DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.95$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

White Comfort Sweater

Knitted sweater with split in sides in DROPS Snow and DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. Sizes XS - XXL.

DROPS 213-30
DROPS Design: Pattern no ee-692
Yarn group E + C
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 94-100-106-118-128-140 cm = 37"-39⅜"-41¾"-46½"-50⅜"-55"
Full length: 68-71-74-77-80-83 cm = 26¾"-28"-29⅛"-30⅜"-31½"-32¾"

All measurements in chart are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
550-600-650-700-750-850 g color 01, off white
And use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-125-125-125-150-150 g color 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
7 stitches in width and 10 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS NEEDLES SIZE 15 MM = US 19: For stockinette stitch.
DROPS NEEDLES SIZE 12 MM = US 17: For moss stitch edges on bottom of back and front pieces.
DROPS NEEDLES SIZE 10 MM = US 15: For moss stitch edges on cuffs.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.95$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

MEASURING TIP:
All width-measurements are taken with the piece lying flat and without stretching.
All length-measurements are taken holding the piece up or the sweater will be too long when worn.
.

DECREASE TIP (for neck-line):
Decrease for the neck on the inside of the 4 edge stitches in moss stitch (A.1). All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease as follows before the 4 edge stitches:
Start 2 stitches before A.1, knit 2 together, work 4 edge stitches in A.1 as before (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows after the 4 edge stitches:
Work 4 edge stitches in A.1 as before, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Increase on the inside of the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, alternately at the beginning and end of the row as described in the text.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The back and front pieces and the sleeves are worked back and forth, bottom up. The piece is sewn together at the shoulders, the sleeves are sewn in and the underarm and side seams are sewn in one go, as far as the split on each side.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 33-35-37-41-45-49 stitches with needle size 12 mm = US 17 and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Work A.1 back and forth for 4 rows (row 1 = right side).
Change to needle size 15 mm = US 19 and continue with stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH on each side – read description above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝" – read MEASURING TIP, bind off 2-2-2-3-4-5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 29-31-33-35-37-39 stitches left.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 61-64-67-70-73-76 cm = 24"-25¼"-26⅜"-27½"-28¾"-30", work A.1 over the middle 17-17-17-19-19-19 stitches (the other stitches are worked in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side as before).
When the piece measures 65-68-71-74-77-80 cm = 25½"-26¾"-28"-29⅛"-30⅜"-31½", bind off the middle 9-9-9-11-11-11 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue as before with 4 edge stitches in A.1 towards the neck, stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side.
AT THE SAME TIME decrease 1 stitch for the neck on the next row from the neck – read DECREASE TIP = 9-10-11-11-12-13 stitches left on shoulder.
When there is 1 row left before the piece measures 68-71-74-77-80-83 cm = 26¾"-28"-29⅛"-30⅜"-31½"-32¾", knit the next row from the wrong side, then bind off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way. The back piece measures approx. 68-71-74-77-80-83 cm = 26¾"-28"-29⅛"-30⅜"-31½"-32¾" from the shoulder down.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work in the same way as the back piece until the piece measures 58-61-63-66-68-71 cm = 22¾"-24"-24¾"-26"-26¾"-28". Now work A.1 over the middle 15-15-15-17-17-17 stitches (the other stitches are worked in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side as before).
When the piece measures 62-65-67-70-72-75 cm = 24⅜"-25½"-26⅜"-27½"-28⅜"-29½", bind off the middle 7-7-7-9-9-9 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue with 4 edge stitches in A.1 towards the neck, stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side.
AT THE SAME TIME decrease 1 stitch for the neck every 2nd row a total of 2 times – remember DECREASE TIP = 9-10-11-11-12-13 stitches left on the shoulder.
When there is 1 row left before the piece measures 68-71-74-77-80-83 cm = 26¾"-28"-29⅛"-30⅜"-31½"-32¾", knit the next row from the wrong side, then bind off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way. The front piece measures approx. 68-71-74-77-80-83 cm = 26¾"-28"-29⅛"-30⅜"-31½"-32¾" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 17-17-18-19-19-20 stitches with needle size 10 mm = US 15 and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Work A.1 back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side for 3 cm = 1⅛".
Change to needle size 15 mm = US 19 and work stockinette stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 6-6-6-8-9-9 cm = 2⅜"-2⅜"-2⅜"-3⅛"-3½"-3½", increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the row – read INCREASE TIP. Repeat the increase, alternately at the end and beginning of the row, every 5½-4-4-3½-2½-2½ cm = 2⅛"-1½"-1½"-1¼"-1¼"-⅞"-⅞" a total of 4-5-5-5-6-6 times on each side = 25-27-28-29-31-32 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 46-46-45-44-41-40 cm = 18"-18"-17¾"-17¼"-16⅛"-15¾" (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to broader shoulders and longer sleeve cap). Insert 1 marker on each side of the sleeve – they mark the bottom of the armhole. Continue working with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the sleeve measures 49-49-48-48-47-47 cm = 19¼"-19¼"-19"-19"-18½"-18½". Loosely bind off with knit from the right side. Work the other sleeve in the same way. On the picture the sleeves are slightly turned up.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the bind-off edge. Sew in the sleeves and sew the bottom of the armhole – the markers on the sleeve should match with the sides of the body.
Sew the underarm and side seams in one go – sew in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat; stop when there is 25 to 30 cm = 9¾" to 11¾" left for the split on each side.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Anki Jansson wrote:

Hej, jag tänker sticka min första tröja men vart ser jag bröstkorgsmåttet, jag har 112 cm vilken storlek motsvarar detta ? Jag ser bara mått nedtill respektive upptill på tröjan, jag vill ej att den ska vara för liten. Jag uppskattar er sida, har ni någon nybörjarvänlig kortärmad tröja ?

23.04.2024 - 11:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anki, se her: Hur man läser en måttskiss

23.04.2024 - 15:32

country flag Leya wrote:

Hur hittar jag stickorna till detta mönster?

10.04.2024 - 23:04

country flag Glynne wrote:

This was the first jersey pattern I ever made. The instructions were easy to follow and the neckline was simple yet effective. Highly recommend. Thank you. Ngā mihi nui

01.04.2024 - 10:19

country flag Eva wrote:

Hi, it is such a beautiful tunic, l have knitted two of this last year . However, the amount of drops snow l ordered seems to be too much . The pattern states 850 g so l ordered 17 balls and ended up with 6 extra . That is the same with alpaca silk, l ordered 6 balls as the pattern asked for 150 g. What am l doing wrong? I follow all instructions, gauge same as pattern. Thank you for your advice.

25.01.2024 - 12:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Eva, thanks for your feedback, this has been forwarded to our designer team. Happy knitting!

26.01.2024 - 08:25

country flag Melody Parkes wrote:

Thank you for your response. Please note that the diagram that I can now see was not included on my pattern.

18.08.2023 - 16:50

country flag Melody Parkes wrote:

Your pattern DROPS 213-30refers to the diagram showing A1 can you please clarify, is this garter stitch or is it Moss stitch as it doesn't show on the diagram or in the abbreviations. A super quick response would be much appreciated

18.08.2023 - 10:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Parkes, diagram A.1 is worked in moss stitch - please find more explanations about diagrams in this lesson. Happy knitting!

18.08.2023 - 16:07

country flag Marie wrote:

La grosseur des aiguilles recommandées me paraissent énormes ! Faut-il vraiment du 12 et 15 ,,? Et où les trouver ,? Sur le site où j’achète les laines (Kalidou) il n’y a pas ces grosseurs ; merci de votre aide

23.01.2022 - 19:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, On tricote ici effectivement avec 1 fil Snow (groupe E) + 1 fil Brushed Alpaca Silk (groupe C), pour obtenir l'échantillon, nous avons utilisé des aiguilles 15; vous pourrez en trouver en version circulaire bouleau ou bien DROPS Classic, interchangeables. Bon tricot!

24.01.2022 - 10:00

country flag Audrey wrote:

Ah mais oui ! J'ai mal calculé après le nombre de mailles à rabattre. Merci de votre réponse.

09.11.2021 - 13:45

country flag Audrey wrote:

Bonjour, si je suis bien vos indications pour l'encolure devant, il faut commencer les 4 mailles de bordures A1 et la première diminution dès le rang où l'on rabat les mailles centrales (un rang endroit donc) sinon il y aurait un décalage dans le motif ?

09.11.2021 - 01:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Audrey, on diminue pour l'encolure à 4 mailles du bord - cf DIMINUTIONS (encolure) autrement dit, le point de riz se tricote sur les mêmes 4 mailles qu'auparavant. Bon tricot!

09.11.2021 - 13:05

country flag Erika wrote:

Hej, tänkte sticka denna tröja men undrar vad för typ av stickor som behövs, ser storlekarna 10,12 och 15mm på dom i mönstret men undrar om det är rundstickor hur långa och eller vanliga stickor och i så fall hur långa?

21.08.2021 - 13:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Erika. Du ska sticka delarna fram och tillbaka så du kan antingen använda vanliga parstickor eller en lång rundsticka (tex 80 cm) och sticka fram och tillbaka på den. Mvh DROPS Design

24.08.2021 - 09:54