DROPS / 214 / 3

Sienna Wrap by DROPS Design

Knitted shawl with lace pattern and English rib in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down.

DROPS Design: Pattern no z-911
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
Height: Down middle = approx. 42 cm.
Width: Along top = approx. 168 cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200 g colour 9026, blush

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stocking stitch or 45 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
19 stitches in width and 44 rows in height with English rib = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 80 cm.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 57 stitches) minus edge stitches (e.g. 4 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 30) = 1.7.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 1st and 2nd stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

ENGLISH RIB:
1st ROW (right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker here, * knit 1, 1 yarn over, slip the next stitch onto the right needle as if to purl *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain on row, knit 1, insert a marker here, knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit 1 (= 2 stitches increased).

2nd ROW (wrong side): Knit 3 (marker here), * 1 yarn over, slip the next stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, knit the next stitch and yarn over together *, work from *-* until 4 stitches remain on row, 1 yarn over, slip the next stitch onto the right needle as if to purl (marker here), knit 3.

3rd ROW (right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker here), * knit the next stitch and yarn over together, 1 yarn over, slip the next stitch onto the right needle as if to purl *, work from *-* until 4 stitches remain on row, knit the next stitch and yarn over together (marker here), knit 2, 1 yarn over and knit 1 (= 2 stitches increased).

4th ROW (= wrong side): Knit 4 (marker here), * 1 yarn over, slip the next stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, knit the next stitch and yarn over together *, work from *-* until 5 stitches remain on row, 1 yarn over, slip the next stitch onto the right needle as if to purl (marker here), knit 4.

After the 1st – 4th ROW you have increased 4 stitches in total (2 stitches on each side). Now these stitches are worked into the English rib as follows.

5th ROW (= right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1. There are 2 stitches left before the marker, move the marker here and work the 2 stitches in English rib as follows: Knit 1, 1 yarn over and slip the next stitch onto the right needle as if to purl. Work as follows over the next stitches: * knit the next stitch and yarn over together, 1 yarn over, slip the next stitch onto the right needle as if to purl *, work from *-* until 4 stitches remain on row (at the marker). Remove the marker and work the first 2 stitches in English rib as follows: 1 yarn over and slip the next stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, knit 1. Now the 2 increased stitches have been worked into the pattern. Insert the marker here. Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit 1 (= 2 stitches increased).

Repeat 2nd – 5th ROW onwards (= 4 stitches increased in each repeat).


PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. The diagrams show all rows from the right side.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SHAWL – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle.

SHAWL:
Cast on 13 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and Alpaca. Knit 1 row from the wrong side.

1st SECTION:
1st ROW (= right side): 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit to end of row (= 2 stitches increased). The yarn overs are knitted on the next row; make sure the outermost yarn over is loose so the edge of the shawl is not tight.
2nd ROW (= wrong side): 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit to end of row (= 2 stitches increased).
Work like 1st and 2nd ROW until you have worked 11 ridges (the piece measures approx. 5 cm down the middle), there are 57 stitches on the needle. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
3rd ROW (= right side): Knit 1 row and increase 2 stitches as before, but also increase 30 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP in explanations above.
There are 89 stitches on the needle.
4th ROW (= wrong side): Knit 1 row and increase 2 stitches as before. There are 91 stitches on the needle.
Continue with garter stitch and increase as described in 1st and 2nd ROW until you have worked 11 more ridges. There are 135 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 10-11 cm down the middle. The next row is from the right side.

2nd SECTION:
Work 4 rows of stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. Increase 2 stitches on each row as before; the yarn over inside the edge stitch is purled from the wrong side and knitted from the right side to leave a hole. There are 143 stitches.
Knit 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side – increase in the side as before but also increase 32 stitches evenly spaced = 177 stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and increase in the side as before – REMEMBER that the yarn overs made when increasing evenly spaced are worked twisted on the next row.
There are 179 stitches and the piece measures approx. 12-13 cm down the middle.
Now work 16 rows of ENGLISH RIB – see description above, (i.e. 8 knitted stitches are visible on the right side). The English rib section measures approx. 4 cm and the piece measures approx. 16 cm down the middle. 16 stitches have been increased = 195 stitches. The next row is from the right side.

3rd SECTION:
Work 4 rows of stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side (on the first row, knit together the knitted stitches with their respective yarn overs) and increase 2 stitches on each row as before; the yarn overs inside the edge stitches are purled from the wrong side and knitted from the right side to leave holes. There are 203 stitches.
Knit 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side – increase in the side as before but also increase 30 stitches evenly spaced = 235 stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and increase in the side as before.
There are 237 stitches and the piece measures 18 cm down the middle.
Now work lace pattern according to diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3, with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and starting from the right side as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 over 2 stitches, A.2 over the next 224 stitches (28 times in width), A.3 over 9 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the diagrams have been completed in height you have increased 32 stitches and have 269 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 23 cm down the middle.

4th SECTION:
NOTE! The increase in the side will change from here.
Work 4 rows of stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over after the edge stitch at the beginning of each row (= 1 stitch increased per row); the yarn over is purled from the wrong side and knitted from the right side to leave a hole. There are 273 stitches.
Knit 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and increase 1 stitch after the first edge stitch but also increase 32 stitches evenly spaced = 306 stitches.
Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and increase 1 stitch after the first edge stitch.
There are 307 stitches and the piece measures approx. 25 cm down the middle.
Now work 16 rows of English rib (i.e. 8 knitted stitches are visible on the right side). The English rib section measures approx. 4 cm, 16 stitches are increased and the piece measures approx. 29 cm down the middle.

5th SECTION:
Work 4 rows of stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side (on the first row, knit together the knitted stitches with their respective yarn overs) and increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over after the 1 edge stitch at the beginning of each row (= 1 stitch increased per row); the yarn over is purled from the wrong side and knitted from the right side to leave a hole. There are 327 stitches.
Knit 1 row with edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and increase 1 stitch after the first edge stitch but also increase 36 stitches evenly spaced = 364 stitches.
Purl 1 row with edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and increase 1 stitch after the first edge stitch.
There are 365 stitches and the piece measures approx. 31 cm down the middle.
Now work lace pattern according to diagrams A.4, A.5 and A.6, with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and from the right side as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.4 over 2 stitches, A.5 over the next 352 stitches (44 times in width), A.6 over 9 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the diagrams have been completed in height you have increased 16 stitches, there are 381 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 36 cm down the middle. The next row is from the right side.

6th SECTION:
Work 4 rows of stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over after the edge stitch at the beginning of each row (= 1 stitch increased per row); the yarn over is purled from the wrong side and knitted from the right side to leave a hole. There are 385 stitches.
Knit 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and increase 1 stitch after the first edge stitch but also increase 32 stitches evenly spaced = 418 stitches.
Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and increase 1 stitch after the first edge stitch.
There are 419 stitches and the piece measures approx. 38 cm down the middle.
Now work 16 rows of English rib (i.e. 8 knitted stitches are visible on the right side). The English rib section measures approx. 4 cm, 16 stitches are increased, there are 435 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 42 cm down the middle. The next row is from the right side.

CASTING OFF:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight, cast off the stitches and yarn overs separately with knit. If the edge is still tight, cast off with a larger needle size.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 21.09.2020
Correction: Explanation for ENGLISH RIB updated.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; the yarn over is knitted/purled on the next row as shown in the diagrams (leaves a hole)
= knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased)
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased)
= in the stitch below the next stitch work as follows: knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= 2 stitches increased)
= 3 stitches in stocking stitch (= purl from wrong side)
= slip 2 stitches as if to knit together, knit 1 and pass the 2 slipped stitches over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased)
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased)


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 214-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

Lisa 22.09.2020 - 20:33:

Vielen lieben Dank für Ihre schnelle Antwort. Toller Service! Dann versuche ich nochmal.

Lisa 22.09.2020 - 08:44:

In der Beschreibung im 3. Bereich schreiben Sie (in der ersten Reihe die Umschläge des Vollpatents mit der zugehörigen Masche rechts zusammenstricken), ja wenn man die 1. Reihe im Vollpatent so strickt wie angegeben, aber dann sind es nicht 195 Maschen. Und wie sieht es aus, wenn man erstmal 70 Maschen zugenommen hat und dann nach 16 Reihen wieder reduziert? Es ist kein schönes Bild! Oder lese ich da was falsch?

DROPS Design 22.09.2020 kl. 11:54:

Liebe Lisa, haben Sie gesehen, die Beschreibung vom Vollpatent wurde korrigiert - die Umschläge von dem Vollpatent sind nicht in der Maschenanzahl gezählt,denn sie gehören je zu der abgehobene Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Lisa 22.09.2020 - 08:40:

Hallo, ich brauche Ihre Hilfe beim Vollpatent. Bereits in der ersten Reihe sind bei mir am Ende 268 Maschen, also nicht nur 2 Zunahmen. Dann habe ich bei mir korrigiert und in der ersten Reihe die ersten 2 Maschen ab Sternchen immer zusammengestrickt. Das sah schon besser aus. Aber in der 5 Reihe werden dann insgesamt 4 Maschen zugenommen! Also insgesamt 6 Maschen mehr!

Laura Genn 17.09.2020 - 16:23:

Ok thankyou! I look forward to seeing the edited pattern. I'm excited to proceed with the shawl. For now I will p2tog once on the last stockinette row to adjust the stitch count before proceeding with the first English rib section.

Laura Genn 16.09.2020 - 19:25:

I am having a problem with the first section of English Rib. The stitch count at the start of Row 1 is 179sts. Taking away the 4 edge stitches (2 on each side) leaves 175sts. After working the ribbing repeat of 2 stitches this leaves one stitch at the end not accounted for. Could you explain what to do with this stitch or am I mis-reading instructions? Many thanks!

DROPS Design 17.09.2020 kl. 13:35:

Dear Mrs Genn, thanks for your feedback, pattern will be edited and English rib description adapted to the amount of sts. Happy knitting!

Olivia 16.09.2020 - 13:57:

Thanks for previous reply, the 2nd rows of diagram A1 & A3 do not show increases.

Olivia 16.09.2020 kl. 13:58:

Ignore me, I was looking at the wrong diagram

Olivia 15.09.2020 - 20:02:

Hi, in 3rd Section, how are we to increase the stitches? Do the diagrams include this increase on either side? The increases before have been 2 at the start of each row, but this says to increase at the start and end, which would be 4 per row. The lace is worked over 16 rows x 2 =32 increase as stated so the instructions and the diagrams don't tally up with the number of stitches given as a starting point of 237 and how many to increase by. Please can you help?

DROPS Design 16.09.2020 kl. 08:32:

Dear Olivia, in 3rd section, you work and increase as shown the diagrams over the 237 sts - this means 1 edge st, A.1 (= you increase in A.1 as before, ie inside the first st), repeat A.2 and finish with A.3 (= increase as before, ie inside the last st), 1 edge st in garter st. You increase on every row, as shown in diagram and new stitches are worked in garter st (as all sts in A.1 and A.3). Diagrams are 16 rows = 32 increases in total + 237 sts = 269 sts when diagrams are finished. Happy knitting!

Netty Van Beek 07.09.2020 - 09:40:

Staat fout voor steekverhouding dikkere teveel steken of dunnere naald bij te weinig steken moet omgedraaid

Gabriela 14.08.2020 - 16:35:

Núnca tejí con aguja circular, hay muchos modelos que se deben tejer con ése tipo de aguja. No me doy cuenta por ejemplo en un saco que no se me una el tejido y quede como un tubo. Les agradecería me enseñaran. Saludos

DROPS Design 16.08.2020 kl. 14:08:

Hola Gabriela. La aguja circular la utilizamos para trabajar en redondo (sin costuras) o trabajar de ida y vuelta con un número elevado de puntos ( y con agujas rectas es difícil trabajar). En el caso de las chaquetas y etc. se trabaja de ida y vuelta (sin unión), como si trabajaras con agujas rectas.

Sophy 05.08.2020 - 18:31:

I love this!

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