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  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Tops
  4. DROPS
  5. 211
  6. 17

Beach Rite by DROPS Design

Crocheted top in DROPS Muskat. Size S-XL.

Keywords: bikini, halter neck, top

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DROPS 211-17
DROPS design: Pattern no R-754
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S – M – L – XL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 66-74-80-88 cm = 25 1/4”-29 1/8”-31 1/2”-34 5/8”
Full length: 14-16-18-20 cm = 5 1/2”-6 1/4”-7”-8”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-150-150-150 g color 76, light denim
50-50-50-50 g color 08, off white
50-50-50-50 g color 19, light grey

CROCHET GAUGE:
22 double crochets in width and 11 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 mm = US C
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton 		from 2.20 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.40$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase stitches along row with double crochets by working 2 stitches in same stitch.

2 DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER:
Work 2 double crochets together in same stitch as follows: Work 1 double crochet but wait with last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on hook). Work 1 double crochet more in same stitch the same way (= 3 loops on hook). Make a yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Top is worked from the bottom, work upwards and outwards to each side as a triangle. Then divide the piece at the middle, and work up and outwards in each side separately. Work an edge along the top side of piece and work ties at the end.

TOP:
Use hook size 3 mm = US C and light denim. Work according to diagram A.1. When diagram has been worked, continue and increase the same way until piece measures approx. 14-16-18-20 cm = 5 1/2”-6 1/4”-7”-8” measures from chain stitch ring in the middle of A.1 and upwards.
Now work back and forth over one side of piece, begin from right side in chain space in the middle of piece (at the middle of diagram A.1).
Work double crochets and increase in the outer side as shown in diagram A.2. Continue to work and increase like this until piece measures 11-11-12-13 cm = 4 3/8”-4 3/8”-4 3/4”-5 1/8” measures in crochet direction from where piece was divided, piece measures approx. 20-21-24-27 cm = 8”-8 1/4”-9 1/2”-10 5/8” in total in crochet direction from chain stitch ring at the beginning of A.1 and up to last row. Repeat the same way along the other side of A.1 but begin from wrong side.

EDGE:
Now work an edge along the 4 top sides of piece. On first row worked it is important to adjust number of stitches (adjust up rather than down) so that number of stitches is divisible by 3 stitches on each of the first 3 sides, along the last side number of stitches should be divisible by 3 + 1 stitch to make the pattern the same in both sides - read INCREASE TIP in explanation above.

ROW 1:
Use light grey, fasten strand with 1 slip stitch at the edge in the side of A.2 (point E on chart). Work single crochets along all the 4 sides and make sure that number of stitches is divisible as explained above along each side. Cut and fasten the yarn. Do not turn piece, work next row from same side.

ROW 2:
Use light denim, fasten strand with 1 slip stitch in first stitch, work 3 chain stitches and 1 double crochet in first stitch, * work 2 chain stitches and skip 2 single crochet, in next stitch work 2 DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER - read explanation above *, work from *-* over the first 2 sides (last stitch worked along 2nd side is 2 double crochets worked together). Work 1 chain stitch (point B on chart) and skip 4 single crochets. In next stitch work 2 double crochets together, work from *-* along the last 2 sides (last stitch worked along the 4th side is 2 double crochets worked together). Cut and fasten the yarn. Do not turn piece, work next row from same side.

ROW 3:
Use off white, fasten strand with 1 slip stitch in first stitch, work 1 single crochet in every double crochet worked together and work 2 single crochets around every chain space until chain space at point A. Work 3 single crochets in this chain space. Work as before until chain stitch at point B. Work 1 single crochet in this chain stitch. Work as before until point C Work 3 single crochets in this chain space. Work as before the rest of row. Cut and fasten the yarn.

TIE:
Make 4 ties with light denim.
The placement of the ties is marked on chart.
Tie at point D and E are the ties that are tied at the back. Tie at point A and C are the ties that are tied around the neck.

Make ties at point A and C as follows: Cut 9 strands with a length of approx. 140-150-160-170 cm = 55”-59”-63”-67”. Pull strands through chain space at point A and place them single = 18 strands. Distribute strands in 3 piles with 6 strands in each. Make a braid but leave approx. 16-18 cm = 6 1/4”-7” at the end. Tie a string around the strands to keep the braid together. Distribute the strands into 3 equal piles again, thread a bead on each of the piles if desired and make a knot on the under the bead to fasten it. Make 3 braids and tie yarn around each of the braids. Repeat the same way at point C.

Make ties at point D and E as follows: Cut 3 strands with a length of approx. 120-130-140-150 cm = 48”-51 1/4”-55”-59”. Pull strand through piece at point D and place them single = 6 strands. Distribute strands in 3 piles with 2 strands in each. Make a braid but leave approx. 16 cm = 6 1/4” of strand at the end. Tie a string around the strands to keep the braid together. Thread a bead if desired and make a new knot on the under side of bead so that it is fastened. Repeat the same way at point E.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = Begin here – work 5 chain stitches and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch - see point on circle.
symbols = crochet direction on first row in diagrams
symbols = 4 chain stitches
symbols = treble crochet around chain stitch ring / treble crochet around chain space
symbols = 1 chain stitch - if you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight 1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 single crochet/double crochet/treble crochet is wide.
symbols = 3 chain stitches - if you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight 1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 single crochet/double crochet/treble crochet is wide.
symbols = double crochet around chain stitch ring/double crochet around chain space
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = 4 chain stitches - if you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight 1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 single crochet/double crochet/treble crochet is wide.
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 211-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Eva wrote:

Nun wird hin und zurück über die eine Seite der Arbeit gehäkelt, mit einer Hin-Reihe in dem Luftmaschenbogen in der Mitte der Arbeit beginnen (in der Mitte von Diagramm A.1). Verstehe ich das richtig, dass ich nun in der oberen Ecke mit meiner Wolle neu ansetzen muss?

18.07.2022 - 19:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Eva, ja genau, und nun häkeln Sie A.2 auf eine Seite, dann häkeln Sie A.2 auf der anderen Seite. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

01.08.2022 kl. 10:42

country flag Inge Madsen wrote:

Jeg har problemer med at komme igang med opskriften, efter de 5 luftmasker og 1 kantmaske hvad så. Vi er 4 mennesker der har kigget på opskriften og har givet op, hvorfor skriver I ikke bare hvor mange stangmasker og luftmasker der skal bruges i række. Vær venlig at hjælpe mig, jeg vil nødig skuffe mit 15 årlige barnebarn. Hilsen Inge Madsen

20.06.2022 - 12:56

country flag Mona Holmgren wrote:

Svårt att för att tå hur jag börjar

02.06.2022 - 15:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mona, du börjar med själva diagrammet, vid ringen =Börja här - virka 5 luftmaskor .... när du har satt ihop till en ring, virkar du från där pilen är, 4+3 luftmaskor, stolpe, stolpe, stolpe, 4 luftmaskor, stolpe, stolpe, stolpe osv :)

03.06.2022 kl. 12:48

country flag Claudia wrote:

Buongiorno, per cortesia è possibile avere lo stesso modello lavorato ai ferri? Grazie

16.05.2022 - 14:46

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Claudia, questo modello è stato progettato per essere lavorato all'uncinetto, non può essere trasformato in un modello ai ferri. Provi a navigare tra i modelli del nostro sito per trovarne tanti altri lavorati ai ferri. Buon lavoro!

17.05.2022 kl. 19:00

country flag Claudia wrote:

Buongiorno, è possibile avere lo stesso modello lavorato ai ferri? Grazie

16.05.2022 - 14:45

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Claudia, questo modello è stato progettato per essere lavorato all'uncinetto, non può essere trasformato in un modello ai ferri. Provi a navigare tra i modelli del nostro sito per trovarne tanti altri lavorati ai ferri. Buon lavoro!

17.05.2022 kl. 19:00

country flag Sissel Nesse wrote:

Hei! Jeg er ferdig med A1 og skal begynne på A2. De tre første maskene skal være tre luftmasker, men hvordan starter jeg med med disse luftmaskene?

06.05.2022 - 12:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sissel, du hæfter tråden med en kædemaske hvis du starter midt i arbejdet. God fornøjelse!

06.05.2022 kl. 14:22

country flag Sara wrote:

Dalla figura del modello sembra che la Riga 2 del bordo sia lavorata con il colore denim e non con il grigio chiaro come scritto nelle istruzioni. Potete confermare denim o grigio chiaro? Grazie.

06.05.2022 - 07:41

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Sara, grazie per la segnalazione, abbiamo corretto il testo. Buon lavoro!

06.05.2022 kl. 21:26

country flag Maike Klein wrote:

Hallo, Ich habe Probleme bei A1 am Anfang und am Ende mit den Luftmaschen. Es wird schon auf englisch erklärt, aber es hilft mir leider nicht. Ich würde mich über eine Erklärung freuen. Dankeschön

09.01.2022 - 17:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Klein, haben Sie die deutsche Anleitung gelesen? Oder wie kann ich Ihnen helfen? bei A.1 fangen Sie mit 3. Symbol = 4 Luftmaschen und enden Sie mit 1 Doppelstäbchen um den Luftmaschenring/in den Luftmaschenbogen (abwechslungsweise rechts und links im Diagram, je nach Hin- und Rückreihen). Kann das Ihnen helfen?

10.01.2022 kl. 09:02

country flag Tiny Moonbeams wrote:

IN A1, when you're are almost finished with a row, you chain 3 (symbol: ( ) and connect with the 4 chains (dark kernel symbol) from the base row. How do you connect the chain 3 with these 4 chains - which stitch do you hook into? Or do you just swing around the chain 4?

13.06.2021 - 22:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Tiny Moonbeams, what you desribe is at the end of a row. (the row starts with a "kernel (= 4 ch)" - see arrow at the bottom of the diagram! - and ends with a double treble crochet, and then the next row starts with 4 ch st ("kernel) (to make thw row higher), and 3 ch stitches for the first chainstitch loop. Happy Stitching!

14.06.2021 kl. 02:21

country flag Odile Cazade wrote:

Je ne sais pas commencer le diagramme A1

24.05.2021 - 19:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Cazade, commencez le diagramme A.1 par le rond de mailles en l'air (= 1er symbole de la légende), puis crochetez le premier rang à partir de la flèche: de droite à gauche dans le diagramme et les rangs impairs de gauche à droite. Bon crochet!

25.05.2021 kl. 09:01

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