Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Saules siulas website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Saules siulas website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= K | |
= P | |
= 1 YO between 2 sts On next round K the YO to make hole. |
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= 1 YO between 2 sts On next round P YO twisted to avoid holes. | |
= K 2 sts in 1 st I.e. work in front and back loop of st. | |
= K 3, pass first st worked over the other 2 so that this st is around the last 2 sts on right needle (= 1 st dec) |
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= this st has been dec |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Josephine |
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Knitted DROPS dress with raglan and cables, worked top down in ”Karisma”. Size S-XXXL.
DROPS 172-14 |
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PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. RAGLAN: Inc as follows before A.1a: Work until 1 sts remain before A.1a, 1 YO, K 1. Inc as follows after A.1a: K 1, 1 YO. On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes. INCREASE TIP-1: Inc 1 st K by making 1 YO. On next round K YO twisted to avoid holes. INCREASE TIP-2: Inc 1 st P by making a YO. On next round P YO twisted to avoid holes. DECREASE TIP (sleeve): Dec as follows before A.1b: Work until 3 sts remain before A.1b, K 2 tog, K 1. Dec as follows after A.1b: K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso DECREASE TIP (body): Dec as follows before marker: Work until 6 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, K 4. Dec as follows after marker: K 4, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso CAST-OFF TIP: To avoid a tight cast-off edge, you may use a needle ½ size larger. ---------------------------------------------------------- DRESS: Worked in the round, top down. Rounds start mid back. YOKE: Cast on 124-124-132-140-148-148 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Karisma. K 1 round. Then work 6 rounds rib = K 2/P 2. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. On first round work as follows: K the first 16-16-18-18-20-20 and inc 1-2-2-2-2-2 sts evenly (= half back piece), work A.1a (= 6 sts on first round), K the next 18-18-18-22-22-22 and inc 2-2-2-2-4-4 sts evenly (= right sleeve), work A.1a over the next 6 sts, K the next 32-32-36-36-40-40 and inc 2-4-4-4-4-4 sts evenly (= front piece), work A.1a over the next 6 sts, K the next 18-18-18-22-22-22 and inc 2-2-2-2-4-4 sts evenly (= left sleeve), work A.1a over the next 6 sts, K the remaining 16-16-18-18-20-20 and inc 1-2-2-2-2-2 sts evenly (= half back piece) = 132-136-144-152-164-164 sts (+ 1 st that will be inc in each report of A.1a on round = 4 sts on round). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION On next round work pattern and inc for raglan as follows: READ WHOLE SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING. Continue in stocking st and A.1a in every transition between body and sleeves. When A.1a has been worked vertically, repeat A.1b over A.1a - NOTE: On last repeat of A.1b in height on yoke do not inc with YO (i.e. there are 6 sts in every repetition of A.1b when inc for raglan is done). AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd round in A.1a start inc for RAGLAN - see explanation above, on each side of A.1a/A.1b. NOTE: Inc differently on body and sleeves. RAGLAN BODY: Inc like this on every round 0-0-0-7-9-12 times, every other round 19-22-23-23-24-26 times and on every 4th round 1-1-1-0-0-0 times (= 20-23-24-30-33-38 times in total). RAGLAN SLEEVES: Inc like this every other round 13-18-23-22-20-18 times and every 4th round 4-3-1-2-4-7 times (= 17-21-24-24-24-25 times in total). When all inc are done there are 280-312-336-368-392-416 sts on round. Work next round as follows: Work 40-44-47-53-58-63 sts (= half back piece), slip the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 sts under sleeve, work the next 80-88-94-106-116-126 sts (= front piece), slip the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 sts under sleeve, work the last 40-44-47-53-58-63 sts (= half back piece). BODY: There are now 176-192-208-232-256-280 sts for body. Continue in stocking st. Insert a marker in each side, in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 sts that were cast on under sleeves. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! When piece measures 4 cm, dec 1 st on each side of markers (= 4 sts dec) - READ DECREASE TIP (body)! Dec like this every 6th round 2 times in total = 168-184-200-224-248-272 sts. When piece measures 7 cm, dec 25-30-35-37-39-41 sts evenly = 143-154-165-187-209-231 sts. NOTE: This is done to compensate for the 26-28-30-34-38-42 sts inc on 1st round in pattern A.2a. Work 1 round more that finishes when 2 sts remain on round. This is now beg of round. This is done to get a symmetrical pattern. Now work pattern as follows: * A.2a (= 3 sts on 1st round), K 8 * repeat from *-* 12-13-14-16-18-20 more times on round (= 13-14-15-17-19-21 repetitions) = 169-182-195-221-247-273 sts. Continue with pattern in the round like this. When entire A.2a has been worked vertically, there is 195-210-225-255-285-315 sts on round. Then work A.2b over A.2a until finished measurements AT THE SAME TIME inc in the sections with P and the sections in stocking st as follows: INC IN SECTIONS IN STOCKING ST: When piece measures 14 cm, inc 2 sts in every repetition in stocking st by making a YO inside 1 st K in each side of repetition – READ INCREASE TIP-1 (= 26-28-30-34-38-42 sts inc on round). Inc like this every 8 cm 3 times in total. INC IN SECTIONS WITH P: When piece measures 20 cm, inc 1 P st in every section with P - READ INCREASE TIP-2 (= 26-28-30-34-38-42 sts inc on round). Inc like this every 8 cm 3 times in total. When all inc are done there are 351-378-405-459-513-567 sts on round. Continue until piece measures 83-86-89-92-95-97 cm measured from shoulder – adjust so that last round is 2nd round in A.2b. Cast off with K over K and P over P - READ CAST-OFF TIP. SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Slip sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 4 mm and pick up 1 st in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 new sts cast on under sleeve = 68-76-84-88-92-96 sts. Insert a marker in the middle of the new sts under the sleeve. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Now continue in stocking st and A.1a mid under sleeve (i.e. 3 sts in A.1a on each side of marker). When A.1a has been worked vertically, continue with A.1b over A.1a. When piece measures 4 cm, dec 1 st on each side of A.1b under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP (sleeve). Dec like this every 8th-6th-5th-4th-4th-4th round 12-15-18-19-20-21 times in total = 44-46-48-50-52-54 sts. When sleeve measures 38-37-36-35-34-33 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because wider shoulders) - adjust so that next round is 2nd round in A.2b, inc 8-6-8-6-8-6 sts evenly over sts in stocking st = 52-52-56-56-60-60 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Now work rib (K 2/P 2) – adjust to work K over K and P over P over the 6 sts over A.2b. When rib measures 6 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P. Work the other sleeve the same way. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (107)
Wendy Stephens wrote:
Hello! I have trouble! Size S. I did 6 rounds of rib on YOKE+ first round with A.1a. Now 132 sts. next I'm confused. Do I begin RAGLAN increases on the next round which is the round with the second line of A.1a? Do I put markers to separate BODY and SLEEVES to apply increases on the different rounds? Does this happen together at start of the RAGLAN? Also what does it mean ''On last repeat of A.1b in height on yoke do not increase with YO''? I don't see YO on that line in the pattern.
12.01.2021 - 10:55DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Stephens, raglan increases start on row 2 in A.1a (= 2nd line in A.1a) - you can add markers if you like to, raglan increases are worked on each side of each A.1a/A.1b - see RAGLAN, ie before A.1a/A.1b at the end of back/front piece/sleeves, after A.1a/A.1b at the beg of back/front/sleeves. you will increase 8 sts (body and sleeves) or only 4 sts (body only while inc on every 4th round on sleeve). Happy knitting!
12.01.2021 - 15:58Maria Von Bodelschwingh wrote:
Ich möchte dieses wunderschöne Kleid für meine Enkelin Josephine stricken. Sie ist fast 8 Jahre alt. Wie kann ich die Maschenzahlen umrechnen? Oder geht vielleicht eine feinere Wolle? sodaß das Kleid kleiner wird.
02.01.2021 - 11:17Dagmar Brongkoll wrote:
Hallo, muss ich bei dem Kleid bei A.2a und A.2b immer über alle 12 Reihen stricken??
08.12.2020 - 20:00DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Brongkoll, A.2a wird über 3 Maschen gestrickt, dann wird es zu 7 Maschen zugenommen. Wenn die 8 Reihen in A.2a gestrickt wurden, stricken Sie jetzt immer nur A.2b über A.2a, dh nur die 4 Reihen in A.2b werden jetzt in der Höhe wiederholt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
09.12.2020 - 06:57Norma Diaz wrote:
Hola! Gracias por tu respuesta anterior pero no entiendo la forma de repartir los aumentos, me puedes explicar cómo repartirlos? Gracias!
17.08.2020 - 16:47DROPS Design answered:
Hola Norma! Cómo aumentar puntos distribuidos equitativamente encontreras AQUI. Buen trabajo!
20.11.2020 - 17:02Norma Diaz wrote:
Hola! Estoy en la parte del canesú, ya tengo 144 Puntos en mi aguja para la talla L, me puedes explicar la parte que sigue? Gracias!
15.08.2020 - 04:50DROPS Design answered:
Hola Norma. Al obtener 144 puntos (para la talla L) comenzamos con los aumentos para el raglán y trabajamos el patrón. Como se trabaja números de aumentos diferentes para la forma de raglán en el cuerpo y la manga, las indicaciones están separadas en dos párrafos diferentes para entenderlo mejor, pero se trabajan al mismo tiempo.
16.08.2020 - 13:51María wrote:
Hola. No entiendo la cantidad de puntos de 165 a 195 y por último 225. La talla que hice es es L. Influye el grosor de lana? Porque me quedó como tubo no como en forma de evase
16.07.2020 - 00:04DROPS Design answered:
Hola Maria. Los 165, 195, 225 puntos son los puntos totales después de trabajar el diagrama A.2. Los aumentos están incluidos en el diagrama. Si trabajas con la misma lana y mantienes la tensión del tejido no te debería de quedar en forma de tubo la labor, porque tenemos aumentos de hasta un total de 60 puntos.
17.08.2020 - 19:52Monika wrote:
Bei den Zunahmen im Glatt links Bereich: ist da ein Schreibfehler und werden dort auch je 2 M zugenommen wie im Glatt rechts Bereich oder tatsächlich nur je 1 M? Wo mache ich die Zunahme dann? Danke
29.06.2020 - 17:31DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Monika, die Zunahmen nach 14 cm sind doch 2 Maschen in jedem Glatt rechts bereicht, so nehmen Sie zu: 1 Umschlag vor allen glatt rechts gestrickten Maschen, stricken Sie alle Maschen glatt rechts, 1 Umschlag . Die Umschläge stricken Sie rechts verschränkt bei der nächsten Runde. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
30.06.2020 - 10:50Heidi Johansen wrote:
Jeg får ikke skrevet ut denne oppskriften som er gratis ?
25.05.2020 - 11:54DROPS Design answered:
Hej Heidi, klik på "skriv ut" knappen som ligger i selve opskriften, til højre for billederne. God fornøjelse!
26.05.2020 - 15:02Florence wrote:
Un grand merci pour votre réponse si rapide !!
22.04.2020 - 19:25Florence wrote:
Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas le passage A1a et A1b Est-ce que ces deux motifs sont à répéter tout le temps ou juste 1 fois le A1a et le A1b toujours après ? Merci de votre réponse
22.04.2020 - 13:33DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Florence, dans A.1a on va augmenter 1 maille au 1er rang pour pouvoir avoir suffisamment de mailles pour la torsade. A.1 ne sera tricoté qu'une seule fois en hauteur, quand les 6 rangs de A.1a ont été tricotés, on tricote A.1b (et on répète A.1b en hauteur). Bon tricot!
22.04.2020 - 14:06