DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 2.80 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
DROPS 211-17
DROPS design: Pattern no R-754
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S – M – L – XL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 66-74-80-88 cm = 25¼"-29⅛"-31½"-34⅝"
Full length: 14-16-18-20 cm = 5½"-6¼"-7"-8"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-150-150-150 g color 76, light denim
50-50-50-50 g color 08, off white
50-50-50-50 g color 19, light grey

CROCHET GAUGE:
22 double crochets in width and 11 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 mm = US C
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 2.80 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase stitches along row with double crochets by working 2 stitches in same stitch.

2 DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER:
Work 2 double crochets together in same stitch as follows: Work 1 double crochet but wait with last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on hook). Work 1 double crochet more in same stitch the same way (= 3 loops on hook). Make a yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Top is worked from the bottom, work upwards and outwards to each side as a triangle. Then divide the piece at the middle, and work up and outwards in each side separately. Work an edge along the top side of piece and work ties at the end.

TOP:
Use hook size 3 mm = US C and light denim. Work according to diagram A.1. When diagram has been worked, continue and increase the same way until piece measures approx. 14-16-18-20 cm = 5½"-6¼"-7"-8" measures from chain stitch ring in the middle of A.1 and upwards.
Now work back and forth over one side of piece, begin from right side in chain space in the middle of piece (at the middle of diagram A.1).
Work double crochets and increase in the outer side as shown in diagram A.2. Continue to work and increase like this until piece measures 11-11-12-13 cm = 4⅜"-4⅜"-4¾"-5⅛" measures in crochet direction from where piece was divided, piece measures approx. 20-21-24-27 cm = 8"-8¼"-9½"-10⅝" in total in crochet direction from chain stitch ring at the beginning of A.1 and up to last row. Repeat the same way along the other side of A.1 but begin from wrong side.

EDGE:
Now work an edge along the 4 top sides of piece. On first row worked it is important to adjust number of stitches (adjust up rather than down) so that number of stitches is divisible by 3 stitches on each of the first 3 sides, along the last side number of stitches should be divisible by 3 + 1 stitch to make the pattern the same in both sides - read INCREASE TIP in explanation above.

ROW 1:
Use light grey, fasten strand with 1 slip stitch at the edge in the side of A.2 (point E on chart). Work single crochets along all the 4 sides and make sure that number of stitches is divisible as explained above along each side. Cut and fasten the yarn. Do not turn piece, work next row from same side.

ROW 2:
Use light denim, fasten strand with 1 slip stitch in first stitch, work 3 chain stitches and 1 double crochet in first stitch, * work 2 chain stitches and skip 2 single crochet, in next stitch work 2 DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER - read explanation above *, work from *-* over the first 2 sides (last stitch worked along 2nd side is 2 double crochets worked together). Work 1 chain stitch (point B on chart) and skip 4 single crochets. In next stitch work 2 double crochets together, work from *-* along the last 2 sides (last stitch worked along the 4th side is 2 double crochets worked together). Cut and fasten the yarn. Do not turn piece, work next row from same side.

ROW 3:
Use off white, fasten strand with 1 slip stitch in first stitch, work 1 single crochet in every double crochet worked together and work 2 single crochets around every chain space until chain space at point A. Work 3 single crochets in this chain space. Work as before until chain stitch at point B. Work 1 single crochet in this chain stitch. Work as before until point C Work 3 single crochets in this chain space. Work as before the rest of row. Cut and fasten the yarn.

TIE:
Make 4 ties with light denim.
The placement of the ties is marked on chart.
Tie at point D and E are the ties that are tied at the back. Tie at point A and C are the ties that are tied around the neck.

Make ties at point A and C as follows: Cut 9 strands with a length of approx. 140-150-160-170 cm = 55"-59"-63"-67". Pull strands through chain space at point A and place them single = 18 strands. Distribute strands in 3 piles with 6 strands in each. Make a braid but leave approx. 16-18 cm = 6¼"-7" at the end. Tie a string around the strands to keep the braid together. Distribute the strands into 3 equal piles again, thread a bead on each of the piles if desired and make a knot on the under the bead to fasten it. Make 3 braids and tie yarn around each of the braids. Repeat the same way at point C.

Make ties at point D and E as follows: Cut 3 strands with a length of approx. 120-130-140-150 cm = 48"-51¼"-55"-59". Pull strand through piece at point D and place them single = 6 strands. Distribute strands in 3 piles with 2 strands in each. Make a braid but leave approx. 16 cm = 6¼" of strand at the end. Tie a string around the strands to keep the braid together. Thread a bead if desired and make a new knot on the under side of bead so that it is fastened. Repeat the same way at point E.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = Begin here – work 5 chain stitches and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch - see point on circle.
symbols = crochet direction on first row in diagrams
symbols = 4 chain stitches
symbols = treble crochet around chain stitch ring / treble crochet around chain space
symbols = 1 chain stitch - if you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight 1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 single crochet/double crochet/treble crochet is wide.
symbols = 3 chain stitches - if you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight 1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 single crochet/double crochet/treble crochet is wide.
symbols = double crochet around chain stitch ring/double crochet around chain space
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = 4 chain stitches - if you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight 1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 single crochet/double crochet/treble crochet is wide.
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Charlotte wrote:

Hej, jeg har lidt problemer med, hvordan jeg skal starte A.2. Har færdiggjort A.1 og er derfor i bunden ved E, og forstår ikke helt, hvordan jeg skal komme op til toppen af A.1, så jeg kan starte A.2?

01.04.2024 - 23:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Charlotte, du klipper tråden og starter med 3 luftmasker i øverste stangmaske :)

09.04.2024 - 09:29

country flag Vicky1970 wrote:

Hi. I have never worked with a crochet pattern diagram and can't work it out when referring to the info you have on the website about reading a pattern. Do I start with the chain stitch ring and then do as follows? Chain 4, chain 3 (do I slip stitch into the ring between these?) 3 treble crochets, 4 chain stitches, 3 treble crochets, chain 3, 1 double treble crochet. And then work back? Also why are there two different symbols for '4 chain stitches'? Many thanks

09.07.2023 - 08:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Vicky, you start with 5 chain stitches. Work back and forth, turning after every row in A.1. Work as follows: Chain 4, chain 3, 3 treble crochets, 4 chain stitches, 3 treble crochets, chain 3, 1 double treble crochet. Now turn and work: chain 4, chain 3, 2 treble crochet in the chain 3 space, 3 treble crochet, in the middle chain-4 space work 2 treble crochet, chain 4, 2 treble crochet, 3 treble crochet, 2 treble crochet in the chain 3 space, chain 3, 1 double treble crochet. The 2 symbols are to differentiate their functions: the blackened symbol is for those that replace a double treble crochet and the cross is for those that are used as middle chain spaces. Happy crocheting!

10.07.2023 - 17:32

country flag Tanja Goense wrote:

Wat bedoel je met de opmerking: haak dan verder en meerder op dezelfde manier? Moet ik patroon A1 meerderen?

28.06.2023 - 08:17

country flag Carole wrote:

This is the second pattern which I’m trying fiercely to understand. I am an experienced crocheted and knitter but I just can’t understand your instructions. Is it not possible to write out the pattern rather than all the symbols. Both of the patterns which I chose are so pretty for a grand daughter but I’m at a standstill! Many tks again, Carole

30.03.2023 - 21:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carole, the only version of this pattern available is the one you see online. If you have trouble understanding the crochet charts, you can check out the following lesson: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=69&cid=19. If there is a specific part which trouble you, you can indicate it to us and we will try to explain it to you differently. Happy crochetting!

02.04.2023 - 17:00

country flag Stachnick Stéphanie wrote:

Bonjour je ne comprends pas comment enchainer entre A1 et A2 . Dans quel rond de mailles s'insère la deuxième bride de A2 Par ailleurs dans A2 avons nous une augmentation de 2 mailles par rang ? ou De 3 ou de 4 .. en fait je ne comprends pas le début du premier rang de A2 je vosu remercie Corduialement

29.03.2023 - 16:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Stachnick, le diagramme A.2 ne se crochète que le long d'un côté de A.1, autrement dit, on continue comme avant en bas le long du côté (les rangs commencent et se terminent comme avant de ce côté), mais en haut de A.1, on continue tout droit, en brides, A.2 commence ainsi dans l'arceau de 4 ml de A.1: 3 ml (1ère bride) + 1 bride dans l'arceau de 4 ml de A.1, puis 1 bride dans chaque bride . Bon crochet!

11.04.2023 - 09:30

country flag Eva wrote:

Nun wird hin und zurück über die eine Seite der Arbeit gehäkelt, mit einer Hin-Reihe in dem Luftmaschenbogen in der Mitte der Arbeit beginnen (in der Mitte von Diagramm A.1). Verstehe ich das richtig, dass ich nun in der oberen Ecke mit meiner Wolle neu ansetzen muss?

18.07.2022 - 19:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Eva, ja genau, und nun häkeln Sie A.2 auf eine Seite, dann häkeln Sie A.2 auf der anderen Seite. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

01.08.2022 - 10:42

country flag Inge Madsen wrote:

Jeg har problemer med at komme igang med opskriften, efter de 5 luftmasker og 1 kantmaske hvad så. Vi er 4 mennesker der har kigget på opskriften og har givet op, hvorfor skriver I ikke bare hvor mange stangmasker og luftmasker der skal bruges i række. Vær venlig at hjælpe mig, jeg vil nødig skuffe mit 15 årlige barnebarn. Hilsen Inge Madsen

20.06.2022 - 12:56

country flag Mona Holmgren wrote:

Svårt att för att tå hur jag börjar

02.06.2022 - 15:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mona, du börjar med själva diagrammet, vid ringen =Börja här - virka 5 luftmaskor .... när du har satt ihop till en ring, virkar du från där pilen är, 4+3 luftmaskor, stolpe, stolpe, stolpe, 4 luftmaskor, stolpe, stolpe, stolpe osv :)

03.06.2022 - 12:48

country flag Claudia wrote:

Buongiorno, per cortesia è possibile avere lo stesso modello lavorato ai ferri? Grazie

16.05.2022 - 14:46

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Claudia, questo modello è stato progettato per essere lavorato all'uncinetto, non può essere trasformato in un modello ai ferri. Provi a navigare tra i modelli del nostro sito per trovarne tanti altri lavorati ai ferri. Buon lavoro!

17.05.2022 - 19:00

country flag Claudia wrote:

Buongiorno, è possibile avere lo stesso modello lavorato ai ferri? Grazie

16.05.2022 - 14:45

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Claudia, questo modello è stato progettato per essere lavorato all'uncinetto, non può essere trasformato in un modello ai ferri. Provi a navigare tra i modelli del nostro sito per trovarne tanti altri lavorati ai ferri. Buon lavoro!

17.05.2022 - 19:00