Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side | |
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn over to leave a hole | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn twisted over to avoid a hole | |
= knit 2 together | |
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch | |
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches | |
= purl 2 together | |
= yoke divided for body and sleeves on this row |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Wistful |
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Jacket with leaf pattern and stripes, worked in 2 strands DROPS Air or 2 strands DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked top down with ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 201-9 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced): To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 57 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 8 stitches) and divide the remaining 49 stitches with number of increases to be made (e.g. 12) = 4.1. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch - do not increase on bands. On the next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1 to A.3). Diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side. STRIPES: The whole garment is worked in 2 strands Air or 2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk. On the yoke you use 2 strands off-white until the piece measures approx. 23-23-23-23-28-28 cm from the cast-on edge – finish after a whole/half leaf in height. Then on the body you use 1 strand off-white + 1 strand purple haze/light lavender until the piece measures approx. 34-34-34-34-39-39 cm from the cast-on edge – finish after a whole/half leaf in height. Then work with 2 strands purple haze/light lavender to finished length. The sleeves are worked with 1 strand off-white + 1 strand purple haze/light lavender until this stripe measures approx. 15-14-14-14-12-12 cm. Then work with 2 strands purple haze/light lavender to finished length. RAGLAN: All increases are worked from the right side! Increase to raglan in each transition between body and sleeves as follows: Start just before the stitch with marker, make 1 yarn over, knit stitch with marker from right side and purl it from wrong side (= raglan-stitch), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at marker and a total of 8 stitches increased on row). On next row knit the yarn overs towards the front/back pieces from the wrong side and purl the yarn overs towards the sleeves from the wrong side (there will be holes). BUTTONHOLES: Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on row as follows: 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole. The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then the next 4-4-5-5-5-5 buttonholes are worked with approx. 9-9-8-8-9-9 cm between each one. ------------------------------------------------------ START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: Neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued back and forth with circular needle from mid front, top down. Sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down. NECK: Cast on 57-57-61-61-65-65 stitches (including 4 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 8 mm and 2 strands off-white Air or 2 strands off-white Brushed Alpaca Silk. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 4 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 5 stitches left on row, knit 1 and finish with 4 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – read description above. Purl 1 row from the right side where you increase 12-12-8-8-8-8 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 69-69-69-69-73-73 stitches. Then work yoke as described below. YOKE: Change to circular needle size 9 mm. Insert 4 markers in the piece as described below (without working the stitches). The markers will be used when increasing to raglan. Count 15-15-15-15-16-16 stitches (= front piece), insert first marker in the next stitch, count 6 stitches (= sleeve), insert 2nd marker in next stitch, count 23-23-23-23-25-25 stitches (= back piece), insert 3rd marker in next stitch, count 6 stitches (= sleeve) and insert 4th marker in next stitch. There are 15-15-15-15-16-16 stitches left after last marker (front piece). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1A (= 11-11-11-11-12-12 stitches), increase to RAGLAN on each side of stitch with marker (raglan-stitch) – read description above, work stocking stitch with right side out over the stitches on sleeve and as far as the next raglan-stitch, increase to raglan on each side of raglan-stitch, work A.1B (= 11-11-11-11-12-12 stitches), work 1 stitch stocking stitch with wrong side out, A.1A (= 11-11-11-11-12-12 stitches), increase on each side of raglan-stitch, work stocking stitch with right side out over the sleeve as far as the next raglan-stitch, increase on each side of the raglan-stitch, work A.1B (= 11-11-11-11-12-12 stitches) and finish with 4 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front. Continue this pattern and increase to raglan every 2nd row (i.e. each row from right side) a total of 9-9-12-12-13-13 times (including the first increase described in text) – the increased stitches on front and back pieces are worked into the pattern as you go as shown in A.1. On the sleeves the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch with right side out. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION and read STRIPES! When the increases to raglan are finished there are 161-161-185-185-205-205 stitches on the needle. Continue with pattern as shown in diagram, but to avoid the lace pattern on each side of the raglan-line being broken when the increases are finished, work A.4 at markers 1 and 3 and A.5 at markers 2 and 4 (stitch with markers should match mid-stitches in A.4/A.5). Work until the last row in A.1 remains. Now divide the yoke for body and sleeves as follows: Work 29-29-32-32-36-36 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 26-26-32-32-34-34 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 4-6-4-8-6-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 51-51-57-57-65-65 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 26-26-32-32-34-34 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 4-6-4-8-6-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 29-29-32-32-36-36 stitches as before (= front piece). The yoke measures approx. 20-20-23-23-26-26 cm from the cast-on edge mid front. Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! BODY: = 117-121-129-137-149-157 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 31-32-34-36-39-41 stitches in from each side (= 55-57-61-65-71-75 stitches between marker threads on back piece). The marker threads mark the sides of the body. First row worked as follows from the right side (with 1 strand off-white + 1 strand purple haze/light lavender): SIZES S, M, L and XL: Work 4 band stitches in garter stitch, A.2A (= 24 stitches), 6-8-12-16 stitches in stocking stitch with wrong side out (marker thread sits in middle of these stitches), work A.2B (= 24 stitches), 1 stitch in stocking stitch with wrong side out, work A.2A (= 24 stitches), 6-8-12-16 stitches stocking stitch with wrong side out (marker thread sits in middle of these stitches) work A.2B (= 24 stitches) and finish with 4 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front. Continue this pattern – remember STRIPES. When A.2 has been worked a total of 2 times in height, work A.3A over A.2A and A.3B over A.2B (the other stitches are continued as before). When A.3 has been worked 1 time in height, work stocking stitch with wrong side out and 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 28-30-29-31 cm from the division (or to desired length; there is 4cm left to finished length). Then work rib-body as described below. SIZES XXL and XXXL: Work 4 band stitches in garter stitch, 1-1 stitch in stocking stitch with wrong side out, work A.2 (= 29 stitches), 11-15 stitches in stocking stitch with wrong side out (marker thread sits in middle of these stitches with 6-8 purled stitches towards back piece and 5-7 purled stitches towards front piece), work A.2 (= 29 stitches), 1 stitch in stocking stitch with wrong side out, A.2 (= 29 stitches), 11-15 stitches in stocking stitch with wrong side out (marker thread sits in middle of these stitches), work A.2 (= 29 stitches), 1-1 stitch in stocking stitch with wrong side out and finish with 4 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front. Continue this pattern – remember STRIPES. When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height, work A.3 over A.2 (the other stitches are continued as before). When A.3 has been worked 1 time in height work stocking stitch with wrong side out and 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 30-32 cm from the division (or to desired length; there is 4cm left to finished length). Then work rib-body as described below. RIB-BODY: = 117-121-129-137-149-157 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side over all stitches. Change to circular needle size 8 mm. The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 5 stitches left on row, purl 1 and finish with 4 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm. Loosely cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl. The jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from the shoulder down. SLEEVE: Place the 26-26-32-32-34-34 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 9 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 4-6-4-8-6-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve, with 1 strand off-white and 1 strand purple haze/light lavender (= 2 strands) = 30-32-36-40-40-44 stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round with right side out. When the stripe with off white + purple haze/light lavender measures 15-14-14-14-12-12 cm, change to 2 strands purple haze/light lavender, Continue with stocking stitch in the round until the piece measures 25-26-23-24-21-22 cm from the division (or to desired length; there is 4 cm left to finished length. NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke). Knit 1 round. Change to double pointed needles size 8 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 4 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 29-30-27-28-25-26 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew buttons onto left band. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (16)
Nathalie wrote:
Bonsoir, Je fais le modèle en XXL mais dans la légende il manque une explication concernant le triangle rectangle avec la pente noire descendante vers la droite. Je suppose donc que c'est un surjet. Ai-je raison ? Merci d'avance. Cordialement PS : J'en profite pour vous remercier pour tous ces modèles .
12.12.2022 - 22:08DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Nathalie, le surjet étant le 6ème symbole, je pencherai plutôt pour 2 mailles ensemble à l'envers - ce qui colle avec le nombre de mailles envers au rang suivant, nos stylistes vont vérifier et faire une correction, merci pour votre retour. Bon tricot!
13.12.2022 - 08:13Marina Druzhkova wrote:
Hello! Are there any knit stitches at the sides of the body? I see ones by the photo, where the marker thread sits.
29.07.2021 - 20:46DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Druzhkova, the stitches cast on mid under each sleeve are worked in reversed stocking stitch (purl from right side and knit from wrong side), the knit stitch you can see on the photo is the first stitch in A.2B (at the beg of pattern on back piece, size S/M/L/XL - Happy knitting!
30.07.2021 - 08:14Kathi wrote:
Auf den Fotos sind die Ärmel glatt rechts gestrickt. In der Anleitung schreiben Sie glatt links. Lese ich das nicht richtig? Wie sieht denn der Rücken aus?
12.10.2020 - 05:54DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Kathi, die Ärmel werden glatt rechts gestrickt (Anleitung wird angepasst,danke fûr den Hinweis) - Rückenteil wird mt A.1B, 1 M glatt links und A.1A gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
12.10.2020 - 08:55Marina wrote:
Hello! I don't understand, neck is finished: "purl 1 row from the right side where you increase stitches ...." And Yoke starts from the right side, after we insert all markers. Where is the row from the wrong side between them?
16.04.2020 - 02:40DROPS Design answered:
Hi Marina, The instructions should be 'purl 1 row from the wrong side....'. Apologies and happy knitting!
16.04.2020 - 07:16Anne wrote:
Bonjour, Je fais le gilet en taille XL. Après les augmentations du dernier rang d'encolure , il y a 69 mailles. Problème : la mise en place des marqueurs (15 +6+23+6+15) donne un total de 65 mailles. Il faut répartir différemment ... mais comment ?
31.10.2019 - 19:36DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Anne, les marqueurs doivent chacun être placés dans une maille, vous aurez ainsi: 15 + 1 + 6+ 1 + 23 +1 + +6 + 1 +15 = 69 mailles. Bon tricot!
04.11.2019 - 14:20Maike wrote:
Das Diagramm für Grösse L-XL scheint ab Reihe 12 nicht zu stimmen. Nach der gestrickten Reihe 11 stimmt es, ab 12 nicht mehr...
03.03.2019 - 09:11DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Maike, bei der 11. Reihe in A.1B/A.1A nehmen Sie 2 Maschen (1 für Raglan + 1 im Diagram) = dann haben Sie 2 Maschen mehr bei der 12. Reihe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
04.03.2019 - 09:57Nashwa Sakr wrote:
Ok, thanks alot for your help, one last thing,on row 16 of diagram A1.A, it's shown as k6,p6,k5,p3,k4, shouldn't it be k6, p7, k4, p3, k4 instead ? because after i worked as shown i felt that the leaf pattern was broken
21.02.2019 - 10:40DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Sakr, it looks like you are right, our design team will check diagram, thank you. Happy knitting!
21.02.2019 - 11:20Nashwa Sakr wrote:
Ok so this means that i will replace last 2 sts of A1.A with the first 2 sts of A.4, and the first 2 sts of A1.B with the last 2 sts of A.5? and if this is the case how will i do it on row 21 for size s/m, as the last 2 sts of A1.A is k1,p1
20.02.2019 - 18:28DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Sakr, the first 2 sts in A.1 will be worked as the first 2 sts of A.4 = instead of working K1, P1, work P2 tog, YO. Happy knitting!
21.02.2019 - 09:49Nashwa Sakr wrote:
For example, i am starting to work row 19 of diagram A1.A size s/m, so i will work (4 garter sts, 3 purl sts, p2tog, yo, k1, yo, p2tog, p2, yo, sl,k,psso,k5, k2tog, yo,p6) so these will be 29 sts of the left front, now i should work diagram A.4 which requires 5 sts but i can't find these 5 sts in my actual work as the next st to be worked after working the 29 sts of the left front is the raglan st, so how can i make it?
20.02.2019 - 16:16DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Sakr, instead of the P6 at the end of A.1A work P4 and work the first 2 sts in A.4 (= P2 tog, YO), then work the 3rd stitch in A.4 (= K1 = stitch with marker), and work the last 2 sts in A.4 over sleeve. Same on each raglan. Happy knitting!
20.02.2019 - 16:30Nashwa Sakr wrote:
But if i did so and started 3 sts before the raglan st, i will work these 3 sts from the left front piece? which will make the remaining number of sts not equal to the 25 sts in the A1.A diagram
20.02.2019 - 14:24DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Sakr, oops you start 2 sts before the stitch with marker (= the raglan stitch) and work the first 2 sts in A.1A as shown in the first 2 sts in A.4 and work the last 2 sts in A.1B as shown in the first 2 sts in A.5 (2 sts from A.4/A.5 are worked on the sleeves and 2 sts are worked on front/back pieces). Happy knitting!
20.02.2019 - 16:23