DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Extra 0-966
DROPS design: Pattern no u-066-bn
Yarn group B
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Size: 0/6 months - 1 - 2/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 years
Head circumference: approx. 42-45-48-50-52 cm / 16½”-17¾”-19”-19½”-20½”

Materials: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
50-50-50-50-100 g color no 11, orange.
50-50-50-50-50 g color no 47, forest green.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16’’) SIZE 3.5 mm/ US 4 - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows = 4’’ x 4’’ (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2 mm / US 0 – for stem

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Pattern in diagrams are seen from RS.
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HAT:
Cast on 84-90-96-102-108 sts with orange on double pointed or circular needles size 3.5 mm / US 4.
P 1 round, then work in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 6 cm / 2½’’, insert 1 marker (= rolling edge), now measure the piece from here and work according to diagram A.1.
When piece measures 7-8-9-10-12 cm / 2¾”-3”-3½”-4”-4¾”, dec 3-0-6-3-0 sts evenly = 81-90-90-99-108 sts.
Then insert 9-10-10-11-12 markers in the piece 9 sts apart.
First st after first marker = first st in A.2.
Now work A.2, but continue with K and P as in A.1 in the orange section.
After A.2 work with forest green until finished - AT THE SAME TIME dec every other round: 1 st on right side of all markers until 9-10-10-11-12 sts remain on needle.
Switch to double pointed needles size 2 mm and work 3 cm / 1’’ over these sts for stem.
Pull yarn through the remaining sts and fasten.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 30.07.2014
New yarnamount: Materials: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio 50-50-50-50-100 g colour no 11, orange.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K orange
symbols = P orange
symbols = forest green
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS Extra 0-966

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Comments / Questions (72)

country flag Robin Seguin wrote:

Are you aware that Etsy is selling your pattern? They are even using the same child to model it.

11.10.2023 - 01:38

country flag Ly Vu wrote:

Can you please clarify the decrease in green. Do you dc every round ( for example 1/2/3 row) or every other round ( for example 1/3/5 row) ? Thank you!

10.10.2023 - 22:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ly Vu, insert a total of 9-10-10-11-12 markers with 9 sts between each marker, then after A.2 decrease as follows: work until 2 sts remain before marker and knit these 2 sts together, repeat at each marker, you have decreased 9-10-10-11-12 sts. Knit 1 round without decreasing, then repeat decreases: work until 2 sts remain before marker and knit these 2 sts together, repeat at each marker. Knit 1 round without decreasing. Continue like this until 9-10-10-11-12 sts remain on needles. Happy knitting!

11.10.2023 - 08:44

country flag Urban Åkerström wrote:

Trevlig mössa och bra beskrivning-

18.09.2023 - 22:20

country flag Charlotte wrote:

Hi there, do you have to switch to dp at the end or can you use circular? I’ve not quite been brave enough to try dp yet. Thanks

17.09.2023 - 18:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Charlotte, you can use the technique MAGIC LOOP and continue using the circular needles. You can see a video on this technique here: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=120&lang=en. Happy knitting!

17.09.2023 - 21:33

country flag Lena wrote:

Detta mönster finns som köpmönster på Etsy,. Jag råkade göra det eftersom jag inte visste att det var ett mönster från Garnstudio. Det finns fler säljare som säljer mönstret och det känns inte okej. Brukar ni anmäla sånt ? Nu har jag anmält det mönstret jag köpte till Etsy men det finns ett antal till.

02.09.2023 - 08:31

country flag Tracy wrote:

I love this hat, but how many times do you diagram a1?

31.08.2023 - 05:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Tracy, You repeat diagram A.1 in height until the hat measures 7-8-9-10-12 cm from the marker-thread (depending on the size you are working). Then you continue with A.2, 1 time in height, before finishing with forest green. Happy knitting!

31.08.2023 - 06:42

country flag Emmy wrote:

För mig känns det som att diagram A2 är uppånedvänt alternativt att färgerna borde byta plats. Jag har följt diagrammet A2, men för mig blir då det gröna uppånedvänt (i diagrammet) mot vad det borde vara enligt resultatet. Kan ni meddela hur rätt diagram ska se ut? Så får jag riva upp och göra om.

30.11.2022 - 14:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Emmy, du ved at du starter diagrammet i nederste højre hjørne og strikker opad? :)

01.12.2022 - 14:11

country flag Catherine wrote:

Bonjour, taille 7/8ans, dans ce modèle, il est dit de placer un marqueur à 6 cm pour la bordure roulottée , de mesurer ensuite à partir du marqueur et tricoter A1 donc 6 rangs, ensuite il est dit à 12 de hauteur totale placer 12 marqueurs. Ma question est sur \"hauteur totale\" cela veut dire 12 cm depuis le début de la bordure roulotée (donc 6cm + 6cm) ou 12 cm depuis le marqueur placé après la bordure roulottée (soit 6 cm + 12 cm) ? Merci pour votre réponse. Cordialement.

23.11.2022 - 10:47

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Catherine, après la bordure roulotée, on va placer un marqueur et ensuite mesurer à partir de ce marqueur; vous mesurez ensuite les 12 cm à partir de ce marqueur, soit 12 + 6 cm de bordure roulottée = 18 cm au total. Bon tricot!

23.11.2022 - 15:43

country flag Judy Craven wrote:

To get the puffiness in the forest green top, it is important to decrease 9 stitches EVERY row NOT every OTHER row. Decreasing every other row will give a smooth rounded top without the puffiness.

09.08.2022 - 13:21

country flag Joanne Gorda wrote:

Is it possible to adapt this pattern for an adult size? This is for a special needs child whose head size is that of an adult but is developmentally much younger. I know hecwould live this hat!

13.06.2022 - 22:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Gorda, yes probably, you can use another basic pattern for ex. matching your tension for the required size and then just make sure your number of stitches will be divisible with 6 (for A.1) and 9 (for A.2). Happy knitting!

14.06.2022 - 09:15