The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= P from RS, K from WS | |
= 1 YO between 2 sts On next row K YOs to make holes. | |
= K 3, pass first st worked over the other 2 so that this st is around the last 2 sts on right needle (= 1 st dec) | |
= on this row work K between cables (i.e. there will be a ridge on this row) This is done so that texture will not contract | |
= this st has been dec, skip square |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Lobelia |
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Knitted DROPS jacket with raglan and cables, worked top down in ”Nepal”. Size S-XXXL.
DROPS 171-14 |
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GARTER ST (worked in the round): 1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. GARTER ST (back and forth): K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced): To calculate how often inc should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 97 sts), minus bands (e.g. 8 sts) and divide the remaining sts by no of inc to be done (e.g. 20) = 4.4. I.e. in this example inc 1 st alternately for every 4th and 5th st (and do not inc over bands). INCREASE TIP-2 (body): All inc are done from RS. Inc 1 st P by making a YO. On next row K YO twisted to avoid holes. RAGLAN SLEEVE: Inc 1 st after/before A.2 on sleeve by making a YO (= 2 sts inc on each sleeve). On next row P YOs to make holes. RAGLAN BODY: Inc first 2 sts before/after A.2 on front and back piece (= 8 sts inc in total), then inc 1 st before/after A.2 on front and back piece (= 4 sts inc in total). Inc 2 sts before A.2 as follows: Work until 1 st remains before A.2, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO. Inc 2 sts after A.2 as follows: 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO. NOTE: On next row P YOs closest A.2 to make holes. P the other YOs twisted to avoid holes. Inc 1 st before/after A.2 as follows: Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row P YOs to make holes. DECREASE TIP-1 (body): Work until 4 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, K 4 (marker is between these sts), slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso. Repeat in the other side (= 4 sts dec). DECREASE TIP-2 (sleeve): Work until 2 sts remain before A.2, K 2 tog, A.2, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec). BUTTONHOLES: Dec for buttonholes on right band. I.e. band at the end of row seen from RS. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO. Dec for buttonholes when piece measures (from cast-on edge and along the band): SIZE S: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38 and 47 cm. SIZE M: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38 and 47 cm. SIZE L: 2, 12, 21, 31, 40 and 50 cm. SIZE XL: 2, 12, 21, 31, 40 and 50 cm. SIZE XXL: 2, 12, 22, 32, 42 and 52 cm. SIZE XXXL: 2, 12, 22, 32, 42 and 52 cm. CAST-OFF TIP: To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a needle ½ size larger. ---------------------------------------------------------- JACKET: Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. YOKE: Cast on 97-99-103-109-111-117 sts (incl 4 band sts in garter st in each side) on circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above and inc 17-19-19-25-27-25 sts evenly on last row from RS - READ INCREASE TIP-1 = 114-118-122-134-138-142 sts. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Now work an elevation in stocking st in the back of neck as follows: Work the first 61-63-67-73-77-79 sts, turn and work 16-16-20-20-24-24 sts, turn and work 20-20-24-24-28-28 sts, turn and work 24-24-28-28-32-32 sts, turn and work the rest of row. Then P 1 row with 4 band sts in garter st in each side. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES! Now work pattern as follows from RS: 4 band sts in garter st, P 1, A.1 (= 4 sts) 2-2-2-3-3-3 times, P 1, K 1-2-2-1-2-3 (= left front piece), A.2 (= 8 sts on 1st row), K 14-14-16-16-16-16 (= sleeve), A.2, K 1-2-2-1-2-3, P 1, A.1 5-5-5-7-7-7 times, P 1, K 1-2-2-1-2-3, (= back piece) A.2, K 14-14-16-16-16-16 (= sleeve), A.2, K 1-2-2-1-2-3, P 1, A.1 2-2-2-3-3-3 times, P 1, 4 band sts in garter st. Work 1 row from WS the same way. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION On next row from RS, beg inc for RAGLAN BODY and RAGLAN SLEEVE – see explanation above. NOTE: Inc differently on sleeves and body. BODY: Inc 2 sts every other row 4-4-5-6-7-9 times and 1 st every other row 11-14-14-14-15-14 times (= 15-18-19-20-22-23 times in total). SLEEVES: Inc like this every other row 15-18-19-20-22-23 times in total. When all inc are done there are 250-278-294-318-342-362 sts on needle. Now work as follows from WS: Work the first 38-42-44-49-53-57 sts (= right front piece), slip the next 52-58-62-64-68-70 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 sts under sleeve, work the next 70-78-82-92-100-108 sts (= back piece), slip the next 52-58-62-64-68-70 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 sts under sleeve, work the remaining 38-42-44-49-53-57 sts (= left front piece). Piece measures approx. 15-17-18-19-21-22 cm along band. BODY: There are now 158-174-186-206-226-246 sts for body. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Continue pattern back and forth as before and insert a marker in the middle of the new sts under sleeve in each side. Then dec in each side and in pattern as follows: DECREASE IN THE SIDES: When piece measures 4 cm, dec 1 st on each side of marker in each side - READ DECREASE TIP-1 (body). Repeat dec every 8th row 2 times in total = 8 sts dec in total. DECREASE IN PATTERN: When piece measures 6 cm, dec 1 st P by P 2 tog in every section with P between 2 cables = 6-6-6-10-10-10 sts dec (i.e. dec 1-1-1-2-2-2 sts on each front piece and 4-4-4-6-6-6 sts on back piece). When all dec are done, there are 144-160-172-188-208-228 sts on needle. When piece measures 15-15-16-16-16-16 cm, inc 1 st P in every section where P sts were dec – READ INCREASE TIP-2 (= 6-6-6-10-10-10 sts inc) = 150-166-178-198-218-238 sts. On next row from RS inc 1 st P on each side of each cable = 18-18-18-26-26-26 sts inc on needle. Inc like this every 10th-10th-10th-14th-14th-14th row (= every 5th-5th-5th-7th-7th-7th row from RS) 7-7-7-5-5-5 times in total = 276-292-304-328-348-368 sts. When all inc are done, continue back and forth in pattern. When piece measures 56-56-57-57-57-57 cm – adjust to finish after 4th or 8th row in pattern, work 2 rows in stocking st inside 4 band sts in garter st in each side. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work 2 ridges. Cast off - READ CAST-OFF TIP. SLEEVE: Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles. Slip the 52-58-62-64-68-70 sts from stitch holder on double pointed needles size 5 mm and pick up 1 st in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 new sts cast on under sleeves = 58-64-70-72-78-82 sts. Insert a marker in the middle of the new sts. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Now work A.2 (= 8 sts on 1st row) mid under sleeve (i.e. there are 4 sts of A.2 on each side of marker), work the remaining sts on round in stocking st. When piece measures 4 cm, dec 1 st on each side of A.2 - READ DECREASE TIP-2 (sleeve). Dec like this every 8th-6th-5th-4th-4th-4th round 11-14-15-19-18-19 times in total = 36-36-40-40-42-44 sts. When sleeve measures 48-47-46-45-44-44 cm, switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Work 2 ridges. Cast off. Knit another sleeve the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew the buttons on to left band. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (80)
Lena wrote:
Så, är det 2 A2 på insidan av ärmen? Eller är det 1? Om bara 1, var finns den andra? Att ni svarar på hur jag ska öka hjälper inte då jag redan ökat 20 gånger.
04.05.2023 - 16:02DROPS Design answered:
Hei Lena. Når du strikker bærestykket strikkes A.2A 4 steder, på hver side av raglan, MEN når du strikker ermene strikkes A.2A kun 1 gang på undersiden av ermet. Se evnt bildet av modellen der modellen står med ryggen til. Da ser du 1 stk A.2A som er strikket langs innersiden av ermet hele veien. A.2 strikkes midt under ermet (dvs det er 4 masker av A.2 på hver side av merket du har satt under ermet), de resterende maskene på omgangen strikkes i glattstrikk. mvh DROPS Design
08.05.2023 - 09:14Lena wrote:
Hej! Fått ihop antalet maskor efter ett antal försök. Nu undrar jag, jag ska lägga ärmarna på lina och sticka vidare. Är A2 på båda sidor del av en ärm? Jag har ökat exakt enligt mönstret och då är bara A2 på framsidan av ärmarna med. Den som är på baksidan nämns inte
02.05.2023 - 19:19DROPS Design answered:
Hej Lena, jo du strikker A.2 i hver raglanovergang og tager ud på hver side af A.2 i alle 4 overgange. :)
04.05.2023 - 12:03Lena wrote:
Hej! I mönstret ska det vara 138 maskor efter ökning. Men från varv fem är det 118 maskor i mönstret i XL. Hur ska man lösa det?
19.04.2023 - 14:48DROPS Design answered:
Hei Lena. Litt usikker på hvor du er i oppskriften. I str. XL skal du før og etter forhøyningen ha 134 masker. Så strikker du etter forklaringen ( = 4 stolpe-m rille, 1 vr, A.1 3 ganger, 1 vr, 1 r , A.2, 16 m rett, A.2, 1 r, 1 vr, A.1 7 ganger, 1 vr, 1 r, A.2, 16 m rett, A.2, 1 r, 1 vr, A.1 3 ganger, 1 vr, 4 stolpe-m rille =det er strikket over 134 masker). Strikk 1 p tilbake fra vrangen på samme måte. Nå starter økningen til RAGLAN BOL og RAGLAN ERME – les forklaringen i i oppskriften. NB: Det økes forskjellig på ermer og bol. mvh DROPS Design
24.04.2023 - 10:39Bonnie wrote:
In the 171-14 pattern, there is A1 and A2, A1 is 12 rows and A2 is 8 rows, why do they not coordinate? After you cast on and do the garter stitch rows and increase, you do a the first row with A1and A2 in it, it then says work 1 row from WS the same way, so what do you do when you get to the YO .
14.04.2023 - 22:45DROPS Design answered:
Dear Bonnie, they are different patterns, applied on different sections of the garment so they don't need to match in the number of rows. The yarn overs on each side of the raglan stitches are simply purled (not twisted, there should be a hole). Happy knitting!
16.04.2023 - 19:55Janice wrote:
Please explain A.1 and A.2 171-14\\r\\nPlus said equals 4 stitches and 8 stitches.
22.02.2023 - 00:52DROPS Design answered:
See answer et video linked below in previous answer - A.1 should be counted over 4 sts even when there are 5 sts - A.2 should be counted as 8 sts even when there are 9 sts. the yarn over made for the small cable doesn't count as a stitch when counting the stitches on the row. Happy knitting!
22.02.2023 - 08:49Janice wrote:
Please explain A. and A.2
22.02.2023 - 00:45DROPS Design answered:
Dear Janice, this video shows how to work this cable over 3 stitches - in A.1 you will purl 1 stitch on each side of these 2/3 sts and in A.2 you will work K1, P2, the cable, P2, K1 (seen from RS). Hope it can help you. Happy knitting!
22.02.2023 - 08:47Sabine Schrodt wrote:
Ich habe nun den Rumpfteil mit 4 Reihen kraus beendet und locker abgekettet. Beim Tragen der Jacke klappen sich die kraus gestrickten Reihen nach oben um, was leider nicht schön aussieht. Haben Sie einen Tipp?
08.10.2022 - 18:57DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Schrodt, Sie können die Jacke mit Stecknadeln auf einer geeigneten Unterlage spannen, anfeuchten (z.B. mit einer Sprühflasche für Blumen) und trocknen lassen, danach entfernen Sie die Stecknadeln, dann sollte sich der Rand nicht mehr rollen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
10.10.2022 - 09:00Sabine Schrodt wrote:
Vielen Dank für Ihre Antwort, leider muss ich noch einmal nachfragen: wie Sie geschrieben haben, gibt es 4 x A.2. Bei welchem A.2 nehme ich 5 x 2 und 14 x 1 M zu (bei dem 1. , 2., 3. oder 4. A.2) und bei welchem A.2 nehme ich 19 x 1 Masche zu (bei dem 1., 2., 3. oder 4. A.2)? Nochmals danke!
21.09.2022 - 20:32DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Schrodt, für das linke Vorderteil nehmen Sie vor der 1. A.2 zu, für die 1. Ärmel nehmen Sie nach der 1. A.2 + vor der 2. A.2 zu, für das Rückenteil nehmen Sie nach der 2. A.2 + vor der 3. A.2 zu; für die 2. Ärmel nehmen Sie nach der 3. A.2 + vor der 4. A.2 und für das linke Vorderteil nehmen Sie nach der 4. A.2. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
22.09.2022 - 09:40Sabine Schrodt wrote:
Hallo, auch ich trenne zum 2. Mal auf. Ich lese die Anleitung, dass der linke Ärmel mit A.2 beginnt und 16 M re folgen bei Größe L, dann beginnt das Rückteil mit A2. Der rechte Ärmel beginnt mit A.2 und 16 M folgend. Das rechte Vorderteil beginnt mit A.2, somit beihaltet das linke Vorderteil kein A.2. Daher frage ich mich, bei welchen A.2 nehme ich 5 x 2 Maschen zu und dann 14 x 1 und wo nehme ich "nur 19 x 1 zu. Ich komme nicht auf 294 M nach allen Zunahmen. Danke für Ihre Hilfe!
18.09.2022 - 18:55DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Schrodt, A.2 gilt für die Raglanlinien, dh innerhalb die Blenden-Maschen + 1 Masche links stricken Sie A.1 und bei jeder Raglanlinie stricken Sie jeweils A.2 (es sind 4 x A.2 insgesamt) - Für Raglan nehmen Sie wie unter RAGLANZUNAHMEN ÄRMEL: und RAGLANZUNAHMEN RUMPFTEIL: zu, es sind so am Ende li. Vorderteil = vor A.2 - am Anfang Ärmel/Rückenteil = nach A.2 + am Ende Ärmel/Rückenteil = vor A.2 - am Anfang re. Vorderteil = nach A.2 zugenommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
19.09.2022 - 10:31Tamara wrote:
Goedemorgen. Ik begrijp het tweede stukje niet van de pas. Er staat dat ik 61 steken moet breien, daarna omdraaien en 16 steken breien, weer omdraaien en 20 steken breien. Ik snap dit niet. Ik denk dat dan terug moet breien over de gebreide steken, maar dat klinkt ook niet logisch. Er staat als laatst: brei de laatste ... steken. Kunt u dit voor mij uitleggen? Groeten Tamara
24.08.2022 - 09:54DROPS Design answered:
Dag Tamara,
Ja, dat klopt dat je terug moet breien over de gebreide steken. Je breit dus eerst 61 steken (dus je breit de naald niet helemaal uit), dan keer je het werk en brei je terug. Dit doe je nog een aantal keren zoals aangegeven. Hierdoor krijg je een verhoging aan de achterkant van het werk.
31.08.2022 - 14:12