Good Book Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca Bouclé and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked in stockinette stitch with a small shawl-collar and turn-ups on the sleeves. Sizes XS - XXL.

DROPS 215-36
DROPS Design: Pattern no ab-107
Yarn group C + A or D
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 96-104-112-122-130-140 cm = 37 3/4”-41”-44”-48”-51 1/4”-55”
Full length: 63-66-68-70-72-74 cm = 24 3/4”-26”-26 3/4”-27 1/2”-28 3/8”-29 1/8”
All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA BOUCLÉ from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-250-300-300-350-350 g color 2020, light beige
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
75-100-100-100-100-125 g color 20, light beige
KNITTING GAUGE:
13 stitches in width and 15 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each
quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM = US 10,75: Length 60 or 80 cm = 24” or
32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM = US 10: Length 60 or 80 cm = 24” or 32”
for garter stitch edges.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a
larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller
needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 4.15 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé uni colour DROPS Alpaca Bouclé uni colour 4.15 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé mix DROPS Alpaca Bouclé mix 4.15 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.30 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.30 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.30 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.65$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

MEASURING TIP:
All widths are taken with the piece lying flat and without stretching.
All lengths are taken holding the piece up or the jacket will be too long when worn.
INCREASE TIP (for sides of sleeves): 
Increase 1 stitch on the inside of the 2 edge stitches by making 1 yarn over. On the
next row work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole. Then work the new stitch in
stockinette stitch.
BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the
edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as
binding off and the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The whole garment is worked with 1 strand of each quality (2 strands). The back/front
pieces and the sleeves are worked separately, back and forth with circular needle
and bottom up. The garment is then sewn together as described in the text.
BACK PIECE:
Cast on 62-68-73-79-85-91 stitches with circular needle size 7 mm = US 10,75 and 2
strands Kid-Silk and 1 strand Alpaca Bouclé (= 3 strands). Remove 1 of the strands
of Kid-Silk (the rest of the back piece is worked with 1 strand of each quality; casting
on with 3 strands prevents the cast-on edge being tight).
Change to circular needle size 6 mm = US 10 and work 3 RIDGES back and forth –
read description above.
Change back to circular needle size 7 mm = US 10,75 and work stockinette stitch
back and forth with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on each side.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 45-47-48-49-50-51 cm = 17 3/4”-18 1/2”-19”-19 1/4-19
3/4”-20” – read MEASURING TIP, bind off 3-4-5-7-7-7 stitches for the armholes at
the beginning of the next 2 rows = 56-60-63-65-71-77 stitches. Continue as before
with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 61-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24”-25 1/2”-26”-26 3/4”-27 1/2”-
28 3/8”, bind off the middle 10-10-11-11-13-13 stitches for the neck and each
shoulder is finished separately.
Continue working as before and bind off 2 stitches on the next row from the neck =
21-23-24-25-27-30 stitches on the shoulder. Continue until the piece measures 63-
66-68-70-72-74 cm = 24 3/4”-26”-26 3/4”-27 1/2”-28 3/8”-29 1/8”. Loosely bind off
with knit from the right side – read BINDING-OFF TIP!
Work the other shoulder in the same way.
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:

Cast on 34-37-39-42-45-48 stitches with circular needle size 7 mm = US 10,75 and 2
strands Kid-Silk and 1 strand Alpaca Bouclé (= 3 strands). Remove 1 of the strands
of Kid-Silk (the rest of the front piece is worked with 1 strand of each quality).
Change to circular needle size 6 mm = US 10 and work 3 ridges back and forth.
Change back to circular needle size 7 mm = US 10,75 and work stockinette stitch
back and forth with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the side and 3 edge
stitches in garter stitch towards mid front.
When the piece measures 45-47-48-49-50-51 cm = 17 3/4”-18 1/2”-19”-19 1/4-19
3/4”-20”, bind off 3-4-5-7-7-7 stitches for the armhole at the beginning of the next row
from the wrong side = 31-33-34-35-38-41 stitches.
Continue as before with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the armhole and 3 edge
stitches in garter stitch towards mid front.
When the piece measures 63-66-68-70-72-74 cm = 24 3/4”-26”-26 3/4”-27 1/2”-28
3/8”-29 1/8”, bind off for the shoulder as follows, on the next row from the wrong side:
Bind off the first 21-23-24-25-27-30 stitches and knit the remaining 10-10-10-10-11-
11 stitches = collar. The collar is worked as described below.
RIGHT COLLAR:
= 10-10-10-10-11-11 stitches. Keep the stitches on circular needle size 7 mm = US
10,75. Start from the right side and work ridges back and forth with 1 strand of each
quality as follows: * Work 2 ridges over all stitches, work 1 ridge over just the first 6-6-
6-6-7-7 stitches towards mid front *, work from *-* until the
collar should measure 7-7-8-8-8-8 cm = 2 3/4”-2 3/4”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8” on
the inside, where it is shortest. Loosely bind off with knit from the right side.
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 34-37-39-42-45-48 stitches with circular needle size 7 mm = US 10,75 and 2
strands Kid-Silk and 1 strand Alpaca Bouclé (= 3 strands). Remove 1 of the strands
of Kid-Silk (the rest of the front piece is worked with 1 strand of each quality).
Change to circular needle size 6 mm = US 10 and work 3 ridges back and forth.
Change back to circular needle size 7 mm = US 10,75 and work stockinette stitch
back and forth with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the side and 3 edge
stitches in garter stitch towards mid front.
When the piece measures 45-47-48-49-50-51 cm = 17 3/4”-18 1/2”-19”-19 1/4-19
3/4”-20”, bind off 3-4-5-7-7-7 stitches for the armhole at the beginning of the next row
from the right side = 31-33-34-35-38-41 stitches.
Continue as before with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the armhole and 3 edge
stitches in garter stitch towards mid front.
When the piece measures 63-66-68-70-72-74 cm = 24 3/4”-26”-26 3/4”-27 1/2”-28
3/8”-29 1/8”, bind off for the shoulder as follows, on the next row from the right side:
Bind off the first 21-23-24-25-27-30 stitches and knit the remaining 10-10-10-10-11-
11 stitches = collar. The collar is worked as described below.
LEFT COLLAR:
= 10-10-10-10-11-11 stitches. Keep the stitches on circular needle size 7 mm = US
10,75. Start from the wrong side and work ridges back and forth with 1 strand of each
quality as follows: * Work 2 ridges over all stitches, work 1 ridge over just the first 6-6-
6-6-7-7 stitches towards mid front *, work from *-* until the
collar should measure 7-7-8-8-8-8 cm = 2 3/4”-2 3/4”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8” on

the inside, where it is shortest. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Loosely bind off with
knit from the right side.
SLEEVE:
Cast on 28-30-32-32-34-36 stitches with circular needle size 7 mm = US 10,75 and 2
strands Kid-Silk and 2 strands Alpaca Bouclé (= 4 strands). Remove 1 strand of each
quality (the rest of the sleeve is worked with 1 strand of each quality; casting on with
4 strands avoids the cast-on edge being tight).
Change to circular needle size 6 mm = US 10 and work 3 ridges back and forth.
Change back to circular needle size 7 mm = US 10,75 and purl 1 row from the right
side with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. Continue with stockinette stitch
(knit from right side, purl from wrong side) and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each
side.
When the sleeve measures 8 cm = 3 1/8”, insert 1 marker in each side. These mark
where the sleeve will be turned up; the piece is now measured from these markers.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 9 cm = 3 1/2” from the markers increase 1 stitch on each
side – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 4-3½-3½-3-2½-2½ cm = 1 1/2”-1
1/4”-1 1/4”-1 1/8”-7/8”-7/8” a total of 9-10-10-11-12-12 times on each side = 46-50-
52-54-58-60 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 45-44-43-42-41-40 cm = 17 3/4”-17 1/4”-17”-16 1/2”-16
1/8”-15 3/4” from the markers insert 1 new marker in each side. These mark where
the bottom of the armhole starts.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 48-47-47-47-46-45 cm = 19”-18 1/2”-18
1/2”-18 1/2”-18”-17 3/4” from the markers at the bottom of the sleeve. Loosely bind
off with knit from the right side – read BINDING-OFF TIP! The whole sleeve
measures approx. 56-55-55-55-54-53 cm = 22”-21 5/8”-21 5/8”-21 5/8”-21 1/4”-21”
from the cast-on to the bind-off edge. Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the bind-off edge. Sew in the sleeves inside the 1
edge stitch and sew the bottom of the armholes – the markers inserted in each side
at the top of the sleeves should match the sides of the body.
Sew the sleeve and side seams in one go – sew in the outermost loop of the
outermost stitch so the seam is flat.
Sew the collar together mid back; make sure the seam turns to the wrong side when
the collar is turned down. Sew the collar to the neck.
Turn up the bottom 8 cm = 3 1/8” on each sleeve and sew down with a couple of
small stitches if necessary.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 18.11.2022
Right + Left collar: ;;; work from *-* until the collar measures 7-7-8-8-8-8 cm = 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" on the inside...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = The sleeve cap is sewn to the armhole as follows: Sew a to A and b to B
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 215-36) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Iuliia wrote:

Hi! Thank you for this beautiful model. Question - back and front are casted using 3 threads while sleeves are casted using 4. Why?

05.12.2022 - 00:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Iuliia, you cast on the sleeves with 4 strands so that you will be sure to get an ealastic edge (needs to be more elastic on wrist than on bottom edge). Happy knitting!

06.12.2022 kl. 11:33

country flag Katleen wrote:

@Katrien, voor de kraag heb ik geen 2 maar 1 ribbel gebreid voor de lange toeren. Succes !

19.11.2022 - 01:23

country flag Katrien wrote:

Hallo, IVM de kraag : op 2/10/22 schreef u (aan Kathleen) dat u de ontwerpafdeling contacteerde om evt aanpassingen te doen? Ik wacht nu enkele weken om de kraag te breien, wacht ik nog, of heeft u tips voor mij, zodat de kraag mooi lukt. Ik lees hier dat bij velen die kraag niet lukt. Mvg

30.10.2022 - 18:33

country flag Dominique Masson wrote:

Bonjour je m'aperçois au moment de les assembler que les 2 morceaux du col st bcp trop longs... j'ai une encolure de 30cm env et 2 morceaux de col de 22cm. J'ai fait 9 fois 3 rangs de côtes et 1 rang envers comme indiqué pour taille M, les autres mesures st ok avec le modèle. Dois je refaire ? coudre froncé ? Merci de votre conseil Dominique Par contre la laine est très belle et le modèle très cocooning, top !

25.10.2022 - 17:58

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Masson, les deux parties du col doivent mesurer 7 ou 8 cm (cf taille) du côté le plus court (= côté épaule/ c'est le côté qui est cousu le long de l'encolure dos), de l'autre côté (côté bordure devant/ouverture de la veste), il sera 2 fois plus long à cause des rangs raccourcis, mais c'est le côté qui sera replié - cette vidéo montre un col châle sans rangs raccourcis (le côté le plus court est le côté où vous avez tricoté moins de rangs), en espérant qu'elle puisse vous aider. Bon tricot!

26.10.2022 kl. 07:38

country flag Katleen wrote:

Er zijn hier al veel vragen gesteld ivm de kraag. Inderdaad, als je de instructies volgt heb je veel meer dan 8 cm aan de korte kant ( kant die aangenaaid wordt aan rugpand). Toch graag eens duidelijke instructies.

29.09.2022 - 02:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Katleen,

Inderdaad lijkt het alsof er een fout in zit en dat je minder ribbels moet breien. Ik heb het doorgegeven aan de ontwerpafdeling om naar te kijken. Hopelijk komt er spoedig een correctie.

02.10.2022 kl. 16:14

country flag Vee wrote:

Must it be knitted on a circular kneedle or can regular kneedles be used !

26.06.2022 - 22:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Vee, each piece is worked here with circular needle to get enough room for all stitches, but you will work all the way back and froth, so that you can use straight needles, the stitches will just be tighter. Read more here. Happy knitting!

27.06.2022 kl. 09:03

country flag Brigitte wrote:

Bonjour, merci premièrement pour vos modèles. Est-ce que je prend toujours les deux fils pour l’assemblage à la fin?

28.02.2022 - 16:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Brigitte, j'utilise personnellement toujours les 2 fils pour l'assemblage, surtout dans un modèle où il n'y en a que 2 comme celui-ci. Bonnes finitions!

28.02.2022 kl. 16:36

country flag Lieve Damen wrote:

Ik heb net zoals bij de meeste anderen, een vraagje ivm het breien van de kraag. Deze is veel te lang, als je de beschrijving volgt. Waar zit de fout in het patroon of de beschrijving?

08.02.2022 - 10:43

country flag Chantal Brees wrote:

Kraag (halve) over 11 st in totaal te breien : . 9 x 2 ribbels ( = 4 nld) over alle steken en 9 x 1 ribbel (= 2 nld) over 7 steken. Is dus 9 x 6 nld = 56 nld voor de lange kant en 9 x 4 nld = 32 nld voor de korte kant van de kraag. 10 x 10 is ongeveer 15 nld Kraag moet aan korte zijde volgens patroon 8 cm meten ? Denk dat er toch een fout in patroon zit want nu kom ik op veel meer cm uit! Wat moet het dan wel zijn? Alvast bedankt.

08.12.2021 - 22:00

country flag Sarah Harcombe wrote:

Hello, I am knitting the collar. It says *work 2 ridges over all stitches and work 1 ridge over first 6 stitches*. Repeat *-* 9 times. So is this 27rows? The collar should be 8cm. Is this the length of the collar because mine is about 20cm. Id be grateful for any help! Thank you

04.11.2021 - 08:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sarah, 2 ridges = 4 rows, 1 ridge = 2 rows, so one repeat of the short rows is = 6 rows, So if you repeat that 9 times, you will have 36 rows on the shorter edge and 56 rows on the lomnger edge. The difference to your number of rows should cover the difference in length. I hope this helps. Happy Stitching!

04.11.2021 kl. 10:04

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