from the marker, cast on stitches for the neck (try the hat on and work to desired length before casting on).
Cast on 16-16 stitches at the end of the next row from the right side = 102-110 stitches. Continue working in the round as described below.

NECK:
Work 5 rounds of stockinette stitch over all stitches. On the first round increase 22-22 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-2 = 124-132 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 3 cm = 1⅛". Now increase all knit 2 to knit 3 by making 1 yarn over after each knitted section (the yarn overs are knitted twisted on the next row to avoid holes) = 155-165 stitches.
Continue in the round with knit 3, purl 2 until the rib measures 11-12 cm = 4⅜"-4¾". Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP. The piece measures approx. 39-42 cm = 15¼"-16½" from the middle of the mid-section down the side.

EDGE AROUND FACE-OPENING:
Start from the right side at the bottom of the opening, where stitches were cast on for the neck. Knit up 140 to 152 stitches around the opening, inside the 1 edge stitch using short circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and Merino Extra Fine. The number of stitches should be divisible by 4.
Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 3-3 cm = 1⅛"-1⅛". Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP.

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Have you finished this pattern?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #unchartedterritorybalaclava or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Comments / Questions (22)

Aija Määttä wrote:

En ymmärrä miten keskikappaleen reunasta voi poimia 28 silmukkaa? Tein ohuemmilla puikoilla pituudeksi 13,5cm ja paksummilla toisen kerran 15cm. Mielestäni kerroksia pitäisi olla 56, jotta 28 silmukkaa saa poimittua. Kappaleesta tulee liian pitkä. Saan max 24 silmukkaa näistä. Mitä teen väärin? Miksei ohjeessa puhuta kerroksista senttimetrien lisäksi? Olen aloittelija.

20.01.2025 - 22:29

Sara wrote:

Me ha gustado mucho como queda. Lo he hecho algo más corto, pero las explicaciones me han servido mucho. Muchas gracias por compartirlo!!!

20.01.2025 - 12:36

Brigitte Allard wrote:

Bonjour, je ne trouve plus l'endroit pour imprimer les modèles. Est ce normal.

12.01.2025 - 16:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Allard, le bouton pour imprime se trouve désormais en haut à droite de la page. Bon tricot!

13.01.2025 - 11:09

Leila Vanhala wrote:

Kun neulotaan "Kavennus keskellä takana: Samanaikaisesti jne., niin tehdäänkö koko ajan oikealla puolella sekä lisäyksiä reunoissa että kavennuksia takana? Näiden LISÄKSI siis joka 4. kerros reunaan silmukat ja kavennetaan kolmannen lisäyskerroksen jälkeen 2 silmukkaa 1 sijaan? Muilla kerroksilla vain 1 silmukka.

17.10.2024 - 10:47

Reunojen lisäykset ja takaosan kavennukset tehdään aina samalla oikean puolen kerroksella (kavennukset alkavat reunojen kolmannella lisäyskerroksella). Eli lisää 2 silmukkaa ja kavenna 2 silmukkaa joka toisella oikean puolen kerroksella.

18.10.2024 - 18:25

Anita wrote:

Mam pytanie o dodawanie oczek na środku z przodu. " Dodawać tak samo w sumie 6 razy z każdej strony co 4 rzędy (co 2 rzędy na prawej stronie robótki)". Nie rozumiem czy mam dodawać oczka co 4 czy co 2 rzędy.

01.10.2024 - 13:46

Witaj Anito, dodajesz oczka w sumie co 4 rzędy, a oznacza to to samo co dodawać oczka co 2 rzędy na prawej stronie robótki. Pozdrawiamy!

01.10.2024 - 15:49

Sarah wrote:

Bonjour, Pour le modèle S/M, pourriez-vous me dire combien de pelotes de laine vous avez utilisé ? Merci

29.01.2024 - 09:59

Bonjour Sarah, vous trouverez les quantités requises pour chaque taille, au poids, dans l'en-tête, autrement dit, Il faut ici en taille S/M 150 g DROPS Merino Extra Fine / 50 g la pelote = 3 pelotes. Bon tricot!

30.01.2024 - 07:22

Erika wrote:

Hej! Hur maskar jag av första och sista maskan (kantmaskorna) i slutet av mittpartiet?

26.12.2023 - 00:33

Hej Erika, dem maskar du bara av som vanligt :)

02.01.2024 - 10:19

Edward wrote:

Hi, I am wondering how many stitches along from the edge I am supposed to increase from as it isn’t clear to me in the pattern instructions? From looking at the photo I can see the increase stitches are not at the beginning. From what I am understand these increases are created from the second stitch marker from ‘the beginning of the row’. Thanks for your time!

28.08.2023 - 18:18

Dear Edward, the increases on each side (towards face-opening) are worked inside 5 sts on each side, see INCREASE TIP (for sides of face-opening):, this means you increase after the first 5 sts on a right side row and before the last 5 sts on the same right side row. You will increase that way on every 4th row a total of 6 times (-= 6 new stitches on each side). That applies to INCREASES MID-FRONT:, if I misunderstood your question, please feel free to let us now which increases you were thinking of. Happy knitting!

29.08.2023 - 09:03

Jen wrote:

Hi, at the start of the mid section where it says: Cast on 28-28 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) what does it mean by edge stitch? are the edge stitches included in the 28 stitch count? are they knitted differently to the rest of the piece? thanks

22.02.2023 - 10:57

Dear Jen, the edge stitches are used when picking up stitches (inside this edge stitch) and will be worked in garter stitch (knit from right as well as from wrong side); and they are included in the number of stitches to cast on, this means you don't have to cast them extra. Happy knitting!

22.02.2023 - 13:26

Kethnaly wrote:

Bonjour, Pouvez-vous expliquer comment faire les côtes mousse? 1 côte mousse = Tricoter 2 rangs endroit.

14.12.2022 - 09:30

Bonjour Mme Kethnaly, effectivement, pour tricoter 1 côte mousse, on tricote 1 rang endroit sur l'endroit puis 1 rang endroit sur l'envers. Retrouvez dans cette vidéo comment tricoter au point mousse. Bon tricot!

14.12.2022 - 13:12